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FAir enough but you never know - the technician might give some clues that might be of some value - the more information the better.

I got that when I bought a set ( https://heynershop.co.uk/wiper-blades/1687-set-of-3-heyner-hybrid-front-and-heyner-flat-rear-windscreen-wiper-blades-26-18-14-st.html ) from them for my 2019 Karoq. I sent it back as it was not as long as the oem blade - I kept the two hybrid font blades though and they are truly excellent - even compared to the bosch - I think they are better. Maybe the 12" will fit where the 11" currently is but... they will supply the wrong adaptor I suspect. There UK customer service is pretty good though - maybe give them a call and they can cobble together the right connector with the 12" blade or an 11" blade for you.

If it is 2021 then, if it were my car, I would take it in and ask them to check it over - just in case it is something more serious. Even if might be a failing (faulty) battery, it might get replaced under warranty as 2 years is not really an acceptable lifespan for a car battery. they can also do a better visual for rodent activity if its on the ramp I would suspect 🙂

Just for future reference. Did they say what aspect of the faulty clutch was causing the squeeling/whirring sound at the low speed? If not then it would be good to get the technicians view on what the cause is - is it slipping? Is it a sticky release bearing? Is it that the cluthcplates are out of tolerence and groaning. Does it only happen at the low speed or do you ever hear it at, say cruising speed or any other gear apart from D1 (or D2 if that is what the car is starting at) Do you ever notice the rev counter spiking when it happens (i.e. clutch slip)? Is it metal against metal grinding (i.e. when they remove the old plates do they have any meat left on them), was there any contamination on the working surfaces etc. etc.... It would be good for everyone to be able to have a good handle on the actual cause and we will only really know if the technician is willing to have an "offline" conversation with you and share the truth. Good luck to you both 🙂 Paul

Could it be a slight brake binding or even something fouling the tyre (bumper or mudguard or heat shield on brake disk. I would pop it down to a local tyre place, show them the video and see if they can take a quick look underneath and at the brakes) - Free safety check style - nothing to lose.

they also have selective vision.... when I took the car in for a self reclining drivers seat they couldn't see it move - despite having put white tape on the adjuster wheel and seat so it could be clearly seen when it did. I should have put some white tape on a stick and handed it to the "master tech". Pah!

That dealer selected deafness - ain't it great 🙂 Funny how when you say that you "might be interested in a list price new Diesel their hearing dramatically improves. Mind you - that sort of talk would cause such a silence in the world I expect anyone could hear a pin drop in the showroom. ha ha

Actually - I might give this a go sometime soon. Does anyone have a pretty diagram showing all of the bushes and their locations that might benefit from a spray? I looked through all of the workshop manuals I have saved over the years but none of them seem to cover the suspension. Cheers, Paul

Yep. Like it since I got the car Feb/2020 Been in twice and they told me it's "a charactersitic of the car". Mine is worse on a cold morning and when going downhill over speedhumps it is especially bad. Never did get under the car and let a can of silicone do its thing so I guess it doesn't bother me "that" much 🙂 I wonder if a PTFE spray would be a good option too? I had a squeak on an exercise machine that has rubber cupped wheels on metal tubes and some wet ptfe spray did the job very well and has lasted years.

The problem with Waze is that it too can take you down some horrendously narrow lanes if you are rural. I followed some questions on the Waze support forums some years back but they did not seem overly concerned to implement it for the UK. The only option was to have the local commnuity editors mark every lane of such a nature as a "no go lane" - Like that is going to happen with the 10's thousands of crappy narrow lanes in the UK. https://support.google.com/waze/thread/184898333/how-can-i-avoid-narrow-lanes-in-the-uk?hl=en https://www.waze.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=293000 Waze was originally developed for the fastest route regardless of narrow lanes and back streets - that was its purpose in life. Problem is that in most of the UK there is a sensible route and there is an "on paper" fastest route taking you down home hairy lanes that barely have any passing places - all to save 1 minute on a journey where, in reality, you can barely do 10mph down some of them due to the narrowness as opposed to the 60 they are set to in law. I asked about making all narrow lanes 10mph, which would fix the issue but again, that would require silly amounts of local community editor input. I have had some horrors myself using both Google Maps and Waze so they are all as bad as each other in my view. Currently I am experimenting with Amigo and that seems more forgiving but you do have to have internet all the time for it to work which, in the UK, in some rural areas is not the case. At least with Google maps you can download local maps and the navigation can continue if you lose mobile data for a few minutes. Try driving through Exmoor or Dartmoor and you will know what I mean 🙂

