UndertheRadar

The amount of starters/alternators/flywheels and even timing chains we replace is ridiculous, and has been for years since this idea was introduced. I know these items get replaced in time anyway, but these are now failing with tiny mileage on them when town driven in particular. Stop start alternator/starter on a Citroen a few months back with 34k and 5yrs old for example was £1900 as dealer only part. These items years ago lasted 80k-100k plus miles, with obviously the odd exception. From a genuine engineering perspective, I would love someone who has more knowledge on the environmental side of things, to talk through the numbers with me. I can’t get my head round how the stop start actually helps in any way. Yes, I get the emissions aspect. But that has to be dwarfed by the factory’s that have had to double or treble output for all these components that are failing twice as early and in a lot of cases even sooner due to the wear the system creates. Anyway, that’s my rant for the morning 😂. Hope you get the motor sorted!!

I think someone bought them over during lockdown. Do revo do a map for that unit? I’m a fan of their built in safety features.

Mine is August 19. So about a month of the FL version. It had every option fitted except the towbar. List was 46k odd. I gave just over 27k for it at 5 months old. It’s an L&K and has the virtual dash fitted anyway. The new lights will be great until they fail outside of warranty and then you’ll wish you didn’t have them. I’ve had my O/S light unit replaced under warranty for a motor fault just after getting the car. Last car we had issues with was a 4yr old CLS Merc. Led lights were giving bother and in the end needed 2 new units fitted. Cost 5.5k for the parts alone. So I think what I’m trying to say in a long winded way (as usual) is don’t hold out for these new matrix yokes as a be all and end all feature. I would hold out if you can for a wee while longer to see what starts to appear with the reg change though.

Ask them what the names are in the tax book. Might be demo or management car and then 1 private owner, who either didn’t get on with it or cause of Covid had to sell it on (who knows). Ask for a video walk through and any damage on wheels or dents etc to be pointed out in video, so you have the request set out as proof you asked in an email. Ask about damage or paintwork etc as well. Ideally I’d want it serviced before you get it as well. These extended service intervals are daft. 10k every 12 months is max I’ll run to. Bought mine from the mainland and had it shipped over that way, as wasn’t that well and couldn’t be annoyed travelling. I know I’m in the North, but Johnston transport brought mine over for me and were absolutely fantastic about pick up and delivery etc. I’ve a feeling they come in through the port in Dublin anyway, so might be another option to try for you as well. The warranty will cover you anyway, and any hassle can be run up here to get it looked at, but can’t see why you’d have to. Any Skoda dealer will cover it.

Disable stop start. It’s a horrendous, mechanically unsympathetic disaster of an idea.

Most of those should be fine. Make sure the caliper slides are well cleaned and free, and that the pad seats are clean as well. Wire brush the seats where the pads sit as this helps avoid noise from a pad not sitting flat against the disc. alternatively, if you want to check EBC prices, you can look up EBC brake shop U.K. and check their basic pad and disc prices. I always use a ceramic race pad in mine and their better Grooved BSD discs as it’s a fantastic combination. But that’s me!! they are listing Standard OEM replacement pads for £65 front and £25 rear and OEM discs from £80 for mine, so you could stick your car details in and check anyway as an alternative if you wish. Your local motor factors will also be able to supply you with a range of different makes and guide you on their level of quality as well.

As e-Roottoot has said above, the other side of the disc could be the issue. You could use an inspection mirror and a torch, or it’s hard to beat taking the wheel off and sticking your head in. If the pad material is the same on the inside pad as the outer in your pic, And the rear of the disc is the same as the face in your pic, I’d leave it until the pads wear down and replace both at that point. Front pads for mine were £140 a set and rear pads were something like £70 from memory. I have found over the years that cheap pads squeal and drive people nuts and then they come back complaining and disc wear quickly and are more expensive in the long run. My last set of front pads on a merc jeep were still going strong with 50k on them.

Thanks. I will be running these as dedicated winters on 18’s and swapping back to the factory 19’s during summer months.

Fitting them to a 4x4 Superb. living in N.I, but like to be prepared just incase we get any snow, as I have to drive up the side of a mountain to get home.

Get your Indy to take a photo showing the reason they believe the shocks to be faulty. Either take that to the main dealer or post it back here for a more informed response.

