UndertheRadar

I have a set of diamond car mats in mine. Brilliant for keeping the interior clean and very well covered. 25% off today with discount code BLACK at checkout.

I had to pull my centre vent out as well and pad it as it recently started to rattle to. Its the one with the hazard switch. Didn’t post as someone else has already shown how to remove and where to pad.

I’ve fitted a few of their intake elbows and intake pipes for different people, and thought the build seemed spot on for the price. Especially when compared to several other more commonly used manufacturers and the prices they charge. Made me wonder about durability in comparison to the others as well and whether to recommend them to folks that ask over the other more expensive items.

As Chazzy has already said, its Reverse Osmosis water. Basically water from the tap ran through a certain amount of different types of filters (6 in my case) to leave it as pure as possible. At that point i can either use it to water the plants or use it for engine coolant etc knowing it won't cause scale or have any chemical traces left in it. When using it for the fish tank, i heat it in a 25 gallon drum to about 30 degrees and add reef salt until i get to the required level (1.024 or 32 ppt), aided by a circulation pump for mixing. The tank if interested is around about 1000ltrs including the sump and all the reactors and skimmers when filled and running. Probably more info than you wanted. lol.

I’ve a habit of using RO water in mine, as I make it in 5 gallon drums for my fish tank anyway.

G13 is a glycerin based coolant and has the silicat bag in the expansion bottle. G12++ is a glycol coolant. you should be able to mix them if you want, or if you replace your expansion bottle to remove the silicat bag, you can replace with G12 quite happily.

And you’ve been watching adds to get your credits up ever since. 😂

That seems like a good price for the pro kit. It’s something like £119 on Amazon?

Anyone with ObdEleven pro having issues connecting with IOS? friend contacted me earlier to ask if I knew of a problem as he can’t get his to work at all since the last update. His is version 2 I believe, running on an iPhone 11 Pro.

The primary is generally on the pump behind the intake manifold.

Quite a few years ago I severely damaged my spine in two places. So I get very finicky about comfortable seats. I find the seat more than comfortable, but the car itself rolls that much in Normal suspension setting that as you say, you have to hold yourself in the seat. This sets off my lower back and eventually my neck and leg goes on me. I have fixed this problem with an uprated rear anti roll bar. Sounds like a boy racer type fix, but it prevents the roll that necessitates the need to try and hold yourself on bends and turns. The seat I have quite low, with the base slightly raised at the front and the backrest is quite straight with very little recline. Wheel is up and out towards me, which leaves my wrist sitting nicely on the top of the rim.

Did they give a reason as to why their map might not be suitable with that particular unit. If as some do it’s vanes are adjusted for angle to give boost higher up, then it creates an increased lag response lower down. That may cause issues with boost control, fueling, intake etc and he may not want or be able to custom adjust the mapping to suit. It matters not anyway. Get it fixed and running and then go from there. It’ll give you many more years and happy miles once sorted. You also need to look on the bright side, If you’d bought a Q7, you’d be on about your 4th engine by now 🤣.

Does whoever mapped it not offer a money back guarantee within a certain time frame if your not happy? If so, get it fixed, revert it back to standard map and pick another tuner as already stated above. Also, as stated, one of the bigger names that’s very well trusted has 20% off at the minute.

If that’s what you go with, will littco not refurb your blown unit to drop costs even more? The 380X you mentioned is a modified is38 unit anyway. Ask the question and see if they clip them or not.

Has anyone pulled the plugs and scoped the cylinders? Did they check to make sure the turbo wasn’t a byproduct of no oil rather than no oil being a byproduct of a blown turbo. Just to be sure and cover your bases. While the plugs were out I’d isolate the fuel pump and do a compression test as well. Obviously after topping with oil and turning by hand first, but after checking the cylinders and tops of the pistons.

If you don’t mind sending it across the water, look up MCM turbos over here in Ballymoney. Contact Peter and ask him for his opinion.

A lot of the Revo dealers work out of their own quite competent garages. Some only install revo software and others fit hardware as well. The hardware installers will not just install revo products, and will normally have a fully functional garage facility for normal servicing work. They will though be used to the tuning end of things and be more aware of who to use for certain products and rebuild specifics. So they won’t just want to fit a new “Revo” turbo. There will be other very good installers with the same ability and knowledge. You could also try some of the VW forums for the likes of the golf or scirocco R’s and see who is tuning and rebuilding units for those guys and girls in your area. At this point and until stripped and proven otherwise, assume your housing is intact or repairable during a rebuild.

You don’t need a new OEM unit. You already have one!!!!!!! Find one of the bigger better known names for tuning. I don’t know where you are, but Revo hardware installers or Celtic tuning spring to mind. Someone a lot more reputable than the muppets your dealing with at the minute. I can’t remember the last time we actually had to fit a brand new turbo to anything. They are sent to someone over here we’ve reliably used for years. It’s rebuilt to OEM or upgraded spec and refitted to the vehicle again. It’s such a simple task to carrry out without all this nonsense your having your head filled with by the garages your talking to. Stop looking at makes of turbos and getting in a panic. The one you have is easily fine for stage 2 if built again correctly. What you need to research is a bloody useful garage instead. Even if it’s a slight hassle to get the car there, it will be worth it for many years to come instead of using complete idiots because they’re handy to you. Sorry, but I’m getting annoyed at the shocking advice you’ve been given locally (not forum) since this happened.

Our workshop schematic was showing the dq381 as a 40k interval same as the the dq250. For the sake of an oil change, I’ll not be going beyond 4yrs-40k with my own. Just read the above listing. Wondering if there a difference between the front drive and 4wd variant?

I’d say it’s your battery starting to drop off, which shows more on a cold morning.

There are specialists who will rebuild the turbo you have now to an upgraded specification for less than the price of either an OEM unit or a brand new upgraded unit. It’s not nice when these things happen, but it’s not the end of the world either. It can be fixed. The main thing is to make sure the map is reliable when you have the car sorted. I’ll be using revo as they have a list of safety features built into their mapping to help avoid over stressing units, due to muppets who nail the life out of the poor thing from cold, and ingnore spool up/down times entirely to name only a couple.

Firstly, I suspect they’re running it too high. You will know if it’s rebuilt properly (may as well upgrade it now) and then tested, to see if it’s higher and therefore you have comeback with original map installer. Secondly, there’s a 4yr old S8 in the workshop getting two new turbos fitted as the strainer for the oil feed blocked with just shy of 24k miles on the car, so don’t discount starvation issues. I wouldn’t fit a brand new one. Should be a good few capable of rebuilding it well beyond standard spec and therefore future proofing it.

Have the turbo removed and rebuilt with stronger internals. Also replace feed and return pipes. When running again, check and see how much boost it’s running.

Sent you a PM

I’m not sure if telling you exactly where to take it breaks any forum rules reference advertising or not. So, Take it to the industrial estate behind castlereagh tech. If you go down Alanbrooke road, you’ll find a garage facing the staff car park for Thales. The bloke who owns it has the same name as the start of the road you’ll be on. So does his business. Knows the boxes inside out and repairs them on a daily basis.