Former

Yes, I've been at a business when ISO 9001 was first being implemented, and know a couple of people, one had a job implementing and checking standards inhouse (not 9001) and another whose business is to help businesses implement or draw up the required systems and documentation of various standards. It was more that businesses sometimes present the ISO 9001 as if it relates to their products ISO 9000 was only what a good business with good owners and bosses would have been doing but without the "lie sheets". Sheet of tick-boxes from Dealership service anyone, often entertaining reading.

No I am not. I have decades of experience of business and businesses, various car ownership, driving on the roads we have here in England and UK (many in very poor quality for a "1st world country"), a member of a multi-marque car club for 20+ years and other car clubs, know people in the car trade (including mechanics and specialists). My neighbour has been driving on the same local roads with an older car for many years before my wife bought her Fabia and is still on factory fitted dampers. Plus her Fabia Mk3 isn't the only one to need the factory dampers replaced. My wife and I are careful to avoid potholes, bumping up kerbs, and traffic calming road humps. My previous car, and others I have had were too narrow in track for the many traffic calming road humps here in UK so had to be taken with more caution than other driver's would need to take with their cars. Once again your arrogance of thinking you know taking variables into consideration is beyond me and I have no understanding or experience of anything (other than knitting according to you) I often put about taking variables into consideration, in fact I put so in a post today - before you highlighted the need to me. What caused the "misting" of the less than 12-months old replacement dampers, my supposed ignorance of variables perhaps. 😄 I have dealt with business side product sales and customer returns and dealt with the general public for decades and business to business so I do know about customer and business variable in use of products, thank you.

Yes but what standards applying to what in what way, standards can be for a minimum accepted level which can be different to what is a level for a good product, or applying to something other than perhaps build/use quality. I could only give you my one example of my experience of TUV as that's all I've had directly. Would the dampers on my my wife's VWSkoda car be covered by TUV, if so I'd prefer other makes that are well engineered and built and last decades of use as on my mates non-Germany cars. Standards - ISO 9001 is boasted about here, literally more of a paper exercise and brings little to product quality directly.

The Owner's Manual if read and referred to when appropriate can save a lot of time, hassle and cost and the need to consult any workshop manual but you do need to read the Owner's Manual (and that's not against any law as many men believe) to find out when it's appropriate to refer to which book. The WSM doesn't cover some of the stuff in the Owner's Manual and neither covers some stuff you find in other Owner's Manuals and WSMs, such is VW. Try the following link for WSM. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda-fabia-mk3-2015-2019-2020-workshop-manuals-wiring-diagrams/

But does it deserve that higher authority or is it like the continuing myth that "German engineering quality" means it's always high quality, when it often isn't. I have only ever had manual foot pumps with TUV certificate label and they weren't that good quality and my neighbour's cheap flimsier looking pump outlasted them - perhaps it's different when applied to suspension parts, I have no idea. As I've put before my wife's VWSkoda factory fitted dampers only lasted 6 years and 41k-miles (66,000 km) and their replacement almost failed the next MoT less than 12 months later because the replacements were "misting" which the local Skoda Dealership said was normal, yet on asking my friends that have had lots of different cars over decades and more than a few cars now they said they have never experienced this other than as a failure of the part - so much for OE quality! I don't want to shatter your beliefs but you may find if you have a job related to car manufacturing engineering that things aren't as 'black and white' and pure as you seem to see them now and engineers aren't higher beings but just the same as everyone else, some good, some bad, most in-between and that car companies operate far from high ideals even when they say or pretend to. :cough: Dieselgate :cough; just one example, lots of engineering there, particularly on engineering VW's (and others) truth.

Duty bound, as an engineer or scientist, wearing your underpants on the outside as the hero you are. It's fine that you put your side but why do you have to be so demeaning in doing it, the rubbish about ritual magic - btw you must be having a fantastic day as I will threw my best quality chicken bones southwards at midnight in your honour. Scientifically correct but you're not going to hear any more, if there are any, if you stamp all out and ripping the ****. What did you think of that long anecdote about anon-VW engine, personally I liked it but strictly speaking it broke the rules you both impose, I'm not clever like you both but isn't that an example of hypocrisy by it being posted and you not complaining at it, but I might have all this wrong, I'm not an engineer after all. If you want or need the use of the word residue explain in my previous post just ask, I have followed your previous advice and not worried too much about the exact words and wording of my posts. I find it hard to accept that you could be in Brighton and the people there put up with you, you must be different, or present as being different, to how you often post here. Toodle-pip old boy.

