Former

The following video seems good for giving general background info to P0111 but you could try clearing all error codes and see what returns and which might be first to return. Different scan tools can give different readings. Intake Air Temperature Sensor P0111 / P0112 / P0113 | How to Test and Replace - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0c3gzm9464 ETA: Bob, I don't know 2019 cars (far, far too modern for me) do I take it that it's a 1.0 3-cylinder(estate) engine code does it for those with more knowledge.

From my neighbour's Ring RSC612 (12 amp battery charger / tester). - An article of t'web, selling sum'at so 'oo knows. -"Fact is, AGM batteries must be charged and maintained differently to standard lead-acid batteries. A simple rule of thumb: AGM batteries hold a higher voltage and therefore need to be charged and maintained at a higher voltage." - https://theshopmag.com/features/how-get-most-out-agm-batteries/ With the following I am not suggesting anyone needs to or should follow what I done, perhaps I'm a maverick that likes to live dangerously. I topped-up fully charged the new AGM bought before fitting it to my wife's Fabia Mk3, I used one or both (I forget) of my 20+ and 30+ year old standard chargers, perhaps by doing this I might have shorted the life of the battery from 10 to 9 years or 4 to 5 as VW would have it, who knows, only time will tell. That if the car's alternator doesn't play up or the battery isn't abused by the owner and users. The internet and the answers you can get is very democratic all answers there to suit everyone The Donald luvs it. 😄

As I know you don't believe me on such things there's loads of info on the internet about this. Why are you bothered about the health of the battery going in the scrap car. If you want to put some charge in the old battery using your charger then do so I'm sure you know enough not to do any damage that would matter for the very short time of the car being collected. I will dare to suggest that in my experience of old, flat/"dead" batteries using a 2, 3 or 4-amp or slow charge setting will be better than something like 12 amp on normal or quick charge which always seems to kill them if they're already in poor health - but that's just my totally unprofessional, non-expert (in any way) experience over a number of years with neighbours' and friends' car batteries. Then for your new battery in your new to you car buy yourself a 3 or 4-amp charger and maintainer suited to AGM they're not expensive I've seen people report success using £15 battery charger and maintainer from Aldi - only in case you accidentally drain your new battery too low for the computers or yourself as otherwise of course the car's alternator means you never need a battery charger. 😉

Always worth a look at the sensor and its connection and wiring just in case it's something obvious. Also check the engine air filter and its housing box to make sure they're not badly contaminated or full of whatever. You don't say what year (or other details) about your car so if the air filter hasn't been changed (VWSkoda put at a silly 6 years/ 60k-miles) then a new fresh good quality filter may help and often helps the engine regardless, stops some muck getting into the engine and expensive exhaust bits. Let us know how you get on. Example of car details to possible help with future posts or threads. -

Obviously coolant in oil isn't the only sign of HGF, difficult to start is another hence not wanting to confuse that with a weak battery, but having no milky mess on the underside of oil cap also hopefully means the car wasn't used or engine running only for short periods of time. I wasn't sure if I could see the, at the time ubiquitous, glass sunroof in the photos, yes the aerial was there, a much better location than the rear window as the heater was in the rear window it would cause radio interference when both were on. If you have the Driver's Handbook / Owner's Manual have a good read of that and refer to it frequently, I can't remember how thorough or comprehensive they were by that time and if they gave details of not only operating the car but also maintenance and servicing illustrations and instructions. Workshop manuals and the likes of Haynes don't cover the necessary information that the Driver's Handbooks do. If you have any paperwork and bills and receipts for the car put them in strict reverse chronological order and see what might still be relevant for condition and running of the car. Some people keep a receipt for a paint touch-up can from decades ago but loose the paperwork for the important stuff. With a very low mileage car a bill for a part from decades ago may still be relevant as the part may still be on the car which can be a good thing or not so good thing depending on the item, something like 20+ year old tyres generally are not good. Finding stuff left in the car can sometimes be interesting, amazing what some people leave.