Barsteward. I normally get a 900cc VW Up or some such pocket rocket.

Although..... With a little used car the belt can still perish, as can the tyres and the bushes etc. - that's what I was told anyway. Sometimes ultra low use can be worse than "average" use for that kind of thing unless its in a heated and humidity controlled garage.

In this scenario you are always advised to change not only the water pump but also all the replacable pulleys/tensioner bits. If I recall corectly, there is a specific kit for the purpose and the quote to replace the belt (from a VAG or from a proper VAG indie) will should always include this. That is my recollection from my 2009 2.0Tdi Tiguan that was exactly as you describe. I had it for 10 years and had it all done twice or maybe even 3 times. A damn expensive cost that you don't really consider when you are in teh showroom looking at all the shiny new cars - and why would you 🙂 All the moving (and wearable) parts were replaced as any one of them failing is a new engine / engine rebuild scenario or for a car over 8 years old most likely scrappage or a "project" for a person of that persuasion. Dont get me started on the other achiles heel (suspension bushes, struts, rods and shocks etc.). That was another major uplift in "unexpected costs" on the Tiguan from years 4 to 10 while trying to cure creaking/squeeking/crashing over inperfections in the road/road humps (or at least keep it in an acceptable range of annoyance) - Many hundreds of pounds more! Tehn there was the propshaft leak/replacement (4x4) and also the haldex and diff oil chages and Auto oil changes. Overall it was a very expensive car to maintain well. At least the propshaft was covered under a 3rd party warranty when I persuaded the indie to take some photos of the oil drips under the rear diff seal (on the floor) which constituted a failure rather than a "misting". That, if memory serves me, was about £1200 worth for a new propshaft. If they had rejected claim then I would have had a seal change done by the indie of course. Cheers, Paul

I find what can occasionally be equally annoying where I am looking at the map in AA and I pop it in R and the map dissapears with the rear camera view when I was still looking to check the route just before reversing up my drive. Takes me a few seconds to fiddle about to get AA back. Then a remonstration to myself to finish looking at the route before moving the selector. Ahhh 1st world problems..........

If its in D or R and it is keyless starting and you open the door the car will not accelerate and you get a dirty great warning. Tried it today. Car in R with engine on and the door was open. I accidentally pressed the accelerator a bit while I was faffing with my phone before setting off and I got a loud warning and a red colour in the central console display telling me to put the car into P. The only conceivable way you could accelerate is if the window is open and you use a long stick to press the acelerator pedal (unless its been adapted for disability (in which case I defer to someone who knows that scenario).

My Bad. I put 2+2 together and made 6. 115hp and looking for a diesel and assumed it was a 1L oil burner (knowing that the 2L Tdi should be more like 140-150BHP) like my old Tiguan was.

And.... even if you only get 45mpg (like me) on a long run - Life is too short 🙂 Where a Karoq really suffers is wind resistance at autobahn like speeds / sales rep type scenarios. The sleeker models will not fare so badly on that front.