About the same as the same as when you was parked up before but it depends on what electric consumption your car is using at the time and whether any significant load was left running, or drain, over night. You want to use the OBD to compare against the last OBD reading for consistency as the phone charger might always show a different result to your OBD being different devices. Personally I prefer a reasonable quality multimeter directly on to the battery terminal posts if you want to know the battery voltage at that point, but you would have to had taken a reading this way when the battery was first installed to know the difference. Depends on what electric consumption your car is using at the time and whether any significant load was left running, or drain, over night but I would consider 12.0v bad. My wife's AGM battery arrived in the post at 12.4v which is fine for the battery but I personally prefer to install the battery at 100% charge, though it isn't necessary, which will show something like 12 point 7, 8 or even 9 on a multimeter (after its surface charge has been lost). Hopefully you are fully sorted by now. As my wife does lots of short journeys I found I have done more preventative charges of the AGM battery fitted June 2021 with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer than I expected, not many but more than I expected. Cheers.

"More effective power consumption and charging capacity: Thanks to surface-active carbon additives – EFB+ version only." - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-services/servicing-and-parts/spare-parts-and-oil/battery.html I missed that bit first time of looking, press the drop arrow on "The benefits of our EFB and EFB+ batteries at a glance:".

You were showing 12.3v when parked up so if it shows around that in the morning that's fine, you have to consider what's being used by the car when you are sitting in it parked up (0.2v- 0.3v?) and by the Carista running its checks, sometimes accuracy of testing equipment. Also you were showing 12.2v at new battery installation. You can leave the Carista plugged in to se live data and even drive with it but don't leave it plugged in like that for longer than necessary and not as a habit. Computes and their programming aren't always (never?) perfect and can have brain-farts for various reasons as we all know whilst it matters a lot less if the Carista get messed up it matters a lot more if the VW programing or car parts do. Have the following pdf. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

Really sepulchrave, you've bothered again, you really do flatter and honour us poor humble misguided children with your attention. 😉 I never realised you were also a Certified Lubrication Specialist and scientist why you've been shy about mentioning this before I can't understanding given your expertise in all other matters. Please tell us about the oil only being 100% oil and nothing else, any old oil will do so I can't understand VW engineers ever bothering with their numbers, but engineers do love numbers, them being scientific like. 😉 If the OP and I want to change the oil in the gearbox why do you care, I put what I PERSONALLY do not that I'm a Certified Lubrication Specialist or a scientist or an engineer, and it's not like a scientist or gawd forbid an engineer has ever got something wrong or misunderstood. Do you need to visit Specsavers, you seem to have misread or misunderstood what I'd put, but possibly just lazy skim-reading and usual shorthand standard reply, I deserve no more. Prey do tell us enlighten us to what the lifetime of the gearbox is according to VW, engineers, no less, seems to be only until the warranty runs out and then any problem would probably be because of the car owner, perhaps putting in a non-VW light bulb in a sidelight. I offered alternatives to consider other than changing the gearbox oil and stated that changing the gearbox oil wouldn't help under a number of circumstances. You know changing the oil won't ever help so - if the OP drains the oil he will see and feel it's pristine, he'll feel a little foolish and tip it back into the gearbox, get a refund on the oil he's bought, return here and praise you as he should and admonish me for suggesting or forcing him to bother trying to change the oil with my ritual magic beliefs. I will throw a few chicken bones southwards at midnight in your honour. :deepbowing:

ETA: I forgot to put checking the oil level and topping up if required is a very good first step. If you have the car level and the gearbox oil cold and some runs or drips out when you remove the level/filler plug as I've often found I take it as being full or perhaps even over-full at that point. And one 1 litre bottle might be enough even for a refill but do you really want to be short on parts and materials once you've start a job.

My personal experience is that changing the gearbox oil as a preventative and improvement measure does help, obviously it can't do much when things have gone too far for that other perhaps buy a little more time. As put if you have problems it might be other gearbox causes, or other than the gearbox, or in addition to the gearbox. From Millers Oils data base for 2006 Fabia 1.4 TDI (51kw) XF Premium MTF 75w - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/8374-XF-Premium-MTF-75w-5.pdf (my preference for the effort as I only want to fart about on cars as little as possible and my time is much more valuable than any VW car, get it on some special offer somewhere) - EE Performance MTF 75w - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/8327-EE-Performance-MTF-75w-1.pdf If you want to go Yankee-doddle-dandy, from Opie Oils database, and it gives a second number if you're worried about that, and it has a VW number if you want to follow VW dictates. - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-85488-valvoline-gear-oil-75w-80.aspx?variantid=134455 Or you could buy any cheap basic GL-4, 75w-80 you can find. Or you could take it easy on the gearbox and gear changes and nurse it along for as long as possible, might be a good while if you're lucky. Do check any information you get from a bloke on the internet and cross reference any information from any source, all databases have errors and omissions including oil blenders and oil suppliers and car manufacturers. Get two 1 litre bottles, as you probably already know how much goes in also depends on how much you get out, if the oil in the gearbox is warm or hot you usually get more out and less old residue left in to dilute any effects the new fresh oil might be able to give. I tip a little warmed fresh new oil in at the end of the drain as a little flush for last gearbox dregs its reasonably possible to get out. Good luck let us know how you get on and perhaps a further follow-up in 6-months or a year, or when the box gets worse.

