J.R.

Thankyou, I wasn't aware that in 2015 they started fitting EU6 engines, my 2015 is EU5, I think that I should be pleased about that, less complication etc but mine is a real crock of shoîte anyway.

Only one way to find out, at 79K miles mine was completely clagged up & he difference in performance after cleaning was amazing, it was then only 108hp & down to what? probably 80hp I reckon, if yours is equally clagged it wont develop any more power and the gain when its cleared will be far more than mine was. Mine was running perfectly and then it shook a bit on shut down, I was concerned that it was the DMF which was not so great and was later changed post remap but the shaking was caused by the throttle flap being obstructed by the clag and not being able to close fully, its used as an anti-shudder device on shut down. Searching this forum or Google will bring up loads of photos of severely clagged up intakes mine included.

Clogged up inlet tract around the stepper motor throttle plate from the overworked EGR after the emissions fix

To confirm the diagnosis clamp off the vacuum hose to the servo before starting the engine, the pedal force needed to brake will be much much higher (I dont recommend that you drive like this) but the brakes should not lock on.

What catches people out, myself included, is that its such a simple system compared to any previous vehicle that they make the wrong assumptions. There are some complicated bits like the peak torque limiter AKA clutch bleed block which limits the speed at which the clutch can be engaged but the basic system is dead simple albeit designed with precision.

It is very simple and not rocket science. The clutch pedal does not have a return spring contrary to common belief, it has a very heavy control loading spring acting on a cam which will adds force to the pedal on the lower 1/3rd of the stroke pulling it to the floor and a counterforce on the upper 1/3rd lifting it to the top end stop position, the middle part of the travel is a dwell point on the lobe of the cam. The master cylinder contrary to popular belief is a simple displacement piston and has no return spring or secondary valves. When you engage the clutch (bring your foot up) the only thing that brings the pedal up through the first half (and a bit) of its travel is the force of the clutch diaphragm operating through the release bearing creating a hydraulic pressure acting on the master cylinder piston, if there is even a very small amount of air in the system the clutch pedal will stick in the mid position because the force has to compress the control loading spring. A tuned in driver will have noticed that the force they exerted to disengage the clutch was less than usual, that is to say that it felt spongy.

You have not specified what part you require ideas about, the whole steering wheel? The steering wheel controller, the clockspring? IMO its likely to be the latter.

Check to see if the headlights dim when you crank the engine under normal circumstances and also when its playing up. You should carry a multimeter and frequently monitor the battery resting and charging voltage, I have an LCD voltmeter installed for just that reason. It sounds like your car has the crock of shoîte eco battery management system that is either playing up or the battery is failing and needs a full charge which it is never going to get, I would disable the system (disconnect sensing lead) and then see how the battery performs before deciding whether to replace it and reinstate the system.

Deleted, I confused the photographs between 2 different contributors.

My suggestion is that you stop observing what is happening through a computer screen and use your real senses, a lot of what VCDS produces is utter rubbish, commanded or worse still theoretical values but with no closed loop feedback to know that the action is actually happening, fans at 28% being one of them, the power drawn by the compressor another. You should look at the high side pressure (OK you need your screen for that) and watch the fans with your eyes, the pressure should climb and the fans should cut in after say 20-30 seconds at which point the pressure will fall and equalise & that is when the refrigeration occurs, it does not sound to me like your vehicle is doing this and in the absence of having proper high & low side guage readings plus ambient temperature my gut feeling is that you are low on refrigerant.