I've never driven a 1.0 diesel apart from as a courtesy car once (independent garage) and my memory was not a good one. It was a PUG (205) and may have been 1.0 or 1.2. I also learned to drive back in the 80's and it was a 1.9 Diesel PUG which was brilliant as you could really not stall it. You could just release the clutch with no "gas" and it pulled off. That (amongst other reasons) is why the instructer had it I think - his pass rate was well above average. IMHO - You might be a sedantry driver (OP) but you still need a bit of oomph when you try to get up to speed to join a motorway etc. Personally - if I was going sub 1.5L it would be petrol all the way. My old 2.0 with an old style planetary auto box was fine on the power side but rarely got above 40mpg so it was not really a saving at all as I could have got a 1.6 petrol with better MPG and at least with a turbo charged little petrol engine you can give it a good thrashing as and when needed. Having said that, I would (personally) not touch a VAG car again with a small engine and a manual box. My wife has a Fabia 1.0 manual and the 1st to 2nd gear shift if a real PITA when you are on an incline in traffic. We went an an exciting drive one time up in Exmoor with a couple of 1 in 4 bendy hills and I tell you - it was not a pleasure in her car. I reckon we reduced the clutch wear material by at least 10% in an hour - that car will never "go on a tour" again. Strictly for the shopping run and as a half decent 2nd car. 20000 miles per year in a heavy-ish / large-ish car and a 1L diesel lump turbo'd up to within an inch of its life with an engine that is really only good for low down grunt - I fear you may come to regret that choice if that is the choice you settle on. You foot will be permeantly planted to the floor just to make meaningful progress and those 20000 miles will start to feel more like 200000 miles. I know us motorists are expected to self flagellate these days but you might as well get a milk float. Ha ha ha ......... The dealer will likely try to pursuade you that it's a great idea - I wonder why?? They must be as popular as the new 20mph speed limit all over Wales. Still, the Welsh government will reverse that in part (or in full) at some point I am sure. Probably on Monday afternoot after the inevitable carnage of the school run on Monday morning. Another nail in the coffin for the poor motorist. They will be sitting there being overtaken by Horses and Cyclists and thinking - did I really sign up for this. 😆

Looks like a shoddy job done to me. I would make a formal complaint to your insurance company (who insisted you used their approved repairer without excessive costs and excesses and tell them that you are not satisfied with the quality of the pattern part or the quality of the work carried out - If necessary they can send out one of their own inspectors to examine it as taking pictures of glass is really tricky. Make them deal with the repairer and follow it through to a satisfactory conclusion. Your contract is with them I expect and not the 3rd party. I am not a legal eagle mind.

I had a auto (non DSG) 2.0 Tiguan diesel 4x4 (2009-2019) and have a petrol Karoq. All prevoius cars to the Tiguan were petrol. I was tempted in 2009 to Diesel due to the prevailing company car rules/allowances at the time and the fact that it was meant to be a lower total cost of ownership. what a crock that turned out to be!! Personally, where we are right now, I would not even entertain a diesel. At some point you will pay for the choice even more than you do now (fuel price, emissions charges, crippled to death by all teh tech required to be allowed to drive it, road tax changes that will inevitably be coming down the tracks). Add to that (despite all of the refinements over the last 10 years) it is still a rattly, noisy and smelly and smokey engine/fuel imho. and it will only really persist in commercial vehicles. Agreed, the low down torque - I do miss and the fact that it is pretty much impossible to stall if it is a manual in traffic. I dont miss the low red line, the glow plugs in a cold winter and sounding like a 1980's minicab when you open the windows - despite trying to convince yourself that it is not really that bad or annoying. Now....... there is a can of worms statement 🙂 - Light the blue touch paper and walk back carefully ... This is only my own personal perception/opinion and does not represent anything more than that. Cheers, Paul

Reworded and expanded comments.