Thing is the engine isn't really serviced at these oil changes and inspection services let alone servicing the whole car so I doubt many places look at an engine air filter if they're not scheduled to change it, I might be wrong about this I'll have to have a look at the lie tick sheets for my wife's car to check. I think it's ridiculous to leave it 6-years/60k-miles before changing the engine air filter but these German engineers must know what they're doing as German engineering is so good. My wife's filter was changed with changing the spark plugs which makes sense given the design of the air filter airbox removal and additional fun of the what's involved with the plugs.

That's a festoon bulb, whether it's the correct one or correct wattage I don't know. It might be a 239 in old English or C5W in other speak (C I can't think what, 5 I guess for 5 watts and W for white light) but do check and not just go on what someone tells you on the interweb-thingy, especially if 'es old and poor mental faculties . Plenty of cheap crap LEDs about but I and others have found Classic Car LEDs to be a good company to deal with and good products, check with them which products might work, personally I'd not go for the very bright white light as it tends to bleach out the area negating its intended use, warm white might not look as bright but will be bright. Old, quaint idea I know bit I'd phone them to make the situation clear and get proper advice or product, saves time in the medium and long term. Classic Car LEDs. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/

That could be for many reasons which is why it's best to be methodical and start with the basics and at the start of the basics. If you want to improve this you could consider how old the petrol is, whether it is E10 or E5, or if the previous owner used any additives. Then have a look (replace) the engine air filter and clean the housing on the inside and inside of all hoses/trunking to/from it it if required. Taking the air filter out IIRC and you should be able to see if the carb plate is in a right state or not or any blockages from storage or static lack of use of the car. TBH I'd not bother with the grille lights I've never found front spots or fog lights to be of much use. Brings me on to another thing I'd forgot, I always advise that you don't think about dealing with cosmetic changes or upgrades or improvements (unless the item needs to be replaced anyway) until at least 12 months of year round use of the car on reasonable length journeys through the range of driving environments and conditions. Otherwise you could be spending money on items that might be needed for more pressing and important items in the future plus as I put until you have fully driven the car in various circumstances you wont know what the car really needs and what you want with the car or what you get used to. What you think you want when first getting the car may change or disappear with using the car. Plus many improvements and upgrades can turn out to be the opposite or not the most effective way to make the upgrades or improvements you may want. A good battery in good condition and state of charge is always good but can be very necessary if you have electrical or starting issues as a good battery will help with diagnosing and sorting the issue whereas a poor and/or low battery will hinder and even perhaps cover what the actual cause is or that the issue has been resolved and the battery is now the issue. Good tyres can be a big improvement and upgrade for braking, steering, road holding ride comfort and noise. Memory is a funny thing, I remembered my Rapid as having a very variable wiper settings on the intermittent but when I looked at a Rapid at the NEC Classic Motor Show the three(?) switches weren't there. Has yours got the radio aerial in the rear window? Check you oil for coolant, and if you find it necessary after driving the car perhaps get a tester pipe kit as I remember head gasket failures weren't uncommon.

On my wife's 16 year old Cortina Mk3 (2000E) the ignition key lock was broken from an attempt to steal the car from the previous owner, it had the hook from a car seat cover left in permanently as the key, we of course immediately improved the car's security by removing it from the lock.

I'd not either, they're just bling to me and to me don't look good when secured with a cable-tie even if it is colour coded. Are black wheels still gansta, I've no idea of fashion or what der yuf, anyone under 45, think looks good. Black is nice and easy to slap a bit of paint on if required to stop and rust from chips or dents. You could paint the wheels before putting them on the car to make them more durable, obviously you don't want to trap any existing rust under the paint. I've never painted any wheels and can't remember what Smoothrite is like but the old Hammerite was the type of stuff that seemed susceptible to chipping. I'd just throw on some of that chip resistant stuff like they use on the car sills. Now, what colour tyres are you going for . . . I'll get me coat.