I don't disagree with you in this instance and the OP appears to have an aftermarket supposedly compatible module with Canbus connections so has the capability of screwing up lots of other systems which it appears to be doing. There is however another way, I respect your belief that an OEM ADAS system is the only way people should be going but there is another way, much cheaper, less complicated without all the bells and whistles and functionality but critically one that does not connect to the canbus network and so cannot screw up anything else. I am talking of course about a modern low impedance trailer relay unit viewed as herecy by many on this forum, only as good as the muppet who installs it but done properly will work faultlessly and load the existing rear light circuits with a tiny triggering current of milli-amps which will not cause any problems with the bulb monitoring circuits, in fact I use mine to confirm that these monitoring circuits are indeed working, when mine is connected and powered up I can see the trailer lights and indicators flash momentarily, the current being sent through those on the car being too small to see any illumination. For me at least, and I know I am in a minority, when it comes to towing I rely on my experience, common sense and seat of the pants reactions, in terms of the wiring for me K.I.S.S. is the order of the day, this thread shows clearly what the downside of the extra complication to achieve these wonderfull sounding dynamic reactions that may only exist in written form. The last thing anyone wants when miles from home or in another country with a loaded trailer or caravan is to suddenly lose the lighting and indicators and to have a system so complicated that nobody can work on it or faultfind.

9 bar would suggest they are not cutting in but VCDS reports the pressures differently to a manifold guage, I think VCDS is absolute pressure and the guage is well, - guage pressure as you would expect!!!

The high & low side pressures are relative to the ambient temperature, the high side pressures that you have reported are reasonable and encouraging but are not worth much without knowing the consequent drop in the low side pressure and the ambient temperature. A set of guages for less than £30 are a very good investment, I have left mine and my manuals in France so cannot comment on the readings but all the info is out there on the net, be aware that most is written for an EM coupling type compressor and your one being a constant drive modulated one works differently. From memory mine in good working order would have 5 bar low & high side engine switched off at 20°c ambient, running the engine and putting the aircon on full cold high fan speed the high side would climb to 150psi and when the radiator fans cut in drop and stabilise to 100psi with the low side at about 3bar, sorry for mixing the units and they are all from memory so may not be spot on but the 150 and 100psi ones are as I wrote them down as being different to what most resources (for the clutch type compressors) say, when the charge was too low the fans did not cut in, do yours?

No, so you can rule out that possibility if you trust the garage.

Opening the bleed nipple releases the pressure then I would be looking at the brake servo and the master cylinder pushrod & linkage if applicable to ensure that it has free play, & that the pedal is returning to the correct height. Were you perhaps already on the brakes when you hit the pothole? Did the impact throw you forward & make you stand on the brakes?

Is that welded alloy intake plenum chamber standard?

Single mass flywheel instead of dual mass?

Sounds like the oil seal(s) on the turbo and the engine combusting its lubricating oil. The damage is probably restricted to a turbo replacement and clean up of the intake tract, that it started is a good sign despite the horrible noise, that will simply be combustion knock.

Mine too, if I remove the antenna for a car wash there is no radio reception.

That would be half of zero tools then unless you have to remove it from the inside in which case a 13mm socket, wrench and extension, you could even do it at a pinch with a single ring spanner. You dont even need a tool to bleed the clutch, you turn the knurled plastic bleed valve by hand let gravity do its job and watch the bubbles rise. They are BS'ing.

It's a miracle my car with its £110 towbar & electrics will even start the engine & get off the sloping driveway then, I am towing to Dunkerque & then on to Gatwick tomorrow, maybe I should have a Convoi Exceptionnelle escort with motorcycle outriders & flashing lights to warn all the other road users of the danger.

It will be "worn" and it will be BS. My chauffeur friend generally did his own maintenance but had the servicing done by the selling dealer during the warranty, on collecting the vehicle the invoice said "front & rear brake pads 75% worn" he asked to speak to the service manager and complained that it could not be true as he had recently replaced them himself, "ah but how many miles have you driven since?" was the response, he scratched his head & said well I did them last night & it took me 20 minutes to walk home after dropping the car off this morning so it would be between one and two miles 😳

Smart! Thanks for the info, next time I have one apart I will look for it.

Complete rubbish. I would not disagree that a decade earlier having 4 different worn FP series keys could get you into the majority of older Fords with worn locks with a bit of wiggling.