J.R.

Do you have Climatronic and are your reversing lights working? Climatronic switches to recirculating air when reversing to prevent exhaust fumes from entering the cabin, the same can be said for clutch smells or DPF regen smells.

The only likely damage would be a kink and maybe some metal ground off the bottom of the disk backplate, also bodywork damage to the wheelarch but you would have mentioned that. Regarding the pulling to one side, highly unlikely from losing a wheel at 10 mph, you have not said what the work was that was carried out, that could be a more likely suspect. "pulling to the left more than it was" is the clue. Have a suspension alignment check done and if it throws up anything then the garage would I'm sure correct it and refund the alignment cost, as for the comments about legal action and gross negligence, have neither of you ever made a mistake working on your own vehicle or doing your employed job? I have lost count of how many of my wheels have overtaken me, flown over the sunroof or parted company over the years and that was without being distracted every few minutes by phone calls from customers or requests from colleagues.

0.3 to 0.6 bar? 😕 One or the other, - but both?

The OE unit is located in the LH rear corner behind the boot trim, if your noise was coming from the front then you have an aftermarket towing relay like I do, it has either been located at the front, unlikely due to the long cable runs or it has an extension sounder circuit, mine is in the relay and only just audible from the rear.

The idle pressure reading after a regen seems reasonable but the one at 2.5K rpm seems very high, I cant be sure until I have checked mine again or looked for the sheet of paper where I recorded previous tests but my gut feeling is that it is high for a DPF that has just been regenned.

Special greases are just page 21 of Service Receptionist Bull***t 101. Rubber to metal bonded bushes were invented 100 years ago to be lubrication and maintenance free, they should never under any circumstances be oiled or greased. Now I know that VAG have a TPI telling dealers to slather problematic noisy suspension bushes in grease but it is a total bodge to cover up the excess articulation allowing metal to metal contact which causes the noise, grease will only stop it for a few miles before it rubs through or washes away. I doubt that they will replace them unless they would fail an MOT and the new ones would be noisy again in short order.

I'm sure you are but you don't sound very appreciative of the sacrifice he is making for you (and the rest of us) Pete 🤣

As much as I really wanted to watch the video his voice and presentation style made that impossible despite giving him the benefit of the doubt and not stopping the video after the "Whatsup Guys!" in the first 2 seconds

As I often make mistakes regarding the Fabia through assuming that it has the same systems and equipment as other vehicles then someone like @Breezy_Pete may correct what I have written regarding the AC control module and the compressor modulating valve, from your description of the test light it sounds like you may have a clutch controlled compressor.

The aircon compressor is commanded by the AC control module not the body control module. You need to interrogate the AC control module using VCDS or similar, when the AC stops it should show a compressor shut down code in measuring blocks, if it is showing the compressor still being commanded then its a wiring problem or a faulty modulating valve. My guess is that the shut down code will be for de-icing of the expansion nozzle the blockage having caused the high side pressure to shoot up, this will be due to water vapour in the refrigerant gas probably through not vacuuming down the system for the required 30 minutes before refilling. PAG oil should be green and I have never seen anything but virgin green non contaminated oil when stripping down a compressor, if the PAG oil is contaminated then the expansion valve might be clogged with schmoo.

Lots of waffle none of which has any relevance to the problem the OP has. @somean49 have you made any progress?

I think I paid about £18 for a top mount and bearing including delivery, the bearing alone was not much cheaper so not worthwhile aside from when I had to replace the one that failed.

Yet you are comparing prices for the top mounts. If the damping of your existing struts is in any way compromised or if there is any sign of leakage its definitely worth changing them at the same time. My experience is that the top mounts do not significantly deteriorate but the bearings, a seperate part although often bundled with the mount, frequently fail resulting in a knocking noise when turning the steering wheel. I have only ever used the cheapest pattern parts available (usually Ebay) for the last 2 decades on the steering and suspension of 3 Skodas, only one problem once with a top mount bearing which failed prematurely, the myriad others and its replacement were all fine and they were all a considerable saving, the struts on the Yeti were under £30 including delivery from Ireland. Springs I have only ever used Lesjofors but would be happy with Kilen as its the same product from the same factory and both are reasonably priced. If I were paying a mechanic to do the work and if I were able to supply the parts (not a chance in this country!) then maybe I would consider paying more for percieved piece of mind, as it is my time has no cost and having to replace one faulty pattern part in 50 years I can live with.

