Former

@D.FYLAKTOS how long were the dampers fitted and used on the car before they needed a "rebuild"?

Where Is the servo, could it not be repaired rather than replaced? I can't but imagine it behind the rear seats with the battery

That doesn't sound right, are you sure the hissing is from the brakes, is the brake fluid level going down and if so do you know where all the brake fluid is exiting the system. Usual bleed points are at each wheel. Have a look at the appropriate parts drawing. - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/sk+105+20+30+35+36+garde/sko/1983-106/6/ ETA: It has been over 30 years since I had an Estelle 2 and the cars were under warranty and Dealership serviced so I don't remember the braking system.

Yes a right mess. Have you got a leak/water ingress. I prefer to use Contralube 770 a small sachet will last ages, I apply with a very small artist brush (£1 packet of 10). - https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/contralube-770-the-terminal-connector

RAC warns UK drivers about post-Christmas flat batteries - RAC reports that they deal with more flat batteries on the first working day of each year than on any other day. Of the 12,000 breakdowns they attend on 2nd Jan 28% were for flat batteries. "Battery issues are the number-one reason for calling out RAC patrols all year round, but the breakdown and driving services company expects to attend a record 12,000 breakdowns on Tuesday 2 January 2024. Based on data from previous years, it estimates that three-in-10 (28%) of these will be due to flat batteries." - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/avoid-a-flat-start-to-2024-rac-warns-drivers-to-check-their-car-batteries/ Among other things, they suggest using the car regularly instead of just leaving it idle - I suggest taking advantage of the car not needing to be used and carry out a preventative low (amps) long and slow charge of the battery, using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, it's extremely easy and clean hands work. Some other tips: Park in a garage where possible Make sure everything electrical is turned off when you park up Check the battery connections are tight (and free from any crud) Don't let the battery get too low, just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the charge can still be too low, especially for the car's computers. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499006-car-battery-now-is-the-time-to-check-it/

You might want to add a dab of something to keep the water out an/or help against crud formation on the connector and/or metal pins and sockets.

Sorry my last comments were for skomaz, by "passenger behind the steering wheel active version" I meant the active cruise control, or whatever it is called, that keeps your car a certain distance behind the car in front of you and adjust the speed of your car as required to maintain this. I had no idea that there is/was a model called Active if that's what you meant. I forgot to mention in my previous post the possibility of any outstanding updates to the computer programs or outstanding Recalls for anything that VWSkoda are actually admitting to. Recalls - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Again I am out of ideas.

We have tracks but why would you need or want to with a road car, if the car suspension settings are that badly out you also need a tow car and trailer to get it to the track. Just a matter of being sensible make minor adjustment by road use and sensible drives and building up as is sensible. This is car drivers stuff not crazy motorbikers (or organ-donors as they're sometimes referred to) stuff. OFF-TOPIC WARNING: - When I was young I used to got to hardcore bikers (black leather jackets, cut-off with studs and oil covered jeans) pubs and events as I liked the music, but I have never had a motorbike in my life particularly after having a pillion ride on one of my biker mate's bike. I vowed if I ever got on the back of bike again I would have my hands not on the back of the seat but around the testicles of the bloke up front to control his ego. BTW - heavy metal was Black Sabbeth but I don't remember it being called that, it was known as Heavy (or 'eavy as most of us commoners don't pronounce the h at the start of words) and despite "heavy metal thunder" being in the lyrics of Steppenwolfe's Born to be wild. Deep Purple were known as hard rock and I didn't see heavy metal used until an AC/DC cover on a, released later, 7" vinyl single. At the time it came out Meatloaf's Bat out of Hell LP, all the tracks, was on all the time at the biker's pub I went to, strange as it's all theatrical rather than heavy.

On blowing your photo up it looks the connector might be held together by a very small torx screw but there are also slots under the connector pins that might (or might not) be some sort of release or removal of the pins or sockets - but I don't know and all would be too small for my eyes in real life. Bear in mind removing the connector block will have a live pin/wire terminal when the lights are on and usual precautions with car electrics. You might be able to clean and reuse part or all of the connector and get new pins, or get a new connector the same/similar-enough, or If you're not too worried about originality and there the rom to do so you might be able to change to another type of connector @Breezy_Pete and others would be best for advice on this. For me it'd be interesting to know what caused this as my wife's car is a 2015 and has already annoyed me too many times with it's German engineering quality but this might not originate from a manufacturer's fault perhaps. Good luck.

