J.R.

How many miles has the car done since the lockdown and over how many driving cycles? By that I mean for example the car has done 200 miles, 10 trips of 10 miles to the supermarket and 10 miles back. Even a new battery will have lost its charge over that period if the car has not been used enough and for long enough journeys to put back what was taken out to start it and replace what had discharged while it was sitting. Your expectation of a new battery not losing charge over an extended period would have been valid on older generation vehicles. If your response to the above question shows that the car is being driven more than enough then there will be a parasitic drain or charging problem to diagnose and given your circumstances I would agree with Llanigraham that you need to find a decent garage to do the testingg.

70mph spec tyres, are you dreaming? I dont think that I have seen a vehicle produced in the last 20 years that has had tyres homologated at less than 130 mph speed rating (H) are you really saying that your vehicle was homologated for and fitted with K rated tyres?

Chirping sounds like the one way clutch on the alternator pulley, they dont have to have any apparent movement to make a hell of a racket but chirping is the right description. Best way to check is to remove the belt and rotate the pulley in both directions by hand, you can also use a hex key in the centre of the shaft and rotate it counter clockwise (easy) and clockwise which should pull the belt and turn the engine with enough force.

Cranking very fast, noticeably faster than usual usually mean the cam belt has broken or the valve timing has slipped and the valves have contacted the pistons. + 1 to the easistart test, its a vital piece of diagnostic equipment. Change the glowplugs when you can, one winter you might need them but they wont be causing you any problems at present.

Well almost honest Here we call that ni vu, ni connu. - (Neither seen nor known) I dont blame you though, I would have done the same

Nothing has changed the dealer is obliged under the sale of good act to honour a 3 month warranty and the Trading Standards Office & the courts enforce that rigorously. I would never pay for an insurance warranty or even accept one given as free, been there done that, its just a way for the dealer to try to avoid his responsabilities, to blame someone else, to put themselves as an intermediary rather than the responsable and to do what they and estate agents etc do best, interrupt the line of communication and tell lies. For me the best way is to buy private, when something goes wrong its up to me to sort it and not be screwed around by someone telling lies and trying my patience in the hope that eventually I will give up. Life is too short.

Somewhere he wrote that it was his writing style, I cant go back to look for it as I am partially sighted and find the block of text very fatiguing but the reference to style got me thinking There is punctuation where full stops would be used but there are always 3 of them...also Many words Seem to be Randomly capitalised... I had Initially thought that It Must have been autoCorrect on a smartPhone or something...but now i Am wondering if its an Intentional use of Style? The time it takes to capitalise random words in a sentence or to always type 3 full stops could be put to better use by using the carriage return key (or whatever it is called) to create paragraphs to make the posting easier to read. If I had been able to read and understand it I would have done my best to help if I had anything to offer. My apologies for the seperate paragraphs but I could not bring myself to write this as one big block of text.

My eyes are rubbish and expanding the view doesnt help but I reckon the black that I could see at the top of the struts on the car in the accident are the plastic trim covers that would hide the struts in the undeployed position. You are probably right regarding the deployment parameters, certainly this accident looks that way, bloody dangerous things to have around cocked & ready to deploy. I usually s****** at the advice to disconnect the battery before working on any airbag component or system, I would be wary around those puppies though.

It looks like the horizontal section has broken off yet the vehicle shows no signs of having rolled over, perhaps it went up on 2 wheels explaining the deployment but what cut the horizontal part off? Cant have been the fire brigade as the soft-top is untouched, the ends look far too sharp for them to be 2 seperate uprights. Scary if they deployed simply from a rear impact, My Yeti deployed all the airbags except the roll over curtain ones with the tiniest of shunts that simply scratched the paint on the bumper, its back on the car untouched except for a compound & polish, I can see an accidental deployment in a workshop giving a mechanic a Mike Tyson uppercut.

Look at the paper label on that intercooler hose, no way has that been exposed to 9 years of road dirt, not even 9 days. I assume a 61 reg means 2011?

Given how clean it is under there I would say that the undertray was always in place until Bodgit & Scarper got their hands on it, the disrupted airflow probably helped partially detach the sump cover but they may well have played a part in that too. Without the cover the side protection plastic covers between the wheelarch & the aux drive belt & the other side will flap about in the wind and soon detach also. I would get another garage to put it on a lift and expect it will be plain to see from the dirt marks that the undertray has recently been removed & not refitted. The bodgers should put their hands up and replace the undertray, its fixings and also the sump cover.

