Former

Personally for short journeys and 3k-miles a year I would go for a 0w-40 or 0W-30 and change it, and filter, at least once a year if you want to keep the car long term. The 0w oils tend to be better oils as it takes a fraction more effort and recipes to get them to 0w. If you are coming from a 2011 car then you will want more use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and/or disconnecting the battery if the car is sitting around unused for weeks, see the Owner's Manual. VW are differ with their oils, in the Owner's Manual they say what VW command number is required but not what mulitigrade or quantity. Lots of oil info here, only one manufacture's info of course. -https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/197/What-is-the-Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/461

That is a sign and warning that the battery needs charging. Best is not to wait for any warning messages or lights but rather when required charge the battery in some way. The use of an appropriate charger maintainer and fully charging the battery will give you peace of mind that the battery is full rather than assuming so with any drive of the car. That might be an error to rely on that, a battery that is low may start the car and the lights seem bright enough. It is better not to let the battery get too low as and low too often as it is more difficult for the battery to fully recover again. There are a lot of very complex computer programs on the car, the computers run on 5v so if the battery gets too low all sorts of unexpected warnings and lights might appear perhaps worrying your mother when possibly all that is required to get rid of them is to (fully) charge the battery. If you want you can do what others have done and disconnect the grey connector at the negative battery terminal clamp and this will disable the stop/start An AGM battery is compatible but needs 'coding' in. I and others have put loads of information on this forum and site about the battery (and its importance), on checking the state of charge of the battery and charging the battery but if you have any more questions on it or the stop/start just ask, someone will usually reply, often with others replying.

Did you find out why there's so much water got on to it?

Another thing is the £6k a total with monthly payments and the interest, regardless of the amount it may be less expensive to borrow the money from elsewhere at less interest and pay a one annual premium. At £6k I'd think any thoughts of "stage 1" or any other mods should be a few years away as they will add to the premium, where as further driver training may reduce premiums and add to the car's and driver's performance.

You must have something different in your set of MoT regulations over there than in England. Here some car owners and buyers think that if a car has a MoT pass then it must be good and fine until the next annual MoT test so I often point out that a (genuine) MoT pass only means the car passed the statutory minimum legal requirement at that one moment in time, to one (hopefully trained and qualified) person's opinion, it doesn't mean the car is good or as good as it should or could be and that the car could potentially fail another test the moment the first test has finished. But a minimum requirement is that the car is roadworthy and if there is something dangerous on or about the car then there is plenty in the MoT test to fail it and unless it was a dodgy MoT it would be failed and the driver told he couldn't drive it on the road until it was put right. No genuine tester would take any chances over anything dangerous, and the word dangerous can appear in a MoT fail sheet with as many items that meet the criteria. Many places only do MoT tests to pick up the work that can follow from even a "PASS" without any "advisories" let alone a "PASS" with "advisories" or a "FAIL". Cars over 40 years old do not need to take a MoT test but if they do they must "PASS" to be allowed to be used on the roads again though much of the modern MoT doesn't and/or can't apply you can fail by just having a bulb not illuminating, empty windscreen washer bottle, etc..

I'm not saying it's impossible that an MoT tester over here is an engineer but I believe generally they are mechanics or perhaps technicians, AFAIK they have to be qualified but you can easily get variances as to their qualified opinion of a condition of something on or about the car which another qualified MoT tester may give a different conclusion to. Bearing mind all results only apply to that one point in time and conditions can change. I was told by one mechanic that my wife's one year old Skoda replacement front dampers would fail the upcoming MoT test so when I got the Skoda Dealership to get in replacement front dampers under warranty and complete an MoT at no charge they reported back to my wife that the new replacement damper were not fitted as they were not required because the Dealership MoT tester (they decline my idea of taking the car elsewhere to get the MoT done) stated they did not require replacement dampers as the one fitted only had "slight misting" and that was normal and acceptable for those dampers. It was not even recorded as an Advisory on the MoT which I had learnt might be the case elsewhere. Qualified people work on personal opinions too, hopefully based on their training and experience.

