J.R.

Thanks for the correction, that was indeed what I experienced on the MK2 Octavia. The Yeti threw yet another LH sidelight warning this evening.

Your vehicle does not have a chassis. You either have a lot more faith or are even more of a risk taker than me to have jacked up the car directly underneath the rotten area! That it has not collapsed suggests there remains ample strength and welding in a new section of sill and the wing bottom will make a good repair. Entirely saveable but if you do not have the skills to DIY I doubt that you will consider the price being asked by a garage worth it compared to the cars value. 4 decades ago many people like myself were doing 6 repairs like that most weekends for very little money on MOT failures and it was an annual thing for owners.

Do you have the Maxidot display? That will indicate which bulb is presumed to be faulty. Common causes are the foglight bulb contacts wearing away the solder on the bulb, I believe a specific uncommon bulb type should be fitted although I may be confused and that is the rear light bulbs, in any case it causes intermittent bulb warnings. I get one for the front left sidelight bulb and have never traced the cause.

Kinetiq wireless no battery switches and recievers, superb quality, many permutations available, I have used 'and continue to use) loads of them, very good for creating 2 way switching where the wiring is not in place for such. Available direct or through Ali-Express often a bit cheaper but they cost buttons for what they do.

Wisdom? Hmmm......................... No, I'm afraid I cannot offer you that level so will abide by your request, good luck with solving your problem.

It's the word that your neighbours would use if they make a mistake thinking that the coast is clear to for them to open their bonnet to check the fluid levels! I bet they phone around their Whatsapp group first!!!

Ian; Why did you change from the spoked wheels, - tinworm?

There should be a Viz character of you and your battery charging multi-meter carrying antics! I bet the AA man you accosted (when you once again just happened to be carrying a multi-meter to visit your wife at here work) refuses call outs from your area now.

The other sign on higher output/higher revving engines is very loud knocking/clattering at high revs, like the sound the tractor pulling rigs make before they explode 😁 The 105hp engine probably wont rev that high, mine was pretty silent, no signs of any DMF problem until I had it remapped then it sounded alarming at wide open throttle high rpm but silent when driven normally. When I changed the DMF during the clutch slave cylinder job it was and remains refined at all rev ranges.

I'm not sure if the narrower 6.5j rim was homologated for the Yeti. If thats the case it would cause a problem in my country but I doubt anyone would think to check the rim width if the correct tyres were fitted.

Yes, low revs under slight load, barely any throttle opening can exacerbate DMF rattle, usually in the higher gears though, say slowing to 30mph, an old DMF has you changing down earlier than you might otherwise but it gives it an easier time. If you have just done some work then theres a good chance it may be related so for you thats a good thing. You can usually feel a failing DMF by kickback through the clutch pedal under certain conditions.

Good to see that you are still enjoying life in the saddle, long may it last

You have owned and presumably driven 30 EU5 and later diesel engined vehicles? How often do you change your cars?

Who on this forum has denied the theft of cable? Not responding to your comments (or anybodies) is not strange.

It has to be number 4. Number 3 is theoretically possible but would need the thieves to return at the right time and to take the exact amount without knowing how much was in the tank. She is filling someone elses vehicle or using their receipts. I paid my for my fathers fuel in his retirement, he had an additional fuel card on my company account, the daughter of his 2nd wife would con her mother taking her shopping filling up with fuel on the way then claiming she had forgotten her bank card so I paid for her fuel and her mother paid for her shopping leaving my father very depressed and anxious. I dealt with that situation at the time, when my father died I continued to pay for my stepmothers fuel but it suddenly shot up as stepsister was up to her old tricks again at which point I deactivated the card.

No problem on a petrol engined vehicle, a little residual diesel in the injection system will only serve to lubricate things, its a different matter when its a common rail diesel with petrol sloshing around. Plenty of ways to get rid of petrol laced with a bit of diesel, 4 stroke petrol engined lawn mowers and 2 stroke strimmers cutters etc are all happy recipients or you can add some to every tank refill of an older diesel vehicle, I got rid of 40 litres like that. I would be reticent to dose it into the tank refills of a modern petrol or diesel engine for fear of contamination a DPF GPF or catastrophic convertor.

I dont know for sure but that is a likely candidate for a manufacturers part sold by a specialist for far more than the price from a main dealer or TPS.

No. I still cannot understand why you think that cars registered in Scotland being recharged in Scotland should be indicative of anything other than the obvious.

Not sure what I am supposed to keep up with, there is so much written, so many "strongly recommend you watch this video" etc that there would not be enough hours in the day. I do not understand how you can be surprised or even make anything of the fact that after spending your valuable time trawling back through Ootoheres photographs you find that cars charging at charging stations in Scotland were first registered in Scotland

Equally unbelievable that it was (presumably) only doing 150 miles to a tank of fuel before (Fuel consumption tripled after service.) I thought the Octavia fuel tank capacity was 60 litres. My MK1 and MK2 both were 60 litres.

Yes and even with it fully charged at 13.3 volts it would drop below 11 volts when cranking. You will not be able to start the car - see above.

So does it pull to one side or not? People cannot answer your questions when they have been given contradictory information.

Not indicative of a fractured AC pulley shear plate then, the alternator pulley one way sprag clutch is still a possibility, you need to look and see if the belt is flailing.

They did not have to, they could have left it hanging like I did but they may have done, I think they left it in place and the subsequent alignment "specialists" have adjusted both track rod ends equally, not changing the toe in but trying to get the wheel central when driving. He was lucky and is incorrect, there is a massive amount of clearance by design so that the subframes can be set up correctly in the factory and after accident repairs allowing for the body tolerances, I thought that I had got mine back in the same position, it was not far out but the result was the same as you have, an undriveable vehicle that would only go in a straight line with applying counter steering force and if hands free would dive off the road very quickly. What I did not know then is that they make a special tool to ensure the subframe is replaced in the exact same position, most people incorrectly describe it as a centralising tool.

On a starter motor solenoid, what could possibly go wrong! 😁