Fab vRS

Thanks!

It's not the driving off of a mountain that is the problem . . . it is hugging the ground that smarts a tad.

Hi When fitting a new turbo, what is the best running in procedure? Eg just leave the engine running for 30 minutes? Or is there NO running procedure (other than the usual letting it warm up before flooring it)? Eg just install and drive off? Any comments appreciated! Thanks.

Got my 312mm calipers and discs and pads from Golf Turbo on here last year. I think it was about £280.

Pics?

Prices: - KW1s lowered suspension - 312mm brake upgrade - Whiteline Rear ARB - PD160 air intake = £1200 -> I did this last year. If you ONLY did this the car would be much improved (you don't need the PD160 without a remap - I did it because I knew I would be remapping afterwards). - uprated Sachs organic clutch - Peloquin diff = £2000 -> about to do this (next 3 months) - Milltek exhaust inc decat - bigger turbo - Forge FMIC - remap = £2800 -> will do this in 3-6 months time All prices inc VAT and labour. = 200-210bhp and maybe 300-320lb/ft The diff will help traction. I would do all the handling and brake mods FIRST and then the power upgrades later. If you do the power mods first you will have a car that will love hedges ;-)

I had the 312mm fitted about 6 months and they are worth it! Give them 500 miles to settle in tho. I am running on standard power but I have the Whiteline rear ARB and have KW1s to lower too. The combination makes the car a lot better handling wise. The 312s were about 300 quid from Golf Turbo (Briskoda member).

Take it off if you want lots of understeer; if you don't, keep it.

I sealed all 4 doors in Nov 08 and I have not sufferd any water ingress so far... However, I tested the doors after I had sealed them and let them dry (but BEFORE I put the cards and everything else back on) and I found that water was coming through the rivets!!! So I recommend you seal the rivets with LOTS of sealant as well as the usual bottom of the door. I also recommend sealing the sides of the door as high as you can - you only want to do this job once, so do it properly. For those non-technical folks, a rivet is the circular piece of metal you can see at the top of picture 9 (the top of the rivet is chopped off in the pic).

Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato (sandwich)

JBS are nearer and I have paid a deposit on their Custom Code remap.

I had a Whiteline RARB fitted last year and I would HIGHLY recommend it. I am not a highly skilled racer or anything, but the bar significantly reduces understeer and makes the whole car feel a lot more neutral in cornering. Even on the stiffest setting (as recommended by my wife) it does not oversteer and is safe (unless you are CRAZEEEEE). To avoid oversteer always brake/accelerate BEFORE a corner - NEVER in one. If you aim to travel through a corner at a constant speed (without lifting off/braking/accelerating) then you should not oversteer. I have also had the 312mm brakes and KW1 coilvers fitted and these too are great mods. I am running on standard power for the time being, but I would definitely recommend all 3 mods even if you do not increase the standard power.

Jabbasport will be fitting the clutch and diff and THEN over to JBS to do everything else at the same time - which is what I want (minimal hassle, even if it costs more).

JBS will be fitting the Milltek, Forge FMIC, new turbo and then doing a remap. The clutch + diff will be done before then by another supplier.

NW England, very nr to Awesome (who fitted the 312mm brakes)

Definitely not going to pursue bigger injectors or alternative fuelling methods like meth/water. I have a budget for new turbo, Milltek, FMIC, uprated clutch, diff + remap ONLY!!

For the JDS hybrid turbo: Pricing for the Turbo,Gaskets,Oil and filter,coolant and Software [Custom Code] will be approx £1700 + VAT Fitting of the above will be £250 + VAT

I am not after further modding, so I don't need an upgrade path. Yeah, Turbo Dynamics!

Hi I've asked JBS AutoDesigns for details of an uprated turbo for my Fabia vRS and they have told me that they can "offer a hybrid PD130/150 turbo" capable of "up to 210bhp" with the standard injectors. Does anyone know what this turbo is? Eg Garrett, Team Dynamics etc. I asked JBS but they just said: "The turbo we use is a JBS hybrid, it has been developed with a reputable turbo company within the UK so the quality can be assured" For 200bhp, would it just be better to go with a Team Dynamics MD347 and ask JBS to install and then remap it? (I have a FMIC, Milltek and 312mm.) Any ideas? Thanks!

So my wife tells me.

Nathian, Bigger discs and pads will stop the car faster than the standard set up and that helps at 30mph and at 70mph obviously. For a cost of £300 you can fit the Audi TT brakes which are a great improvement. If you find the standard one OK, don't bother changing them. Personally, I found the standard ones 'average' to 'poor' at best. I had little confidence in them at 30mph.

Go to Kwik Fit with the correct oil and they'll change it ASAP. Personally, I doubt it would make much difference or do any damage long term so I wouldn't bother changing it.

I'm holding out for an Impreza diesel: 180bhp+, boxer engine, Japanese reliability and 4 wheel drive stability....

I used the sealing guide from this forum. Do a search for it as it is very helpful. Rivets are circular and metal.

I fixed all my doors last week myself. I poured water on the window to spot the leaks and I noted that water comes in THROUGH THE RIVETS as well as at the bottom of the door. So, my advice is to seal all the rivets as well as the usual sealant line. Don't forget to seal quite high up - otherwise water will leak out at the top! I smeared loads of the stuff on everywhere to be honest. The quality of the door sealant seems to be far higher on the front doors compared with the rears.