J.R.

Variable vane turbo needs a Mr Muscle Enema.

That would be the obvious place if it is within reach of the lead. But leaving an uninsulated ring terminal hanging free that you fear is at 240v mains voltage is ok?

😄😄 I have a stock of blank Tare plates for trailers: https://www.maxter-accessoires.com/1940/plaque-constructeur.html My letter & number stamping is not as straight and equally spaced as it once was.

It could have been that it had coincidentally reset itself after going over the 1000 miles or whatever the reset threshold is. Whenever I suspect my readings I look to see how many miles have been recorded. Now I'm wondering if it only resets after a journey has been completed? These things are sent to exercise our grey matter!

You are the Third Party, why could he find his-self with a bill for your vehicle and your expenses? Not the old "if your vehicle is not taxed your insurance is invalid" nonsense again is it?

I understand, respect and agree with your caution given your lack of knowledge regarding mains protection. But please dont enforce your views on someone experienced and qualified in this field, by encouraging the OP to leave the mains earthing wire disconnected you are putting him at risk if there were a fault condition.

You have answered your own question without realising it, perhaps you do not have an understanding of electrics and the dangers therein, in which case instead of trying to ridicule what I say maybe try to learn from it. Any metal framed electrical appliance should be earthed for safety although there are far too many modern appliances like metal bathroom heaters that save the cost of one wire by using the double insulation cop out. You ask why would the vehicle mains heater be connected to the vehicle ground, to be clear its the house mains Earth connection that is connected to the vehicle metal frame. To answer your question I can simply quote your further text, you give a good explanation. It would not electrocute you because the short to the house supply earthing would blow the fuse or MCB, on a modern system the RCD should trip in 30ms before the MCB would trip, often its both. If this dangling terminal were not connected then a fault causing the vehicle body to be at 240vac would likely kill someone touching the vehicle (especially if it was raining or the ground wet) if the house fuseboard was not RCD protected.

That should give you some security regarding the O ring problem, hopefully they will have machined the bore, pisto, & seal groove correctly, something that large and in a protected environment compared to a small exposed cylinder providing the same force really should not fail as often as they do.

Working but the system does not recognise running of gîtes, Chambre d'hôtes or small hôtels as working, its classed as sitting back and watching the money pour in from your investments, as such it is not counted towards retirement but the contributions are lower. With up to 5 changeovers a day and having to be on site all the time and spend all day waiting for renters who will not give their arrival time I can tell you it was definitely working. I am over the French retirement age but under the now increased UK one, I have been trying for over a year to make voluntary NIC contributions to buy back missing pension years as I only have 26 out of 35, used to be 26 out of 30 but before that it was 26 out of 40 so I can't complain about that, just their inability to answer the phone or do any work. The grants used to be we will give you X Euros towards insulation or whatever if you use an accredited installer who invariably would charge treble the going rate and 15 times the cost of buying the materials and doing the work yourself, the average French person will happily pay 3 times the value of something if they get a tax rebate of a third of it!!!! Its a lot better now and if you are on a low income like mine then solar panels, loft and internal wall insulation, new boiler, heat pump hot water cylinder etc can often be had for free, I will be trying to get external wall insulation but will have to pay probably a third, happy to do that but not when the price is treble what it should be. For tax reasons the place I am restoring is not declared as my principal residence so many of the subsidised schemes are not available, if I flipped my residence I would have to pay a huge amount of capital gains tax when the hôtel sells as they do not take into account any money I have spent on it or the 12 years working on the restoration and transformation.

Yes, the new ones have a degree of radial movement before the springs act, there is a Youtube video showing and explaining it well, I think it was produced by an OEM manufacturer who was fed up with getting perfect new units returned. You should not be able to move the flywheel rim fore and aft, that is a sign of wear. I bet the old slave cylinder looked perfect with no leakage, am I right? Thats because it was, the air gets in past the O ring joining the two plastic sections, to prevent you new one going the same way look at where the pipe comes out of the bellhousing, I'm not sure if they are supposed to have an isolating grommet there, mine didn't, any movement will cause the two parts to move relative to each other until the O ring seal is compromised, seal the gap with something like Sikaflex. I managed to find a new old stock early cast aluminium one piece cylinder, the failures only started when they moved to cheaper plastic cylinders made in 2 pieces.

There are moulded in "cracks" which pass through the whole width of the coupling and split it circumferentialy so that probably only about 45° out of 360° is attached, this is how the outside mass with the heavy annulus is decoupled from the drivetrain and how it absorbs the vibrations. Even were it to detach whilst it would make a lot of clanging and no doubt alert any driver with a pulse well before it would not affect the couplings ability to transfer the drive torque.

That points to a failure of whatever the system is to maintain an equal level in both tanks or perhaps to draw fuel from the RH tank first. Next time I use VCDS, if the fuel guage shows about 1/2 a tank I will look to see what the individual volume of fuel is on both sides.

No need to declutch, in fact it will put strain on the drivetrain if you do, the engine does not need restarting just the ignition (OK I know a diesel does not have ignition) switch needs cycling, switch off and switch on again immediately and the boost will return, if you dont unload the engine it will fail again in short order. Avoiding full throttle and high revs during the warm up period in winter is essential. Freeing off the turbo actuator does not require a strip down, just a long thin rigid stick and good aim with WD40 or similar.

There is only one of me and neither of us 😄 is in receipt of benefits from either the UK or French governments. I am living on savings.

Deleted, misunderstanding, thought it was a cam chain.

Not even wear, the seperation that they and I both mistook for disintegration is moulded in and an integral part of the design, the new one I bought is identical 😒 Every now and then I try to pull the outer ring sideways on the one on the car and compare it to the new unused one in the bench vice, no difference yet. I was only out for €80 and the part will one day be used if the diff ever comes out or propshaft removed.

T Todays mechanic's Bravo Sugar offering:

Yes and yes. Actually perhaps yes and no, I have a recollection that I had to do some other coding with a set up code or something, IIRC the initial procedure description was very poor and resulted in the error.

What kind of a mechanic would fit a timing chain kit and start the engine when he has already done a compression test and found low compression on one cylinder? Was the £1550 including a new catastrophic convertor? You are likely to have paid the labour element of the timing chain replacement twice. I cant account for why the valves were not bent on the other 2 cylinders but that should have saved you some expense.

Exceptions would be the main battery cable to the starter solenoid or if someone has bodged in a towing relay connection to the battery.

Then carry on cycling the ignition and learn from when it occurs how to prevent or delay it happening.

That would 100% always be an insulated sealed connector not a bare ring terminal. Bare ring terminals will 100% be ground wires.

To the nearest earth point within its swing, with luck you will find one with other ground cables attached, if not then find the fastener with the right diameter for the ring terminal.

I don't want to spoil your sleep but a problem not currently manifesting does not equal a problem disappeared. Skomaz, I am going to have a good look at mine soon, sounds like I have an as yet undiscovered potential problem item!

I would have made the same error myself. 👍