I have no idea in your case but as a total generalisation, having access to other vehicles as a named driver and putting other named driver(s) on your insurance can often help with lowering the premiums a bit, did you try either to see if it made a difference to the premium. Even experimenting with job titles and type of employer can give different results but always be truthful and the insurers have got better at theses categories and some jobs and employers can cover more than one given category (perhaps best not to put you're a spy unless it's information already freely available or given out to the internet). Applying later for insurance can also make a difference to the premium offered, I too wondered why you didn't research before you passed your test, and well done on passing your test, also why you don't want a black box. Statistics are against you, you are young, and just passed your test in first year of qualified driver, I know I and perhaps the others here might have added to those statistics when young many decades back, if claims and reports were bothered with given the cheap bangers and old cars I had back then. You want to have any car and drive it for a good while before deciding what might be right or wrong with it or need improving as you may change your thoughts with the experience plus need the money for full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs particularly with a second hand and it's not know to you. Best changes you can make to the vehicle to improve it's performance - and I know this won't please you but all here were your age once and thought we were improving our cars with a multitude of aftermarket stuff much of which done nothing, very little or made things worse - best tuning after fully and properly to the whole car servicing, maintenance and repairs particularly of the important items like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include good tyres) then lights and any safety electrics (horn, wiper motor, blower, etc.) then engine. After that, but you might want a bit of a rest from it for a while, but then further driver training and this can be transferred to future cars at no additional cost just practice of it. - Can also help lower premiums sometimes. I don't know a/the 2017 CE Fabia is it a petrol, diesel, 1.0, 1.2, higher or lower horsepower options - does any of this affect the premium (my wife has a 2015, 1.2 Se Fabia but we are both very old oxygen-thieves). Try all the things suggested on this thread to see if you can get a better premium but bear in mind often you get what you pay for with insurance, a cheap insurance can be just that cheap but very expensive if you need to claim on it - and don't get desperate and fall for any insurance scams out there, generally if it looks too good to be true then it is. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I some times wonder if you are the type to be a disciple or supporter of the likes of Andrew Tate but realise it's more likely that he might be a follower or supporter of you. You too seem to have enough time to follow my posts and put sometimes long posts of your own to explain or get at me, I'm pleased you have this free time available as it must be very relaxing for you, I'm glad to be of this benefit to you. How can I be lonely when I have the company of friends like you, I'm beginning to like you a little despite your restricted repertoire. Knitting is poor as an insult, I wish I could knit, I tried it once but was hopeless, I've also seen bearded military men with big-forearms proudly knitting but they didn't use make-up on their facial and head hair. Chat bot, I wonder who you could have been conversing with. 😄

@Thefeliciahacker once again thank you for replying, it might be a difference in language but I could not get the meaning of destroy and damage you have now explained to me from what you initially put. I don't agree that anyone looking for replacement shocks will mistake the information about Koni DAMPERS 🙂 for anything other than has been put. You must also consider that at some point(s) original parts will be unavailable or no longer available. I have been using cars older than the Felicia as daily drivers for longer than you have been alive let alone interested in them so I do have some experience and dare 🙂 I say knowledge of finding technical knowledge and replacement parts dealing with retailers, suppliers and manufactures (and for other items before the "classic" cars). Different times and different places but I can understand anyone at anytime wanting to have fun in fact they must, D.FYLAKTOS has fun driving his Felly up mountain roads and so far at least hasn't killed himself or anyone else (that he's told us about anyway). Up to you what you do but I think and know from personal experience that if you think of women not as chicks but as equal to yourself (or perhaps realise they're generally better if you're a typical heterosexual male) then you will still be able to have fun with just as many girls/women as you want, realise some/many/all may want exact the same as you. I have been to a Porsche test track wet skid pan at Silverstone (about 10 or so miles down the road) a couple of times on Aston Martin Owners Club charity runs (AM factory used to be 20 miles away and I lived about 4 miles from it when I was young) and from what I could see it was the drivers that failed not the cars even those that had non-standard suspension, about half the cars on the run were other than AM. I didn't need to prove I wasn't a good driver and I wasn't in my car for the runs. Young people of your age, boys and girls, would test their cars' capabilities on shopping centres car parks, I think D.FYLAKTOS is well passed that stage of life and too sensible to test to extreme his suspension on wet or dry public roads. Best tuning (after full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs) you can do on a car to increase its performance is driver training and its transferable to many other vehicles. No I wasn't, I put car, components parts as you didn't specify so I couldn't put any particular part of the car, I wasn't thinking of total destruction of the car and didn't realise you meant destroy near purity of the geometry, I think most people would have thought of something physical being damaged and also not in an ultimate crash like the image that was posted, I thought you meant parts or components or part of the car would be damaged which I think most people would consider a reasonable line of thinking if not studying suspension engineering. I've no idea of the percentage of course but I can well imagine that some or perhaps many might just guess, over here I'm sure many just guess too but we do have plenty of specialist in exhaust design, build and install and some specialising in particular makes or types of vehicles. I took my Midget to one and for a middle pipe, there was no computer design used just a length of (header) pipe off the pile and a bit of bending. They had to come out and measure the track of the Midget to make sure they could close the width of their lift enough to get the Midget on it and asked me to drive the car on as it was a pretty close thing when closed up. Just because someone hasn't studied at engineer level doesn't mean they haven't had lots of experience with cars and a lot more than I wanted of those experiences with engineers, mechanics and company owners have been bad, I expect to some extent D.FYLAKTOS has had similar experience so we don't accept all that some engineers, mechanics and company owners tell us is the gospel truth and even not just conning us - present company excepted - meaning I am in no way suggesting you or RicardoM are putting anything but what you know or believe or have any interest in conning anyone, just we have got used to asking questions to confirm matters.