🤣 Thanks. Yes Dual Spark ignition, that's far too easy and I was being lazy assuming D was for diesel, I wasn't sure if the Honda Jazz even came in a diesel and wouldn't have guessed they'd have a twin spark. TBH I never really notice Jazz as, was it, 20 years back I thought it was large for a small car as I'm more used to the size of Civic from the the 1970s. I'm all for timely fluidly changes using good quality items but there's more to an engine service than just an oil and filter change and and even a full engine service isn't a whole car service. Some wouldn't bother doing anything to the car if they were doing your mileage. 16k-miles a year is a bit different from 275m in 4 months for mpg comparison, nothing wrong with saving petrol but the best way to do that is not to have a car. Every little helps, as Tesco tells us, but it's all a bit ridiculous when all general modern cars are so big and heavy with over big wheels full of fancy extras that get only occasional use, five seats and only the driver in the car, all a bit robbing Peter to pay Paul. I done decades of pleasure driving so there was little point me worrying too much about mpg but I can understand it for others. As I put before it'd be interesting to see what the Fife journeys bring and the mpg over the next four months, good luck with it. ETA: just noticed this 😄

Looks good, a quick wash and polish or wax for now just to protect it and if you clean the large black and glass areas (and reflective number plates the car will look cleaner and shinier if if you don't touch the paintwork at all. I used AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel, applied with a 25mm cube of clean used sponge (many over products are available). Clean black rubber seals last in case they shed their blackness. Clean from top to bottom, gutters, air vents, door handles, mirror overs, fuel cap, boot spoiler, front grille bumpers. For the tyres I use Armor All Tire Foam, spray and walk away, the way all cleaning should be. Don't fall into the standard "classic" car owner mindset of the carb needs fiddling with, yes it may need adjustment but it is on the end of the adjustment list for the engine and as I put before the engine is not the most important component, system or part on the car. Check and adjust as required in the order of valves (tappets), CB points, spark plugs, timing and carb mixture in that order, if you adjust any item in the chain then you need to check/adjust all items that follow. We've cover the ignition parts, personally after checking, charging or replacing the battery on an old car new to me for ignition I'd put in new spark plugs as they so inexpensive and to be sure of their condition and I'd take a good look at and check the HT lead set too as again good quality sets are so inexpensive now or you can make up your own sets, Just because parts like spark plugs and HT leads are working doesn't mean they're working well I always expected my "classics" to run well and not be the stereotypical slow, unreliable, poor handling old car that unfortunately many "classics" are because of the owners. As I put before between using or running the car so you get to know it, how to drive it and what it is capable of and what niggles need sorting first, I'd do a staged full 36k-mile service/check. 30+ years of getting "classics" has given me a very little knowledge (what and when I remember) but also a lot of expensive experience, avoid the expensive bit and make use of my experience for free with the advice I've given. And keep on top of the servicing and maintenance, it's not really that much once you have the car reasonably sorted. I noticed it has the lights in the grille which I thought I had on one of my three Estelles but they're not on any of the photos I still have, they were an option IIRC. It might be my memory or because it's a later car than my three but I don't remember the dash being like that. I do remember all the storage space available, the front boot and the very useful out of sight behind the rear seats. I expect you've seen the Hubnut and others videos of driving Estelles, the Hubnut vid particularly is how you can drive them and have fun on interesting roads, get into the driving and away from carb-fiddling as soon as you can. Enjoy.

Just thought - you'd might(?) / probably(?) need the chipped key to turn the ignition on and get the alarm off.

Hi, welcome. Have a look at your Owner's Manual for info on this and lots more, even very simple job you've been doing for decades it's still best to refer to the Owner's Manual as the German car manufacturers love to make simple stuff more complex to show how 'clever' they are. Using a key blade (or what is a key to an old person like me) gets you into my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia (after removing the cover on the driver's door and putting the key blade in upside down and turn the lock the opposite way to instinct) but then you have to be quick to get the key blade into the ignition lock otherwise the alarm goes off. ETA: - and turn the ignition on as the alarm will sound until then, I've just checked. Your Fabia probably doesn't have the hidden lock cover and have a lock designed for a r/h/s door. Look at your Owner's Manual, if you don't have the paper printed copy you can download a free VWSkoda pdf copy from the following link, enter VIN or scroll down the page and select model and (part) year. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you have future threads and questions it can often be useful to have more details about your particular Mk2 to help with more specific answers and information. Cheers.

