J.R.

Thanks, it wont show me a price as they do not deliver it to France, could you let me know how much it is for info, I could get someone to bring some over. Did it smell like anything special or just an industrial cleaning fluid?

No, I had left the UK 9 years before then. Good to see that the developers accepted responsability, the OP should be blaming the building owners and not VAG.

Buy an electronic battery load tester, if you input the correct AH rating and the testing regime used for the result it will give you a good idea of the remaining life expressed as a percentage, a percentage of what nobody knows 😁 it will automatically compensate for cell voltage. My experience of a decade with said tester is that if a vehicle is not a reluctant starter a battery with supposed 40% remaining life will crank it and start it in all 4 seasons without it feeling like its about to expire, assuming the battery is the correct size for the vehicle. What will be noticeable is the lack of autonomy (dont know th word in English) when the vehicle is not in regular use. I have a couple of older batteries for jump starting, my tipping trailer hydraulic pump etc, one (Bosch) has always had a low off charge cell voltage from new , its around the 12v of yours now yet that is the one with the most life and cranking power, I was concerned about it from day 1 yet it turns out to be the best and I probably did not even need to replace it. Your general rule which you keep repeating yet 99.9% of the charge cycles of every battery on every vehicle across the planet is the complete opposite of that. No problem with a 2 amp charger and no need to buy a bigger one which will spend most of its time at a low charge rate anyway but the day you have a flat battery and want to quickly recharge to put just enough juice in to start the vehicle and male your journey a more powerful charger is appreciated.

Off car meaning you removed the DPF? Is that easy, hard? I appreciate I have a different engine code. Does off car cleaning require special tools or just a brush, pressure washer etc? The video I watched looked like similar fluid injected into the flexible tube to the pre DPF port, it looked like a pressurised pot airline jobby, maybe a pressurised weedkiller or parafin blowlamp could be used. I'm just looking for guidance on what others have done, its heartening to hear it gave noticeable results.

Given the untruths the VAG temperature gauges display its possible that the temperature guage might rise visibly before the cooling fan cuts in. I dont know because in the 26 years I have been driving VAG diesels the cooling fan has never once cut in to reduce the coolant temperature, only for the air conditioning. That is probably more of a reflection that I have never been in a traffic jam since moving to France!!!!! Only a slight untruth, one time leaving the parking field for the Paris air show it was 20 minutes of crawling and one time an autoroute was closed due to an accident and again we crawled for 15 minutes to the exit, never ever come to a complete standstill for any length of time.

Never use a pressure bleeder on a concentric slave cylinder that is for sure. The cylinder is self bleeding, any air will rise to the bleed block AKA peak torque limiter, there is a void (think of an airspace in a flooded cavern) just underneath the thumbscrew bleed nipple, you open that and any air is expelled in a couple of seconds by the hydrostatic pressure from the reservoir. You are correct that there is no way to actually flush the fluid out of the slave cylinder. It won't unless you are a gorilla or a robotic actuator arm, the bleed nipple is a knurled plastic thumbscrew threaded into a plastic housing.

Try Output Tests on the reset switch, its probably something very simple like not making contact properly.

If all the heater speeds work correctly it does not need replacing but it should be secured in its correct position in the airflow. It is not a fire hazard if correctly located, the plastics are self extinguishing, there has been very little heat, the connector surround is untouched, a loose connector causes far more damage.

@b1ackb1rd Searching Google for DPF pressure info I came across a posting from you several years ago about the DPF cleaning you did, it seems you have been doing very short journeys for a very long time so you have done very well so far. It looks like my DPF has deteriorated a lot from not using a low SAPS oil (long story) can you share some of your wisdom and experience of your home DPF cleaning please?