I need to order a set of winters, and wondered if anyone had any experience or opinions, on either the Michelin pilot alpin 5/6 or Continental Contiwintercontact ts 850p Before I order some.

Generally a sledge from the back onto the tyre gets the wheel to come off. I always use an anti seize on the hubs and wheel nuts and have never had an issue with any of my own vehicles. You can use red rubber grease or pure silicon grease or copper slip, whatever your preference really. As long as you have something on it. The wheels should be off every year or every other year at least to check and clean/adjust brakes anyway. I lube the Hub face when fitting discs, and then the face of the disc itself where it mates with the wheel.

Not the first time I’ve come across this issue. Rear doors have the same problem when the latch fails, and getting the door card off in one piece to replace latch is a disaster. I would always try to drill where a grommet can be placed to cover the trim where possible. I’m sure you’d fine a trim piece in a scrap yard or on eBay if needed.

Bought mine end of january/start of February and brought it across the water. I was expecting prices to fall to be honest, but they are sitting about 2-3k more now than they were then for the same car, if you could actually find one.

It only works if you think in Russian!!

SUV tyre is bigger and heavier due to sturdier material being used for load rating. They also have a more off road orientated tread pattern.

I only tried it once over entire car to see how it left the finish. it’s far too slow as you say. I can be round the entire car with a large woolly mammoth in a quarter of the time. I’ll mainly be using it in the same way you use yours. It’s just the bigger blo is set to run 30c above ambient temp, and the dual motors work faster and are more effective on wheels and callipers etc, compared to its smaller sibling. I’d have been content just using it to stop my mirror dripping on its own.

It would depend on individual vehicles or colour applications etc. It is expensive though. the only Person to apply it over here is Elite Refinish. You can look it up on Facebook if you have it. (I don’t, used wife’s). He’s on braniel road. think he’s uploaded a few videos showing the results and level of protection it gives. he might be able to give you a better idea of cost or other individuals in your area that use it if you message him direct. He’s the only sprayer in N.I that is using the P1 system so applications may be limited in most areas.

I don’t really watch much of his stuff to be honest. My youngest does though, as I come across it while checking his watch history. Anything like that is just plain daft not to have it covered. Some of the self healing PPF films are brilliant these days, and getting harder to spot when applied. I don’t know what yours is like, but the front of my Superb picks up stone chips like there’s no tomorrow. Was already to far gone to cover when I bought it at 5 months old. I’m going to get through this winter with it and then have it painted properly, hence the reason I’d looked at the P1 coating to protect it once it has a finish I can cope with. The P1 can take a serious hammering, and yet just peels off to leave the paintwork underneath in perfect condition and can then be coated again. So similar to PPF but tougher.

Ive seen PPF on plenty of vehicles, and it seems to work very well. Although recently i saw a P1 coating and it was a far superior product IMO. Just waiting to see if a P1 coating can be sanded or hit with the DA without any adverse affect.

There is a smaller version called the RS, but the GT is the one you'd need for a bigger motor. You'd only regret not spending the extra after you'd used the smaller one a few times. Probably best to purchase a set of ear defenders as well, just to protect your listeners.

It’s basically as stated above. Think of it as a big hair dryer for cars. You can use it in door shuts or body lines and mirrors etc, or anywhere that traps water. You can dry the entire body if you wish, completely contactless. last thing you’d want while something like a ceramic coat was curing, is water dripping from somewhere onto it.

I went out and purchased myself a BLO recently, and i can honestly say, its put a real smile on my face. Its the GT twin motor version, and its makes some job of drying paintwork and very easily. The main reason i picked it up was because my drivers door mirror seems to hold more fluid than my washer bottle after cleaning the car. I've literally seen water running out of it 3 days after washing the car. It was driving me nuts streaking on the door panel. This has fixed the issue completely and my OCD is back in check (for now).

Yes, very likely the caliper is seized. Given the mileage you've driven with it in that condition, if thats whats at fault (very likely), theres no chance your discs have survived. They'll be the same shape as an old wax record. Best get them changed with new pads as well. It'll be like a new car when you get it back.

No worries. Wasn’t sure which buttons you’d actually held to try at first. Was going to say a battery disconnect for 30mins and then connect again, but your already thinking that way already.