J.R.

Nothing can beat an original Polo, I've had several and a few were real schnorrers with stratospheric mileage, the engines still sounded like a sewing machine and delivered their full beans, they were very very nippy compared to say an 850 mini or 950 Fiesta but you had to rev the nuts off them to appreciate it.

Definitely worth doing, be aware of a few things................ The aim is to get the torsion value to zero by small adjustments to what everyone incorrectly refers to as a vernier pulley, VCDS will only report a narrow range of torsion value, say 0 to 2° in 0.1° increments, a guess for an example as I cannot recall what units are used and being VCDS they are unlikely to make any sense. Outside of the reported range it will show zero degrees which is a false positive, you will think it is spot on but actually is outside of limits. It is possible to adjust it to zero degrees but you need the patience of a saint and the hands of a surgeon, even the smallest of adjustments will throw it out of limits and display a false zero "spot on" reading, the way to confirm a true zero reading is to rev the engine, the zero becomes a + or - reading as the belt stretches with centrifugal force. The +ve and -ve figures make no sense to me but hey its VCDS!!!! advanced cam timing shows as a negative torsion value. Make timing marks on the pulley and flange relative positions before you start, even a small adjustment can take the value to a false zero and stop the engine from running, very easy to do if you do it intuitively and advance the cam timing to correct a -ve torsion value, you end up making it even more negative with VCDS showing a false zero "spot on" reading, after patting yourself on the back the engine will not start making the timing marks means you can go back to the starting point. Were the vernier pulley to be an actual rather than misnamed one then the procedure would be very simple and easy.

Any high current circuit will overheat like that if a connection is not tight without blowing a fuse, the current drawn is actually less due to the extra resistance of the loose connection. Loose connections are the cause of most electrical fires, short circuits are relatively safe events if the circuit is fuse protected. The cable hasn't melted through carrying too much current, were that the case it would have melted throughout its whole length, it is conducted heat from the resistance (and arcing at higher voltages) at the loose connection

Hear-hear, wishing you a good recovery and enjoyable festive season.

Quite right, you don't want to end up laterally fried to death! But if you must go out and lock yourself in your car next to a blazing EV make sure to turn around slowly like a rotisserie to avoid being fried on one side only

Hearing the radio or an incoming voicecall are right at the bottom of my list of audio preferences when driving. At the top would be to hear the sirens of emergency vehicles, the noise of a skidding vehicle outside of my field of vision, drivers of other vehicles using their horns correctly to warn me of their presence, any abnormal mechanical noises from my vehicle, warning tones from the dashboard etc etc.

I am hopefully soon chnaging to a LHD Yeti, from a RHD I carry my wallet in my right rear pocket, the drivers seat is unworn on the new vehicle, I have worn through the bolster on my previous RHD Skodas including the current Yeti If I am lucky the change will stop the wear.

I didn't understand what you were saying in that posting but I do now

Too much waffle and denial to read plus all the photos of vintage vehicles, my question remains unanswered. do you really believe that buses and coaches, current ones not museum exhibits, do not have petrol gauges? This is the 3rd time asked either answer it or let your silence speak, spare us the waffle. The question (still unanswered) was do you believe the sweeping statement you made, I have travelled on buses and coaches the world over and the majority would have had fuel gauges, you seem to have forgotten that your statement included coaches. do you really believe that buses and coaches, current ones not museum pieces

Good luck with finding that! 😁 A good example of "easier said than done"!

When a syncromesh ring becomes worn the first thing that happens is the gear is difficult to engage, the mechanism baulks hence the name baulk ring, if the gearchange is forced enough times the baulk ring wears enough that it no longer baulks but crunches the gear engagement damaging the syncro hub splines and the teeth on the driven gear. The 6 speed gearboxes have twin syncro rings for each gear and are pretty bulletproof, maybe even some of the 5 speed boxes. I would reset the gear linkage cables, easy to do and costs nothing but a little time.

Us idiots took exception to your insults which continue despite the apathy we have developed towards you.