Not me, they are the reason that I stopped renting to students at the Airbus factory who but for their total dependence on and love for their 70km/h unrestricted trottinettes were the best tenants that I had ever had. I had made covered and secure bike parking for them in the past but only one youth in the last decade was willing to and capable of riding the 2km into town, I made covered secure storage for their trottinettes with charging points plus EV charging points but they would all smuggle them into the building, up the stairs and into their appartements doing untold damage in the process. My concern above all was for the safety of all the occupants if a fire broke out, they didn't get it neither did their parents who paid the rent and who had indulged the children (the Lycée pro age was 16 -22) with dangerous, unsafe illegal E-scooters costing more than my car that they rode at 70kmh on the footpath/cycle path dressed in black hoodies pulled up restricting their vision using both hands on a mobile phone with speakers in their ears.

One journey of 12 miles a week will be enough to keep the DPF healthy is my experience after moving to a place where most journeys are 4km, if that does not suit then follow the advice to always allow the regens to complete but they wont actually start with cold engine unless the soot gets close to the service regen limit. My journeys now are the same 4km but with at least one 20km + 20km return journey per week, I have not noticed a regen happening or being interrupted for over a year, I did a VCDS scan today and it showed the soot at 15g (regen point is 22.5g) and the vehicle has covered 880 kms since the last regen, however I did do an 800km journey last Wednesday. My friends have just bought a pair of E-bikes, those and the trailer to carry them (they are 2m long!!!!) came to €14k and they got the trailer really cheap. I'm still using the bike I paid £25 for 34 years ago!

For a low biting point and dragging clutch absolutely!!!! Your clutch should not be condemned as ****ed unless that has been done. It crunches in reverse because you dont have synchromesh on reverse gear, if you wait a few seconds after pushing the clutch pedal down it may not crunch, if it still does then the dragging clutch will be wearing the synchromesh cones on all the forward gears so you should not wait too long to resolve the problem. Start with bleeding the hydraulics.

Yes, those type of videos are superb, no "HI GUYS!!!" etc and 90% irrelevant narcissistic chatter that I have to skip through oly to learn that I had zero to learn from the video. Now that the likes of Haynes manuals are extinct thanks to the internet there is an opportunity for someone to create on line workshop manuals using this format.

It's easy to do but I can see exactly where they are coming from, if you have a 6 speed gearbox it is not a question of will the clutch hydraulics fail but when? operating as they do they protect themselves from the "it was working fine until you bled the system" I would definitely bleed the clutch as well but in the position of a garage would refuse to do so.

The EGR should be inhibited during regeneration because it reduces the combustion temperature so whether coolant passes through the cooler or if the EGR valve is stuck open is of no consequence to overheating. Mmmmmm.................. Actually under that situation (valve blocked open) the engone coolant will have more heat to deal with but the cooling system has more than enough capacity, the fan not running should be investigated, I know it comes on after switch off but should it at idle with the vehicle stationary during regeneration?

The webpage says not to have it any bigger than half the screen width = 1/4 screen area because second windows open beside the first like in Measuring Blocks that I am trying to use, before you could have them full screen and overlapping in usual Windows fashion (cascade?) and minimise the list of parameters once you had made your choice so you could see the measurements, now if you minimise it it is lost and I am struggling to read the measurements in a tiny window. As Paul Calf would say its a bag O shoîte Another new and improved user experience 😒 This forum is the only one that has never created a massive negative experience for me after an upgrade!

Thanks, I did the same and found a Rosstech video, your link with the photos is a lot easier to follow.

Mon Dieu!!! Is that really a good deal? Our retail price £133.55. The discounted price offered to yourself is the lowest price we can sell this kit out for with all discounts applied. Looks like they are selling it at their retail price. I used to buy Quantum oil 20l at a time when TPS had it on promo, I also got filters at a much bigger discount than they gave me on parts across the board, they were only just more expensive than the cheapest Ebay Chinese ones. I know that I rarely replaced the air and pollen filters and the fuel filters hardly at all but a normal oil change with VAG filter used to cost me less than £30 using the bulk oil. I no longer come to the UK so have to buy oil from Germany and filters from China, I am at the €30 mark per service now.