Does this mean program and register the oil pressure regulator valve, or the new EFB battery or both? I can't see the point of a tech fitting a new battery and having an appropriate scan tool for the job and not doing at least changing the serial number and it would be good if he gave you a report of the car as it is when he first scanned it showing battery details and all error codes and then another report after he 'codes' for the new battery and has deleted all error codes that will delete. There was a chap with another model who despite having an appropriate scan tool left the battery change and coding to a professional auto-electrician and months later was on the forum because of battery and other problems and he followed the suggestion of checking the battery 'coding' to find the professional auto-electrician had made the mistake of entering 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (why the computer program allowed this is another mistake to me). The chap fitted a new battery and 'coded' it himself and his problems went away. I am not saying that all your problems, or possibly any of them, are now related to the battery 'coding' because I and others can't see the information or known what the tech has fully done or not done and you might have more than one issue with the car but personally I would want to be shown or emailed a a scan report showing the present battery coding and preferably also a scan report from the first scan as we can all make mistakes and I see no reason why a tech should not give you such information. It should be saved on his machine particularly if his repairs and (hopefully) diagnosis is ongoing. A scan tool is another diagnosis tool that gives information that needs to be interpreted, it can sometimes point directly at the origin of a problem, as perhaps here, or present information for the tech to asses and diagnosis what the problem might be. Again I am not saying the following is the case here just general info for you, some people just shoot the massager and change the part that gives bad news show on the scan tool. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

You could try asking in the relevant Fabia forum. If it's a Mk3 Fabia I'd be interested to know too.

I think Andreas 'Thefeliciahacker' generally seems a good sort (as we say in England) I'm not sure about the "chicks" and "chick" references but I'm not in or from Greece, he gives lots of good and helpful advice in a honest manner. The arrogance is to say D.FYLAKTOS will destroy or damage his car or parts of it and not say what when D.FYLAKTOS has put that his car has been the way it is for 21(?) years. So it must be very slow destruction and damage and considering very few (in the UK at least) have managed to keep Felicias still used on the roads let alone used regularly and driven in a very spirited manner on mountain road. The effect is D.FYLAKTOS and I have been told this will happen because as an engineer has said,, which is fair enough as a higher level of expertise, but the evidence appears to show that this hasn't happened. It might be disturbing to you, but I am not you which I am sure we are both very relieved about, I have seen D.FYLAKTOS take advice but yes he does want to test the advice for himself and see what suits his needs and and wants. Good to know you have some empathy, it must have hurt for you to admit to it. 😉 I get what you want but your methods have been very blunt, often nasty and worst of all for you very ineffective to your original your aims, so as you would with a car, mechanical or engineering problems you must try something else that might resolve your issue rather than using a BFH that's getting you nowhere slowly. But that's just advice for you and I'm not a professional qualified expert of course. You put you want the threads to have correct definitive answers and not misinformation yet there doesn't appear to be a definitive answer here and the only information I can see here is that D.FYLAKTOS' suspension seems to have defied being destroyed or damaged, at least outside what is considered legal in Greece - unless he has a professional examiner that is prepared to give vehicle examination passes without seeing that particular vehicle or use results from another vehicle as some professionals do in the UK (MoT over the phone, as I call it). If Andreas doesn't want to answer me that is fine, nobody is under any obligation to answer any post here and I accept sometimes it's better not to give an answer but I don't under why on this one one but if I can't persuade an answer I certainly can't force one, or you to read passed the second line. 😉