Grease will hold road and other debris, silicone is considered by some as not good on paint. Lubricate hinges and lots of other stuff with GT85 it has PTFE instead of grease (forget WD-40 Multi-Use use GT85 instead. GT85 was formerly a British company now owned by an American company called WD-40 Company.

Thanks for your initial report back here, and your answer post to me. Well that looks current and unusually for Amazon a very good price, I wonder why Castrol are selling the newer stock off cheaper, to your benefit though. So, do you still have the 2011 Octavia, if so you might want to add the Fabia details too as putting yours is a 2020, Fabia Mk3, 1.0 TSI 95 (and spec level) might speed up future answers for you. https://www.amazon.co.uk/stores/Castrol/page/96F8C9B4-D7AF-404D-BF7B-838FEE0BAD08?ref_=ast_bln Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV - https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge.html#tab_0w-20-ll-iv WEPP-CPVU6J.pdf Cheers.

Which Castrol Edge 0W-20?

Why the argument continues is another matter but it began because a couple of posters, one with good intentions the other I'm not so sure about, don't want other viewers or posters to follow this example of suspension set up.

I am not a big fan of Haynes manuals and have no idea what is included in the Felicia 1996-2000 (UK) version but all data bases have error and omissions including in my limited experience factory workshop manuals. I also have no idea what, if any, other languages this is/was published in paper or digital. - https://haynes.com/en-gb/skoda/felicia/1995-2000-13-petrol-304858

A couple of quick ideas, - You could test the horn(s) by disconnecting from car wiring and making live and earth connections directly from 12v battery to horn(s) and if done a few times on and off this may "clear the throat" of the horn(s) if the car and/or horn(s) are not used a lot or for a long time. Be aware that there can be a fair bit of power and sparks perhaps and of course sudden loud noise possibly. All done at your own responsibility of course. If you can get someone to press the horn(s) button whilst you take a voltage reading at the horn(s) this might tell you if full electric power is getting through to the horn or end of the horn wire connections.

You would probably better looking at or posting on the 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/ If the car and horn(s) have not been used a lot and/or for a long time checking all the electrical connections are clean, secure and protected may be a first step. Starts at the horn(s) connects make be the easiest route but it depends on where they are located and how they are fixed to the car.

I share your frustrations with the way the way VW go about these things and info in Owner's Manual which gets less and less as the years go on. You can use Castrol if you want my wife's 2015 Owner's' Manuals (and other stuff) folder thing has a Castrol Edge badge stitched and glued on it so I guess VW/Skoda/UK has some commercial contract with Castrol so that's what the official Dealerships use but you can use other appropriate oils if you want. The Owner's Manual should tell you what VW dictate for VW number (50? ??) is required for your engine. Again the following link tells you a lot about oil specs including VW's dictates. - https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/197/What-is-the-Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/461 Not necessarily for your engine but just one example only of one 1.0 engine from the 7/2020 Owner's Manual.- Next thing you need to know is quaintly needed (I don't know) but if you're used to doing your own servicing you'll know dry fill capacities are higher than real world cold drain and refills. It would have helped if you put your car was a 2020 sooner, it would perhaps help if you change your profile to add/replace the car details as currently you show Octavia tfsi 2.0, 2011. and then if the Fabia is your first Skoda what's the Octavia about?

UK - fishtailing, hairpin bends/turns (a u-turn is to turn the vehicle to face the opposite direction). I have no idea now but there might have been a derogatory term about people from another country in the deleted post which instead of with the other mentioned factor might have caused the deletion.

Hi, welcome. you have posted in the Forum Support section you really want another relevant forum probably best to start at the 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013' forum, I'll 'Report' your post here and see if it can be transferred there. Good luck.

I saw the post but can not remember all that was in it, or the details, but I did notice that you had put something like - [not the same as I am putting now but with the same key words] - before the rebuild driving on the public road and something something something dangerous. I have no real idea if that was the reason the post was removed but I had thought I think I know what you actually meant but it didn't necessarily read that way in the post and a poor choice of words and/or description - but it might have been something else a lot less noticeable to me, or both things, I can't know for sure.

I saw the post but can not remember all that was in it, or the details, other than you reporting that the rebuild made a great improvement on the handling of the car and performance of suspension. Perhaps it was you putting something about previously to the rebuild a perception of danger whilst driving on a public road - but I don't know, I didn't 'Report' it and I am not a Moderator, or site owner, so could not remove the post but I did think the choice of word or description was unwise.

You might be better asking on the appropriate Fabia forum as they are more active.