Look at it this way as you didn't pay the higher initial cost for the Jazz you have more money to spread over time with the Fabia. You can't really compare a 1.2DSi with a 1.4 petrol but given you'd try 20mph in 5th in the diesel I can't think you're taking too much advantage of the petrol engine and driving that much quicker without realising it but then hopefully you're not labouring the petrol engine too much either. I can't think of any answers that would be of use or acceptable, or perhaps you wouldn't dislike, hopefully your runs to Fife might help a little if only for a while. In the future many more diesels and petrol car owners will find perhaps similar issues to you but perhaps not to your extreme. Yesterday day I drove my wife's Fabia and noticed it was doing infinity miles per gallon, fuel gauge needle was on 1/1 yet the car had done 65 miles since filling the tank, today the needle is two-clicks lower, it was great whilst it lasted. 😊

Depending on the insurance provider and policy they might say "computer says No", four odd tyres fine, put on some well oversized 19" alloys with over wide rubber band tyres fine just pay a little extra. Luckily my wife and I are old so get lower premiums so don't have to accept restrictive insurance policies but I know some may have to or want to to pay a lower premium. Good luck let us know how you get on with wheels and insurance.

Sorry my mind must have been on another thread with 1.2 TSI or as often just dislodged. In that case, if it's yourself with the relative that's a mechanic did he go over it fully to check it, or I'd have thought I'd suggested once you were confident in the car to take it for a good blowout to check out the whole car's systems and components and loosen and blowout any built up muck, sometimes it takes more than one run if the runs are still not long or involved enough. People who are used to higher mpg driving often don't drive the car far enough or "hard" enough on blowout runs and this doesn't mean driving stupidly or too fast just getting the right roads at the right time where the revs can be held higher, steering wheel, clutch, brakes and suspension get some exercise. Good for not eating petrol on acceleration but possibly not so good for the brakes condition if the car is static standing exposed in the open the majority of its time, disc brakes being more exposed and car and brakes not getting any or much extended exercise. Yes and I think we're been through the idea of some more extended and blowout runs before for the whole car as well as the engine. Why did you get rid of the Jazz, and not buy another one to replace it?

Nothing wrong with steel wheels, I prefer them, and more suited to our third-world roads. If it was factory standard then there's nothing wrong with that size tyre, it only seems skinny because the fashion for decades has been to fit overwide, bigger wheels with wider lower profile tyres. The ride comfort of your tyre will be to do with the quality of design, materials and build of the tyre new and the age, wear, storage (parking), use/abuse and maintenance after. Tyres get hard with age and/or lack of use. Living in Northampton and having travelled around Northamptonshire for work and driven for pleasure on most of the fabulous country roads in the county for decades I know the state of them, since we had to subsidise wealthy bankers pensions and the more recent financial series of crises. A recent new Fabia owner with a Skoda Approved purchase had four different tyres on the car, that usually doesn't help with what the tyres do - braking, steering, suspension, road holding, ride comfort and noises. Check your four tyres for matching make and model of tyre, similar tread depths, ages (date of manufacture is on the tyre) assuming they correspond reasonably to when they where actually fitted to the car - for at least the two tyres on the same axle. Tyre pressures, especially if well out of spec and/or variance to each other can make a big difference. In the real rural bits of the county having "skinny" tyres could offer more advantages, even more so than in the towns. If you're replacing one tyre think about the tyre still on the other side of the axle, and perhaps the two on the other axle. Buying tyres in fours or twos is generally best and having the best set on the most suitable axle.