And what works well on a track often doesn't on the roads, that applies to this and other modifications and tuning why is you shouldn't expect too much from a road car when it's on a track.

Sports, sporty, sporting are only terms, words, marketing, any car can be a sports version. Sports cars that actually are used in sports need not be that sports, sporty, sporting, some manufacturers, particularly the German ones, are happy for their road vehicles to be thought of as sports, sporty, sporting to help with sales and prestige. My qualifications are that I have owned and driven cars commonly know as "sports" and even track use cars, not German marque ones but I know quite a few owners of such with and without the higher prestige tuners badges on them and I owned three (road only) Skoda Estelle 2 when they were doing well in the motorsport of Rallying. And of course the previously mentioned Fiat Cinquecento Sporting, it's even in the name. 😄

Sorry you posted whilst I was typing, see my previous post with quote that might( ?) cover/answer your question. I think, but can't remember or don't know as I avoid such stuff, cc only starts at a speed above 31kph but I've no idea of the passenger behind the steering wheel active version. Apologies if I'm wrong with any or all of this.

To summarise (repeat) for others as I'm out of ideas (as usual). 2019, Fabia Mk3 1.0 TSI, 90, 5 speed, 160,000 km 100,000 miles, sales rep company car previously, serviced as such (every 15,000 km).

ETA: A further point of the posts is to give thread viewers a wider education/experience/view/opinion (delete as you find appropriate) view on dampers / springs / suspension which can be taken or left as desired. For qualification - I had Bilstein and Eibach (lowered kit) fitted to my Fiat Cinquecento Sporting after I took the car over from my wife. The car was badged and sold by Fiat as a Sporting - 53 hp, and great fun, especially on its factory standard lowered suspension. I saw a factory standard well used road example embarrass the likes of a reasonable Ford GT40 replica/kit at Bruntingthorpe proving ground on the bends but you see that often with small agile cars against big "fast" cars. As I suspected the Cinquecento was driven by a motorbike rider, he had recently bought it because he had 11 points (out of an allowed 12) on his driving licence and being a true bike fan didn't bother with cars much so was very impressed with how well the little car went. I have also had Koni, Spax, AVO and others on, or fitted to, various cars I have owned over the decades. I had two brand new factory built cars, both undisputable sports cars, one a year after the other, same model but slightly bigger engine in one, slightly smaller engine with "sports suspension" and slightly larger engine with "road suspension" and the sports suspension was the inferior on the UK roads with my use and driving. These of course are generalisations as I have no experience of a Felicia or its suspension.

Always a rush for the sexy parts like dampers and springs but often overlooked and often more effective is checking, or changing, the suspension bushes for good quality appropriate ones in good condition and as much as you can on the model any alignment/geometry. Makes and models of the sexy parts is often about what suits the driver or possibly the brand's advertising and marketing power or current fashion 'coolness' for those that are concerned about such things. Going to smaller manufacturers you can get custom assembled items for reasonable costs but I doubt even the bigger manufacturers have done much testing on less fashionable cars. ETA: last posts has proved me wrong - but maybe the exception that proves the rule. Then once you have what you have chosen there's a lot of driving and testing to see what settings suits you, your driving and the roads you are going on. I would take the recommendation of a Felicia owner and driver like RicardoM into serious consideration and the fact that they are designed in CR specifically for Felicia.

A 2019 Fabia Mk3 1.0 TSI, 90 owner may be able to give you a direct succinct answer but sorry that's not me in either owner or reply. A bit more information may be required, does your car have a Gasoline Particle Filter, which gearbox does it have, when does this happen before the engine fully warms up (oil temperature) or after, have you got a lot of electrical load on at the time (heaters, blower, air-con), what is the state of battery charge, are you driving it too slow for gears or road conditions. Have you put any car settings that might influence this. Have a read of your Owner's Manual for your car to see what might apply. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you bought it from a Skoda Dealer or other garage you could go back and ask them. 100,000 miles is higher than normal (sometimes a very good thing) for a four year old car so do you have full servicing, maintenance and repairs history for the car and know when and what servicing, maintenance and repairs were most recently. Did you or the seller use a VW appropriate scan tool to check for error codes before or just after the bought the car. Good luck.

