UndertheRadar

I just put my headlights in auto and leave the system to do its thing. Brilliant system and one of the most useful features in the car in my opinion. I have it in constant use in the evenings at this time of year and find it helps fatigue on dark roads no end. Maybe try trusting it to do its job for a night or two and see how it goes. From auto, push the stalk forward to go into manual high beam, and then pull back to turn system off completely.

A lot of poorly set maps cause over fueling. Carbon issues, oil dilution, turbo failure and engine failure etc etc. Just walk away. They are clearly not going to allow any workshop time allowance towards the car or they already would have before sale. Aftermarket warranty will refuse cover as the vehicle is modified. The dealer will fob you off and then disappear as you knew it had faults before purchase. The equivalent 5 series is a 540i. The B58 unit is solid and easily tuned as well. Both will be solid vehicles as long as you choose the right one.

If the software is causing a rough idle or misfire I’d avoid the car completely. No idea how long it’s been driven like that. Also, if caused by the Mapping, it’s a shockingly poor calibration. And again vehicle should be avoided. If the dealer can’t solve a misfire before selling the vehicle, I’d avoid them as well.

Oil change even at the lower mileage always makes a noticeable difference. DSG oil was changed at something like 26-27k the first time and then yesterday again at 52k. DSG oil was slightly brown but not bad. Oil change has made a very noticeable difference in smoothness and changes even at the low service interval. It’s due plugs again next year and I think I’ll replace all the coils as a precautionary measure to avoid even a slight miss, at the same time. Can’t do any harm, except to my wallet.

Revo advice for mine at stage 2 was genuine plugs and OEM oil. With the only restriction being that they are both changed more frequently. I normally run Castrol LL at 5w-30. None available when I needed it, so have as of yesterday, changed the oil with Castrol LL 0w-30. This leaves my personal intervals at 6 months instead of 12, and about 5k miles between changes. DSG also running Revo software, and I had already dropped the factory interval for oil change down to every 3 yrs instead of 80k. DSG serviced yesterday as well for the second time at 52k with genuine bungs, filters and oil from TPS.

Halfords have an offer on it at the minute as well, along with the 0w-30 5ltr as well.

Failure points that are very common are seal failure and corrosion. I’ve seen the earlier ones gone after 2-3yrs. Not sure when the revised shock was released to apparently counter these issues. But if you drive anywhere with salt during the winter, I’d still be very cautious, as that has to date been its biggest killer.

I’m surprised at the retailer telling you the failure is unusual. It is actually a very common fault with the SA shocks.

I have the H&R front and rear bar. No issues. Works very well. No noise problems with the supplied H&R bushings. If you fit the rear bar as well you will need to upgrade the drop links as the factory units will snap.

The bush on the rear trailing arm is a known point for knocking. I’d have the shocks checked first though. Seen a few cases where the special actives fail early.

B6 damptronics along with Eibach pro springs. Bilstein top mount and OEM bearings. Has been fitted for several years now without issue. No noise at all. Front Lower arm rear bush fitted with the TTS solid bush. Fixed the creak noise during slow manoeuvring or stop and go traffic. Lower arm front bush now noisey over speed bumps when it gets dry. If sprayed with silicone lube, it’s as quiet as a mouse. Still undecided as to what I’m going to press in yet to try and rectify.

Spray the lower arm bushes with silicon and see if the noise goes away for a bit.

Yes, that’s the best thing to do. I would absolutely do as everyone else has suggested.

272 with 50k. No oil top ups or chain issues. Water pump leaking would be the main one. The older gti and vrs units would have seen the most issues with chains.

Did you bleed all 4 lines or just the rear that popped out? I’d be inclined to try bleeding the entire system first at all four corners and then check for leaks while the pressure is still on the system. Then see how the pedal feels.

The vehicle is maintained properly and running well because of it. Peace of mind and contentment is all the silver lining needed. IMO anyway!!

I clean mine with a light APC mix and a soft leather brush. Let it dry and using a cloth gently apply some 303.

Is it a caliper issue that takes a while to stick again after opening the piston to fit the new pads? Is one wheel warmer than the other after a drive? Try taking the pads out again and pushing the piston back and pumping it out again, a few times and then retest for the vibration again.

I was told by several different VAG techs that I know, that it was 0w-30 from the gen3 GPF unit. It came out of the factory with this grade to comply with the WLTP standards and would then be changed back to 5w-30 at the first service.

Try ECU testing or control units for a repair rather than a replacement.

Audi inject cavity foam at the factory as part of the build to reduce road noise and make the vehicle feel and sound quieter. Maybe this is done to a lesser extent on the Passat and Arteon, and not at all on the Superb?

Common VAG issue. Sometimes requires a replacement module to rectify. Well known fault. I’d call the dealer and see what they say first of all.

I use castrol edge 5w-30 LL in mine.

If you add anti roll bars to your mod list then also add uprated adjustable drop links to the list already given above. So far the VWR rose jointed links are lasting the best.

Bit late, but you can also get a car pro rayon pad which will make life a lot easier if you need to go over the screen again. A polisher is the way to go to make life simpler, but they are not cheap for a decent one. Could you maybe borrow one from a friend if you purchased your own pad for it maybe? I use this type of pad along with the ceri glass to clean windscreens from fallout and grease etc a few times a year, and it will happily remove wiper marks from the screen as well. Just tape of the trim around the glass to avoid it damaging the plastic and don’t go anywhere near paint with it.