daftbugga

Thank you for the additional info. Well done on re MOT ing the car the day after you bought it 😁. It just confirms my & others suspicions that the dealer is out to pull your pants down. Are Morecambe & Grimsby dealers 1 and the same ??. I can only suggest you take the car to a truly independent tester and get a written report on the result of MOT test. From the photo's I would say that's a fail. Near me there is A MOT testing station run by DVSO/VOSA or whatever it is called today , They don't just test Lgv's and Pcv's but also cars . Truly independent as they do no repairs whatsoever .

I have a 17 plate Octy, First MOT in 2020 there was an advisory .NSF shock absorber slight misting of oil .Second MOT, no mention .Third MOT this year & it has returned . From the photo I would call that a leak not slight misting . seems like the dealer is trying to get out of paying for work covered by warranty.

Until very recently the " guide " was to change the timing belt @ 5 years or whatever mileage it was , off hand I cant remember the mileage quoted . This " guide" only applied on cars used in the UK. Common since has finally been applied , hence the reply from Westlands. PS , if the car has previously been serviced by a Skoda dealer then that history will be or should be available by Westlands. service history used to be on paper, It is now digital but only if done by a Skoda dealer. PPS if you have no record of the service history Skoda or otherwise given the age & mileage of the car PPS if you have no record of the service history Skoda or otherwise then given the age & mileage of the car I think an inspection at least of timing belt is needed, preferably a replacement.

Hi welcome to the forum It sounds very much to me that it has gone into limp mode for whatever reason, a diagnostic scan is needed to trace the cause. Was it fine prior to this happening or are there other symptoms before this happened ? .

That's not the timing belt in the photo. A timing belt is toothed or if you prefer castellated , no way in the world would it slip . Very important for a timing belt. Your photo is the multi V belt to drive alternator ( top right hand corner) and Air con compressor (Below it). The smallest pulley is the tensioner . The timing belt is hidden underneath a cover. PS I dont know if the 1.2 TSI has a belt or a chain.

I have Led reverse lamp bulbs in my Octy 3 FL . they are so much brighter than standard bulbs . A tight fit but they do fit without canbus reporting a fault . I also have Led interior bulbs without a fault. You mention rear indicator lamps ?. As far as I know the indicator lamps are monitored by Canbus , And as such will throw up a fault . Canbus monitors the legal road lights only.

Please don't forget that assumption is the fother of many muck ups . Glow plug light covers a lot more than glow plugs & a glow plug fault AFAIK does not induce limp mode . Does the engine start OK from cold ? No mention of the engine in your profile so, 1.6 or 2.0 ? If it's the 1.6 it could be the dreaded EGR problem , If it's the EGR then then it will cost a lot more to fix than new glow plugs.

Yes, I had the same .Not on this 1 but the 1 before it. Known as sawtoothing . Run your finger over the tyre in 1 direction & it feels fine, do the same in the opposite direction & it feels rough. A visit to a place that does 4 wheel alignment using hunter equipment may well reveal the cause of it. It seems that having the cause of it put right the wear pattern remains until the tyres are replaced . By the way it can happen on all Octavia's not just estates.

Yes you're right, S mode is simply a sports version of D mode . It just delays the point that the gearbox changes up a cog, may help with the engine you have . I have a 2.0 diesel & using S mode is futile. S mode will rev the nuts off the engine before a gear is changed . As much as I like the DSG box ( my First ) I really wish that the ECU controlling it had a diesel version . When I'm in boy racer mode I will set off in D & then slap it into manual mode , far , far quicker than D or S mode.

Yes ,fuse number 42 in the passenger glove box . Best of luck for replacing the the damper on the glove box door that you have to remove to check the fuses. Edit to save you taking glovebox door off ,the same fuse does the rear doors central locking & windscreen wipers.

Are the tyres the size they should be ? .It could be that former owner fitted 45 or less profile tyres when it should have 55's.

I have swapped all my interior bulbs to LED , no coding needed and no issues. I got mine from halfords. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs/501-w5w-car-bulb-plus-2

It looks to me like the caliper is being pushed/levered and it's sliding on the bolt exactly like it should do. Or am I missing something ?