I don't know if there are any but have you looked and considered posting in 'Wheels & Tyres For Sale' section of Marketplace. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/

If you have not already done so fully and properly check the state of charge (and if possible state of health) of the battery, I wouldn't assume that the Skoda garage has, unless they proved it. Have you checked that the battery terminal post clamps are secure (don't twist) and main earth connection is good? Start with the basics, and in this case easy clean-hands stuff. Put the battery on an appropriate battery charger maintainer (lower amps for longer is my preference) checking the car's Owner's Manual and consulting the manual for the charger for correct way with both (and slowest charge rate for my preference). Don't just think your battery is fine without doing proper checks. The computers run on 5v which gets a bit too thin when the battery is well below snuff (as you see I'm not technical). As you had all the warnings on the car it's unlikely to be your OBDEleven at error or the car's port socket or wiring. You may have more than one problem happening at the same time or one issue (like low battery) causing, or a contributing cause, to one/some/all other problems. Failing that it looks like you might have intermittent connections/wires/computers/programs problem(s) with the electrics/electronics or their parts otherwise the Skoda diagnostics (depending on what it was, or was done) would have picked up on it. Whenever you having (starting or) electrical problems having a fully charged battery will not hinder things but can help or even cure somethings but having a battery that is too low in charge can hinder or even stop diagnosis and/or repairs. It's so easy to charge the battery to full and if it doesn't need much it won't take long to find that out and whilst the charger is doing its work you can be doing anything, in warmth and comfort, more rewarding and pleasurable than working on a car. Leaving a charger maintainer on overnight and it's working while your sleeping, difficult to get easier car work than that. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Might, or might not, be the following as in my wife's 2015, good luck.

As pab567's reply earlier in the thread or you could try a radio reset, I'm not sure how you do that so you'll have to search for that, or it might be press and hold the on/off button until a menu screen or reset happens BUT I don't know if that's correct.

That could be a good or not so good sign, depends on the battery and perhaps the charger/ maintainer you used - time will tell, hopefully you might have one less light drain. 👍 Can't hurt, if doesn't need much or any it won't take long or be very quick, the battery is designed to be charged. Not sure if to laugh or cry for you, bad back is no laughing matter, I know from the stupid VW wheel bolts instead of studs giving me a type of Sciatica problem from about 5 years ago and off 'n' on up to even today - %$£*&^% "German engineering quality". I fight the VW computer programs on my wife's 2015 and on driving my neighbour's 2023 Nissan-Renault I had to find out how to cancel all the automatic driving "niceties", the automatic electronic handbrake is a pain and the computer's start/stop and thinking about acceleration from stop or not can have the car hesitating, or stopping on trying to get out quick on roundabouts, not just for me but my neighbour too - and he suggested using the automatic cruise control too! I don't think it's a good idea to be a passenger behind the steering wheel.

Yes, thanks. I tested the link and the password given and it goes to the file. comment-5813324 - click on the top bit below, as this bit below - Link below. @pab567 you might want this too.

@pab567 any advice you can give please?

Hi Liz welcome, the chap that used to have an update hasn't been on the forum for months for some reason(s) and the other chap that deals with infotainment IIRC doesn't have it. Assuming (always dangerous) the program relates to other models too you could try a Search of the site to see if anyone else on another model forum has it but you might have to go through the thread/posts.

Oh 😄 I thought it might be some fancy heater ventilation system. I wonder if causes less, more or no difference (not that don't know). Not being able to use it on some setting and the air-con coming on if the blower is on every time I switch to screen annoys me. Like I put I'm going to try not setting to screen straight off on misting (inside) mornings and I was going to try something else someone suggested but I forgot what as I don't get many cold / wet morning starts as it's my wife's car. She travels 2 miles to work and 2 miles back most working days now as she doesn't have to go to other work locations occasionally as much as she used to and she might go on other short journeys too. There are some longer runs sometimes for shopping (food or charity shops mainly) and they can be 10, 20 or 30 miles but as we no longer go to N. Yorks, or other places, there are few longer runs. As I've not put a coin slot meter on the car I notice lot more electrics are used when I'm not in the car. 🙂 I've not notice this with my wife's car, perhaps it happens but I've not noticed. Window open and you can get a face wash from the wipers or water blowing off the screen IIRC. On another thread someone has expressed surprise that the start/stop function has retuned by charging the battery rather than replacing it with new, and there have been other threads with unexpected warnings and issues that have gone away after charging the battery despite the posters taking some convincing because the battery seemed OK and the car starts fine, lets hope it's the same for you with the EPC light.