My Yeti did not have prewiring or any trailer module, I fitted a cheap towbar and relay interface to avoid the bulb monitoring system problems, I'm quite happy with it but have read with interest all the heated discussions regarding the proper VAG fitment and stability systems etc. Browsing through VCDS I can see where the coding would be done. My question is what control module and wiring etc would I need to add to my vehicle to be able to emulate the towbar prep and to make use of the stability programs etc that exist within the vehicle?

Regarding the display, if it says 4-5 then its suggesting you should change from 4th to 5th, if it says 5-4 then its suggesting you change down, if it shows 5 then it believes from its calculations that you are in 5th gear, if it shows 4 then it believes you are in 4th, clutch slip in 5th would indeed cause the display to show 4. I no longer look at mine as it drives me mad!!! I have binned off the indicators deciding how many times they are going to flash, I wish I could be read of the thing telling me to change gear and of having to declutch to start the engine.

Oooh thats very smart, I take my hat off to you Langers. I was going to say the same as the others regarding the display telling you to change gear but clutch slip is very likely especially if its more evident in the higher gears. Could the OP perhaps be slighly hard of hearing? I know when I was young my Grandad complained of a lack of power on his split screen camper, my uncle drove it and said the clutch was slipping, being the young grease monkey that I was I replaced the clutch but found it hard to understand how someone who could hold a normal conversation with me could not hear or feel clutch slip, he was a good engineer & mechanic. Now in my 60's I'm beginning to be aware of my own hearing loss.

Watch the values when it makes the transition from cooling to not cooling, if the flap was open before then its being commanded to close and wont be a sticking flap problem. It sounds similar to another thread running, my Octavia 2 would do this shortly after start up but only for a few seconds, I think it may have been a defrost cycle on the evaporator. Also check the refrigerant pressure when the transition happens, if that drops from say 15 bar and there is not a corresponding change in the values for the N280 current & compressor load then the N280 valve is playing up, maybe the drop in cooling causes the flap to divert air. You should also look at the evaporator temperature.

pleased to hear that, I stripped mine several times & never found anything amiss, finally fitted some very cheap calipers from China & like you all was then well. It will remain a mystery.

I would have guessed under the RH front wing above the arch liner like the Octavia but having removed my wing recently to repair it the alarm siren definitely was not there but I didn't realise it till now. So I can tell you that its not where it was likely to be and like you I now want to know where it is, only a matter of time before I have to replace mine.

Mechanical failure. Makes a change I suppose...............

Please Only Comment on my Post with Possible Solutions or If you have had any Dealings or Similar Faults... Regrettably I have come across similar faults before, I could see how it was likely to develop.

I dont have time to read mine at the moment but if you search for and download the VAG self study guide on Climatronic you will see and understand the function of all the flaps, what they should do and when, I'm confident armed with that knowledge and a MK1 earhole you will be able to work out what is going wrong, I think one flap closing as it should but another not opening. Is your pollen filter free of bumfluff?

Always more than 5l remaining when range says zero, has been true of my last 3 Skodas. If you look at the stated tank capacity they give 2 figures one of which is the reserve, either 5 or 7 litres, that does not start until zero miles is showing, in fact quite a bit after it. My last 2 I deliberately ran out to see what was the remaining range but they weren't common rail, I wont do it with this one but have already got very close by refilling with 54 litres, had driven maybe 60 miles after zero showing. My MK1 had a troublesome sender unit for a while and that ran out several times. I always had space for a proper steel 5l jerrycan (the real deal) but dont have it in the Yeti unless I tipped it on its side and dont want to run the CR engine driy anyway.

I couldn't read it at all I'm afraid 😞

Wow! I didnt expect that outcome! Good on you!

Just a precision, if the pump seizes then the shear plates will break isolating the drive, the aux belt then drives the alternator as usual & the aircon pulley becomes an idler pulley. The splines on the hub will only strip if the central retaining nut comes loose or was not correctly torqued, if everything is tight they will handle more torque than the shear plates that are intended to fail as the weakest link.

I'm still happy to check it over if you wish. Pulley does not have a clutch, your feeling was right about the mécano. Very little risk running it as it is, with low or no refrigerant it wont cause any wear because the oil will remain in the compressor, if the splines strip but the shear plates remain intact it will make a noise like the tinkle of breaking glass, especially when idling beside a wall or shopfront. The pulley runs on a large bearing at the outside, the shear plates connect it to the inner hub & compressor shaft, if anything nasty happens then they will shear & the vehicle will drive as normal, most owners are unaware that they have sheared or the hib has stripped other than noticing the AC no longer cools.