Camlobe

To put things in conext, it would have been nice to know the age/mileage of the vehicle. My suspicion and probably that of a couple of other resondents is thatyou've had sticking pads. There is nothing very urgent to worry about here, although you may be heading towards a slightly painful/expensive next MoT. It is odd that the picture of the disk on the right looks so clean, while the other looks really quite poor. For me, sticking pads often become common once thhe vehicle is over five years old, usually for reasons that I don't really understand, rear first. There are several 'work-arounds', none of them perfect. If with your wheels, you can get a stick in to the disk, and you can bang it, a bit, you may be able to get some dust to come out, and, if you do, that's a good thing. An alternative is to look for when the fuel consumption is suspiciously poor, and run the afected side over catseyes, There is usually just enough play in the wheel bearing to push the pad back a little. To asses this, you really need a flat bit of road, and cruise control. I'd entirely understand if you felt that the suggestions made earlier were more likely to give you a long-term solution.

That AS2 should be 4S2. There a useful review here: https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2022-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm

I assume exploted = exploded, rather than exploited. I have Hankook AS2's (that 2 should probably be a superscript, but I've seen both) and I am quite happy. They last and the only disavages I see is that they are a bit noisy -probably typical for all seasons tyres, and there are ceretainly worse- and have no rim protection.

Sorry about not replying earler - got distracted by some personal issues - but my car does yjis thing of switcching between the hors setting and the minutes setting.

Thanks for the quick reply, but it didn't quite work for me. I can get to the time settings, no problem, I have (accidentally) reset the trip mileage, but of miles to service, there is no sign. Well unless it is zero. I need to dig out the bill, but this is a garage I haven'y used before, and the oil is fdirtier than I'd expect, if they had done the work. Ideally, I want to have my 'ducks in a row' before I go backto them.

I'm sure this should be obvious, but I can't spot it from a quick flick of the manual. Can you see, from the dash dislay when/how many miles it is predicted until the next service is due? I should be on variable service intervals (I should have been before, but I wasn't) and the garage who did my Mot should have changed the oil/filters, etc, but I suspect as there was more work in the MoT than they or I expected, they might have overlooked it, so I'dreally like to check what the due date/miles are showing, if I can.

I doubt I'll be able to help, but, to get helpful answers, you should be more specific. What did you install, what vehicle did you install it in. Did you install it, or did a professional installer do it, and does everything seem to be working apart from sound output?

I don't consider 80 k to be a big mileage, but - The bigger the mileage, the more you have to consider service history to be valuable - pref done by someone who knows what they are doing. Partic using the wrong oil is a no-no. Some colours are frankly undesirable, particularly the dull-ish maroon one, although you can spot them from a distance in a car park, which can't be said of every colour. Do not buy one of the bigger-engined petrol ones without reading the sticky thread called something like '1.8 and 2.0 litre engine failures.' I have some concerns with DSG gearbox - nice drive, in a relaxed kind of way, but I'm not that convinced by long term reliability, although that may be largely a preventative maintenance issue. The radio (Bolero, usually) isn't particularly well liked, but you have to remember it is a fairly old design, and a more modern ('unknown' oriental brand) radio could have more features, but some of them are reliable, and some aren't. In my view, the speakers aren't brilliant, in terms of bass. They perhaps do surprisingly well for their size, I suppose, but are small. If you have more specific issues, please ask. Not sure I'll be able to answer, but if you don't ask,you won't find out.

Potentially, assuming you want to do a good job, there is a lot of work, there, and there is not information as to whether that is likely to prove worthwhile. If you want to do a minimal job, that's probably significantly less work. I think if you ask the tester how much they'd want to clear it up, you'd probably be shocked by the cost, and decide it wasn't worthwhile, at their rates. Rust has a habit of coming back. as the conditions that caused the rusting, first time, are usually still there, just second time, it already has a bit of a head start. Sorry to take such a negative approach, but superficially I think the 'minimal' approach looks like the only one that has much chance offering reasonable. cost-effectiveness Is this on a 2008 car?