Thanks for replying No I'm not. And how else do you think companies sell their products to the general public, they're not selling exclusively to engineers or trade/commercial concerns with a general website. I do understand and I never put you should not put facts or accept misconceptions. Though you before you could almost guarantee something was a fact and followed with you only deal in facts but I took that as a typo or 'misspeak'. I am advising you not to become too arrogant as some can be, you need some arrogance but then you're best to be certain of your facts, that they are correct and up to date. You will do as you please but I bet you will think differently and be different in 20 or 30 years, but then I can't guarantee it. That's great and pretty rare in my experience and I include myself. Uhmmmmmm? Is it the one that keeps asking questions or the one that dictate what answers are to be given. 🤣 Sorry I couldn't resist. C'mon then please tell me what physical damage will D.FYLAKTOS' set up do, simply name parts damaged (not a lesson in maths and geometry please as it's all beyond me) - I won't "dare" you as I've not heard of such since I left infant school, I just ask you again. If you want to have a laugh or extract the urine out of D.FYLAKTOS or me it's fine by me but in my opinion best not lead by the would-be despot autocratic dictator - but you do as you please and run with who you please, I'm not your parents or grandparents (or senior engineering tutor) to give you advice about life.

That will put more load on battery and alternator on top of all the other electric heating, motors and electrics on the car so if not already fitted you might (only when required) changed to a larger Ah and perhaps AGM (fleece) 12v battery. If required, even more reason for preventative battery charging and maintaining as the computers run on 5v and they don't usually like the battery getting too low and may make you suffer for that perhaps even before many warning messages and lights. IIRC my wife's 2015 car thinks a car battery is for 5 years (and the alarm battery) owners have proved this to be very pessimistic but it does rely on the owner/driver and and 2019 car owners seem more accepting to a battery life of 5 or 4 years. Only one small thing but it does highlight differences between 2006, 2011, 2015 and 2019 models. I could also be wrong (as I am often) but I personally can't see a 2019 Mk3 Fabia being as good overall longer term ownership experience as a Mk1 or 2006, 2011 model of car, I think the pinnacle has passed but who knows it might return and be surpassed. I've seen others put about remapping for mpg rather than power or ego figures but I've no idea how this affects their insurance and can't remember seeing it on 95 but I might have forgotten, not noticed or missed it. Plenty of threads about mapping here and IIRC recently on mpg mapping and of course power and ego figures but I think you'd be after torque figures and so perhaps mpg too rather than max bhp power and ego figures. VWSkoda isn't the only fruit on the market and Fabia not the only variety if you want VWSkoda, perhaps a slightly different and/or larger and more luxurious model may suit you and be ULEZ.

@ThefeliciahackerI don't know the two companies but do know business very generally (some areas very specifically) but wonder if Koni also engage engineers for the research, design and fitment of their products to the vehicles they are to be fitted to and then perhaps development from use and sales and I would be very surprised if VW didn't employ, internally and externally, very many people in the marketing of their vehicles. Many companies may train their new intake of say engineers, or marketing people or others, and may tell them that they, the engineers or marketing people or others, are the backbone, survival and profit of the company, the present and future of the company which may give some of the engineers or or marketing people or others, a feeling of (greater) importance of their position in and to the company than any/most others in the company when the truth is all people and jobs are important to the company and contribute positives, and some negatives, to the company. Please don't fall into the trap of some engineers and acquire excess arrogance (similar to a medical surgeon but without the extra education, training and experience and often good looks) and look down on others and think you can learn nothing from them (often because they think they already know everything when that is impossible and they can be out of date and wrong with what they know). The jobs you may well want in the future may be ripe picking for AI.

