J.R.

Sounds perfectly reasonable to me, so long as it maintains that temperature under load, idling in a traffic jam on a hot day etc you have nothing to worry about. Modern petrol engines run at higher cylinder block temperatures for greater efficiency, the reason for the kidology with the temperature guage is that there is still far too much guff given out in an autoritative manner that has not been relevant for over 6 decades, the days before pressurised cooling systems, many people still believe that the engine will boil over at 100°c because that is what they have been told or have read. Do your cooling fans often cut in? In Northern Europe they rarely do, mine havn't in 30 years, in the Australian climate I would expect them to be working from time to time but not to drop the coolant temp below the figure you have recorded.

The DPF readings show that the measured soot is very low, although it should not be negative but the calculated is high, over the regen threshold, as it triggers on the calculated and not the measured reading that is why your car is constantly trying to regen, the fumes given off are fairly noxious and that is why you are smelling them in the cabin, also the bodies defence mechanisms put you on high alert when you smell fire (or hear the roar of a predator) thereafter just a whiff is enough to trigger your reaction. Its possible that someone may have tried to remove the DPF or have it in some way disabled via a software patch and it has gone awry, the negative measured soot reading is implausible, at the very least the differential pressure sensor will need the adaption routine running to create the correct calibration offset.

The vehicle thinks the rear tailgate is unlocked, I get that frozen display when I carry long building materials projecting out the rear, the solution for me is to close the locking pawl manually with a screwdriver blade or whatever I have to hand, even the ignition key in extremis. You should test your vehicle by doing the same, I'm guessing it will not register that you have closed the latch, so either the lock microswitch has failed (did you say it had been replaced? there is too much guff above for me to read through) or you have the common problem of a fractured wire(s) in the door loop, unclip and retract the gaiter to inspect them and repair any broken ones, ask or search the forum for details of the repair. I am fairly confident your problem is one of those two, I appreciate that with the frozen display you are lacking so much information, my car being RHD the only way I can see my speed in kms is via the Maxidot.

I see what you mean! 😕 What the hell does the above mean? You can drive a powerful motorbike (above 35kw and 0.2kw/kg) and you can drive a less powerful one if its engine came from a vehicle of more than double the power 🙄 So you can drive a Hayabushyfanni but not a little scooter unless it has a Hayabushifanni engine with 2 cylinders removed?

I think its way too slow for that, you can hear the frequency of the idle RPM in the video, most of the general clattering is following that, there is also valvetrain noise at half that frequency, harder to distinguish as its synchronised with (masked by) with the RPM clatter, the knocking is very distinct and much slower, its a different sound to but the same frequency as my vacuum pump noise.

Just as well really, that would need to be parked in a triple width garage, maybe even a quadruple width one to be able to open the doors to get out.

A very very good price for the supply and fitting of a clutch, DMF and gearbox oil change, others have paid well over £1000, ive seen £1700 mentioned several times.

Not engine speed nor half engine speed (camshaft). Could it be the crankshaft driven vacuum pump? Yes I realise that would imply a frequency corresponding with engine speed but I have heard recordings of that making that noise, mine make a waah-waahing noise and at that frequency.

Was that and the following postings your idea of short? I see you managed to go off on your usual lengthy diatribe about battery charging in most of them, that and all your other obsessions were totally irrelevant to the OP's questions about forced or active particulate filter regeneration. Once again any useful responses to a new posters query become swamped by irrelevant guff, it's noticeable that you frequently choose new members to subject to this.

On the positive side it is almost certain that you will be immune from speed cameras, traffic light cameras congestion charge fines etc. Whilst your car registration does not exist to the insurers it will exist on the above ANPR camera systems with what is effectively a get out of jail free marker against the registration saying "no action to be taken" diplomatic vehicles, undercover police etc, MI5 MI6 etc vehicles are all given this marker. In a previous life I was drinking after work with my clients from the Traffic Control Systems Unit of Transport for London, the congestion charge was just coming in and we were discussing these exempt vehicles, I jokingly asked the guy if he could enter my registration plate on the system and to my surprise he was considering it, it could be done, then my closest friend amongst them wisely pulled him into line saying that the fallout were it to be discovered would be immense. Your car sounds like a keeper!!!!!

