Gabrielem

Hello again. When I checked the rear discs and pads (which still have the ATE ceramic pads), I noticed they were cracked, with perpendicular cracks. I also noticed that the vibration when braking comes from the pedal and the floor, so I think the rear pads have also eaten away the original discs. I've already ordered replacements with ATE discs and TRW pads. I don't know why I still trust ATE after such a mess. Maybe I should have used TRW discs and pads. @Carlston

There shouldn't be any problems with the caliper pistons. The car only has 130,000 km, and where I live there aren't any humidity or salt problems. But I'll check it and grease it. Thank you very much.

I didn't know that. Thanks a lot! I'm going to measure the discs and hubs with a dial indicator in case anything's bent. I installed the ATE ceramic discs in the hour.

How do you see if the discs are directional?

I understand that the problem could be that the caliper does not return correctly and overheats the disc?

On a Skoda Superb mk3 4x4. I had the brilliant idea of installing Ate ceramic front pads. After a few thousand miles, it started vibrating. I thought it would go away with the mileage, but it didn't. In the meantime, I also installed Ate ceramic rear pads. Since the vibrations were really annoying, I changed the discs and pads, installing highly carbonized Ate discs and TRW pads, keeping the stock discs and Ate ceramic rear pads. Well, just like last time, after 2-3 thousand miles, the vibrations started again. I don't know what it could be or what to change. Thank you very much.

I'm updating this thread because I just replaced the 4 Primacy 4 tires with 45,000 km for the new Primacy 5 tires and installed them at the specialist workshop where I installed the Koni SA tires. There are no vibrations whatsoever, and the car runs better than when I bought it.

I DO NOT recommend the ATE Ceramic front pads. They've eaten away at the discs in just 20,000 km, and they vibrate a lot when braking. Furthermore, the pads have barely worn down over those 20,000 km, so all they do is not stain the rim. I'm going to switch to OEM.

I'm refloating the hose because my little daughter kicked the grate and broke it just like what happened to you. I also need the piece you made but I don't have a 3D printer, how could I do it?? I'm waiting to get an extension for the vacuum cleaner, I hope the Karcher WD3 can rescue the piece from the bottom of the tube. Thanks!

Hello everyone. Since I bought the car, when I make 90° turns on the street I have noticed that the rear wheels are pulling, as if they are getting stuck, it only happens in tight turns in 1st gear. It has 110k kms (68k mi) and oil changes every 35k kms (21k mi). At 70k kms (42k mi) I cleaned the pump and I have had the last change for 15k kms (9,300 mi). I don't know if it's because the asphalt is very dry and the wheels grip more (primacy 4 at 70%) or if it's a worse and more serious breakdown. I don't know if it would be advisable to reset the pump with OBD11 but I don't know how to do it or if I should do a new oil change with pump cleaning. Thank you very much in advance.

Here everyone decides. And I repeat myself more than garlic, but the LED is far superior to the XENON. And that with the 45W stock ballasts, if you change ballasts and go up to 55W the gain is brutal. On Drive.ru there are several opinions that explain this.

A couple of pages ago I commented, in March 2023, my installation of 3DS LEDs instead of xenon. But a year later and many kilometers traveled, with the heat and cold of Spain, I have had no problems and the lighting is far superior to xenon, even with new bulbs (I did the test).

The problem is not the G13 or the silicate bag. The problem is in the "watercooler", it is a fault known by the brand and the repair is not cheap. I have filled 1.1 liter of coolant for 90k kms. TDI 2.0 190 HP 4x4.

I have KONI SA and I do not recommend them under any circumstances. Very good advertising, very poor quality and fit.

I don't know, but I can recommend that you use microfiber cloths and an interior cleaner like Carpro Inner QD.

Take advantage and install LEDs. Many best.

We had already commented on it in several threads, and we still think the same about the Koni Special Active. Please don't forget to tell us the difference between the Koni and the B6. I also installed front and rear torsion bars from the Golf R, much better and I don't even rule out installing a more rigid rear.

Skoda Superb mk3 190 TDI 4x4 COMBI. 7,4 l/100km. I use both city and radial roads. On highway 6.8 at 120km/h. at 150-160 km/h 7.2 l/100km.

Upgrade to LED. Much better than xenon in all conditions. More than a year of use with automatic lights (parking lots, tunnels...) and without problems driving at night for hours, https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001334556236.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.4c6a194dvQuvdL&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp New model.

Buenas tardes. Sigo teniendo los mismos problemas con los amortiguadores KONI Special Active. Las delanteras se aflojaron, si, se aflojaron, y tuve ruidos durante 2 o 3k kms. Fui al instalador y a otro taller y al final tuve que buscar el problema, que se solucionó con un apretón de manos. Pero todavía tengo los ruidos en la parte de atrás. Es como si en pequeños baches a baja velocidad no absorbieran porque suena como un ruido sordo. En carretera y autovía van bien, pero el 80% del tiempo estoy en ciudad o vías radiales con velocidad limitada. Cito a @Carlston para ver si su experiencia puede arrojar algo de luz sobre el asunto. Recuerdo la configuración de resorte y amortiguador que instalé. -Resortes helicoidales Lesjofors 4095137 ( 5Q0411105GN ) y 4295136 ( 3Q0511115M ) -Kit de servicio SACHS 900 358 -Koni Especial Activo 8745-1388 y 8245-1387 La semana que viene vuelvo al taller de instalación para que me revisen todo. En caso de que los ruidos continúen me haré a un lado e instalaré Sachs de dos tubos y pondré a la venta el kit Koni. Una gran decepción y 1300 euros muy mal gastados. A quienes estén indecisos sobre la creación de KONI SA les recuerdo que elijan cualquier otra opción excepto ésta.

Thank you. After reading everything I will not update it.

Did you change the light bulb first?

Use a contact cleaning spray. It will work.

Yes, but it is not broken, the use of the car has been in the city and some trips on the highway. They are only one year old and have 20k kms.

After only 20k km I had a clonk when turning left at low speed (leaving the garage or maneuvering when parking) the very frequent bumps make metallic knocks sound... I think it is the left mount, if someone can tell me If it could be something else I would appreciate it. What brands of suspension strut support mount are of equal or higher quality than the original ones? Thanks un avance. VID_20231003211126.mp4