Former

Volkswagen / Audi / Seat Accelerator Pedal With Electronic Module 1K2721503AR (manual gearbox). On a very quick first find of search, £185 appears a reasonable price for the part from dealership. Not much to fitting I'd guess but no doubt(?) some sort of new part 'coding' to pay for. - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/seat-1k2721503ar-accelerator-pedal-with-electronic-module/mpn/1k2721503ar Good luck.

Thanks for the reply. Much servicing, maintenance and repairs often boil down to clean and lubricate (even electronic clean of deleting errors codes and switching off 'n' on agen) so it's always worth a look and some mechanical and electrical repairs can be easy once you can get at the items or remove them. Just to finish the thread, if you don't mind saying, how much were the part(s) and labour/installation?

H., welcome, for cleaning and lubrication, subject to usual caution for electrics if involved, if electrics you could use a combined switch cleaner and lubricant like Servisol Super 10, if not electric you could use other cleaner (electrical contact cleaner would also do) and then a longer lasting lubricant like GT85 (better than WD-40 Multi-Use) it will also help with releasing plastic clips. For parts and more info specific to your model you'd be better posting in the 'Skoda Yeti' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/151-skoda-yeti/ HTH.

If you're not taking the car back to whoever fitted the wiper stalk then I'd suggest you get someone with a VW appropriate scan tool to plug in and then perhaps do some diagnosis and/or do a report then delete any error codes and see which come back. Someone on the following list may be able to help you with this. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Genuinely thanks for sharing BUT others on here have been perusing this as this was the case abroad but not in UK until last summer, IIRC (which I don't always) 23 July 2023 VW finally admitted it and those other members have like you kindly been spreading the word. Too late for myself and others that had previously been conned by VW (£1k on my mates VW van last year and £460 for our Fabia in 2021).😠

ETA: when the wipers went wrong on my wife's 2015 car I can't remember seeing any error message but it was also a different fault to the one you have posted, the wipers would come on by themselves and others reported theirs wouldn't switch off. That issue was solved by following a YT vid and bit of DIY repair, which as much servicing, maintenance and repairs boiled down to clean and lubricate. Your issue sounds different but I mention the other in case you see it on searches.

If the replacement wiper stalk and fitting is within warranty then go back to where it was fitted as the replacement part might be faulty or the problem wrongly diagnosed and it wasn't the previous wiper stalk at fault or not the only fault.

Don't worry I've done the same but you're in the tyres & wheels forum, you might want the relevant Yeti or VCDS form for more replies and info. Good luck.

Sounds like the Octavia has two.

Depends on the old cars I would guess but for me I would have to had my head near the relays as general car noises or level of insulation would cover such a quiet noise, but I never had VW brands. You could lift the wipers off the screen (follow instructions in Owner's manual to do this) then put the ignition on without the engine running and try to locate the area the noise originates from and if that is where the relay is located you have conformation. If you want to, that is what VW want you to do. AFAIK car batteries remain one of the most oversold car parts in the UK. Batteries are expensive here and they are to be 'coded' in, more expense possibly. Best to do it on the battery terminals 2 hours, 5 hours or next day (longer the better) from since you last ran the car. Make sure all electrics (that can be) are turned off and allow for a drop of about 0.2v or 0.3v for any stuff the computers don't let you turn off. An acceptable reading depends on the type of battery fitted (EFB/AGM) and a few other minor factors. The something else - something from the very olden days that will be making even bigger return as cars from 2019 and later age - battery chargers. Now you would have an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and (as it always has been) best to do preventative charges when required rather than waiting for the battery to get too low. There are loads of posts on this, many from me, on here and the site generally about this but if you want I can copy and paste some info here for you. If you can take a landscape photo of your battery top that can help with battery type and its figures but it is not needed for general advice. BTW for future posts or threads if you want to you can add your engine, gearbox, trim level and location, as for example only. -

Good to see youngsters who either know, or might learn on the adventure, how to make-do and mend rather than relying on expecting to pressing a button, contact someone else to come out to them or a computer program, to sort everything out for them.