Precisely what he said, you can put the engine under load quicker in icy conditions. It is also much quicker (less engine wear) to get the heater working than waiting indoors leaving the engine idling to defrost the screens and warm the interior. Given your climate an engine pre-heater might be the best solution for your needs?

I like your username, do you know what une salope means in French 😀

You know that or you have heard it repeatedly trotted out as received wisdom based on practices of 50 years ago? My experience is that engine life is maximised through the shortest warm up time with the engine under load and not idling, I'm not talking about driving away flat out from a cold start but engines are run in under load on a dyno and never left to warm up at idle speed. Modern engine longevity owes a lot to the use if heated front and rear screens in winter.

I find that most modern cars are like that especially those with electric vacuum pumps, when you think about it there are so many other vacuum actuators and leaky pipes. I only get one press on the pedal with very little assistance before having to man up! I was towed in mine yesterday and had to use the brakes and steering without assistance, the former braking both vehicles to keep the rope taut (we are supposed to use a solid towbar here), it was OK, brakes a little better than I expected, the electric power steering was as heavy as expected but loads up even more if you turn it at anything more than very slowly, I prefer a hydraulic system unassisted as it feels like normal steering but with big sticky tyres.

"Breathing space" 'Re-imagine strategy" "exuberant, compelling and disruptive brand" "Lets reposition the brand to hark back to our glory days" (reworded) Those will go down in history as Jaguars famous last words and will be required reading for MBA courses etc.

Sounds like a concentric slave cylinder and it will be that at fault, your symptoms described it drawing in air though the O ring joint between the two plastic parts but I did not know if Fabias used a concentric one or not. Definitely wise to replace the clutch at the same time given the labour involved despite my comments on them being capable of doing very high mileages.

I did 325000 miles on the original clutch, I have known others do more than half a million, I have alsoknown other people wear out clutches on all their vehicles in less than 3 years, it all depends on the driver. Years ago few clutches were capable of the mileages that most modern ones are in the right hands.

I experienced regens every 200km or less and was frequently forced to extend my journey or go straight back out again after returning home and switching off hearing the fans running to allow the regen to complete, if not it would be trying on every subsequent journey even from cold which was crackers. Concerned about the wasted fuel, the bore wash and oil dilution I paid to have the "emissions fix" rolled back to the previous "cheating" software. My car now regens every 1000km on the dot, the only way I know it has happened or when it will happen is through VCDS measuring blocks, I have heard the fans running after shutdown just once in the last 3 years, a coincidence that it was doing the 1000km regen when I stopped. It doesn't even change the engine note when regenning like it did before.

You are going to make a mess if you try topping the gearbox up through that! Never top up something unless you know how to judge the correct level. You cannot "check" the gear linkages as you describe, there is a resetting procedure which is very simple to follow, basically you lock of the gearlever with a suitable pin - drill bit, nail, Allen key anything the right size then you pull back some plastic locking collars on the gear cables allowing them to adopt the correct length then push the collars back, job done! Its something that should be done after gearbox removal but usually isn't as most times the gears engage properly as indeed yours did initially.

In my case it was VCDS that was correct! My pal referred to my VCDS as cloned VAG software, I corrected him saying it was the paid for version of VCDS and not the Ebay clones with a CD, he has Russian clone software for his Fords. Your comments beg the quest is VCDS supported or approved by VAG or have they copied/cloned the VAG software? Was Vagcom official VAG software?

Accidentally scrape the corner of the sticker so that the 0.8 is either removed or becomes illegible dependant on your relationship with the tester take it back to him/her or elsewhere for another MOT test, they would then have to use the higher default test limit from what others have said. I dont know if that is what is supposed to happen as I have had but one car MOT tested in the UK (to be legal driving it to the ferry) in 20 years but logic tells me that accidental damage to the sticker is the smart thing to do.

When you have a bulb warning light and the Vehicle status on Maxidot tells you it is LH side light and VCDS gives a fault code for LH tail light which would you believe when they are all working and the warning is intermittent but has been going on for over a year? My natural instinct was to distrust VCDS, most if the terms used bear no relation to what the should describe, units of measure are all over the place, it is very shonky IMO. Well it turned out that the Maxidot was the liar, I had not appreciated that there are two tail light bulbs in each cluster, they are hidden behind a red cover that looks just like an LED array, one of mine was not working yet when you look at the lights together on a dark night they are both equally bright. I looked at another Yeti yesterday for another French Briskoda member, he had exactly the same intermittent dash warning light problem for years, the same Vehicle Status report for the sidelight and the same fault code for the tail light, the LH one as well, he also had one blown bulb. Something to look for if it happens to you, I hope it helps someone.

