J.R.

Pot, kettle, black.

My problem is that I did read your instructions and believe that it is impossible for the reasons that I explained in detail. This is a forum for helping each other, if my technique was incorrect and there is a way to achieve the force required to turn a wheel against considerable resistance twith one hand (including the weaker arm) to anywhere near the speed that an MOT tester can with it in front of his chest starting with both arms then you should be happy to share that with me. That you dont tells me that I need not spend any more time questioning why I cannot achieve what others are advocating. Polite instructions would be welcome.

I quite agree regarding differentiating front to back and I recently posted exactly that, perhaps not on this thread.

Then I extend to you Petrolman the invitation made to Xman to please educate me as to how you physically managed this to yourself.

I will compare the other wheels next time, I have stood beside my CT tester when he has shown me a failing bearing and felt the strut (thats what he touches) to feel it myself while he spun the wheel,. Trying to replicate that myself with the vehicle jacked up even using 2 hands I could not get anywhere near the speed he used and that was in a crouching position outside of the wheel to use the maximum force of both arms where it is impossible to reach behind the suspension with one arm and still have sufficient purchase with the other to continue the rotation, I'm still very agile but the wheel would stop in the time it took me to flip over and slide under. I use garage trolley jacks so not a height issue and the Yeti has lots of room around the wheel in the arch. Turning the steering onto lock increases the drag considerably through the CV joint and gaiter. Can you describe how you do it please?

Yes and No.

Incorrect assumption, it is belt driven from the crankshaft pulley together with the alternator, dynamos have not been fitted to vehicles for 50 years.

Yes but I can't work out the logic of why especially when these vehicles always have another 50-1000 miles of "virtual reserve capacity" beyond the zero miles remaining indication. It would be better to pop up a message saying "regen about to commence, press X to abort is you have less then 20kms remaining of your journey" but then people would realise just how frequently they happen.

Petrolbloke. Peoples experiences and connection via their senses to the vehicle will differ. It is very difficult to spin a jacked up wheel fast enough against the drag of a disc brake and driveshaft, differential bearings etc and impossible to do it in a position where you can also get your hand behind the wheel to touch the suspension strut or spring. Easier to do whilst standing upright with the vehicle on a 4 post lift but still very difficult, rear undriven wheels less so with two people it can be done well and give good results. I would be fairly sure that you have never actually tried the former of what you are recommending.

Very well put and thanks for the example chart. Are they still stuck with the centuries old text of light sources being of a certain wattage or have they finally changed to luminous intensity? The words "minimum intensity" would indicate they have, as someone frequently being dazzled by modern LED headlight equipped vehicles I hope their is a maximum specified.

The first law of Thermodynamics.

A lot of residual heat has to be dissipated from the turbocharger, exhaust manifold and DPF especially when a regeneration was taking place.

I have several of my own that I have bought and used frequently, I once cut one off in a car park where cowboy clampers were operating illegally, that was a bit scary setting to with my petrol disc cutter as the guys they employed were sadistic cop killer bouncer types. The padlocks usually are worth far more than the clamps, the contractors use that type as if someone cuts it off its just a section of chain to replace and they are much quicker to fit, the clampers have to look over their shoulders as well!!!!

I love the way that it is very similar to a physical catalogue which fewer and fewer manufacturers produce these days. As a former design engineer I built up a huge library during my career and I still much prefer to leaf through a catalogue than use the computer. I am a dinosaur.

I blame the hysterical tyres!

What pressure does it measure and why, peak combustion pressure?

Skoda ones wont, the software automatically adds the line "front & rear brake discs & pads 75% worn" to every service invoice.

I was going to suggest the alternator pulley one way sprag clutch but dont know if one is fitted to your vehicle, I frequently make mistakes regarding the Fabia that Pete has to put me right on. The noise is similar and the belt/tensioner slapping around is definitely a keynote symptom of that clutch seizing, if its fitted.

Good + 1 Nice and visible as well plus the sharing on social media should maximise the effect.

I have known brake fluid enter a non direct acting brake servo but never engine oil. Also any fluid would be contained within the sealed servo chamber, I only knew about the fluid when I stripped the servo to rebuild and half a gallon poured out! OK having to rebuild the servo was an indication in hindsight but I was only 18 at the time.

No, please ignore my suggestion.

Clever engine oil if it finds its way to the clutch pedal other than by the soles of the OP's shoes!

That can happen but do you have a hydraulic clutch that shares the same fluid reservoir? Have you noticed odd clutch pedal feel? If so the slave cylinder would be my first port of call, you will probably see the fluid on the undertray of your vehicle has one. All the above might be totally irrelevant, I frequently make wrong assumptions about the Fabia thinking it shares the same components as the other vehicle platforms.

And down comes the high side pressure so the fan cuts out, pressure rises again fan cuts back in, rinse and repeat................... Good diagnosis Pete 👍

Wife or mirror?