TrinityJay

Just an FYI you'll find the data on cameras etc is the same across both services. Google bought Waze a couple of years back in order to acquire their crowd-sourced traffic data system.

There's an issue with the thumbwheel controls, particularly the right side one; many people have problems. Mine barely worked when I got my MY2017 last year, had it replaced under warranty. The new one still plays up every now and then by registering an additional scroll step after already selecting a page. I think the encoder isn't well adjusted/goes out of sync with the steps of the wheel.

Have you considered modifying the intake instead? May not be as dramatic as an exhaust change, but also cheaper and less likely to offend the powers that be And if it does furrow brows, well an intake mod is easily restored to stock with minimal tools!

I assume you mean with the sunroof open? Mine does this, mainly at highway speeds, and physics are too blame. The only way to stop it would be to somehow increase the sliding resistance of the blind such that the flow of air over it can no longer pull it back.

At first glance they look like the same cluster I have on my bi-xenon equipped RS.

Looks like us Aussies are taking over! Meteor Grey is a similar but slightly different grey, possibly offered at different times to Steel Grey but don't quote me on that! This is Steel Grey- ....aka 'Battleship Grey' aka 'Gloss Primer'! You can have colour envy of mine, while I have wagon envy of you fellas' cars Someone in the SE suburbs has a black RS wagon that gets me especially tingly, buuuut I know from past experience what owning a black car is like....looks fantastic after washing, then you have about 5 seconds to take a photo before it's dirty again!

Typically modifying the intake is more for sound than power gains

I stand corrected, it's synchronized. I had a play about in the driveway and it would engage reverse while rolling slowly both backwards and forwards, no grinding or even a single clunk. It also had that familiar moment of resistance then *pop* of a cold synchromesh box.

I've heard a small handful of cars have such things, never experienced one myself though. I believe that whatever the setup it is fundamentally similar to the usual one, as I've experienced the half-engaged reverse trick just as much as in other manuals. I don't think it's synchronized but perhaps some system with a very mild helical profile? You'dthink plenty of these things have been torn down but apparently nobody has thought to post imagery online! One decent photo could answer the question.

Find out before agreeing to anything. As I mentioned before unless I'm mistaken the factory setup is Sachs, so when they say they'll fit a Sachs clutch it could easily be a stock like-for-like swap which your car will obviously mince in short order.

Simple enough question but for all my googling I cannot find an answer!! The traditional straight cut reverse gear whine of a manual gearbox is not present in my RS230. Does anyone know how/why?

Not sure what you mean sorry. You can get the 550Nm 'street' performance disc on its own, and the cover + pressure plate on its own, or buy them together as a kit. AFAIK Sachs also manufactured the factory clutch setup, so these components bolt in without any other changes required. Replacing the flywheel is optional, but I had a new DMF (also Sachs) fitted as the original was worn. Also had the slave cylinder replaced.

I had a similar issue a while back (well, much milder by the sounds of it) in a then recently purchased RS230 that the previous owner had remapped. Clutch was experiencing slip in high gears when boost peaked. Coming from a 170HP atmo GTi6 I had no worthwhile point of reference so didn't know it was tuned until Skoda told me so. Rather than suffer slippage I had the clutch upgraded to the Sachs 550Nm 'street' performance unit, and later got in contact with the original owner and confirmed 'stage 1', 256HP & 400Nm+ ATW. The 550Nm Sachs unit will be the way to go. Is it daily driveable? Yes, and while the engagement is progressive it's still rather bitey (especially until it beds in a little). The pedal also becomes quite firm, particularly compared to the overly light stock system, so be prepared for that. In terms of stiffness it's quite similar to my old 306, so if you have the means you could try the clutch in one of those first (RHD models are known for a heavy clutch due to routing the cable past the exhaust manifold, which dries up the lubrication - French engineering at work).

Still not sure what to make of that....is it supposed to be a single tube on the right hand side? The perspective on the 2nd & 3rd images as pictured is very confusing.

You've made the thread I've been meaning to! When I installed my dashcam I followed a guide for removing the $@#%ing A pillar covers somewhere on here, and I too was perplexed by the lack of the drainage tubes. I had not yet poured water down what appeared to be the drainage channels (thankfully by the sounds of it). That said, it's been parked outside in a few downpours and is yet to leak anywhere. I have the hatch as well. Would be great to have this cleared up as Googling hasn't shown me any useful answers.

Same thing happened to me! Key worked fine until it didn't, no warning. A short while later my 2nd key prompted low battery warnings from the car, and I changed it. In hindsight I should've tested the voltage on that key's battery to see how it compared with the one that gave no warning.

Can't help you with removing the trim, but here's what I did as food for thought. Never even considered removing the trim myself, just used the same tried & true method from the install on my old 306. Consider that if you tuck the cable underneath the trim, you're going to have to cut a hole in it somewhere to get the cable out at the camera.

@Blairyc and I are Down Under, tyre 'season' types are far less of a thing here We generally fit what you would consider summer tyres year round. The Eagle F1s will sort it out I'm sure 👍

Wow the fitted tyres must be garbage then, it shouldn't be *that* bad with the stock map. Eagle F1 is a decent tyre, I had Directional 5s on my 306 GTi6 for years and it stuck like **** to a blanket. I have P-Zeroes just because that's what the factory fitted and the dealer was willing to chuck in some fresh ones, but I believe Michelin PS4 are the darling child right now.

Another Aussie, welcome mate! I bought my '17 RS230 with a sneaky 'Stage 1' tune, which I didn't know about at time of purchase and I'm not sure the dealer did either. You're not wrong that it's a lot of grunt going through the front wheels! I have new P-Zeroes fitted and it will happily squirm around on those at WOT in 2nd, even with the VAQ LSD. I haven't driven a stock vRS but I did test drive a Megane GT220 before my purchase, which has the exact same figures as your car, and it felt plenty quick.

Yep, that's what i did. Transcend MicroSD in an adaptor, formatted as exFAT. Funnily enough in the process of dicking about with this I realised my older phone *does* support Android Auto, so I'll probably use that going forward! Lacks the dashboard display directions which is a shame, but Google Maps is otherwise pretty good.

Belated update- Update finished in the AM, but stayed stuck at 100%. Had to leave it as I had just pulled up at work. When I got back in the afternoon the update had restarted itself automatically and was at 27% or so. I waited for it to finish once home and it gave me the error message many seem to get, but after backing out of that screen the update had indeed taken. Didn't see any such folder personally, I had /Mib1, /Mib2 and a text file.

Think I've worked it out now I found https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/, plugged my VIN in and it said I have Columbus. Downloaded update, which is currently (very slowly) installing. About half way done, will finish it off on the drive to work in the AM.

That was just after a professional interior detail, after the selling dealership 'detail' left every surface sticky, greasy, or a disgusting combination of both. Picture of glovebox unit attached System information screen lists hardware as H50, software as 0702 if that's at all helpful.

I've had a search before and couldn't make heads nor tails of what is what Also I'm the second owner of the car, so it may have come with a Skoda card originally but *I* do not have it if it did! Photo of my interior attached should that assist identification.