Former

Thanks for your reply, I have not looked back my posts here, and not wanting to light any fireworks again here, I think I might have put something like that you were polite enough to have responded to my post(s) and then probably put my usual thoughts that anyone can ignore my posts, or anyone else's, if they want, this was in answer to other(s) not yourself. Also, very unusually I actually remembered something and that was that you probably weren't able to rush back with replies anyway. I am not sure where you are with you ignition firing and don't know which igniter head (as I call it) you have fitted but as a generality bear in mind the electronic may give different figures to CB points and book figures. With my fully electronic (top and bottom) 123 dissy it would scar the brand new Bosch/Beru/other dissy cap posts (for the want of a better word) from the very first turnover let alone start. I never checked my HT leads but they were very good quality. As there was (an unquantified) fat spark I opened the spark plugs up a bit, but nowhere near as some suggested, and on an engine builder's/tuner/engineer/author/engine-model specialist rolling road we found 0.30" was best instead of as book 0.25". This was on an Austin/BMC/BL A-series engine though, with NGK plugs.

Well done. To help a bit with removal and refitting of plastic and other bits I use a spray of an appropriate penetrating/releasing lubricant, usually GT85 I like to let the appropriate chemicals (or natural) products do as much, or all, of any hard work - but they can't do much on a PITA job like this, but then most jobs tend to be a pain in the back, neck or elsewhere to and for me. 🙃

I will put what the others are thinking - well they would say that wouldn't they. Of course no different to the German marques still being thought as "German engineering quality" as meaning high quality when some/much of it has dropped and disappeared since the end of last century/millennium. People believe what they want to believe, what is a "fact" today could be, or not, or disproved later even by and with the same expertise that made the fact previously. Your link didn't work (for me at least) this one does (for me at least). - https://www.koni.com/products-car-strt If it's open season for urine extraction then I will have to sharpen my wits, shouldn't take long based on what has been put for sometime, or just leave it as some can dish it out well enough but not soak it up well when it's in their direction and the standard of humour, to my opinion, isn't high.

Not being a fan boy of Skoda, VW or any car marque I can put that it has been known for many compromises, and mistakes, to be on cars from the necessary compromises of their general sales and the companies wanting profit, wages and dividends for their share holders and other factors. Sometimes they rectify these issues for whatever reason and sometimes they don't for whatever reason. I've no idea if or how much a Felica could or needs any further development but to regard any engineers, Skoda or not (and I'm not getting at Thefeliciahacker) as infallible gods is flawed in my personal experience and personally knowing fully qualified engineers (not in car suspension). I have still not been told what it is that will cause physical damage or destruction with D.FYLAKTOS set up and don't understand if is dangerous how it gets through (14?) of your MoT equivalent to allow the car on your roads or at least some sort of mention of potential future issue(s). I can understand that one after market suspension parts set up might be better and have more research done with its application but not a bigger company sells something that is dangerous to be used on the roads - unless they sell with very strict instruction that the parts are for track or other use and not roads use. As I put before you would not want to refit factory fitted dampers on the Fabia Mk3 as they can be very short life as I and others have found.

Excluding the multigrade range (and any VW numbers for you) here a good oil is a good oil and a better oil is better, how much better and how much you benefit can be variable and may be small steps - or nothing if you believe they're all the same or it doesn't matter on an old car - "you pays your money and you makes your choice". If you use an appropriate oil to your conditions you won't go wrong, up to you what degrees of going right you want or need. Not my car and whether it would fully suit all of your exacting requirements but given Thefeliciahacker experience I would still think about giving a (very?) good quality synthetic 15w-50 a try particularly out of winter.

Early days - no I'm joking. 😁 All being well with a 2019 car you might avoid the potential additional delights of later cars. Now I only drive occasionally a 2005, 2016 or 2023 and I can tell you I prefer the 2005. When you get sorted come back and let us know what caused the light and what sorted it, other the replacing the car of course. 😁

In that case you might as well go to - https://www.clubmotul.co.uk/p/motul-hybrid-sae-0w12-fully-synthetic-engine-oil/88

Not enough details for me to see anything obvious quickly on the company sites and I don't have enough interest now to contact the companies but if you find anything it's only a matter of conformation and editing a MS Word.x doc and saving as pdf to get it on here.

Obviously the scanner has to be relevant to your vehicle for deeper stuff but it can be a general other make other than VCDS (and the others I forget) and the better the scanner and VW specific the more it can see and do but a good and reliable cheaper model may get the light off, delete error codes, find generic things. You don't want anything unreliable of course otherwise it could lead you up the wrong path. £150 for a plug-in, do you get that or some of it taken off the bill if you have work done? You could perhaps look for a good independent (VW perhaps) garage or a good reliable auto-electrician. Are you up to date with any servicing, Recalls, updates, getting in a few good blow out runs if you have a GPF. You want to get it sorted but if the car, battery and alternator are going fine otherwise perhaps it's not urgent but Sod's Law if you forget about it it'll give you an unexpected reminder. Good luck.

