J.R.

Good call!

I have no recollection of that Milud! Nor of how mysteriously the fix became unfixed a month ago!

I believe so, maybe even paying out more than one time on the same vehicle. I had never heard of the defeat device scandal until you mentioned it, I am now traumatised having Googled it, I feel violated. Needs a bit more refining and then repeating until I earnestly believe it!

He would have to be a patient scrote because that looks to be a 4mm max self drilling screw. It's more likely to be something that was/is attached or malicious, I would check the inside sidewall of the rear tyres for the same attack.

The running costs both yours and mine would have been significantly less had we signed up with the accident chasing lawyers for a Dieselgate claim - £2100 in yer bin! It would have given me back more than 50% of what my Yeti cost me in total. Regarding silly prices, can anyone throw a guess at what my vehicle is worth in todays skewed market, its only out of interest I am not intending selling, I would use WBAC again but don't want to be besieged with text messages for 6 months again. 2015 Facelift Yeti "Outdoor" 4x4, 2.0 TDi, 108hp (now remapped to claimed 184hp, probably 170), 110000 miles now. I think its probably too high mileage to join the silly money estimations.

Malicious.

Are you certain that the alternator shaft is actually turning and not just the pulley? Given the previous noises from the one way clutch and your description of what preceeded the failure it has to be a favorite suspect. Generally you will not feel the load of the alternator, a difference in sound perhaps, the same for modern clutchless aircon unless it has low refrigerant.

Your figures don't add up, you did not include the depreciation in the list of running costs and if the £16K you estimate is added to the total then by my calculations your running costs would have been £35325 divided by 9 years equals £3925 per year. I agree regarding the seats, there really is nothing to them so for what they are they are more comfortable than I would expect but poor compared to other vehicles that I have owned.

Check the connector for loose or burned terminals and the wiring for broken cores. What preceeded the failure?

They have done a good number on you and you have swallowed it. You will wise up on their responsabilities and not letting them use the warranty to bin you off but they will probably use the 200 mile distance problem to wear you down, also the work that you have done yourself. Video will not play for me. Sounds like the DPF is clogged but you have reset the values so it will show as empty which does not help you, what is the differential pressure at tickover and the 3.5k rpm static rev limit?

Those crystals are more than big enough to block the fluid return path through the clutch bleed block AKA peak torque limiter, on the downstroke there is no restriction but when you lift the pedal the fluid has only a tiny orifice to pass through, well less than 1mm diameter. I would definitely remove the slave cylinder and bleed block, I think its one unit on your vehicle, strip and clean it as you have done with the old master cylinder, while its off purge the pipes before refitting. You also need to empty and refill the brake master cylinder with new fluid , if you did not do this last time then the only way to be sure is to remove and strip the new master cylinder which you wont be looking forward to. And of course as a matter of safety you should bleed the brakes and the ABS unit, the crystals whatever they are are equally likely to be present in the braking system and wont do parts with fine passages like the master cylinder and ABS block any favours.

Moisture crystallizing................................ An interesting concept which just goes to prove you can find anything you want on the internet. In Alaska maybe, Spain? - I dont see it somehow. None of which helps you identify what the gunge was nor what mine was, all I can say is they were completely different.

Suspension wise yes but in terms of the wheel envelope, the wheelarch liner the Yeti especially in "Outdoor" spec has far more space above the wheel. That said its may make contact with full suspension travel on full lock to the inner part of the arch liner and that could well be common between the vehicles

Yes, there is a void which must connect to the main oil gallery (I dont think its the pick up pipe) you can see a volume of oil in there but what sucks out is considerably more than the void when revealed empty could have held. It was the same on my previous PD engine, both had the inverted oil filter withdrawn from the top revealing the baseplate of the pump/cooler unit, maybe the oil was from the cooler. If you can find the figures there is a different (larger) capacity for filling a rebuilt engine to that of an oil and filter change, my method removes close to the former figure.

Nothing like what was in mine but it would definitely cause stiction.

Thats the funniest thing I have read in weeks! Is this what you would have preferred it to have done?

Whatever volume you have left in the can you bought be it 1.75 litres, or 0.75 litres then suck that amount of diluted oil out or a little less if it is not on the upper level of the dipstick and replace with new. That will further reduce the dilution. I use a solid copper tube (an old fuel line) with my vacuum extractor, that way I can feel and hear that it has touched the bottom, the flexible pipes curl upwards. I also use it to suck out the oil filter housing including the main oil gallery, it pulls up a significant amount of old oil which would otherwise remain.

A salesman selling insurance being on commission, who would have ever thought of that!

They do what is written on the tin. It's just you dont appreciate where they deflect the wind to 🤣

Anti roll bar drop link.

Having read the thread again then I would say you are correct, the master cylinder may have been sticking, if so then it will be the magnetised gunge that I had, I nevr could detect where it came from which is a little concerning for the future. I was watching one of the UK TV road cop fly on wall episodes this week, the flic was chasing a speeder driving a vintage BMW 3 series, he was driving an Audi something, his clutch pedal went to the floor and didn't return!!!!

Good luck with that!!!! When you get fed up with struggling with the segmented collet clips let me know and I will give you the magic trick to getting it apart. Mine was full of magnetised crud around the reed switch magnet (might be hall affect), if they are not leaking they cannot really fail, they are such a simple design, if the piston is pushed in then the fluid will be displaced, it contains no other valves or seals.

You left them in your overall top pocket when they were collected by the laundry, I could have had no end of 10mm spanners, about half as many 13mm ones, absolutely nothing else though, I bought the feeler guages.

One of the few Snap-On tools that I own and worth every penny, pound more like. One side is flat usual size feeler blades, the other side are narrower and double cranked which in their day were very usefull for gapping points, they mainly get used on magneto ignition engines on garden & construction equipment these days. The other Snap-On tools are 10mm and 13mm combination spanners.

My first cylinder swap I also failed to seat the sealing washer properly, it had remained in the cylinder and I wrongly thought the pipe simply needed clipping back into place, I wasted a huge volume of fluid trying to bleed the system until I noticed the lake spreading out under the vehicle, the drips were falling hidden behind the sound insulation. The seal has to be clipped onto the pipe first, not just pushed on but pushed on firmly until it clips. I ended up doing the job so many times it became quite easy, removing and refitting the master cylinder I found relatively simple but being partially sighted I am very good at working by feel. I found putting that clip in place quite difficult without stripping the pedal assembly as it had to be done with the pushrod ball already in place, I used a couple of screwdrivers, I presume thats what your special tool is for. I had problems with the pushrods detaching from the piston on pattern part cylinders, one time I forgot that I had clamped the flexible hose, I had just fitted the master cylinder and then sheared the plastic pushrod trying to bleed it