Arsen

Mine was sorted out through warranty claim. Two times. Third set is fine so far..second replacement was over 2 year ago .i do believe that was manufacturing defect. Even third set has some slight and not easily noticeable “layer of fog”inside. Doesnt affect performance though.

Swapping summer/winter wheels and noticed this. Anybody had something like this? No changes on oil level or at least i haven’t noticed (checking regularly every 7-10 days). 2019, 2.0 tdi, 84 tkm’s, maintained properly. At least to point me in some direction what should i check.

Can you post a photo? i dont think that you can increase power.

Well..there were some issues with LED headlights but power and brightness were not amongst those issues. They’re really good. Halogen’s are rubbish IMHO. Are you sure that you talking about LED headlights?

Its been a while since i visited forum…honestly been very busy and no significant issues with car. So..here we go. Lately, car has developed some unusual noises when operating clutch pedal. 2.0 tdi, manual, 4x4 , 2019. 82 k kms. Out of warranty. First time i noticed it while slowing to a halt in 1st gear…as i pressed clutch..some grind-ish noise (as an example..like two cogs spinning together and sudenly theyre separated from each other and separation isnt smooth) can be briefly heard. I would say happens 90% percent of the time. Also happens when changing gears up (1~>2~>3, 1st to 2nd can be little notchy, esoecialy when engine and gearbox are cold). Same thing audible when beeing stationary, select neutral and if i release clutch pedal just tiny bit quicker. Between 1.5k to 2k rpms faint buzzing noise from engine bay (i would say gearbox area) which dissapears when over 2k rpms. When changing down and trying to be smooth with clutch theres a bit of jolt. Like there are two stages of biting. The only way to avoid this iis to be slow with changing gears. Creating delay between gears on purpose kinda stops it. Or go above 2.5 rpms when changing gears. When driving longer distances and everthing is at optimal working temperature is somewhat better but not completey gone. Bitting point isn’t high, no significant difference in noise when beeing stationary in neutral and press and depress clutch. Pedal itself operates normally, isnt as soft when car was new but quite easy to operate. Car seems tu run just fine, didnt notice clutch slip, no shaking (as DMF can cause it) or rumbling noises. Anybody has similar issue and how was it resolved?. Sorry for the lenghty post..trying to explain it as much precisely as i can.

Regular 4 year warranty. Dunno about extended warranty (what are terms and whats covered and could they refused it or not) but to say its wear and tear is (excuse my french) bull****. Dunno about UK but in my country, Skoda directly gives warranty, dealer usually take picutures and send them directly to skoda and they decide is it warranty job or not.

My headlights have been replaced twice (yes, you read it correctly) under warranty due to these cracks. Still under warranty til 3/2023. Both times skoda accepted warrant claims without hesitation. Tire pressure can not be related. Im runnig third pair of headlights and fingers crossed wont happen again

Skoda accepted warranty claim. So they’re going to be replaced. 🙂 if you have full LED headlights…check ocassionaly for mentioned issue.

Well..here we go again. 2nd set of headlights (1st ones changed under warranty for same issue)..again cracks. Talked to the dealer, they submited photos to Skoda..we’ll se what will be outcome.

Did anybody experienced premature wear of seat belt fabric? Both driver (a bit more since its used constantly) and passenger side. Would post few pics later..for just under 3 years old car seems way to early.

They need to be mechanicaly adjusted. It should be 10 minute job with apropriate equipment.

Have the same issue but on some of the trim, not all over…explanation about chemicals would be reasonable iff all chrome trimming is discoloured. Didnt ask the dealer yet..in my case isn’t that bad. Yet. 😂

Since this is start/stop topic…did anybody experienced following..when car is “in need” for more electricity (ac on) and while beeing stationary (idle) revs go to ~1000 rpm start-stop still kicks in and switches off the engine. Seems unlogical to me to switch off engine., At least my car doing it. Normal?

Ocasionaly experienced same issue, slow speed creaking..anybody resolve it permanently? I know about greasing of silicone spray..asking for permanent solution since i would like to keep car for long period.

I have rattle during winter when the engine is cold. Disappears as engine gets warm. Around 2000 rpm, lower and higher rpm’s rattle dissappears. Plot twist…same rattle appears during summer but only when engine temp gets at full working temperature and air temperature is around 30c and more. Again around 2000 rpm, lower and higher rpm’s rattle dissapears. But it stays as long as engine is arrond 2000 rpm’s. Maybe the car is constructed only for spring and fall. 😂 Sometimes, for the summer part of the story, temporary cure is to lift the bonnet for few mins and close it , that rubber part in engine bay (just below plastic trim on the bottom of the windscreen) seems like its sticky when touching bonnet for too long. Solution so far, stereo volume up. 😁

I have. And seems as an improved iefficiency. Its a harmless, easy and legit procedure. Although im not that unhappy with a/c..its a bit slow when just starts (direct sunlight, seems that dash material becomes crazy hot) but after few minutes cant complain..keeps interior quiet pleasant..and here we had scorching temps lately. Climatronic seems to love longer trips..

I wouldn agree..still makes a lot of consumption difference between ac on or ac off. Also..slower cooling keeps revs higher due to electricity demand hence higher consumption. regarding clip i posted, it suppose to align flaps..how they direct cool/hot air. Sinplified..maybe flaps are not fully open when they need to be fully open. Worth a try.

Did anybody tried this? Worth trying. Reminder: ignition on but dont start the engine.

On the subject…yes..a/c isnt very quick with cooling but once you get moving it really maintains pleasant temp inside the car. Thats my experience.

I was inspecting for some resonance noise under the bonnet and noticed that coolant reservoir have a little play when you try to move it up-down. Althought im not sure that is the reason for that noise just wondering is that normal? 2.0 tdi engine.

Well..i know it can happen with diesel but it has to be very cold (outside temp and very cold exhaust) but happens in reality that is only noticeable on petrol cars. Might be that a/c drainage spills some water on plastic undertray and water finds its way to the back. As long it is water, whatever causes might be, shouldnt be something to worry about.

Dripping water under the front of the car (a bit to the middle)..a/c drainage. Dripping water from the back..exhaust condensation and definitely petrol car. Simple.

Isnt this lhd car? It does seem (pic from the inside of the car) that they need to “travel” a bit more…and i do reccomend to change wipers which came with the car..they’re rubbish..maybe because of poor rubber quality they have more friction!? I did replaced them with Bosch after 3-4 months.

On a serious note..Lane assist gimmick.. Btw, in that episode May explains how ,if he was a head of wv software department, he would throw in few messages who would appear on your screen briefly and just few times in years (like..Your wife is having and affair, Boil your head, You wasted your life etc…) but you would never be sure was it for real or just your imagination…😂

Maybe James May was interfering with Skoda software. If you were TG fan you will know what im talking about..😁