OFF Topic Warning @Rooted sorry I wasn't able to PM this to you so have put it below for you (and anyone else). Updated petrol list, ethanol free seems to be no more, for those on the list at least. petrol.pdf

Just to remind you the 15w-50 you used wasn't a synthetic, IIRC (which I may not) you always seem happier using a synthetic oil (which is why I couldn't understand you going to the mineral as it would be an unfair comparison for you).

Loads of places in UK but care is need on quality, use and supplier (just ask Titan Motorsport). .

Why not see if there's someone near you able to help you out with a report at least and perhaps deleting error code(s) and see what comes back or even perhaps further diagnosis - perhaps for just beer tokens. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Tow bar wiring might be a fun area. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

You have enough to apologise about from your posts without worrying about apologising for others. And please try to be more accurate in your skim reading in future before you both with your replies to or about me, thank you.

Thank you for your very lengthy reply. And for your last sentence.

My choice would be to fully charge the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer that way you know the battery was fully charged rather than guessing how much it's topped up with any short motorway runs you might be able to make. Follow the Owner's Manual and battery charger maintainer manual instructions for charging. I think you have the time to follow my preference of low (amps) charging over longer time, 2, 3 or 4-amp chargers. Is your battery actually 49 Ah, in which case you'd want to go no higher than a 5-amp charger maintainer, see Owner's Manual, or is it a 59 Ah so 6-amp charger maintainer by the same book, either way I'd prefer a 2, 3 or 4 myself. My wife's Fabia has a 60 Ah battery and I use a 4-amp charger maintainer that I only bought because it was a fair bit lower price than the lower amp ones I saw. You can then do as I'm, forced to, do and connect it up when required for preventative charging of the battery rather than waiting for the battery to get too low for longer and better battery life. If yours is one of those that needs the keyfob for the ignition have you also checked the battery in the keyfob. Hopefully not - ring the Dealer and ask if it's covered by warranty, worst they can do is ay "No". If you need to try a spray lubricant then you are best to get the button forward, using something plastic to pry it forward use something plastic to get the spray where it will be most effective - usual cautions about car electrics. On this occasion I would use Servisol Super 10 switch cleaner and lubricant. Or I might use GT85 as I use that instead of WD-40 as it's a longer lasting, PTFE and smells nice. Some people won't like my long answer and even perhaps your long question, but they'll probably only moan about and/or to me. 🙃 Good luck.

@RicardoM you will not bully me like you attempt to bully others. As you have rejected my other ideas why not just put up posts directing posters to your technical threads and guides as this will give the very short, direct and technically correct answers and keep the thread short the way you want for the threads and this section to be - unless the posters are seeking or want to take advantage of more or wider things. I will gladly put a link to any of your technical threads and guides once I learn from you doing so as obviously I'd not know until then what is appropriate. 1) - You have thousands of posts, I have read but a few of that number yet you seem able to have read many of mine and take them as trolling because they are spread over more than one section. There are a lot of commonality on sections of a car website, generalities that apply, just as one example is a Felicia tyre that different to a Fabia or the basics of a tyre not apply to other models, do I need to be a technical expert in tyres to give general advice, details or opinions. 2) I don't even know what woke means but I'm pretty sure you'd have a very firm idea of what it means to you - so that it should not apply in YOUR section of this site 3) by being a jerk do you mean not always fully agreeing with you and fully doing as you want - and perhaps watching you take the **** and bully someone else and watching you throwing your toys out of the pram when they (not me) give you some of your own medicine back. Whether you intend it or not, and it's not on at least a few occasions, you aren't that polite to me usually (and for another). I think the "one who is cruel, rude, or small-minded" of jerk applies a greater deal more to you than me, otherwise I'd have given you much more and much sooner than the little bit of ****-taking here. I am not in any way in any competition with you especially about correct technical advice. You were demeaning me and someone else you knew nothing of and then gave the OP a bit of a snooty or ****ty telling off (part of which, but not your manner of reply, I agreed with if you check again) so (belatedly) for the first time I took the **** out of you - and you don't like it, can dish it out to others but not take it yourself. IF the OP doesn't want to read or respond to my post(s) that is fine, previously there was a response to one of my non-technical and bit of "good ol' times" posts perhaps the OP was just being polite but at least he was genuinely being polite. I do not need to stir any trouble as you start it so often already, if you can't take a tiny bit of ****-taking don't throw out so much trouble and ****-taking yourself. If you want me (and others) to only do as you want and you will not even consider becoming a Moderator, or take over the site, then Report me and try to get rid of me, and then perhaps try for others who also don't do things the way you want them done. Just because I dislike your attitude doesn't mean I don't see and understand that you often give very good advice, pity you can't sometimes resist being confrontational and offensive, and I don't mean just to me.

You two can back and forth on this as much as you like, I am NOT taking sides on this (or extracting the urine or joking) when asking @Thefeliciahacker for his answer on what gets physically damage, I'm just curious and interested to know. If your other adversary was really interested in keeping viewers and posters away from bad information or advice then he might stop with the availability of rope and give a brief and to the point answer of what will get physically damaged or destroyed and justifiably bring the thread to a conclusion.