30mpg does sound a little disappointing and as you've probably noticed I'm not particularly a fan of the VW 1.2 TSI engine (was never keen on the old VW 4-cylinders, sounded badger's-arse rough to me) or VW products and a VW (or Skoda) engine or car isn't a Honda engine or car - but - you're not doing a fair comparison. At 275 miles per 4 months that'd be about 825 miles per year, so, 62.5k-miles would be nearly 76 years of Skoda current use. 😄 I'd not imagine your 62.5k-miles of Jazz use was at 14mph average and only over the cooler months. IIRC your car Fabia had a "full" service history when you got it did you check the work had actually done and what that work actually involved. The Skoda Servicing & Maintenance sheet I have has 6-years/60k-miles(!) for engine air filter change, 4-years/40k-miles spark plugs (cambelt 5-years/50k-miles) and of course 1-year/10k-miles "Oil & Inspection Service" - it's all not a lot for the engine so if any was missed and then lots of intermittent very short journeys use it might not be optimal for mpg, Skoda 1.2 TSI or even Honda Jazz (probably to a lesser extent(?). When I used Ultimate 97 (infrequently) it used to make the exhaust noisier on my car but that was before the introduction of E10 and with later use I didn't notice, perhaps the car and/or BP Ultimate had changed in the meantime. Plus how big and heavy are your driving boots. 🙃 Be interesting to see how the next tankful goes and if everything is ticket-boo with your car's serving history and work done and how well your car is running. I don't know how long my neighbour's car had been dragging its brakes but as it never really goes any where it'd be difficult to tell on the mpg (275m would be years of use now).

I will ask for your post to be moved to the Octavia Mk II section as it will be seen more there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ As well as reading the Owner's Manual you may find helpful information in this set of videos. -

Say's it all doesn't it 'Skoda Approved' 😄 should certainly have you checking what (little) a full Skoda service history might be, many owners think an annual, or less often, change of engine oil and filter is a full service when it's not even a full engine service let alone a full whole car service and a lot can happen to a car in 3-4 years. To me they'd be steel wheels that go over the brakes, correct offset/inset, (stupid) wheel bolt holes in the right place and amount. Alloy wheels are just a fashion thing, same as the oversized larger and wider wheels and skinnier and wider tyres than the car actually needs. You'd have to get a copy of the relevant 2019 brochure to see what wheel options where offered on the car and then find out if your wife's insurer is ambiguous about what they mean by manufacturer options - to specific trim level only(?) (S, SE, SEL). As an example only, with my wife's 'SE' the lowest rent wheel was a 15" alloy (with options up to 17", for those that like that sort of thing) but the 'S' started at 15" steel wheels with option of two 15" alloy wheels. As we're old we don't have to be confined to restrictive insurance policies but I realise some others have to, or chose to. Personally I'd prefer my wife's Fabia had 14" steel wheels.

My wife's 90hp hatch has 15" alloys and 185/60 R15 88H not running at the higher eco tyre pressure and I'd sooner have 14" (steel) wheels with more tyre sidewall rubber but most would consider 15" fine (if not "filling the wheel arch"). If you buy the correct 15" wheels and they fit I should think the shocks and springs would thank you and there'd be no more than standard fitting and checks for the tyres. One note most don't like - depends on your insurance (or provider) but changing wheels from factory fitted can be seen as a "modification" even if going to a more sensible size, others don't care but might want to know. Changing from four odd tyres to a matching set of four smaller new tyres (depending on quality) may well improve braking, steering, suspension, road holding, handling and ride comfort and noise. @Carlstonmay well soon be along with fuller details. Four odd tyres, you did check the/any previous servicing had actually been done on the car?

Yes and you can report car faults and if enough owners get the same fault or it's considered a safety issue the companies are forced to sort the issue. In the UK the car manufacturers and their lobbyist are far too close to Government and Parliamentarians (not quite as powerful and influential as the gambling and sugar concerns though).

Sorry I wasn't sure which and what info is open or very closed source. I suppose if the information is paid for by independants then it won't be too open source. I've got a link to a load of USA BL TSBs from the 1970s and it's surprisingly some still have relevance to cars surviving from that time (liss plastic engine parts then).

@varooom and others may be able to help with TSBs or whatever VW call them and perhaps access to erWin but I don't know. I can't stand blatant lies from employees, even worse when it's from the company owners, even if the management or owners of the business tell employees to lie to customers (customers: often something nasty they stepped in and need to scrape of the soles of their boots or shoes) they could tell you honestly that it's company policy to keep this information within the business.