But you made no mention of historic or vintage vehicles, you stated: The thing with buses and coaches is that they don't even have a fuel gauge. My question was do you really believe what you stated? I still dont believe you.

I have driven several historic cars without fuel gauges but that would not make me claim "The thing with buses and coaches is that they don't even have a fuel gauge"

You will just have to search through the thousands of listed parameters most of which will be for other vehicles, the parameter is called injector deviation or something very similar, if it comes up as invalid look further and you will find other measuring blocks with the same or similar wording, one of which will be correct for your engine. I find VCDS very frustrating to use especially searching through measuring blocks which often have incorrect descriptions, there are so many to scroll through and the typeface is tiny now the program takes up only a tiny part of the screen space. I'm not actually sure what "deviation" means, there are flow return measurements as well, I think the individual injector opening times can be varied according to their characteristics so they can all pass the same amount of fuel. If anyone knows this subject well could they start a seperate thread? It's something people dont look at until they know they have a problem but I would be interested in doing any balancing of the injectors pro-actively for the fuel saving and to keep an eye on things if one injector seems to be changing over time, that way it can be replaced before it becomes a problem. Good luck with your efforts Pete, please inform us of what you learn.

Do you really believe that sweeping statement? Is there some law against the manufacturers fitting one?

That happens whenever you disconnect a battery on one of our vehicles unless you use a plug in standby power source.

So what you observed is 100% normal for a stop/start car, you simply misinterpreted it, you would never see the charging voltage rise above that figure with a new battery which will have been charged to 100% and maybe lost a little while in stock but no way down to the 80% that the BMS will try to discharge it to. Thats something else you are making up to suit your misguided belief. There is a probably 0.6v error in your voltage readings through multimeter error and volt drop from the engine running and all the canbus controllers etc as the battery is not charging, - you were right about that but not your conclusion as to why. A new battery delivered through a modern short supply chain will never have less than 90% S.O.C.

TPS is the VAG parts distribution chain to all the independant garages and mechanics, it's likely that the bolts you bought from the dealer will have been supplied by TPS, dealers carry zero stock these days aside from regular service items for their workshops, oils, filters, brake pads etc.

They might have cost more than I recall, it was not my money I was spending and we were just relieved that they had them in stock and delivered within the hour. I really miss TPS now I no longer visit the UK.

My MK2 Octavia was sold to me for spares after the owners could not face the annual bills to get the vehicle through the MOT because of said airbag warning light which would always reappear a few days later, they had paid out thousands over the years including having the airbag replaced, well thats what the invoice said, I found it had not been touched. After making a decent job of their bodged joining of the wires to remove the connector (they are troublesome) I was still getting the warning light from time to time, on tracing the wiring throughout its length I found the extra connector in the seat frame which was responsable.

That is implausible, perhaps you drew the wrong conclusion. 12.2v is the voltage which a the battery (mis)management system of a stop start vehicle would maintain the state of charge to allow regenerative charging, it is also the voltage that someone would measure taking a multimeter reading across the battery terminals without realising that they need to force a shut down of the active canbus controllers by manually closing the bonnet catch, locking the car then waiting 20 minutes before taking a true reading without the volt drop of all the active controllers.

Did you fit the hardened circular spreader plates under the heads of each pair of driveshaft bolts? The splined bolts and speader plates I bought from TPS when my neighbours car did the same thing did not cost anywhere near what yours did, I wasn't paying so was not concerned but would have challenged them if they wanted that much.

Yellow connector under seat,might be tucked into a void under the carpet inside the seat rails. There may be another unknown to many connector between the seat frame and lower foam squab if fixing the first one does not resolve matters. Do you carry rear seat passengers? Those with big feet that like to stretch out?

The glowplugs could only hypothetically affect tickover in the couple of minutes after a cold start, absolute maximum more likely to be a few seconds. If your vehicle has had the emissions fix then the throttle valve is likely to be completely crudded up, that would be my first port of call.