I'n pretty much on the same page as Ken on this one. I have used engine flush in the dim and distant past, but wouldn't now. While engine flush is in the engine, it has to act as the lubricant, and I have no evidence that, as a lubricant, it is good enough. You can perhaps minimise any damage by not leaving it for long, but then you'd be concerned about whether it does enough flushing. Broadly, if you are using shorter oil change intervals - which you are already - that should be enough. And yes, Diesels are dirty, but that's the way it was during engine development, so should be already taken into account.

When I originally got mine (petrol), the previous cheapskate owner had fitted a Halfords-branded 42 AH thing. This had a two year guarantee and predictably outlasted the guarantee period by about five minutes and was generally marginal. I looked at the Tayna (so spelt!) website, and they had a Varta 60 Ah number with a longer guarantee than the Halfords inadequate thing, delivered, for less money. Not a difficult decision to make. One warning about battery fitting is that they are not lightweight items, and if it is possible to have a mate around when fitting, that can be helpful. Generally, Varta and Bosch offer very similar products, but the Varta item is usually slightly cheaper. I'd have also considered Yuasa, but they didn't really have a competitive option when I looked.

Broadly, I agree with Warrior. The cranking voltage is definitely on the low side, and that probably explains why cranking is sluggish, but that just changes the question to why is the cranking voltage low and what can you do about it. My assumption is that the battery itself -decent brand, relatively recent - is unlikely to be the cause, although you can go around the circuit looking for where the voltage drops are. It is probably also worth noting that, since this is a fairly rapidly changing voltage, you can get a different absolute value depending on how closely you, or your test equipment, looks. I'd be tempted to re-look at the cleaning of the high current connections. Remember, with the high currents involved, it only needs a slightly suspect connection to cause a problem. Potential clue: if any part of the circuit gets warm after cranking, concentrate your attention there. Alternatively, you may have detectable voltage drops, although looking for those may be a two-person job, due to the need to have the dexterity of an octopus, all while the engine is cranking.

I'm not trying to be deliberately unhelpful, but my answer to the initial question, is no. Looking at tyrecompare (https://www.tyrecomp.co.uk/car-tyres/225-35-r19.htm) there is very little choice in that size - as close to no choice as I remember seeing. I'm currently running Hancook AS2s, in 225/40/18s and I am quite happy with them. The car was initially on 205s, but I wanted all seasons, because there are some circumstances under which I have to make journeys, and I don't have the option of waiting for the weather to get better. Knowing that you give away a little grip in changing from 'Summers' to 'All seasons' my solution was to put a bit more rubber on the road, and that part seems to have worked well. The Hankooks are a bit noisier than the best summer tyre would be, but I'm prepared to live with that. One thing that did surprise me was how good the Hankooks are with respect to wear (I'd guess the same would be true of Michelins, but generally these are not the soft rubber /high wear tyres that I was slightly expecting). Habitually, I would have used summer tyres and had to change fronts after slightly more than a year. I'm currently on about 20 months, and the fronts are probably a shade over half worn. In an ideal world, I'd have put 17's on rather than 18s, and had a bit more comfort (it isn't bad,but that would have been ideal) but I couldn't find the wheels cheaply. HTH

On my elegance (so a way down the model range from a VRS) I can do stuff like adjust the volume or skip tracks from the left, or step through the various display modes (consumption, speed in kph (why?), distance travelled, remaining range on the left, and while what is displayed is 'tweekable' in the settings menu, I am surprised that a vrs doesn't have at least these available

I don't want to come across as a killjoy, but I have a concern that you may be underestimating the difficulties. Firstly, one of the difficulties with the android audio kit is that not all of the models are reliable. So the first thing is to find a reliable one, and probably the best thing I can suggest is to look for one that someone else has had success with. Sometimes early examples of a particular model have odd software issues that the supplier has to sort out, and I doubt that you want that. The steering wheel change is probably slightly physically difficult, but not impossible, by any means, but I'm not sure that I'd advise that as the first bit of serious mechanics that you start on. When you say that you want 'buttons', I would have thought that your VRS should already have them, so could you explain what you want, that you haven't got, in detail, please?