I hope it gets resolved for you. I have no idea if the noise you are hearing is in any way normal/abnormal/terminal or a "feature" but someone will know (if they can work out what is the issue noise and not just recording artefacts as you struggle to get it down on a recording). Just a couple of suggestions:- A better sound recording will really help the "real experts" on here to give you a better idea - most of us are just enthusiastic amateurs like you. Notoriously difficult I know (been there - tried that) but it will be worth the effort. You can also use the recording to demonstrate it to the seller/dealer when you (ultimately) have to take it in to them for investigation. I hope it had a good used warranty!! When I did my recording my foot was damp and there was a sound like a squeaking rat as my foot moved on teh pedals and a farting sound due to a poorly positioned mic/phone which certainly muddied the waters. You will be much much better served and helped by the various experts in thier particular field of interest areas if you put your car model, year, engine size, gearbox type, fuel type, 2wd/4wd, tyre rim sizes, and any extras you have on it from factory standard, Sound system type etc. into your profile as well as your (approximate) location. Good luck. and..... The DQ200 is not a lemon. It had some issues in the past (pre Karoq days mainly) but all technology can be problematic and there is always a percentage of issues. Don't believe the nay-sayers. It is such a popular gearbox (built probably in the millions) that even a small percentage of issues get amplified to death on forums etc. I would certaily be asking the VAG garage if all of the gearbox and engine management updates have been applied to your car. They will know. If you purchased it from a non-franchised dealer or privately then.... Well.... I don't know..... Talk to the VAG dealer about the All-in-one - In my humble opinion it is worth having if you don't already have it. Look out the threads on that. Cheers, Paul

Hi, To my mind that sounds more like the starter motor starting the engine after the car turned it off during an automatic Stop/Start). I never use Stop/Start mind - I turn it off with the button just after I start the car to begin a journey. It is not anything to do (or like) the noise I was having 🙂 Mine was a noise under hard acceleration uphill and was a whine (as Breezy_Pete said) I think it was just a "healthy" induction whine.

Hi, I do still have the car and I guess it is "kind of normal" but the problem is that when you report it they make you look as though you are mad at the dealers. They did this too with my self reclining chair mechanism so I kind of gave up and learned to live with it. In fairness it was my 1st DSG and fairly early on in my ownership experience and having come from a planetary Auto box it was very different. In hindsight it has not "failed" in any way (gearbox) so I guess it is just a "characteristic". The self reclining seat - well I just learned to wind it back up to the more vertical position every time I get into the car. By the end of the day it needs winding up again. Went in to the garage 3 times for that but they refused (Skoda customer services) to belive it even though I managed to prove it was happening by putting white dots on the wheel and seat and wiggling around a bit in the seat (to simulate going over a bumpy road) and the master tech seeing that it moved. He just said "that's not normal human behavior". I gave up! The suspension has also always been creaky/popping in colder weather, especially going over speed bumps etc. and for the first few miles in wetter/colder weather but again, Went out with the master tech and he said it was "normal" so gave up on trying to persuade them it was "not normal" or "should not be normal". For that one I may get an indie to do a clean and full lube of the bushes and such (I wouldn't trust/pay the VAG garage to do that). If the indie finds a problem then it will be "wear and tear" anyway - even though I reported it and fought for it at year 2 with VAG. I will not be getting another VAG car. I strongly recommend the All in package - I have that and when it runs out ...... the car is going to be moved on. Don't get me wrong - 90% of the car is great but the lack of addressing clear faults by the dealership / Skoda UK has put me right off VAG group cars. On the plus side. My passenger side electric window mechanism failed on my Karoq and it was done under all-in-one and both of my wifes window mechanisms on her Fabia (2019) also failed - one during the 1st 3 years warranty and the other in the All-in-one phase. Both were replaced under warranty so both all-in-one warranties have paid for themselves and I still have the comfort of the rest of the all-in-one for other issues. Oh - yes - I got a plastic rubber seal replaced too under the warranty as the original fell off (bottom of rear door - Poor Design. Keep an eye on those. Cheers, Paul

For wired AA be aware that (on my car / phone combo at least) it can be very fussy about the quality of the cable. I tried several that kept disconnecting at random intervals until I found one that was rock solid. If you have disconnection issues it may not be the Android Auto app or the head unit playing up - not saying you have this issue but its worth noting anyway.