Gabrielem

Se ven bastante bien. Acabo de leer en un foro en español que recomiendan estas bombillas. ¿Los conoces? Estaría a 6500k. https://www.heartraylight.com/heartray-4th-gen-d3s-oem-hid-xenon-bulb.html https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005002904918411.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.72443c00nIDK8P&mp=1

I do not think it is legal in Spain either, but in the ITV they are not going to measure the Kelvin nor are they going to remove the light bulb. What I do have a doubt is whether CBB in rain is effective ...

It is best to find the Osram Nightbreaker or Osram coolblueboost at a good price, although in rainy conditions I think it does not look good ...

Perhaps the best option is an Osram Nightbreaker, by the way, they give a whiter light than oem bulbs?

Thank you very much. I think the best thing would be to put some quality xenon bulbs that are somewhat whiter than my yellowish oem.

Has anyone done the conversion from xenon to led?

sorry it was a problem with the smartphone. delete it and i get it right. Thanks.

Quería actualizar mis bombillas de xenón OEM para el Osram Nightbreaker pero últimamente su precio no deja de subir (como todo lo demás) y un amigo me ha dicho que busque una conversión de xenón a led, ya conoces una bombilla fiable y el de la luz blanca y no el azul? ¿Mejor que el xenón? Entiendo que con lluvia es inferior al xenón ... English translation:- I wanted to update my OEM xenon bulbs for the Osram Nightbreaker but lately its price keeps going up (like everything else) and a friend has told me to look for a xenon to led conversion, you already know a reliable bulb and the light white and not blue? Better than xenon? I understand that with rain it is inferior to xenon

I would add the trunk as well. But it is true what is most noticeable are the doors. Until I did the doors, the rest of the applications do not have a substantial improvement, perhaps an improvement can be seen but it is very small. Those of you who have double glass on the front doors if you will notice a lot of improvement.

I have finally been able to measure with the iPhone app that I measured the other time on the same stretch of highway in Madrid (M40). Measurements have been 61db at 90 km / h, 63 dB at 100 and 65db at 120 km / h, it has reduced it by about 6-7 db on average, a great success. To be honest that stretch of road is smooth but the gain I can extrapolate to any road. Remember that I have done, not at a professional level, trunk, B-pillar, wheel arches, engine hood and all 4 doors. It is a lot of work and about 200 euros, but it is worth it. The biggest source of noise today is the rear view mirrors.

Totally agree, yes, now you will hear other noises that you did not know before ... Now the noise that is most heard is that of the exterior rear-view mirrors.

I continue with my search for shock absorbers, in the beginning the idea was the Koni Special Active or Bilstein B12, but I already used the Bilsteins in a Ford Focus and after 3 years they became hard and uncomfortable. I do not know if the Koni will be too hard to travel as a family. Now a friend has ridden Sachs twin tube and says the car is firmer and drives better than the garbage ZF shock absorbers. Will they be like the Bilstein B4? In any case, to make matters worse I carry the PPD suspension or for roads in poor condition and I don't know what springs other than the Eibach Pro kit to put to lower the car a bit, since the normal or sportline in Skoda are worth more than 500 euros , just the springs. Thanks in advance.

Todo se seguirá escuchando pero más suave y el exterior más lejano y atenuado. No podrás hacer un estudio de grabación pero la mejora es notable.

I foolishly used a heat gun to make tweeter removal Tweeter, but it wasn't necessary. 50 euros cost me a new one in the Skoda.😕

The same thing happened to me with the anchors that I ordered on aliexpress, I suppose they will be the same from Amazon, I solved it with three small strips of fabric tape with a slit to fit into place, a positive set of these anchors is that they are thicker than the ones oem so they fit in the same way but they hold the inner door panel better. As for the central screw, a magnetized key is necessary and if it does not screw in properly, you have to see if you have to pull up or lower the door panel because sometimes it does not fit well.

I have finally finished the doors (noico 0.4, 10mm kaiflex and 30mm wavy kaiflex) and now you can really tell the difference. cars passing by can be heard far away, and driving close to a wall is not so unpleasant. It has cost me a lot of work and I know I could have done it better, but for the time I had and myself, it turned out quite well.

everything works but does not detect the open door ...

so I have connected it and something has gone wrong. The car does not detect the door if it is open. I don't know if it will be a fuse or the switchboard. What can be? and the lights don't work.

I need urgent help! I have everything disassembled, where do I connect in my car? does not match yours ...

So far I have done, trunk, wheel arches and B-pillar. In these 3 steps I have not noticed a major change, but with only 1 door the change has been considerable. It is nothing really complicated, but it does take work, especially cleaning well with solvent, cutting and flattening with the roller. I have used Noico 0.4 and "kaiflex" from Aliexpress, I am not very happy with AE products, but for the price they have I cannot complain. The worst thing for me has been removing the buttons from the driver's door windows, 2 more centimeters of cable would have been great. Buy some staples because they break when pulling and cloth tape to remove shackles. AE staples are not the same as OEM, and they do not fit well, so you have to use cloth tape, and they are perfect. Check each staple for movement and use cloth tape. I have also put new speakers and tweeters (Focal) with the Columbus radio and the change has also been important. When it's all over, I'll report.

I did one of the front doors yesterday. I made a rookie mistake by overheating the tweeter cap and melting it, tomorrow I'll look for another one that sure isn't cheap. The change is brutal. This is very noticeable, the noise reduction is amazing, considering that it really only had the driver's door finished. I hope to finish 4 this week.

where are the fuel lines?

It would be interesting to see your passat in photos. I understand that the Koni Special Active raise the body with standard springs? A B6 and Eibach Pro kit could be a better option? The thicker rear rubber buffers are those of the Audi TT ?? Thanks!!

After doing the forward steps as well, I would be hard-pressed to tell if there is improvement or not. Perhaps there is a more attenuated noise, but quantifying it in decibels would be difficult. I will do some measurements with the iPhone app that I did a few months ago for the same section and I will check. Currently I can say that it does not compensate the work with the result.

Hello! I continue with the soundproofing, yesterday I did the rear wheel arches from the outside. Noico of 0.4 mm and kaiflex of 8mm from Aliexpress, in 5o kms by highway in Madrid I have not noticed anything from the front. To say that this stretch of highway is quite smooth. Today I will do the front wheels and as soon as I have time the doors.