Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The 2025 is 20mm diameter and 2.5mm deep (2032 is 20mm x 3.2mm). The figures you get for a 3v button battery (or 12v car battery) depends on the instrument you are using to measure them you can get a lot of varying figures and very cheap multimeters I've found not to be too good or last reliably beyond the 12 month warranty. My multimeter reads optimistically but I think yours might be even more so. Also battery doesn't work as well when its cold or very cold. The battery to my wife's remote was fine used at home but next day at her work when it was colder the battery wasn't and using the keyblade opens the driver's door but the alarm goes off, very annoying.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It is now but that's due to circumstances I'd not let that put you off considering again as it's own replacement if you wanted.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes I think it might be best for you and I'd suggest you perhaps also considered a new 4-amp smart charger for the new replacement battery. The AGMs do run at lower voltage more happily and will show lower figures on the VW start/stop cars in normally use. I was going to put you'd need to ask Yuasa if the 4-amp charging they recommend was for bench charging of retailers stock or for end retail customers during the battery's life. Your present battery might be able to be revived for other than use on your car - or about £8 recycle value at least. Also I've no idea what electric a GPS watch uses but any low use if constant adds up, it's like items on standby in the home or a small water leak in home they turn the meter very slightly but constantly so add to your bill at the end of the month, quarter or year. When you get the new battery check what charge is in it and consider topping it up before fitting if you want a fixed starting point. Good luck let us know how you get on, don't forget to 'code' the new battery and clear any error codes to start fresh at that point.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC earlier MX-5 models did have a working oil pressure gauge but I'm not sure about the coolant gauge, at the least it's like the coolant gauges in our car and biased to the needle at 90. Gauges that gave true real time readings would probably worry drivers now as they did in the past with first the numbers being left off the gauge then the general markings. Given the lack of accuracy and very low figures for some cars it was best some drivers didn't know as they'd just worry plus other examples of the same model year and engine may well show different figures so that would worry some. Our cars could do with a gauge for the (12v) battery but only those with EVs would perhaps fully follow what the reading told them at that particular time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That doesn't sound right to me, 15 mins stop-start driving not getting above 40mph I'd expect to see more than 72c on the oil temperature of my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI (90), different cars and driving of course but given the heater running cool and even the biased coolant needle not being at 90 the first thought would be that perhaps the thermostat isn't closing or fully closing. Never rely just on error codes and as you've found no errors codes doesn't mean there everything is running as it should.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great stuff. Did you notice what volts showed before you selected with the mode button? I'll just put you're not suppose to have it in the engine bay with bonnet closed before someone else does. With the extension cable a plastic bag might cause condensation a medium sized plastic box with holes in the sides for the cables might be better. The extension plug could have a 3-amp fuse in it and plugged into a suitably protected socket for outside use. If for some reason it doesn't get to 'FUL' in that 28 hours or whatever time then charge again ASAP to get the battery fully charged. Once you have got the battery fully charged dependant on how the battery has previously been affected and your car and battery use you shouldn't need to recharge the battery too regularly but better to recharge it a bit sooner than late say at 12.3v. I'm not a fan of Amazon and I've never found them to be the lowest price when I've looked but better to have the charger than not. Hopefully your battery will be on 'FUL' well before the 28 hours then you can fully use your car. The battery is designed to be used with the car discharging and charging it so you don't need to leave a charger on it after it's fully charged. All the best.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you lived nearer we could put on my neighbour's spare/second old diesel van battery, that I brought back to use and we've been charging and alternating use with the newer battery he bought to replace it since before Covid IIRC, on his barely used van. Then we could test your car's alternator function with his Ring tester, not reconnect the battery monitoring start/stop as your losing nothing, you code in for standard battery and I'd see what I can recover on your Yuasa YBX9096 given time. The Yuasa should be a good battery so if it's only a couple of years old it might be able to get more proper use out of it for a while, if not we'd discover with charging and testing. Yuasa's website downloadable for the YBX9096 shows "Recommended Charge Rate 4A", I'd forgotten this but it is only a recommended. - https://www.yuasa.co.uk/batteries/automotive/ybx9000-agm-batteries/ybx9096.html YBX9096_DATASHEET.