digifish

Yes ... on top of the already mid-range deficient hardware. You can't polish a turd Look its not the worst sound in the world, but if I could save money by not having it, I would have.

The overall quality is bad to my ears. I have never heard the stock system so I am taking Canton at face value here. In Australia it comes bundled with a package of other features. So I was actually after the electric adjustable and leather seats and other stuff. The sound is mid-range deficient. Flabby one-note-bass. Bizzare front vs rear speaker response and sounds like a smiley-curve EQ has been applied to it.

This was indeed my point. Its bad faith IMO. In case this is not clear to others. When you run air conditioning (cooling) it dumps heat outside and cold inside. If you run the same system with the gas flowing in the opposite direction it would dump heat inside and cold outside. There is no reason for this to cost a few dollars extra (for some additional parts). Probably less than $25

I am a little confused as to how this becomes an add-on expense to the tune of 1K. If they have added an air conditioner (Cooling) to the car, then they have 99.5% of the hardware required to heat with the same compressor. All they need to do is add a valve so the system can run in reverse and some slightly different expansion port designs. In other words, there is no additional cost to turn a cooling only system into a heating system also. It's the same circuit running in reverse.

That has to be a manufacturing defect. 'Fit for purpose' laws may get you somewhere with the OEM.

Hmmm... avoid that stuff, it seems to have stained your interior purple

Yeah not a fan of the dipstick and poorly embossed cross-hatching. A is where the dipstick is bent. We are definitely over that

Sigh ... 2nd year service result. Strangely enough the only two oil over-fils I have ever in my life are from VAG dealers doing in-warranty scheduled maintenance. The problem is the dealers use apprentices to do all the oil changes I think. pfft. I have probably done at least 50s oil changes in my life and never made this sort of mistake. It's not difficult to creep up on the correct level with the minimal amount of experience. AND when you work on the same engines day-in day-out you should be able to do this with nothing more than a good measuring jug. You know exactly how much to add.

Yes. Rear. Its on my to-do including some more research. But isolating the tyres mechanically from the car is a big factor in NVH.

This. Every time the topic comes up. There is no more important factor than 1. The road surfaces you drive on. 2. How fast you drive. The Superb III definitely suffers from excessive tyre noise. I suspect some of this can be tracked down to the bushings they are using on the strut towers. I plan to do the Audi > Skoda swap when I get around to it. Thicker rubber bushings better NVH. You can make an impact with mods, tyres etc. But there is no escaping the mechanically transmitted tyre > chassis path.

This. Perfect explanation. Having had 18 and 19" on the same superb. DCC is about the lower frequency jolts and bumps (bigger stuff). The higher frequency stuff isn't affected by the DCC. 19" definitely transmit more rumble, a little more road noise and little imperfections compared to 18". If you go into a pothole, the DCC will smooth out the big bump but with 19" you will feel the edges of it more than with 18". 17" would be even better. It also depends *entirely* on the type of roads you are driving on. Everyone seems to ignore this fact. Cobble-stones on 18" will definitely feel more comfortable than 19".

First up thanks for your post, this is awesome. Re the power in the rear seats, I am satisfied with a much easier conversion, complete with USB C ... Baseus Metal Quick Charge USB (Tip: Baseus products are excellent, buy anything from them with confidence )

Please make a video of your car detailing everything you have changed. You have one of the most fascinating Mk IIIs on the forum

Indeed I was just making the point. The larger the Inner Diameter of tyres is, the more expensive they get. Manufacturers know they can charge more for less rubber, since the larger the rim size, the more modern and 'sport' oriented the car it's likely to be on...and so they jack up the prices. 17" in the same model tyre will be less than a 19"

It's cooling the turbo bearings down so oil doesn't sludge in them.

I would skip the 18 and go straight for 17 if you are looking for comfort. And cheaper rubber.

You know you can tint polycarbonate in a bath of hot plastic dye. That's how they tint sunglasses. Or simpler... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdQSumRX7B8

Could be the same as this post ... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/480999-weird-noise-with-higher-rpm/?do=findComment&comment=5409133

That would be my guess too. Sounds rubbery (silicone spray is the go there). If it's not that then it could be the CV joint itself.

How many km does your car have on it? Could be suspension bushings (rubber parts) creaking? Video would be helpful.

I can get mine to make a little noise doing that, a lot less than yours. Can you feel the caliper frame (3) moving? The part you can grab is on guide pins that can slide, to allow the outer caliper frame to slide in and out, you are probably feeling/hearing play in that? It's probably OK, but why not pull the wheel off and check all the bolts are good. The caliper bracket itself should be solid and not move at all (check the video above)

Brake calipers should not move at all. They are solidly bolted to the steering knuckle (7). The pads inside can move and may have some play but not enough to clack. Can you upload a photo of what you are moving?

Not normal. Something is loose. Eithert the caliper or some other suspension component.

It's the modern equivalent of...

I purchased a Skoda Brand safety triangle from them (to Australia from Europe) went well. But OTOH online shops are only as good as their last delivery That said, I like Superskoda.