Why worry about leading makers of oil, why not just use the very cheapest you can get, or buy at special offer times only. Some makes are just labels anyway and an old 'name' (brand) can be owned by an entirely different company. The safety data sheets sometimes give the game away. A few years back some of the old farts that owned "classics" (and I can put that as I was one of them, but I actually used my overpriced, over-valued old cars called "classics") thought Duckhams Q was back from the past, but it wasn't it was just called and labelled that. I done an engine oil (& filter) on my neighbour's car as it hadn't been done for many years and he'd certainly not notice any difference from me ding so and neither did I when driving it again. I know a (self-trained) 'mechanic' that had a galactic mileage old Ford Orion that he used as a tow-vehicle and deliberately didn't change the oil to see how far it'd go before he absolutely had to do something, not in the 3 or so years I knew of it.

As car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts I'd guess they'd suggest a new battery rather than buying and using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (which they also sell a range of) and possibly getting more years of good battery life and performance. Also Halfords seem to have their own battery numbering so fitting isn't always perfect, wrong holding down foot on a Halfords own label battery for a neighbour of mine and it was a lower capacity but higher price than serval better alternatives he could have easily got (took me 15 minutes to alter his cars holding bracket as he wouldn't let me cut the excess footing off the two tier footing on the Halfords battery). Also bear in mind a new battery is best 'coded' to the car's computer system despite what some Halfords seem to say. Good luck.

Good that you had that work done and brakes and tyres checked. I'd not worry too much about that report, certainly not for now. There are a couple of possible suggestions there that the car might have been given some minimum sales preparation or just happened to have some work done and after needed selling (which might be good or not so good as it seems). Having three tyres at 6+mm and one at 3mm isn't an ideal scenario. Do you have a spare tyre. Take a look at all 4/5 tyres and note if the makes/models, dates of which tyres vary, as in that previous video or see here. - https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/tyre-basics/tyre-markings-explained Did you follow the previous advice from others and me, found any more detailed service history on the car?

D.FYLAKTOS I was looking for, and waiting for, a simple answer from @Thefeliciahackeras to what will be physically damaged or destroyed as you seem to have not yet to discovered anything and then you, I and other viewers can be aware and you can keep an eye out on your car and as, much as you now can, minimise any damage.

Yes vacuum, and engine breathing errors can throw up all sorts of funny things. Yes I am sure you do know those stories - but you don't have the first clue who I am referring to and his qualifications and fully professional long experience and service. I have dealt with highly praised engineers who were really low-life con-artists. Having paper qualifications and decades of offering professional service, owing a garage or engineering business, being recommended and highly praised on a national TV motoring program can mean sweet FA in my decades of personal experience. Yes it was but now very sadly very lacking over here. Anyone decent is usually, dead, fully retired or so busy they deal with stuff from a long queue of people who want their work but no rush as they have toys or projects that can wait. I've dealt with so many poor quality workers and people in the English motor trade over decades to recognise when I get a good worker and/or person. I'm not technical but did assume (always dangerous) that you had done a compression check earlier on - just checked and you did and were happy with the figures. 🙃 You've done it now you've upset the section's Chief Police Official you are suppose to give very brief and to the point information so that the second hat of Solution Priest can be swapped to and a brief and to the point answer given, with perhaps a qualification so that if the answer is wrong then it's your fault. 😄 You sir have added to the tilt of what once was a perfectly balanced world, you're a very naughty boy. 😆

I am not saying the following will be directly relevant to to your case just an example. I bought a pre-converted larger engine (and brakes, tyres and suspension of course) British "classic" car and it had different (oversized) carb (Holly, with Offy) and vacuum pipes off. Ran fine except at certain point of the rev range when accelerating it was like turbo lag (no turbo or supercharged fitted though). As I couldn't borrow another of the same carb off a mate of a mate he recommended I take the car to a specialist in those carbs. He had the carb for a week and could find nothing. Then luckily I was recommended to an old school rolling road tuner, he had the car running outside the rolling road shed as there was a track-toy running something in on the rollers, he spent about 10 minutes running the engine, scratching his head and having a fag and then suddenly said something pulled a vacuum hose off and shoved a big long screwdriver down it and smiled. Cut the hose to a stub, put a setscrew and small Jubilee clip on the stub to act as a temporary blanking and said "Take it for a good run boy and see 'ow it gooes". It ran marvellous. When I returned from the run and asked he said the Americans have vacuums for this that and the other on their cars, he had no idea what that one was supposed to be for but wasn't needed on a British car, he didn't do American cars. He didn't even want to take any money, he did something similar again on an unusual problem with another car of mine, spent 20 minutes on it, refused to fit the new carbs linkages parts I'd bought just in case and apologised for taking so long to remember the solution from a previous time (bent hinge pin on organ-type accelerator pedal). Un fortunately soonish after he died. A fantastic old school chap, too modest to even take a personal monetary tip let alone rip anyone off - so different from too many others I've meet in the English motor trade.

I would like to say the 40mm was a typo but it was my memory - 30mm or 40mm doesn't really matter to my questions unless it is that extra 10mm that causes any damages.