If you run the CR TDi engine out of fuel you cannot prime the system using the ignition key on post 2009 vehicles, it has to be done via an Adaptation channel on VCDS. This is because there are 3 fuel pumps, the tank lift pump, the transfer pump after the fuel filter and the engine driven mechanical injection pump. The 2 electric pumps can be run from Output Tests but to bleed the fuel system they both need to be running at the same time or the fuel filter would run dry when running the second pump, hence the Initial Fuel Filling procedure. All the videos show it as channel 35 but that is an older VCDS version, on mine I eventually found it as IDE00470-ENG9891-Initial fuel filling. Trouble is it just will not run at all, you have to input a filling time, it says 1-3 digits, units are maked as s (seconds I assume) I chose 60 as thats what the videos did, then I had to input a fuel level, units L and again 1-3 digits, does this mean how much fuel is in the tank?? VCDS knows anyway. I selected 7 litres as thats what measuring blocks showed the fuel level to be after filling with the jerrycan, it refused to operate and gave a message in red ERROR: Conditions not correct or request sequence error. I added more fuel and tried again using the 17 litres which VCDS then indicated was in the tank, same problem, same message. No matter what numbers I put it it would not run at all. I towed the car home and was going to manually activate the relays but one was inaccessible and behind the dash, I then ran the tank pump for 45 second then the transfer pump for 30 seconds and repeated the cycle 5 times finishing with another 45 seconds of the tank pump. The engine did not star immediately but after 30 seconds I could see the injector line pressure start to rise to the regulated pressure and the engine started. I had been running the pumps one at a time where it broke down and I reckon I did not allow it to crank long enough, I was being overly cautious for fear of pump and system damage which I now realise is an old wives tale, back at home I could verify that the filter bowl was full etc. Has anyone managed to make this nonsense routine actually do what it is supposed to do and run both the electric fuel pumps simultaneously?

I finally pushed my running my tank down to the last drop too far, I have in the past deliberately run my TDi's out to see just how far they go beyond an indicated empty tank and zero mile remaining, and its a very very long way! With the CR engine and the reports of fuel pumps disintegrating, swarf circulating around the system, having to replace the entire fuel system, pumps, lines, injectors etc at great cost I never pushed my luck too far, the closest I had got was down the the last 0.5 litre coming off an autoroute. Yesterday I drove 800km and had to stop for 5 hous=rs halfway so it was a very long day, I made the journey the week before with a tiny bit remaining from a tank, coming back the autoroute was fogbound, I missed my exit to the N10 so had to continue on the A10, a longer route via Bordeaux, it was however safer there as the traffic tends to disperse the fog. I did the mental calcs and it was going to be very tight, not the first time for me, I reckoned I could make it home and just have enough for the 4 km to the filling station today, there was a classic car meeting going on beside it so instead of driving into the fuel pumps I parked up 300m further on and took in the cars and bikes in the 15° sunshine, well worth it, I saw for the first time ever a Shelby Daytona Coupé not only that it had driven there! It thundered on the way out. My Yeti would not restart when I finally went to fill up, I had gone 300m too far 😀 Today has been a frustrating day trying to purge the fuel system and its 3 pumps using the useless as usual VCDS which refused to run the initial filling procedure (both electric pumps running) I had to be towed home and frig around for ages (I will create a topic) but it eventually started. I had been very concerned about running the pumps when dry and the amount of time the engine was cranking without fuel but I am pleased to have disproved the recieved wisdom, no damage was done whatsoever. Everyone that I have known over the years who has run dry a VAG CR diesel and been towed to a garage ahs ended up being charged thousands of Euros to replace the whole fuel injection system, 6 or 7 if not more and have heard the same thing about many others, there's no doubt that had my car been towed to the closest garage (which is what all the breakdown policies do even if you are 100m from home) then the same would have happened, they are on a kickback from the garages, no matter what a vehicle is recovered for other than say a puncture they are given a quote for mega money and end up losing their vehicle if they can't pay.

Yes please, the pressure drop across my DPF is too high and I will have to do something about it.