J.R.

And how does the SOS module communicate when its in a dead spot? I struggle to believe that any SOS message from a VAG vehicle would elicit any response from the emergency services after crying wolf so many times. In a previous life in a previous century I ran a burglar alarm company, Police respnse could only be gained from an alarm activation if it was a system installed by a company on the Police approved list & the signal went first to a central monitoring station, latterly all activations had to be verified by a secondary sensor activation and/or audio/video. Even with all the above if there were more than 2 false alarms within 12 months the Police response would be withdrawn, VAG and Skoda must have sent through thousands of false emergency SOS messages.

I have one of those at low revs, something resonating that I have yet to find and its getting worse, when it does not do it it sounds pleasant

What does tiresome sound like?

It will do after a certain(long) period, something like 100 operating hours IIRC.

I used your words in jest at another person. Your words which painted a different story to the one you recount now.

They all sound low for a diesel but I am only basing that on my knowledge of petrol engine compressions both standard and tuned, I though diesels were much higher?

Bon rétablissement!

I'm heartened to hear that I am not the only one to be concerned with getting his moneysworth from a license that when I paid for it was supposed to last 57 years. Out of principal I would never willingly change to a photocard and pay for something that I hav already paid for and to keep paying again every 10 years. My license is getting very tatty though despite it being 30 + years since I have been asked by Plod to remove it from its sleeve. Anyone on here old enough to have a license but that never took a driving test? My late father just went into a Post Office and bought his.

+1 For Owatrol.

It is there, you just havn't found it, follow the wires all the way to the seat side airbag and it will reveal itself, it may be tucked inside the foam.

Not relevant as mine is a 2.0 TDi.

Every petrol engine management system from the mid 90's if not before have had that feature as standard, it's called a knock sensor and 3D mapping.

Harder rear springs are working well on the Yeti for the abuse it is currently getting without spoiling too much the unladen riden being a 4x4 the ride height was already Tonka Toy like so the increase in rake does not really matter. I have found however, possibly due to the short rear axle overhang that when I couple a trailer with far too much nose weight like tonight it only compresses the rear springs a small amount and the reaction lifts the front suspension instead, the ensemble tows well and I prefer to have a forward towing weight bias but I have to adjust the headlight aim more than on other tow vehicles. The same springs on my MKII Octavia raised the rear too high and caused towball height problems, the answer again was to increase the nose weight and carry load in the rear compartment, that levelled it out but did not raise the front significantly.

At least you will get some springs that are better than the old broken ones, I know of at least 4 people that had to buy LHD dipping headlights to get their car registered in France, in each case they went to the main dealers and explained exactly what they required (as I said before that carries no importance) and in each case the vehicles failed the contrôle technique because they had ordered and fitted at huge cost the exact same RHD dipping headlights that were removed, no apologies, no refunds & they all trotted out the same line, it was the correct part for the VIN number and they were not allowed to fit anything else 🤣 One person got it through the CT by my rotating the H4 bulbs in their holders and they used the reciept from the dealer for the wrong non conforming headlights to get their registration, paperwork compliance is the important thing here

The law not that it really exists simply serves to enrichen the players, when it doesn't suit them it suddenly doesn't apply. It basically says that only manufacturers parts can be fitted for safety related items which they will all claim includes plastic bumpers door mirrors, indicator lenses etc, not that the car manufacturers actually make any of this stuff 🙄, just over the border in Belgium there are motor factors doing a roaring trade, you can have a new bumper sprayed and fitted to your vehicle while you wait (spraying done ahead of your arrival) for less than a third of the cost of a bare unpainted unfitted bumper in France. But you are on a hiding to nothing trying to convince any French tradesman to do what you require rather than what suits them. The EU homologation certificate does not specify what springs are allowable, having had the same discourse 15 years ago at a Skoda dealer I know the rough road package springs come up on their computer and they would have sold them to me but the price as always was silly, I used Grayston helper springs instead.

The Can network and all the Can controllers remaining in active mode while the courtesy lights, welcome home lights etc would be active, yes you have disabled them but the controllers are still active during that time, others for a lot longer like the lighting controller that will switch off the courtesy lights if the rear hatch or a door is left open more than 30 minutes. A new battery will probably reduce the voltage drop, well it wont but it may have a higher cell voltage, but the Can network and controllers will still be active.

Oh well that is some compensation, as for the other stuff, as you say having lived here as long as I then its pretty much what we come to expect. I can't think of a simpler or quicker job than changing rear springs, the garages probably spend more time being creative with their charges than doing the job. At least you will have a stress free drive home knowing you have good (for now at least) springs and that they are unlikely to have screwed up fitting them.