Plausible, it probably has a generator set on board sharing the vehicles fuel. What does Elon drive?

I have my own °°° thanks! That was the Three Degrees by the way! Is there not a degree symbol on a qwerty keyboard?

Throttle response different, engine sound gruff, high idle speed, gear change indicator telling driver to select a lower gear under certain conditions when it would normally not do so (driving at 50kph in 5th or 6th gear) or the DSG doing so unbidden, radiator fan running at shutdown is the most obvious sign but that is of an interrupted regen.

The first anomaly you noticed is the sliding sleeve water pump retracting at the set temperature allowing water to be pumped through the cooling system, the second one is the thermostat operating normally. Neither are in fact anomalies.

In which case its me who should apologise for not reading attentively.

You have not even mentioned what your engine type and fuel is in your profile or the posting, as such it is very difficult to advise you.

You have the best car on the forum in my book!

Remove the drain coc k completely, drain all the oil out, dont worry or confuse yourself about how much came out, your concern should be did all the oil come out, I shall assume you drained it on a level surface, if you are unsure add a little bit of fresh oil while the drain coc k is removed, it should dribble out within a couple of minutes. The refill to a little less than the specified capacity if its 3.5 litres then fill with 3 litres, wait a few minutes and check the dipstick, if all is well then it will be in the middle of the hatched area or a little less, you can then top up bit by bit to the correct level allowing time for the oil to drain down to the sump each time. If the dipstick level is implausible then investigate why before adding any more oil or running the engine/ Some other observations: The flexible pipes that come with the suction kits are coiled in manufacture and transport and will never become straight, as you push them down the twisty dipstick tube they curl up, you cannot feel when they hit the bottom and they either dont reach it or curl up wit the end sitting higher, each way you cannot drain the whole contents. I use copper brake and fuel pipes, or for my current vehicle which has an odd bore a copper hydraulic pipe, I have to manipulate and form it to get it all the way down and when I think it is there I pull it up and down tapping the bottom of the sup listening for the confirmation noise, then I drain until it makes the milkshake straw slurping noise. When I replace the filter I use the same rod to drain the bottom of the housing (mine is an inverted filter like most) poking it down the 2 galleries, I get an extra 0.5l out this way and usually end up refilling with the specified quantity although I do it by the dispstick readings as above. The dipstick when replaced should be pushed down firmly until you see and feel a positive click, if not then the level reading will be incorrect and you will add too much oil, it took me a couple of years before I realised. Finally only ever take notice of how much oil you have added after being sure that you have fully drained the sump disregard how much you "think" you have drained out, it is irrelevant, use the dipstick for getting the final precise level after confirming that its indication is plausible with regard to how much oil you have put in.

I'm even lazier, or I like to think not sheep like, if someone trots out rubbish then I challenge it, I have no desire to search out where they read what they swallowed and regurgitated. They were your words Graham, how hard would it be for you ever to say even to yourself (because as sure as eggs is eggs you would never on the forum) I was wrong, I should have asked myself if what I read/watched was plausible before repeating it verbatim.

I agree 100% The mystery for me is why the OP believes the engine is overfilled after draining and refilling with 1.5 litres.

I'm not sure and you have me doubting myself now, I think maybe the oil pressure warning is inhibited at lower revs and only operates above 1500rpm, modern engines with low viscosity oils dont develop or need any significant pressure at low revs. On my race engines aside from always having an oil pressure guage I would always fit a higher pressure oil switch as most would have the light come on at tickover when at operating temperature.

That engine oil is very very new. On a diesel engine if the oil is not black then its new or not oil at all! I'm confused now as your profile shows a 1.9 engine hence diesel but the thread title is 1.8 T In either case the oil is very recent.