TrinityJay

I need to get this done myself. Is it absolutely essential that the SD card be this official Skoda card? My RS230 did not come with such a card and the maps are well out of date.

I've always wondered why this is, as even my 20 years old GTi6 advised against it in the manual and yet I never experienced any adverse effects. If the battery is completely dead then sure, but what if it just can't quite kick the starter over, or the battery is fine but the starter has failed?

Have you tried the reset procedure? Since the twig was removed?

Can't be any worse than a modern Renault, basically have to put your foot through the firewall from factory!

It's happening because the paging has gone off. A reset should do the trick, worked for me when I had the same issues following an interior detail (someone obviously bumped the switch). - Turn the dial to the fully closed position - One side of the dial has an indentation and can be tilted up slightly. Do that, and hold it - After 10 seconds or so the sunroof should start opening on its own, and will then close. Keep holding the dial in the tilted position - Dial can be released once the sunroof has fully returned home. Process is now complete and the sunroof should be fixed

Yep nobody near me it seems. That's alright though, I had already planned to get VCDS for myself at some point in the future. I'll just suffer the HHA until that day comes.

Wonderful! Now to get a hold of a VCDS somewhere

I've seen the HHA subject come up in my searches but haven't found an answer, threads always get mixed up with DSG and/or electronic handbrake users. To put it plainly, I don't like or need HHA and want it gone. I know how to do handbrake hill starts, but was 'raised' on the normal brakes method and am competent enough to rely on it exclusively. The problem I'm having is that HHA isn't disengaging as fast as my feet move, so the car just sits there for a few seconds before moving off with a groan once HHA catches up. From my testing HHA can be made to let go immediately with a certain degree of throttle, so it's mostly a non-issue on steeper hills. The problem is with minor gradients and/or low speed maneuvers, where very little or even no throttle is required. Unfortunately for me, my driveway, work carpark and the local shops carpark all share this feature. Multiple times a day I'm stuck either waiting...waiting...waiting....*groan* and away, or revving the engine like a learner in their first manual. So, does anyone know if the HHA be disabled (via VCDS or otherwise) in a manual with the conventional handbrake? Failing that, can it at least be adjusted to be less intrusive? Eg- letting go as soon as the clutch is raised, or being set to an unrealistic angle threshold so that it never intervenes? Thanks in advance

My neck hurts! Nice colour though, looks great. Has it got spacers fitted? Maybe it's just the angle but it looks like it has a wider track than mine (which resides in Australia where aftermarket spacers are illegal).

Yes, but that was on a GTi6 with 'auto-adjusting' cable clutch that routes next to the exhaust manifold on RHD models....French engineering at work 🤔 I would guess throw out assembly as above. Previous owner could've been a sit-at-red-lights-with-clutch-disengaged kinda guy.

Great post by @Ads230 in line with my own experiences. I had the 034 insert for maybe 3wks, was great at first exactly as above but then I had some axle tramp return (the banging you've mentioned). That was when I discovered the additional advice on 034 Motorsport's website about needing the upper insert to prevent the lower insert from failing. My car had been tuned by the previous owner (output TBC) and made quick work of the lone lower mount, which had a noticable bend upon removal. I've since had a replacement sent out + the upper insert, but am yet to install it (hopefully this weekend).

So I tested this yesterday with a few aggressive redline upshifts - no issues. Also revved up while coasting in neutral and clutch always engaged as fast as I could lift my foot off the pedal. Certainly points to something being not quite right with your setup.

That certainly makes sense from a physics perspective, though I can't imagine how/why a clutch would do it - not an engineer however! @Niomi can you confirm it is the Sachs street kit with 550Nm organic disc? Does it still happen if you're just revving the car to 6,000RPM in neutral? (I've read the idle limiter is disabled with TC off, yet to test that)

I had a similar setup put in recently (Sachs 550Nm kit, DMF, and slave) and am having no such issues, pedal snaps back right away (as expected with how firm it is). The lines, bleed block, etc are an unknown....previous owner has modified the car and I don't know what work was performed other than it's running more power than stock! Does this only happen above 6,000RPM, or is that kind of spirited acceleration just the only time you're trying to get off the clutch fast enough for it to be an issue?

20201008_054709.mp4

You won't have to look very far to find one, any bolt going into metal should do the trick. If in doubt just test for continuity with the engine bay.

Mine tends to look worse than that after a rainy morning commute, which is mostly freeway. Perhaps more road spray than you experienced? Regardless, cleaning it after you've got out of the car defeats the purpose It's supposed to rain later this week so if I remember I'll show what mine looks like.

I think it's important someone points this out... (Note- factory camera on a RHD model) That little nobbly bit is a washer jet that activates in tandem with the rear windscreen washer. My camera inevitably becomes all crudded up and fairly useless after driving in wet weather, such that it's my opinion any cheap knock-off without the washer jet is going to be of limited use.

Part of the Tech Pack I thought.

If you're talking about the bump right before it hits the floor, that's the kickdown switch. Needless to say it's not relevant to manuals.

Replaced with a new Sachs DMF, though unsure if it's the exact same one as fitted from factory.

Certainly sounds like a linkage issue then.

So after holding the button in I did a 1st gear pull. When boost came on I heard the tyres scrabbling and the revs squirmed a bit, I assume VAQ doing something. At around 4,500RPM I noticed the TC light blinking and the tyres were very much struggling, but it didn't feel or sound like power was being cut, then I backed off. What would the blinking light indicate if not TC kicking in? This was in a straight line so ESC shouldn't be a factor.

Yes I don't quite understand why I got the warning for this key but not the other one. FWIW this wasn't a one off, it's been warning me for the past few days but I kept forgetting to do it until today.

Another update- Skoda guy that wanted to test the car again is now 2wks without contact, haven't tried to get in touch myself as testing for mystery tune issues and/or valve timing causing the revs to jump seems like a waste of time Regardless, the slip was occurring more frequently so I went ahead and got Sachs' 550Nm kit fitted this week. Car is now a completely different beast! The pedal feels about as firm as my GTi6 so I'll get used to that, however she is bitey! Although I managed to get home without stalling I did nearly smack my face into the windscreen trying to shift 3rd -> 2nd. Most importantly, no slip! I tried a few rolling pulls and it feels far more responsive, but now I'll have to be a good lad for a little while so it can settle in properly.