@hzoltaan- couple of quick general thoughts, especially from rebuilding the engine, have you double-checked everything that you have already checked or double-checked or got a fresh pair of eyes to do so. Haynes like all other sources of information (especially me) has errors and omissions and somethings have moved on and/or changed since the books were first published ( petrol, oils, parts quality -up and down, etc., etc.). Over the internet are things about counterfeit NGK plugs, I have no idea how accurate or widespread this really is but counterfeit it was said decades back about counterfeit parts at Merc UK Dealerships but the UK motor trade is rammed full of dodgy people and practices. If you don't have access to compressed air did you also do a wet compression tests. End of quick thoughts (on this at least) I have to put things as I think of them or I forget and I forget enough already. Cheers.

VIN will give pab567 the information he requires - you could perhaps PM it if you don't want to post it here. The VIN is on your V5C (logbook) plates on the car and perhaps(?) paper label in the boot.

Ask the Dealership or warranty company if this is covered. Are you closing the window with the engine running or not, if not perhaps low battery and/or the guides need cleaning and lubricating or it could be the regulator or motor or some alignment or partial blockage issue. I'd start with at least reporting it and seeing if it's covered or chargeable, then if required cleaning/lubricating (many servicing, maintenance, repairs, computer stuff often boils down to some sort of cleaning and lubricating). If you have access to a relevant scan tool it could give you further diagnosis and testing. Last for me personally would be taking the door panel off and messing with parts.

Hi, welcome. If you've not already done so, read your Owner's Manual and it will tell you a lot about the car and using and driving it. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a free pdf downloaded from Skoda. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models And here to check for updates. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ And here for Recalls (that VWSkoda have actually admitted to) possibly the battery one for you if not already attended to. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Videos of useful info and tips (some backing up some of what's in the Owners Manual). - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 HTH.

Good point. Is there much loaded weight difference between a 95 and 110 - could that be more about marketing and 'mine's bigger than yours' driver appeal or perhaps for a 110 owner to be expected to drive faster and brake harder, and perhaps later. Better tyres help with better braking with 110 or 95 or 288 or 256. As always each to their own and have what you want/need.

My wife's 2015 SE IIRC has - an out of date puncture repair bottle, horrible little plug-in inflator thing (I always use manual foot pump), bent bit of wire for pulling out rear light cluster and (doesn't work on) front wheel arch bulb covers, a double ended screwdriver, security wheel bolt key, tow hook, plastic wheel nut cover remover tool, polystyrene moulding. I can't check as the car's not here. Just found this, it looks complete but my wife's car was s/hand when she bought it. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115469883015

I can only put about my wife's 2015, Mk3, hatch, 1.2 TSI, 90, 4-cylinder, SE, 5-speed manual. @Rooted can give you info on the DSG boxes, there's enough computer program interference with manual boxes for me without introducing more but others will have other opinions and I haven't driven with a DSG (but other makes and and systems, Mercs, Renault-Nissan and other(s) I forget). As far as I can see from the various forums, threads and posts on here the Mk3 doesn't seem as well built as a Mk2 or Mk1, the later Mk2s at least weren't as well built as the Mk1s. The 90 (1.2 TSI 4-cylinder) has more than enough when carry just the driver or driver and passenger but with a couple of extra people on board (or perhaps heavy luggage?) the difference is noticeable but depends on what you want and expect and what you drive on and how. Obviously the torque is entirely different to a diesel and different muck coming out of the exhaust but perhaps less of it and none to see unlike the diesel on ordinary diesel fuel. The 5-speed box in my wife's car is fine to the engine, depending on what car's you are used to driving it seems a bit slow and no so precise on change feel even for a family saloon but I've never fully believed in the 'German engineering quality' marketing for this century at least perhaps different models and boxes are better but the box in my wife's car is OK for its purpose. Personally a 2019 car is as new as I would ever consider (I drive my neighbour's 23 plate Renault-Nissan) for all the stuff that has to be on the year of cars and all the driver's extra and computer programs' intrusions that stop or hinder the driver driving the car or stilting the driving pleasure, when available. More sensors, modules, computer programs and the stop/start mean more computer joys' and battery use so I think back to the days of having and using a battery charger (and maintainer now). On the plus side of the computers if you want to be more of a passenger behind the steering wheel there is more to help you with that and if you want higher mpg the potential is better with the newer cars. Cabin spaced is very good for the size of the car, seats comfort is always a matter of personal size and shape. The oversized wheels and tyres with narrow band is (? I think) even more exaggerated than earlier models and can be more so if you want. Handling on the SE isn't sporting but any handling can be fun if you drive within it's (and your) limit. My wife's car had to have the front dampers changed at 6years old and 41k-miles, a mate has a 29 year old Toyota Supra still on factory fitted dampers and springs all round and few parts ever replaced a neighbour with a not so well looked after 20+ year old Toyota Yaris still on factory fitted dampers and springs and very few other parts replaced. Don't get caught with paying for a cambelt change like we and many others have. The computer programs can give all sorts of under bonnet engine noises you just have to let them get on with it and bumps/rattles/squeaks come from under the car on the earlier Mk3s at least it seems and they can be hard to locate or even stop it seems. This might seem a strange thing to suggest but I would read the Owner's Manual for the car you are considering as it can tell you a lot about driving and owning the car how different it is to your present car(s). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Others will hopefully be along to give you a more glowing review, I also drive another neighbour's 2005 small Korean car and I find that overall more comfortable than my wife's Fabia and a lot less annoying to drive than my other neighbour's 23 plate Renault Nissan with 5-speed manual and stop/start.

