UndertheRadar

If that area is handy to you, you could give BTS performance centre a ring and let them look at it for a second opinion. Clean, tidy and very competent. He’s based on Green road, not far from MS. He’d likely sort your other issues without hassle as well.

B6 damptronics are the items I fitted. So running on DCC with standard springs at the minute. with two failed monroes at around 10k and the replacements also banging and crashing, I’d no interest in trying to adjust them or calibrate either as the suspension banged away just the same with the suspension in the stiffened sport setting. Stuck the 4 of them in the bin.

Mine drove terribly on the OEM monroes. Crashed over everything. drove over a repair in the road one day, and the NSF crashed that hard it banged the glovebox open. My wife’s ST drove over the same patch without even noticing it was there. I was at the same point you are now. It almost made the car undriveable. You were constantly waiting for another bang and you spent your time tense while driving. I replaced with Bilsteins and it transformed the car. I still get the very odd clunk over certain surfaces, so I’m changing the springs shortly as well. Shocks Removed the bounce from the rear, although I did the front and rear H&R roll bars at the same time. I’m hoping the updated springs and then adjusting the bars and drop links will fine tune the small amount of noise left out altogether.

Could be the start of a PCV issue if you think the smoke/steam is getting bad enough or more than expected from shorter journeys. I constantly do a 12 mile return journey, and my engine oil, gearbox oil and water temp are all up to operating temp, at both ends of the journey when checked with a diagnostic, even during the winter. The hybrid system may just be in use for enough of your commute to allow moisture to build up in the system and cause it though, as my results are from a normal non hybrid ICE unit.

Caramel wheel

As above, I’d fit the bilstein B6. I have them on mine and they completely change the entire drive and handling of the car. The OEM monroe’s are terrible.

Bilsteins. Could be the top mounts rattling if nothing else is obvious.

Usual suspects would be top mounts/bearing and bottom arms. My front lower arm rear bushes had that much flex in them, they were allowing the arm to make a metallic noise when it moved enough to make contact with the subframe. Most other items should have enough obvious play when checked with a bar or by hand, drop links, heat shields etc.

Air pipes or intercooler pipes loose or split possibly.

I always fit Michelin. Just personal preference in my case. P4’S on my wife’s car and PS5 on mine. although I only run those during the summer and then they get a different set of rims with Michelin alpin for the winter months.

Mine idles just below 750rpm in D and around the 1000rpm in S. Any chance the selector is being pulled slightly past D and engaging S, causing the rise in revs?

My auto locking has been playing up recently with all 4 doors showing short to ground. OSR failed completely yesterday and wouldn’t open at all. Ordered a new lock from TPS. £250

Phone right next to seat so slightly louder than it actually is in car when I listen back to the video, but gives an idea. I’ve had to keep it short so it posts the video as well. IMG_5898.mov

Trying to update from this to the latest file. Is that too much of a jump? downloaded from portal and extracted, then transferred to a 64gb SD set to exfat. System shows no update available when card entered and update initiated in system settings.

I normally use mine on 1 which you wouldn’t know was on at all (sound wise). 3 you can hear but it isint what I would call loud or noisy imo. I can get you a video in the morning if that helps any.

Only noise I’ve had on the rear of mine would be described more as a rumble and it was the rear lower arm bushes.

Concrete acid sprayed on while wearing gloves and a mask will sort the rear of the wheels. Spray on and start agitating straight away with a detailing brush. Rinse off straight away and turn and rinse opposite side of rim as well. Then wash as usual with wheel cleaner and rinse well again. don’t let the acid dry on the rim, same as any wheel cleaner.

It’ll be the lower arms or the roll bar bushes on the front.

Sorry. Read comment but attention went elsewhere and I forgot due to struggling with a TBI that’s getting worse recently. There was a slight difference. Few mm from what I remember, but short term memory is taking a kicking, so can’t recall exactly what I measured it at. All aligned spot on and drives without issue. not long ago fitted a set of powerflex bushes to OEM arms on a friends 280, which felt slightly more solid when driving, but he messaged yesterday to say he though after a long drive he’d heard a one off creak from OSF arm, so is now going to monitor it and see if the noise is actually returning again even with polys fitted. other than an oil and filter and new lower arms every year, I’m not sure what the long term answer is to this issue. Everything seems to have problems. I know of some who have pressed Solid bushes from S3 into the arms only for the creak to appear again as well. so far mine are ok, but long term I’m honestly not holding out hope.

I just fitted a set of the OEM plugs to my 272 as a lot of tuners I contacted say, even at stage 2 say they are more than capable of running the extra power. At this point I’ve seen no indication from my own car that, that is anything but correct.

5Q0407183F

DQ381 with revo software for the box and a pedal box. Makes the car a bit more likely to be in the correct gear, but my usual lazy mode driving still causes the box to be too high when needed on the odd occasion. A lot better than the factory settings, and I can actually use sport instead of extra throttle to be in the correct gear for boost without a heavier throttle causing the sudden lift your speaking of. it’s not perfect, but it’s better than the fuel economy chasing settings the OEM software runs, where I constantly found myself in 7th at 30 and a bit mph with a box that was reluctant to change down on a light throttle input for say, a slight incline.

Try spraying the anti roll bar bushes with silicone spray and test car. If still there, spray the bushes in the lower arms and test again. Should help narrow down which bush is causing the creak.

APR do a decent reliable coil pack if you need them rather than OEM, if it’s still there after the plugs are changed.

Plugs or coils was my first guess. sounded like a plug or coil breaking down under load. It’s also similar to what the focus RS does when it damages the BCM. I’d start with a set of OEM plugs though.