J.R.

Not whether but when!

When I read that I thought "Oh Merde!" Sadly I think that Pete is probably correct in this instance as much as we all hope he isnt. Drum rear brakes?

I know you wrote to confirm it, I gave you a thumbs up and made no further mention of calipers being reversed. I am only trying to help, thats what the forum is for.

Ah so they are the illuminated icons! Yes mine does have it but it was too dark to check. I have every sympathy with the nephew for thinking that he could turn it anti-clockwise, he probably does not yet have a license so wont have twigged that you should not drive on foglights alone. I spent hours alone in the drivers seat of my parents car "practicing" (fantasising) for the day when I would be driving, I probably wore out the clutch, throttle and gear linkages, the engine would always be flooded after one of my sessions and not want to restart, being obsessive and with a thirst for knowledge I knew exactly what the problem was but did not dare admit it, when my father would lose his rag with the reluctant Capri I would suggest he tried again with the throttle on the floor just in case it might be flooded!

If the switch should not be turned anti-clockwise what are the 2 icons at the 21.00 and 22.00 positions for?

The pedal will become harder when you clamp off any caliper but unless it becomes solid ie no trace of sponginess I would not assume the problem lies there, calipers are easy to bleed and air usually gets trapped along horizontal sections of brake pipes, bends etc, the ABS block or the master cylinder being the highest point. Regarding the latter the MK1 Octavia actually has one possibly two (it was a long time ago) bleed nipples on the master cylinder, they are quite hidden and bleeding them cured my spongy pedal problem, I cant recall why I was working on it, perhaps I had changed the fluid. My symptoms were just like yours, I had never before seen a bleed nipple on a master cylinder.

That the front calipers are not reversed side to side.

The other way, tried & tested by myself is to have the emissions fix rolled back.

Yes, go through the millions of parameters in measuring blocks and there will be one, probably repeated umpteen times (with most of them showing zero) showing the constant used and as ever it will have a very misleading if not completely erroneous name. Finding it is one thing, working out how to edit it is another. How do your measured values compare to the calculated?

Most common will be low refrigerant pressure and the cost will be that of a recharge, I'm 20 years out of date with UK prices but from what I read between £65 and £140. Most other jobs will entail that cost in addition to the work done, the exception being the high side pressure sensor which can be replaced without evacuating the system, a 10 minute job and a cheap part but still ends up being charged out at a fortune.

Yes you are correct regarding the thrust face wear, I was not thinking properly, 20 years ago I was building and rebuilding engines all the time. The big end bearings look perfect so you do not need to disturb the crankshaft, the main bearings have a much easier life. I would just throw a set of rings at it, you could still hone the bores with the crank in situ you just need to make some preparations, I would not hesitate to remove the crank and ignore all the warnings, its eye opening to watch the manufacturers race teams during a 24 hour race paying zero attention to all the guff they insist the dealership workshops have to abide by.

The first thing to say is that the crankshaft thrust bearings are probably worn if you have scuffing on one side of the bores, they used to be located either side of the centre main bearing but things may have changed in recent decades. You can check the bearing clearances with Plastiguage but usually a visual inspection will tell you everything you need to know, whether they can be reused, replaced with standard size shells or a regrind and oversized shells. I would ignore the warning, if you need to remove the crank then you have to remove it.

Who is going to watch a 9.5 hour and counting video? I did flick through it and watched one charging stop again flicking through, it took 40 minutes!!!!!!!!!! 🤯 during which time the video showed him eating his meal and then carried on filming while he was on the toilet, yuk! It had a very dirty floor. 20 recharging stops to do 1000 kms, if they all take as long as that (and I'm not watching any more to see) then he will have spent 2/3 of the time charging and 1/3 driving, hardly a good advert for EV's is it! I have been driving VAG diesel vehicles for the last 20 years, every single one of them has done 1000kms on one tank of fuel, thats one refuelling stop and not 20. How much did his credit card get hammered for the 20 recharges? And did he eat a meal or snacks every time?

If you are facing a bill like that you should invest in VCDS and then you will never have to believe the guff that a garage tells you, if you are someone who has all their repairs done by a garage its imperative that you should take control of the diagnostic process and not be either deliberately milked or finance the parts cannon because they cant diagnose a fault. I reckon it will pay for itself 5 times over on this problem alone and save you a fortune in the long term.

Probably the least worst outcome you could have had asking a mobile mechanic to set up the ACC system.

Starter motor pinion sprag (one way) clutch. Having read it again do you mean the engine stalls after you release the key or the noise stops?

My Father would have been 18 during the transition period, no way was he driving then and had probably only been a passenger a couple of times, I reckon anyone who was old enough to drive before 1935 and who had aspirations to do so one day went out and bought a license. I'm pretty sure the first car he drove and eventually owned was my grandfathers (his FIL) prewar Morris 8 but that was after the war when he had married my mother, she would have been 6 years old in 1935, he was a cradle snatcher but not that bad!!!!

Your money your choice, its a lot to spend to realise that your instinct was correct.

Ho got 6 seconds before being deleted, 5 seconds longer than had he started with an excited "HI GUYS!"

Make sure you only use Skoda or VAG electricity!

Precisely, all it takes is for the hall sensor magnet to crack, any anomolous reading is ignored, with only 3 working sensors all of the related systems stop functioning and for reasons that I cannot understand a fault code comes up as no communications with ABS controller, probably just another crap description for something completely different. Mine started playing up after I clipped a kerb.

They aint goin to be making them there, they want to be as far away from the coal face as they can, with manufacturing in 17 countries what better place than the UK? It will be the last country in the world to actually manufacture anything.

My father never took a driving test and he had his license before the war so it was not for him a wartime exemption, at least thats what I recall him telling me, he said you just bought one in the post office like a dog license, do people still buy them? I had no driving lessons and took & passed my test 2 weeks after my 17th birthday, my license by then was plastered with endorsements for (being caught) driving underage.

It probably wont but they wont tell you that, they will be making excuses as to why you cannot have your car back while they scratch their heads and hopefully then find and replace the £4 wheel speed sensor on the quiet.

The issue date of my license was in my mid 20's as I had moved home several times and when I finally bought my own place I had the license updated, it was also a way of having the expired endorsements removed and getting a "clean" license, it still retained the correct expiry date of my 70th birthday, maybe something went wrong with yours, at 22 the ages of 64 or 70 would both seem light years away.