Relay was first thing to come to mind but AFAIK I've never heard/noticed any relay in my wife's 2015 Fabia, perhaps the 2019 car has a louder relay and less insulation to the sound on the car.. Unless you are hearing the relay with the engine and perhaps nothing else running at the time and your mind has locked on to this sound so you always hear it. If you don't think it is the relay then perhaps posting a recording of the audio of the clicking.

HI, welcome. Are the heated seats factory fitted? Do you get the clicking when the heated seats are switched but no clicking when heated seats are switched off? Side note, do bear in mind when on the heated seats will put additional load on the alternator and battery so do keep an eye on your battery state of charge so that you don't get unexpected warning lights or messages, don't wait for the stop/start not available all the time because the battery is too low. Internment on my 1973 car that I had up until a couple of years ago was pushing the dashboard rocker switch on and off. 😄

Hi, welcome. might be wires or connector perhaps, I don't think you can tell until you look or test sensor connector. You would get more advice on the model specific forum if you post there. - Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk-ii-2008-2015/ Good luck.

Good point. But then how accurate is the measuring instrument, probably good enough. I've no idea what the TC-6 (is) and where it picks it's information up from, and where ever that is it's accuracy, but as you put probably good at closed loop, good to think of things being perfect on a 23 year old car - but I'm nit-picking, assuming the TC-6 is consistent then that is the measure taken as no other is available to cross-reference and check against. Need I post My Cousin Vinny video clip again, I'm very happy to, just to see the mechanic again (we' are about the same age, no "chick" issue at any time). 😁 👍 so

I will get the flags out! 😄 (they would be difficult as I don't have any flags.) I'm not sure how much I would trust such equipment in those circumstances as we are not talking F1 electronics and parameters, perhaps they are spot on, or near enough, I have no idea but I would be thinking salt basin unless proven otherwise to my satisfaction (by electronic, computer, computer programing, statistical and mechanical engineers obviously 😁 ). Further towards the middle of the range may be more accurate but I've no idea, perhaps it's elsewhere or across the whole range. If you use it as a consistent guide and it's accuracy is consistent then that's god enough as a guide, after all we don't have scientific or laboratory conditions to rely on, and then can you trust the results given.

Fairy snuff, sorry to have brought you in. And you're surprised, Hotmail, good thing they bother with such stuff, pity it's against honest users but they, and others, have to be so careful the internet can be marvellous for all including those it shouldn't be. I've no real idea but I very much doubt it as I think, but can't remember, they have a commercial set up too, didn't seem snake oil to me but I could be well wrong as the some of the English motor trade has ripped me off and fooled me over the decades since the 1970s. I hope I've got smarter since but I might be fooling myself and forgetting a lot. To me in English it looks like a flag on a pole but that's just my interpretation and you and others may see differently and that is fine I didn't intended to get into any argument about such. The three dots in an arrow is media. Lots of stuff has been pushed out before and gets nowhere for many reasons but if you think it's a goer then go for it and as long as you can be honest with the results (some people are unable to admit to mistakes, including me easily sometimes) let us know the results of how you find it in the short term, medium term and long term.

@Rooted will probably know about stuff like this. This gets good reports but AFAIK isn't available in UK so I doubt for France also. - https://www.atschemicals.com/ I didn't know what this meant so I used Google Translate but then I saw the flag looking icon, top right of page, and it gives a drop-menu of French or English.

Forgot to put - when you 'code' the new battery also delete any error codes as that may speed things up a little.

A "thinner" and/or better quality oil used for short journeys in the cold will give less resistance for the engine. I'd imagine a better quality 15w-50 would have given better fuel figures in these circumstances than the 15w-50 you used, but possibly not as good as the 10w-40. The likes of VW try to shave the fuel consumption figures as very much as they can with various ways but it doesn't mean there are not some detrimental consequences from this pursuit of having the very ancient ICE and using too much modern technology on it perhaps including thin oils - but I am NOT saying the 10w-40 oil is too thin for your engine. But here you only want to compare the fuel consumption between the recent cold morning and cold night starts (with the same oil in the engine at both times). What ambient temperature range is the TC-6 guaranteed to be accurate at? What is the state of charge and state of health of your car battery at the moment?