The title should explain it, I have not used VCDS in a very long time, I did so today and realised why I stopped using it regularly, since the last forced software upgragde the VCDS window is tiny and only takes up less than 1/4 of my available screen space already reduced by all the Windows and Firefox guff, before you could click on the overlapping square icon to expand it to full screen, there seems no way to do so now. I have vision problems and simply cannot read it clearly any more, especially having to scroll through the thousands of unwanted parameters in measuring blocks to find the ones that I need, that is already a reduced window. When I plugged it in it asked me to download the latest version, I did not do so as that was likely to cause me even more problems, it can only complete with it connected to the car and with a Wifi signal which I dont have in the car park here, now that I want to install the latest version in the hope that it might cure the problem it no longer prompts me to do so and I cant find any menu option for it. Any help will be really gratefully received, I have to view a Yeti this weekend midway through an 800km trip and need to do a VCDS scan on it?

I see that TPMS was not mandatory until 2012 but I suspect that if it was factory fitted and I very much doubt yours was an option then it has to be working for an MOT, whilst I may at times find it a PITA its because I have a slow puncture so it's timely reminders keep me and others safe. How can you disable it? Well if it had a seperate control module then you could unplug it and delete it from the installation list, I have done this with my Bluetooth module but strongly advise against doing it for TPMS, if you are determined then you have to find the module which controls the function, probably ABS or instrument cluster then change the long coding to remove that option, again I do not advise anybody to do this. Have you put them to the test or are you relying on no warning lights? Have you driven beyond the cars limits and skidded (not advised) have you done a full on ABS stop? I had a problem with low battery voltage causing communication errors with the ABS module on my Octavia2, no ABS warning came up but I did a test in a safe area, all 4 wheels locked very early on and there was so much over servo assistance that it was difficult to modulate the pedal properly. Years ago when the road was (to me) my personal racetrack the ABS on my XR4x4 Sierras would cut in several times a day, I have matured and could not tell you the last time the ABS cut in, probably over a year ago hence why I test it, as for the ASR etc when it cuts in my eyes are on the road not the dashboard, unless I have made a severe misjudgement you cannot even feel it cut in, you have to look at the dash, I oly have vision in one eye and hence a narrower field of vision, others may be aware of their ASR light winking while watching the road ahead.

You can also view the wheel speeds (read from the ABS sensor in real time, I take the computer to the wheel and spin it, the wheel that is!!!

When my wheel speed sensor was intermittent it would reset after driving away, when it had failed completely it did as your vehicle is doing.

Apologies, I see now that you have run a VCDS scan, I would go into output tests and check that the reset switch output is being seen.

Faulty ABS sensor causes exactly what you describe. You say there are no other faults, on what basis? Maxidot display? OBDII reader? VCDS or equivalent scan? You should be more concerned with fixing a fault rendering several safety critical systems disabled (ABS, ESP, ASC etc) than disabling a warning light to get a bent MOT. If you were able to disable the light it should still fail the MOT because they look for the absence of safety critical warning lights during the self test when ignition turned on.

I did say that I found the temperature surprising but that's what it will have been. Read my previous comments regarding building glazing and magnifying glasses. I will rely on common sense and my knowledge of materials science rather than swallow your version of "The real truth" As your parts are now irreparably damaged why dont you heat some samples of them in an oven to find out "the real truth"? Where do you get your claim that VAG saved $22 per vehicle? A cheaper supplier does not mean that they used cheaper plastics to manufacture the part, the melting point of a specified thermosplastic, (and VAG will have specified exactly what plastic it should be,) does not vary with the price paid for said plastic. I think you are just having a public tantrum and saying "this should not happen" and I agree with you, but the fault is not with VAG, their vehicles can be left for a week at a time unshaded in the Sahara desert, the fault is with the architects.