Good luck tomorrow, I am pleased to see that Carlston has once again come up with the goods, now you can insist the garage order the springs with the DF suffix, they will cost more than the Kilen/lesjofors ones but better than paying for the standard BH rear springs & then having to replace them with the uprated ones when you return. I am moving to Bergerac & will be taking another trailer load down in a couple of days including all the tools & trolley jack etc to change springs, (I only recently threw a good pair away), passing not far from Charente Maritime and might be on your return route, if you are in need of my help please PM me.

That would usually cause an overboost and put the car in limp mode, cycling the ignition normally clears it. It sounds to me like a clagged up intake tract at the point of the throttle valve, I say this from experience of my 2.0TDi at 79k miles, however only yesterday I offered the same diagnosis for someone with the same vehicle, same engine (higher powered) and same year and another contributor corrected me that their engine was an EU6 compared to my EU5 and a completely different EGR set up. So I can't be sure if my experience and suggestion is relevant to the OP, it does sound exactly like it though and I do have about 15 years of living with and working around stuck turbo vanes. That said a Mr Muscle enema would not go amiss, it could be that they are prevented from opening fully, maybe a sticky actuator as well?

I can only suggest that you follow the detailed instructions that I posted at the time, I cannot recall or visualise the details some 4 or more years later. I had to tip the seat up to find that there was a second connector, at that time nobody had spoken of it, I now see that several others have had the same experience as me, just a shame that the garages can't be as determined & would rather rip the customers off. Given that you have now had confirmed from several sources the existance of said connector and its rough position you might be able to locate it by feel but to work on it will require the seat tipping unless you are a practiced blind gynaecologist.

And on my last 2 engines with inverted oil filter housings I could use the suction tool to remove a significant amount of dirty oil remaining in the filter housing and also draw more oil than what was visible so perhaps from the pick up pipe, the oil pump or an oil gallery, I dont know where but it is a significant quantity of the old oil that would otherwise remain in the engine.

Actually from your location it looks like you live in France, or perhaps the caravan is stored there?

You will be lucky to get what you are given after a long wait, they will just put the chassis number into the computer and order what it says. As Ken said, wait till you are back in the UK before ordering springs better adapted to your use, Carlson will probably post with the best options and part numbers for you. Rear springs are very very easy to fit. I hope I am wrong but I have a feeling that after becoming fed up with being screwed around you will end up driving back on the sagging springs anyway, if you do stow your boot load centrally over the axle of the caravan, try less nose weight if it remains stable. good luck!

That was a good price but what was the other part deemed not required that they would also have fitted for the £1K worst case estimate? How many miles had your vehicle done? I have the same engine, I replaced the DMF at about 90k, it was only when I had it remapped and it would pull much higher revs to develop the power that I could hear the harshness of the failed DMF, it sounded like the diesel knocking that the tractor pulling engines make before they explode!!! You may be perfectly happy with the 105hp and narrow power band but mine was a liability for mid range overtaking and towing heavy trailers, I had it remapped and it transformed the vehicle, i mention it because I see you are in Cornwall and it was a Celtic tuning remap I had, they are in Newquay and I would recommend them. Due to covid travel restrictions mine was done at a local dealer in Surrey, had I taken it to Celtic they would have rolled back the emissions fix during the programming for no charge. I had a flying visit to Cornwall Friday for a funeral, I dropped in unnanounced at 11am and said that I had 90 minutes spare before I had to leave for a funeral and they were very accomodating, and they removed the VAG emissions fix, they charged me for it but I wasn't going to try negotiating as I was so pleased that they went out of their way for me.

Completely normal, I have done the same myself but deliberately. The guage and remaining miles display are accurate down to just over 1/4 of a tank at which point they fall further than reality to create a virtual reserve capacity of around 5 liters. I ran mine dry, I wanted to be sure that I could drive at least 60 miles with zero miles remaining as on the previous Skoda, it was indeed the case, I put in 5l from a jerrycan and drove maybe 4km to the nearest fuel station, after putting in the 5l it actually showed as 20 miles remaining, pretty accurate as it could only have been 1cm across the bottom of the tank, within 1km it had dropped to 10 miles and then dropped straight to zero miles again, after filling the tank it showed full and the correct range. In general, different driving conditions and journey profiles aside, when you fill up it shows the true range that the vehicle can cover on the fuel, at 1/2 a tank it is still truthfull, I will have driven 300 miles and it shows 300 remaining, thenat 1/4 of a tank it does as I described, it will show zero miles remaining at little over 500 miles but I continue driving for another 50-80 miles dependant on speeds & journey profile. All the above figures were from my previous Octavia, I would not run dry the common rail engine on my Yeti to test so I dont know exactly what virtual reserve I have but I still drive 50 miles after "zero miles remaining" and have not run out yet.