Former

Below is what I imagine as bottom piece of ignition switch, obviously the Skoda one may vary from this one.

No sorry I don't (but doubt it), I don't know about relay either or wiring, or the car sorry I was just going on that you put "now" and that you had replaced the bottom piece of the ignition switch and following a general practice of checking the work done (or part replaced) as a starting point - but that assumes the problem wasn't there before you done the work as you put now. You really need a specific wiring diagram for you model and year or VIN for your car to see what is where. I only know the very old systems where the key turns a mechanism that moves to the switch 'plate' (my word/description) with the contacts and wires and there is resistance going from ignition on to starting which moves the 'plate' back off from starting when you release the pressure to it, sorry that will not be a very good or technical description but I think it is what you where thinking of(?). I am pretty sure others will be along who do know what they are talking about to help you now the thread has some momentum, you can wait for those or check your work and take photo as generally photos help with variations on different models and to see that things are as expected, 25 year old cars can have lots of variations to them from when they left the factory.

Sounds like something is wrong with the switch or its installation - best to check its installation and it. Take photos of the wiring to the switch, the switch as installed, the switch part in the switch/lock mechanism and the switch out of the car front and back and note any numbers on the switch and post back as someone will know if you have the correct switch installed correctly. Alternatively if it is a new modern made part it might (or might not) be faulty or poorly made.

Fair enough, another invasive Americanism. Where I am generally, as far as I know, unless your a fan of old American movies plays or musicals broad just means wider than usual.

Some of the readouts seem optimistic but some have proved to be as near as damn it. Of course you'll now have to amend your 😀

Probably rare or very rare but that might also sometimes depend on the circumstances. On a legal contract it pays not to make any assumptions. First search result I found was from this Adrian Flux (specialist car insurers). - https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/blog/2022/06/how-popular-modifications-affect-your-car-insurance.html I've had "classic car" and specialist sports cars insurance policies for various cars for 30+ years and car insurance since 1977 so have a little experience as a policyholder (others no doubt will have even longer and wider experience (and knowledge) than me).

Yes cars that don't get a lot of regular use can have things fail (hopefully temporarily) through lack of use, used to hear of it more with "classic" cars especially when they had MoTs or out of extended "winter" hibernations.

Can you remember what usually caused it, was it a use it or lose it thing or electronics/computer?

I've no idea what you look like but if you have had the car 20+ years I know you are not a teenager and must be very elderly if you think the word broads is still used for women or girls. 😃 (Used in America not UK by the way). Do bear in mind you are not the only one that reads the posts, I did not want Thefeliciahacker to think I was having a go at him about this, or anything else, or having a go at anyone else that likes bling, we all like a bit bling just some more than others. My point was for your application it would serve more as bling. If you introduce things to deal with the heat of hot summer city traffic then also bear in mind you do not want them to slow down the car warming up on your short winter journeys.

I don't know for sure as I never look at that section of the site but I guess you might be better posting this thread in the Fabia Projects where you might find more similar minded people to exchange ideas with. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ It won't alter any insurance situation you have and what you record on a public forum - for all you know I could be a serving Police Officer in Belfast, I'm not either - but if you or your car shouts "look at me" (or listen to the noise my car makes) and I'm not saying your car looks modified and I can't know if it sounds modified, but if it does (either) then you can't complain if people look and hear it including the Police and you be surprised if the Police think you might be worth a pull.. Very probably not, under usual circumstances, but it is possible (again I could be involved with car insure, again I'm not). Depends if you have to claim or it's involved in a serious accident or other incidence then these things could be easily noticed or found, especially if there are other shout-outs on the car suggesting a more thorough look, unless the VRS parts are standard to Monte Carlo too just that could be (is?) a modification. There's a good reason for that, simple statistics, young inexperienced (3 years) drivers have accidents and those that make their cars go faster tend to have more serious accidents. We were all 19 once and know how we thought and drove then (especially men), human nature doesn't change, 10 or perhaps less years from now you won't believe what you think (and post now). Hope all that makes sense, good luck to you.

Whether the aluminium expansion tank cools down (heats up) quicker will make no odds overall in hot city traffic on a hot summer's day, nice bling for those that like that sort of thing and as always each to there own if that' is what you want.

