UndertheRadar

If the switch pack was to say, fry itself before it made it to the dealer. Then it would be quite clearly a fault

Cheers. I have two of those in my set, so it’s just been me today. I’ll sort it out in the morning when I’m in better form and can concentrate properly. Ive an annoying creak coming from either the screen or the frame behind it. A slight touch on the bevel while driving is enough to stop it completely. So I just need to drop it forward enough to add some padding tape behind it, Hopefully!!

I see Mercedes have finally named a vehicle after the method they use to work out the price of their parts.

Does anyone know the exact key needed for removing the Columbus 2.5 unit? Ive my usual and generally quite trusty 40 piece set here and none of the usual suspects fit. my heads not quite right today (chronic migraines) and just checking incase it’s me before I order more keys/pins. cheers folks.

We had a traders policy, so at 19 I was driving a 24V Carlton. Always loved the Rover turbos though. Had a 220 turbo coupe, several 620ti’s and a couple of 820 vitesse’s. This 272 sort of reminds me of a modern version of the latter two.

Those wee Uno turbos were great craic. Friend of mine had one at the time, and was pulled over for inappropriate acceleration😂. Think he changed it for a Renault 5 turbo. Another great fun wee motor. I’d a Mk2 Astra at the time with a modded calibra turbo engine, that confused folks as it should have been a 1.6. Good times!!

It’s a scam. I’ve had three already this week. There’s a warning on gov website if you google it.

Can’t think it will make it to auction. It’s probably been underwritten by either a supermarket as stated above or by a non franchised dealer. A main dealer would have to allow for billable’s such as caliper refurbishment, to return them to factory finish, checking for contamination of paint on seals etc. The aftermarket rims would have to be replaced with genuine wheels to mitigate liability with Chinese copies cracking and causing an accident (worst case always assumed). This would again be billable to the vehicle. The module can be reflashed to factory standard, but the fact it has been mapped means disclosing this to future owner. This removes the engine and drivetrain from the remainder of the manufacturers warranty. Therefore they can’t offer it as a used approved Skoda vehicle. Therefore it’s not a main dealer forecourt retail car. nothing wrong with it whatsoever, it’s just the way the sector works.

You’d have to buy it trade from the dealer, so I’d be going in several thousand less than that, seeing as it’s not a forecourt retail vehicle. Not running it down either. It’s just the way it works.

The front is no different to any other you’ll have done. The rears with Electric park brake need to be set in service mode with a diagnostic or OBDEleven etc before pushing the piston back.

Finance? I just assumed you’d that much money in your account from not having bought an Xbox or a PS5 that you’d just be buying it cash?

To be honest, I’ve always found the more powerful the car I’m driving the more lazy and laid back I become, and the easier I drive.

Yes.

I’ve a 272 with DCC and it acts exactly the same as your description. I’ll probably end up with a set of Bilsteins and Eibach springs to sort the issue out. The standard set up is an absolute joke, IMO!!

I always use these covers on my keys instead.

The rears are heated only, but the fronts are ventilated. I find the cold air after a short while gives you a funny sensation that can get uncomfortable to say the least. My last Mercedes had ventilated seats, my Jag still does and my wife’s last S Max had front ventilated seats as well. The cold air in all of them gives me the same feeling. 🙁

I’m here for a similar reason, only coming from a V8 Mercedes. It got that bad the parts department had memorised my chassis number 😂. my DCC is good but the shocks are, well, shocking. Might change the springs as I find them very clunky. The heated wheel is brilliant, but every ventilated seat I’ve ever had just makes me feel like I’ve wet myself, which is not as funny when your sober. I don’t have paddles but don’t miss them either. Pull the selector back to activate sport and it completely changes the gear change parameters, to the point I wouldn’t be a***d doing it manually. I get anywhere between 23-44mpg, which is better than 8, so that’s a bonus. I also preferred the look of the sport line, but went with the L&K due to the spec instead. You could wrap the chrome if it bothered you that much. With a couple of mods to the intake and something like a Revo stage 1 ( other mappers available) and DSG map, you should see around 380 bhp’ish. great yoke though for just wafting about in, and the fact everyone thinks it’s an unmarked cop car (silver estate) doesn’t do any harm either. enjoy your drive home.

newbie69 has just started a post on DCC compatible Bilstein B6 units.

Happy days!! That’ll make it far easier when I need to order mine. 😀 Oh, I mean, Glad you got sorted. 👍

Actually, now I’ve paid more attention to it for myself, ring them and get them to check the listing is actually placed properly on the EBC site. They seem to be listing the rears as 300mm solid instead of 310mm vented. Looks like a fault with EBC themselves rather than the retailer.

My rears are vented and I also noticed their listing showed solid rear discs. If you ring the EBC brake shop or EBC brakes direct, the guys are normally super helpful. Might be a case of their uprated rear discs don’t need to be vented to allow cooling due to the grooves or drilled aspect or material used. I’m sure they can explain the listing they have or realise they should be vented and give you a new part number. either way, it’ll put your mind at ease.

When mines out of warranty it’s getting an R600 air box with foam filter, intake pipe and elbow, stage 1 Revo, possibly resonator delete and I need to sort my suspension as it’s horrendously crashy and not very well controlled at all. (Think, small ruts feel like driving off a cliff) Forgot, it’ll be getting EBC discs (maybe BSD’s or similar) and yellowstuff pads. if I want more than that, I’ll just nip down the shops and buy an RS6 Avant

If you can still hear it at the top end of the Rev range then I’d check the internals. I couldn’t possibly condone it, but I know folks who have blocked feed pipes and driven the car until the turbo failed, so they could have it replaced under warranty.

Sorry, my mistake. Misread the original post as you’d bought it 1 yr old. Has it gotten any louder since purchase, or has it remained the same. Does it do it under load right through the Rev range while accelerating, or just in the range specified and then go quiet from say, 2000rpm or so upwards. Does the engine use any oil?

Mine is almost silent to be honest, even under heavy load. Normally with a louder than normal spool I’d be checking vacuum pipes or even looking for a split in an intercooler pipe. Also a long shot, but did the previous owner fit a muffler delete by any chance. A plain black one could be missed by a dealer tech, and most will just plug it in, and if no codes are stored, they’ll tell you it’s normal. Is it definitely turbo related, or could it be some of the ancillaries on the offside. Pulley bearing or alternator perhaps?