Your car, your money, you do what is best foe you or as you please. A new battery 'coded' in correctly will eliminate any battery concern. You probably already know it can work out more expensive to go cheap on a replacement battery. Only if you're putting in equivalent to what has been taken out. Some systems can be calling on the battery even when it's parked up . Again have a look at your Owner's Manual for bigger electric consumers, like the see me home or whatever it's called, then there's the heaters, motors, air-con, etc. when you are using the car, driving or parked up. Having a fully charged (or new) battery will help with diagnosis whereas a battery in a low state of charge could hinder diagnosis and create issues and problems. See this sequence of posts from a recent thread with perhaps a similar battery incident. - "Timely post, yesterday I had a low battery warning on my 2021 fabia (pre owned from dealer) with no previous issues. I usually commute 40 miles 5 days a week, i suspect being off this week with no use and the cold and age of battery are to blame for todays non starting. Multimeter states only 11.8v 😞 Popped on charge so will see what happens, hopefully not a new battery!" "Damn, I charged it and it's started no problem but now theres an engine management light on, after further reading (and being old school) thought I could charge like any other car but appears I should have used the post on the chassis for negative 😞" I brought the car to skoda on other side of town about 5 miles and they did a battery health check saying the battery is fine." "Bit more googling and have reset the light by turning ignition on and off several times, didn't honestly think that was gonna work! Now to investigate whats the best way of maintaining the battery as mentioned by @nta16 above 👍" From this thread. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520254-battery-replacement-confusing/#comment-5819694

I think I would leave the lights off when I start the car and if they asked about anything just tell "it's an old car, I've got to wait a five minutes for something to work before I can go". Perhaps ask them to stick around after they've found a space in case your car needs a push, they should get rid of them (unless they own an old car to). 😄 For difference in fuel could that be the difference in temperature of the engine and ambient between morning outside as it is and the car having been parked overnight and night starting inside, parked inside so initially warmer engine and surroundings. Yes but you can scan and perhaps do a report either side of the cranking and perhaps see any anomalies. Just think how bigger spreadsheet you could have from those reports. 😉 IIRC there were over 600 data points for the Fabia engine, yours might be a few less.

Up to you, you may prefer to replace the battery for sheer convenience, plus you have the scan tool to 'code' the replacement battery. But batteries remain one of the most oversold car parts and your present battery may have useful productive life still in it for a reasonable while if you've not flogged it too severly for too long and/or too often. Rather than replace the battery why not fully recharge it on an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and not let the battery get so low in the future before charging it with the car or better still when appropriate put the battery charger maintainer on for preventative charging. Follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and the charger maintainer for charging. I've found it's best to do slow recharges to full, particularly on slow discharges, this does take more time and patience but for those without one or both they could be done over consecutive charges. Owner's Manual has 0.1 to battery Ah, so 79 Ah would be 7.9 amp charger, but I would go for a 4-amp, or preferably lower charging. The lower charging will take a longer time than most people expect but I find the results are better. I think it's always best to get to fully recharged then you know you've got the most you can and can discover how long that holds and lasts to help gauge if you really need a new battery. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Thinking of the differences between the two starts have you checked and perhaps cleaned MAP, intake air temperature sensors, checked and cleaned their connectors, wires, so on since this difference started?. Side question, what resolved the 3:42(?) wait? Do you have a scan tool that can check readings before and after start?

So you have only notice this difference in outside morning and inside night cold starts since you have used Eneos 10w-40 (which might just be coincidence)? You find the morning, outside, cold start is the one you don't like? Do you find the 1 minute wait before you go improves your City fuel consumption from the outside morning cold start, or the inside night cold start, or both?