My wife tried another few tankfuls of Tesco (Momentum 99, up to 5%) E5 without me knowing and when I drove the car and said I thought it felt smoother she said so did she and that it was running on Tesco E5. Obviously for the sceptics it'd be placebo. I've no idea about mpg as when a car feels better I tend to drive it a little more spiritedly, but who knows with the VW engine and all its controlling computers as it makes so many different noises and vibrations every time it's used the improvement in the way it feels might just be the computer gods in a rare good mood.

As a total generalisation 14" are more towards practicality and 15" more towards fashion.

How well designed or not it is coping well according to what D.FYLAKTOS has put.

Surely you have answered your own thread title question, what you already have is working well. Numbers were removed from gauges and gauges made with a bias to a more fixed stable reading to help remove some of the worries over temperature readings. The car was designed to cope with a range of running temperatures not just one ideal temperature. If you are worried perhaps you can fit an override switch so that you can switch the fan on earlier when you feel it might be necessary but this will have limited application and effect and you introduce more parts and wiring to potentially go wrong which are not really needed, more drain and strain on alternator, engine and battery - less mpg. 😉

Did you use your VIN number to get the appropriate manual I just used 5/2008, but even then it seems fuse boxes and the illustrations for them vary in many sources including VWSkoda Owner's Manuals (or 'Operating Instructions as the one for my wife's car is titled. In my experience you can't fully rely on any databases including manufacturers but you just hope theirs are generally better.

That was not my experience in 14 years of using the silicone hoses I had and the car only held about 4 litres of coolant in the cooling and heating system and I checked the coolant level regularly and used a coolant renowned for finding any small weeps or leaks. The pressure cap (old metal type) was rated at 15 psi and car was not running at high coolant temperatures. As always with percentage figures you have to ask 1,000% or 1,500% percent of what as it could be life changing or barely, or not, perceptible, old or poorly made rubber hoses can be poupous (if poupous is not the correct technical word then replace it with the one that is as I am sure you know what I mean).

Fair enough but I wondered how many might see your post in this thread, if you don't get a reply(s) from here then perhaps put up a sperate thread on this section asking, or on the Fabia MK2 section, as someone might know the procedure that those nearer to you with VCDS can follow. Good luck.

Have a look for yourself with the following link.- Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Do you not have your paper printed copy of the 'Owner's Manual' that will give you this information and much more, if not you can get from VWSkoda a free pdf download copy of it from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Below is from the 2008/5 pdf copy from that link, as already put it's fuse 12. -

Reading and referring to the 'Owner's Manual' will give you a lot of information that even long term owners and some at garages have forgot or don't know (because they do not read the 'Owner's Manual'). You have to refer to it even for simple things that you've been doing for decades as the German car marques particularly like to add complexity everywhere.

Have you got the switch in the centre position? Have you got a starter button? From the 2022/6 'Owner's Manual' - "Operation Automatic activation The lighting is activated when one of the following events occurs: The vehicle is unlocked One of the doors is open The ignition key is removed (vehicle without starter button) Automatic deactivation The lighting is deactivated when one of the following events occurs: The vehicle is locked The ignition is switched on About 30 seconds after all the doors have been closed" Link to digital 'Owner's Manual'. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models When all else fails . . . 😉

If you are changing the 12V car battery because you have let it get in a too low state of charge and/or state of health then this can throw up all sorts of codes and warnings. If changing battery it'll need to be a battery in a good state of charge and health (obvious I know but in my experience I've been told a battery "is good" when it isn't, more than once) or if fitting a brand new battery then be (almost) exactly like for like or it'd be best to 'code' the new battery in. With a (properly) good battery fitted clear the error codes and see if they return. Is there a reason you couldn't recharge your existing battery with an appropriate battery charger (following the car's 'Owner's Manual' advice on charging rates). Let us know how you get on.

Fair enough, I did wonder, perhaps it is mislabelled I would have thought they were made by customer request.

They usually go off by themselves when battery is exactly like for like but perhaps if you let the previous battery practically die and or over a longer period you might have upset the computer gods. If you have a code reader or scan tool you could erase the error codes and that should do it, or you could perhaps try (not sure if it'll work just quick easy and inexpensive to try) starting the engine and leave on idle turning the power steering full lock both ways if the Superb 2 is electric power steering and/or put on other electric heavy loads for the computer to see the battery (and alternator) can cope and go for a drive so the computer gets the idea better. I think you'll get more response if I ask for your thread to be moved to the Superb 2 section.