UndertheRadar

Pull those plugs out after a couple of thousand miles and check to make sure they are not covered in carbon. Seems to be an issue with some tunes as the step colder is not really needed over the OEM plug. I’m sure the car feels completely different now. Mine did. Makes them such a useful daily tool, and a much more pleasant experience for safe overtaking and general driving.

Merc, possibly a CLK maybe?

I always have with turbo charged engines and always will. The fast idle is perfect timing from start to allow time to spool up before driving. I then always spool back down again for about the same time before turning the engine off again. I also have a pedal box in mine and have done from basically new. Transforms the response of the car. Removes the lag which I found made the car feel gutless when trying to merge into traffic or negotiate junctions etc.

Mines set for 97 Ron fuel.

Pop the quarter panel trim off on both sides and check the quarters while hosing the tail light. I would suspect the passenger side rear tail light is leaking. I’ve had to silicone the entire light back in to fix leaks. New gaskets made no difference. Will just make changing a bulb eventually a bit of a chore but at least tue car will be dry in the meantime

Not sure on part number, but I’ve been running the B6 damptronics with Eibach pro springs for a few years now and a right few miles. They are still 100% with no issues to report. Car sits well even 4 up and the dog in the boot. Handles better than it has any right to for its size.

Every 2yrs

Make sure whoever does the haldex takes the pump out and cleans the gauze and doesn’t just change the oil.

First thing is if he is a specialist, what belt is he replacing on a 2.0tsi? The Haldex should have been done by now, and I would change the dsg oil and filter if it was my own car. I do mine haldex 2yrs and dsg 4 regardless of the low mileage. The rest seems fine. I’d be checking my air filter before 6yrs as well.

Above 30 and out of street lighting the high beam is supposed to stay on even with oncoming traffic. It adjusts the position of the beam so as to light the road ahead with maximum effect, but while controlling the position of the focus away from the oncoming vehicle. You should see the light drop along with the oncoming vehicle, and then raise again once it has passed. I find mine to be of great value during the dark winter months, and it works flawlessly.

Sometimes worn or loose drop links can cause a bit of sway as well.

Bushes maybe causing slight wander ?

Sometimes if you thump (carefully) the door handle on the outside of the vehicle at the same time as you unlock the vehicle, it can be enough to free the lock and allow you to open the door and gain access to replace the lock.

Is it when cold or warm or both? Does it still not change smoothly when the box is in sport mode? What service history do you have with the vehicle? What year and mileage does it have on it now? May be in need of a service/oil change rather than an issue with the box.

I haven’t priced around yet and likely won’t until after the holidays, but a genuine one looks like it’s the guts of £400, so best get it replaced while you can.

Has anyone else had any issues with the estate tonneau cover failing. My first one failed under warranty and was replaced at just under 3yrs and no more. The replacement has failed again today, so has lasted about 3.5yrs. Both failed in the same way. If you don’t take the tension when opening, it goes off like an IED and tries to take the rear seats with it. 🤣

Then my conversation would have been along the lines of “here’s your car back”.

As above. Nothing wrong with genuine plugs and coils. Several aftermarket coils and plugs available. No real point until you reach around stage 3 onwards though IMO. Running perfectly when warm and lumpy when cold points more towards carbon build up. Could be contributed to by cheaper fuel, driving style or possibly the map is over fuelling at times leading to excess carbon.

I haven’t looked at settings in a bit but there might be a speed adjustment for the lights reaction time. I can’t remember.

Carbon build up on the valves. Needs the intake removed and the backs of the valves walnut blasted. Would also need the PCV checked and maybe replaced.

I just put my headlights in auto and leave the system to do its thing. Brilliant system and one of the most useful features in the car in my opinion. I have it in constant use in the evenings at this time of year and find it helps fatigue on dark roads no end. Maybe try trusting it to do its job for a night or two and see how it goes. From auto, push the stalk forward to go into manual high beam, and then pull back to turn system off completely.

A lot of poorly set maps cause over fueling. Carbon issues, oil dilution, turbo failure and engine failure etc etc. Just walk away. They are clearly not going to allow any workshop time allowance towards the car or they already would have before sale. Aftermarket warranty will refuse cover as the vehicle is modified. The dealer will fob you off and then disappear as you knew it had faults before purchase. The equivalent 5 series is a 540i. The B58 unit is solid and easily tuned as well. Both will be solid vehicles as long as you choose the right one.

If the software is causing a rough idle or misfire I’d avoid the car completely. No idea how long it’s been driven like that. Also, if caused by the Mapping, it’s a shockingly poor calibration. And again vehicle should be avoided. If the dealer can’t solve a misfire before selling the vehicle, I’d avoid them as well.

Oil change even at the lower mileage always makes a noticeable difference. DSG oil was changed at something like 26-27k the first time and then yesterday again at 52k. DSG oil was slightly brown but not bad. Oil change has made a very noticeable difference in smoothness and changes even at the low service interval. It’s due plugs again next year and I think I’ll replace all the coils as a precautionary measure to avoid even a slight miss, at the same time. Can’t do any harm, except to my wallet.

Revo advice for mine at stage 2 was genuine plugs and OEM oil. With the only restriction being that they are both changed more frequently. I normally run Castrol LL at 5w-30. None available when I needed it, so have as of yesterday, changed the oil with Castrol LL 0w-30. This leaves my personal intervals at 6 months instead of 12, and about 5k miles between changes. DSG also running Revo software, and I had already dropped the factory interval for oil change down to every 3 yrs instead of 80k. DSG serviced yesterday as well for the second time at 52k with genuine bungs, filters and oil from TPS.