You would have to contact Skoda or the seatbelt manufacturer about parts but I can't imagine they would sell anything but a full seat belt but I could be wrong. You could see if used parts are available, probably as a complete working stalk and catch, perhaps best to avoid any where the vehicle has been in a serious crash and if it is driver's side then those are the most worn anyway so age/use considerations. When changing the stalk you might (I don't know) have to consider unplugging a connector, getting at the connector, perhaps disconnecting the battery and whatever is required not to upset any VW computer system or computer safety system. A new screw is required and that it is clean when fitting. Also if I remember correctly(?) and it still applies but I don't know, it used to be that UK cars used imperial threads and sizes for seatbelt anchor point fittings even if the rest of the car was metric, whether that applied or makes any difference to the UK Skoda seat belt stalk part or fitting I have no idea. I have fitted seatbelts to old British cars and it was quite straight forward but I have no idea with modern cars. In the UK you didn't have to legally wear front seatbelts until the 1980s (IIRC) and rear seatbelts later still, though anchor point had to be installed by the car manufacturer since 1963(?) IIRC(?), a UK 1970s car might have front seatbelts fitted from factory but not rear ones. We are grateful to Sweden for the three-point but like many things England had the start of a seat belt all much earlier and let it slip by. There might be a part number on the stalk/catch even perhaps a VW one but I really don't know. Perhaps others will have more and better ideas and information than me. Let us know how you get on, good luck.

Are they both from the same car and both factory original, only the image on the right looks the same as the front seat buckles in my wife's 2015UK MK3 Fabia, the image on the left I have no idea if it is broken or a just a different type of buckle to go into it. If you have anything broken on a seatbelt then replace it, the seatbelt serves an important purpose and just like you should not rely and wait for any dash warnings you should not rely on the SRS airbags especially without fully working seatbelts being worn, but I expect you do not need telling that living in Sweden with your country's history of seatbelts.

@Vam as above best to have a EFB or AGM battery and 'coded' correctly particularly if you want or have to have the stop/start system active. But an alternative in short or medium or perhaps long term, depending on how old your conventional battery is and its life's use and abuse you could retain it for longer (or much longer) by charging it up and if your state laws allow it disconnecting the battery monitor connection at the negative battery connection so that the stop/start system is inactive. VCDS isn't the only system that can do the battery coding, basically as put before you want the Ah of the battery correct (or near enough perhaps) and the type e.g EFB/AGM (fleece) and change the "serial number" often/sometimes(?) ten ones (1111111111) from the VW's factory, the make is of battery can be left the same or ignored, JCB from factory and to five characters in the name code in my example below done with an OBDEleven computer program. I have no idea if the VW computer programs would allow you to 'code' on VCDS or the VW 'coding' programs to conventional battery and get it charged through the car's battery computer program but if it didn't make the stop/start inactive you would want to otherwise it would get through a conventional battery quicker.