With a diesel fitted with a DSG gear box if the DPF is doing a regen you may find that in auto mode 1 gear lower than usual is being selected. This is my first DSG & going down the road @ 30 the gearbox will change up to 3rd instead of the usual 4th . I used to manually change to 4th only to then put it back to auto & it changed back down.

If you look @ the top of the page there is a sticky thread titled my new diesel smells of burning rubber. You will need to get comfy. do you have a DSG gearbox ?. To partly answer some of your questions 1. the DPF will regen as & when needed. It is triggered by the soot levels and will normally happen when the DPF is hot enough. 2. you won't know when it's doing a regen unless you have diagnostic software. If when you park up & switch the engine off & hear the radiator fan running unexpectedly you will know that you've interrupted a regen. There are 2 types of regen passive & active, A passive regen happens as you're driving & the DPF is hot enough. PS if you don't know the answer but want to then it's not a stupid question.

If it happens again it may well be worth parking up somewhere safe & rather than checking anything just sit there with the engine running, if the coolant temp drops almost as fast as it rose it's a fair indication that it is the water pump. I had it happen on my last octy something like 10 times, every single time the temp rose from 90 to 120/130 fast & then dropped back to 90 almost as fast.

From what you have said it would seem that you might have the dreaded water pump problem. suggest you read the sticky thread at the top of the page, it's a long read.

A very minor point but it used to be perfectly legal to remove a DPF but illegal to then drive the car on the road. Not sure but I think it's still the same today.

Hi Maggie, welcome to the forum. I can't answer your question directly I have R17's on mine but if you look @ owner's manual it should state the tyre sizes needed. In the absence of owners manual you may well find a sticker on the inside of the fuel filler flap, either will show tyre sizes needed, there is sometimes 2 shown 1 of them being an alternative. In case you don't know the first figure IE 225/245 or other is the width of the tyre in mm's. The second figure IE 35/50 or other refers to the profile, the height of the sidewall is shown as a percentage of the width so 35 will be 35 percent of 225. The final figure starts with an R followed by in your case 18, that's the rim diameter in inches. R18, no problem width & profile (sidewall) might be a problem as in replacement is too wide or profile too high. It could also be the tyres being replaced were the wrong width/profile. I'm surprised that 225/35 were Slippy.

Having looked @ your last post I struggled at first to make sense of it because of the way you have wrote it, however even for a high miler that's a lot of oil being used. I can't help but wonder if a turbo oil seal has gone allowing oil to pass into turbo where it is then burnt. I also wonder if trying to solve the problem is a case of urinating in the wind given the fact the DPF has been removed, I may well be wrong but I would expect the car to fail the next MOT on soot levels. I won't mention the legality of driving the car on the road.

Hi mick thanks for that but the way the water ran out it seems hole/holes are not blocked . The car was parked pointing slightly down hill & all the water looked like it was coming out a drain hole near the leading edge of door is there only the 1 hole ?, I would expect more. will have a look tomorrow.

A bit of an odd one but vacuumed the inside of the car, on opening the rear passenger side door water started running out the bottom of the door at a decent rate Ie fast trickle for 2/3 minutes before reducing to a minor trickle, judging by the massive wet patch left on the drive I'm guessing as much as 1/2 gallon. the thing that has me baffled is why it only drains with the door open all other doors correctly drain with door shut ,does anyone have any theories as to why, I've yet to look at it but some inspiration and/or clues would be very welcome. Thank you

I've recently had my cam belt done @ a local independent simply because it was 5 & a bit years . 2.0 Diesel cambelt & kit including aux belt and water pump £462. with just 52K miles on the clock was tempted leave it but decided not worth the risk.

Having had both I would opt for a 2.0 rather than a 1.6 , the extra grunt from the 2.0 is very nice to have in everyday driving , makes for far more relaxing driving . The extra grunt ( approx ) 40 horses means that keeping up with other traffic is a doddle unlike the 1.6 . The extra grunt when I want to boot it is even better, the bonus ( for me ) is the fact the 2.0 is better on fuel than the 1.6. I found that with a mix of driving the 2.0 was on average anywhere between 2 & 5 mpg better than the 2.0 .

Less than a day after reading this post I spilt 1/2 a pint of milk on front passenger seat , with my hand forced I bit the bullet and used my carpet cleaner on it with a weak mix of shampoo . So far so good no sign of an adverse effect on the fabric.