klamath

Welcome to the Karoq owners club and enjoy your new car. There is a recent article on the Forum about how to fit a hardwire DashCam into a Karoq, suggest you take a look here: In my car (MY2018) it is fuse for the rear wiper (#47 if I remember correctly) and the fuse box you need is on the passengers side, behind the glovebox, which is accessed via removing the springs and dropping the box down.

So there is a great post on this site that I used to fit a Nextbase Hardwired Dashcam Kit to my Karoq (MY2018) that shows where wired the black lead to pick up the earth/negative/ground Link to Article: Hardest part was getting the springs on the side of the glove box to release and managed to do this one Saturday morning, in about 30mins, whilst parked in a car park waiting for my son to finish his Park Run! Link to Hardwire kit fitted: Series 2 Hardwire Kit | Nextbase Hope this helps?

Nope, just unfortunate enough to experience the perils of a poorly designed minor road with a Give Way leading onto a major road controlled by traffic lights. The road layout has changed to be fully traffic light controlled and hopefully the person that struck me has learnt to not use their phone whilst driving! Made a right mess of the back of my Yeti mind you.

In a word Yes, then when the lights change to green simply accelerate away, the handbrake will release automatically and off you go. When stopped at traffic lights I normally jut let the auto hold do its' thing and don't worry about the handbrake or the brake lights being on. If I am stuck in traffic, for example queue on the motorway, then I will apply the handbrake. I am stopped for a long period of time I move the shifter to "P". If people are getting in/out of the car then I move the shifter to "P" as having the car lurch forwards when getting in/out is a great way for a passenger to get a broken arm/leg/shoulder, which is not great. If you do put the shifter into "N" then the autohold will disengage and the car will start rolling if you have not applied the handbrake, don't worry the car will sound an alarm and flash up a message on the display to apply the footbrake. I don't like putting the shifter into "P" when stopped at the traffic lights as I have been rear ended too many times in the past and know that if the shifter is in "P" and you get shunted then it is probably going to be a new gearbox, which on an older Karoq like mike could mean the car is written off by the insurance company. DSG is a great choice, once you have got used to it, you will wonder how you ever managed to drive a manual 😀 Hope this helps?

You will know when the battery is fully charged when the voltage across it is 13.2V with the engine running, rather than the usual 14.8V when the vehicle is stationary and the engine is idling. I measure mine using a voltage/temperature monitor that plugs into the 12V socket in the centre console something like this should be okay: JZK® 2 in 1 car truck bus voltmeter & thermometer display, 12v 24v battery voltage temperature meter monitor tester gauge indicator : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive If you don't have a way to measure the voltage then if the auto Start-Stop activates then this means the battery is pretty well charged, however won't be fully charged. If you have a battery charger that is compatible i.e. suitable for AGM batteries and start-stop vehicles then a slow charge for 12+ hours should fully charge the battery and shouldn't over charge. Hope this helps?

Hello sussamb - My 18 plate SEL DSG Karoq started doing this back in October last year, the exact same symptoms, and I believe it was caused by power surges due to low battery charge. I noticed this when driving down a road that had lots of roundabout spaced a few miles apart. On the way back, same route, a few days later I did not notice any problems and the central locking has behaved itself since. I have noticed, and read on other posts in this forum, that if the battery has a low charge the Karoq seems to have strange electrical problems. Might be worth taking your Wife's car for a long drive, or use a compatible charger (the ones the support auto start/stop) to fully charge the battery and see if that makes any difference? Hope this helps, or at least gives a potential explanation.

Might also be worth looking at the "Funny door action" thread in this forum.

I noticed that, until I realised I had put the key in the lock the wrong way around .... the keyfob buttons need to be facing the ground not the sky. Once I pulled the key out and turned it over the lock / unlock action was smooth with little/no resistance. Hope this helps?

Bit of an update: On Tuesday called up my local dealer, described the issue, they stated that because the car was out of warranty there was an investigation fee, plus whatever it would cost to fix the issue, reluctantly I agreed and the car was booked in for Thursday (today) Dropped off the car this morning to be looked at and a couple of hours later I got the call .... defective door locking mechanism that would need to be replace. Before I could open my mouth and ask how much the dealer offered to waive the investigation fee and offered to majority pay for the locking mechanism meaning that my total bill would only be 25% of the cost of parts + labour. I agreed and the work was completed same day as the part was already in stock and I got my car back late afternoon. So I was pleased as I was expecting a many hundred repair bill. The warranty ran out at the end of last month and legally the dealer/Skoda UK does not have to offer to part pay for any repairs, however if they insist on you paying full price it is worth asking about contributions and goodwill gestures, particularly if you are a regular customer / bought the car from them,, etc. If they refuse, start talking about the sale of goods act and how items must be fit for purpose and last for reasonable period of time depending on their price. Hope this helps?

Mine (18 plate SEL DSG) has started doing the same just today with the drivers door. This morning all other doors unlocked fine however had to open drivers door by reaching over from the passenger side and using the internal handle. Now the drivers door won't lock, however all other doors lock/unlock fine. The red LED on the drivers door flashed as I lock from the keyfob, then stays on for about 30 seconds before then flashing normally. I don't think it is fuses as all other doors lock/unlock as normal, either on the keyfob or KESSY on the passengers door and both mirrors fold in / fold out as per normal. In addition the manual (Pg62) says its' a fault with the central locking system so it looks like it might be a phone call to my local dealer on Tuesday to get it booked in to be looked at ... hmm!

Time is taken from the GPS, it noticed mine lost the time once a year or so ago, so I changed the option of whether the time was GPS or manual and changed it back to GPS and the clock reset. Sorry I cannot remember where the option was. Hope this helps?

I had a really slow puncture on my front passenger side wheel last year, the pressure loss was only 5psi in three weeks so easy to miss. Depending on what I was driving over at the time the pressure had fallen below the threshold, it would trigger one or more of the sensors. Have you manually checked the pressures over a couple of weeks to see which wheel could have the issue? If I understand correctly the TPMS is linked to the ABS system in the Karoq, so if there was a faulty sensor then the ABS would also report a fault.

Hello. Wino is correct, the Karoq takes both types of fuses. According to my Owner Manual (pg 291, 292) the cigar lighter (also called 12v socket in the Manual) is fuse #40 and looks to be one of the longer ones. Advise you check the Owner manual for your model just to make sure as things may be different to mine Hope this helps?