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. How long was the charger on the car to get from the 12.3 start to 12.6 finish and what signified the finish and wahat was used to give the figures? On a side note do you have anything plugged into the 12v socket?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lesley, thanks for reply. Even if it does nothing with the throttle body it wont do any harm and might help with other unknown issues or what is causing the rough running if it's not the throttle body by the 'turn it off 'n' on agen' reset. These reboots can sometimes be handy in themselves, personally I'd boot the computers and their programs as far as I could, yours at 1995 is a lot less VW over complicated than my wife's 2015 Fabia you can be grateful for that. Do bear in mind error codes can report the messenger rather than the actual problem or that sensor might be only part of the problem, less so in 1995 than 2015 perhaps. I'm a big fan of cleaning the throttle body and things like, perhaps later, MAP and MAF as much servicing, maintenance and repairs boils down to simply cleaning and lubricating, even clearing error codes is a type of cleaning exercise. For the engine service hopefully as well as the oil & filter change the air filter was looked at or replaced and if the spark plugs weren't checked or replaced than would be the next place I'd look. If if they looked OK with a magnifying glass and were gapped correctly if they've not be changed in a few years I'd replace them. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @RIncewindwiz I might as well put it, as you've got a VCDS this is what I suggest, check your (Owner's Manual) "Operating Instructions" for what might need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car's battery (often it's not as listed if you've closed the electric windows and roof, just the time of day clock) and disconnect the battery from the car and fully recharge it with a 4-amp or lower appropriate charger and maintainer. Personally this time of year I'd remove the battery from the car and charge it in the spare room for higher and more consistent ambient temperature and more convenient to monitor progress. On reconnecting the battery you can 'recode' as if replaced and remove any error codes that might be in the systems. ETA: I'd then keep an eye on the battery and do preventative recharges, as required, with the battery connected to the car. As routine I'd check and charge at the time when winter tyres would be fitted and then again when they would be removed and a third time after very hot temperatures of the summer. This is the 4-amp charger and maintainer I bought last month, there are other makes and suppliers available, just an example, I got it for £23.49 off eBay, other suppliers and prices available of course. The one I have, Ring RSC 804 - 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804 There's also a 6A version - Ring RSC 806 - 6A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC806 RSC804_RSC806_RSC808_Instructions (1).pdf RSC804_Spec (1).pdf RSC806_Spec.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you sure the problem is with the throttle body? Did the mechanic disconnect the wires connector before cleaning or removed the throttle body from the car? I don't know the Felicia but IIRC 1995 wouldn't be OBD2 so the OBD(1) type software will be less available. Try this, check what, if anything, needs resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery in the Owner's Manual. Then disconnect the car battery, with it disconnected - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the ignition on and press and hold the brake pedal down so that if the battery was connected the rear brake lights would be on, turn on the headlights too, do this for about 20 seconds, switch off headlights and ignition switch and take your foot off the brake pedal. Whilst the battery is off you might want to take the opportunity to fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger. Then reconnect the battery. Then try driving as normal for a few days and see how that goes and let us know here.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Have a look at what information is in the car's Owner's Manual about the button and related locking. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models For the VCDS, I don't know the system at all but thought I'd seen that it keeps a log of amendments/adjustments/adaptations so you can go back to them(?) - but - there's a section on this site for VCDS so you might be better asking about that there for those that do know the VCDS. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I was told about the following site a few weeks ago, I've not looked at it too much as all the adverts annoy me but I did read on site or download (I forget) a couple of articles that seemed useful. - https://batteryuniversity.com/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks, I saw ones like that but a different model number. My only thought is it seems to sell in USA particularly at very low prices and being made in China, as are the more expensive chargers, I wonder about the lack of quality control from manufacturer which means tens, hundreds of thousands are probably good but some are not. Recently a set of 5 "classic" car and bike owners bought a £15 charger from Lidl one was faulty out of the box. Your charger might be fine but you could check it in use. As you probably know the variances in the different instruments doesn't matter as long as they remain consistent. You probably also know you should test the testing equipment before each test or set of test to confirm the testing equipment remains within tolerance and often this includes the tester (especially if it's me). Often just driving the car isn't enough to sufficient recharge the battery enough especially if the battery charge has been taken too low before the drive, potentially the drive could deplete the battery even more it depends on the outgoings and any income. Taking into account what varooom has put I say you should check the battery at the terminals after 12 or more hours after recharging or a couple of hours later but turn the headlights on for 30 seconds to drop the surface charge. Again the system you use is less important than being consistent with it, if the battery was off the car it'd be easier but after charging a reading at 12 and 24 hours later would let you know how much of the charge the battery has held. As you'll find there are a few factors involved with the figures so you do get different tables with slightly different figures but generally it's easy to see when things are good and when not. The thing is it depends when the 1.8A was (and how accurate that display reading is) but yes according to VW a 70Ah battery wants a 7A or lower charger but don't get too hung up with having 8A. My experience is that a lower slower longer recharge gets into the battery better and lasts longer and as far as I can see this is backed up with what I've read more recently. The thing is many people now don't have much stocks of time and patience so think higher, quicker, faster is better when often it isn't. For many years now I've been using a about 1.2A smart charger and maintainer for batteries in a low state of charge and well down on state of health and that with a large battery disconnected from the car could take up (sixty) 60 hours to fully recharge the battery. Usually it'd take less than two days but there's not so many people willing to allow that long to retrieve the battery. I've had two failures, I notice the latest version of the charger has that it can work on a 12v battery when it's as low as 3v many modern chargers used to give up at less than 6v.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As my neighbour's older Ring charger and battery tester has (+)5c for winter setting I take it as that, I suppose I should check with Ring to be sure. The winter mode is to allow for the cold as the battery like many other things isn't at its best when cold so there's a small increase in the charger's voltage to help overcome the effects of the cold. The battery likes when the ambient temperature is say 5c to 20c, when it's 30c the battery is (self) discharging itself at double the rate than at (twenty) 20c and at 40c (as we saw here last summer) the discharge is double the rate than at (thirty) 30c. If the battery itself is already warmer you do not want or need to increase the voltage to overcome the cold. No doubt the charger could be made a lot more complex with various and variable settings but more complex often means more problems, as you've found on the car already. You already have 6-amps over 4-amps you don't want to be rushing anymore in my opinion. You're better off charging the battery before it gets too low so this will take a shorter time than if it's at a lower state of charge whatever amperage of charger you use. Not letting the battery get too low in state of charge will also extend the life of the battery. Both of these mean there is less need for higher faster charges.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. On a quick search I can't find that model number on Google so can't comment on it other than 8 amps is higher and quicker for charging which isn't always better for charging and may or may not combine with other factors to this battery's charging. I would check the charger output perhaps and monitor it to check it's performing as it should - and check the battery charge showing on the battery terminals after the fully charged and the charger disconnected about 12 hours, about 15, 18 and 24 hours . The battery would need to be resting and car not used, the idea to see how well the charge is held after settling from being fully recharged. VWSkoda usually recommend 0.1 or less charging rate of the battery capacity if charger is connected to car. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes please do. Another poster ordered one but found the pictorial instructions difficult to follow, perhaps the unit was too easy or not automatic enough for what he was expecting (despite having the hyperlinks to look at). For 12v car, connect up to car (or battery), plug in to mains, press selector button once for 12v car and a second time for 12v car winter setting. The leaflet doesn't say but I take the winter setting as to be used for charging when the temperature is below (+/plus)5c. I could put something else but that might be auto-suggestion and it might not be relevant now, if you mention it I will refer to this and if you don't I'll mention it as a total generalisation. Have a look at the other terminal cover for part numbers and date and see if that varies too, you'd think they be available or fitted as pairs, but . . . I do too but I bet the Dealers say 5 years and the newer the car the more the battery has to do, jumps from 2015 to 2017 and again to 2022/3. I think we're back to the stage where some sort of battery gauge is required on cars. Let us know when you've fully recharged the battery how things went and are with the car. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Got interrupted - I also meant to put you can get batteries tested at various places, mainly because they want to sell you a new one of course but there are some honest people around. Are your charging figures just off one instrument have you confirmed them by using another instrument that you know to be reasonable accurate and reliable?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If the 'coding' wasn't done until after a year later from battery installation and the previous battery was an EFB then this might be something as the early life of the battery and it's discharging and charging will have a big influence on the battery's performance and life. It's very rare to hear of a (true) faulty new battery or even old battery as the fault(s) are elsewhere. Are there any know updates or recalls for the car? Next reason batteries fail is usually charging problems, often with the alternator but could also be with the charging system (including its program perhaps(?). Questions: . What type (make/model/ amperage/settings) of battery charger are you using? . Charged on or off the car? , what do you mean by the charger turned off (15 hours or less doesn't sound very long (depending on charger) for a very low battery?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The Skoda authorized service center should have advised you to fully recharge the battery and just driving the car will not do this and might even depleted the battery further. Yes it might get another year out of it but if you fully recharge it with an appropriate battery charger as soon as possible and then keep a check on the battery state of charge when required and when required fully recharge the battery it could last a lot longer than another year. The number cause of breakdown callouts in the UK - "Flat or faulty battery - Battery faults are the most common cause of breakdowns – especially in the winter." It is extremely rare for the battery to be faulty in itself more usually caused by user's use, abuse and neglect of the battery by the vehicle owner/user. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes Particularly as your battery had a long low slow drain of the battery that is how you should recharge it and not with a higher fast charge. Personally I would use a 4-amp, or lower, charger and maintainer but no more than a 6-amp or 7-amp charger and maintainer depending on your battery's Ah rating, see below from Owner's Manual. - I noted your Mk3 change, thanks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. All that is possible but 110km isn't much for testing, hopefully it was a number of issues combined to present so badly but they will not be repeated. Given the explanation by the Skoda authorized service center I hope they also checked and reported to you the battery for state of charge and health, if not get them to do so as even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery could still be too low for the computers and this could cause all sorts of unexpected issues with or without warning lights and messages (and error codes) which could cause you concern and perhaps issues. A small note, I know you have the year as 2017 but as there was a previous Fabia 3 (Mk2) can I suggest you consider to perhaps save confusion in future threads you use Fabia Mk 3 instead of Fabia 3.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think the coding might have got more obscure in more recent years but I don't know as I've only tried looking the dates up a very few times ever because the battery's history can be more important than it's age, it's like bank accounts some people can deplete down to nothing a lot quicker than others. Well done on 10 years, many seem to think 5 years or won't get passed 7 years and with some people and perhaps more recently made cars 5 years will be a good achievement.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There is a school of thought that if you do a like for like change, i.e. in your case the replacement battery is an EFB of 69Ah then the computer will 'learn' the improvement with use of the car. Or you could look at the 'coding' as not being needed instantly but later. Better to get the 'coding' done (by someone who can put in correct info) at battery change so the computer knows straight away - and if changing battery type and or Ah then 'coding' will be required as the computer won't know of the change of type or Ah. This VW 'coding' stuff was all new to me and introduced me more into the 'joys' of VW computer programing (which seems to allow an entry of 7Ah instead of 70Ah, lacks proper programing there, the writers must have worked for banks previously). Hopefully it shouldn't take two days but it's no problem anyway with the smart charger and maintainers as when the battery is full (or 'FUL' on the Ring 8s) they switch to maintenance mode which can be left on the car for a long time. I'd guess that is the date when that part (terminal cover) was made it would relate to the original battery but not necessarily be the same date as the battery was manufacturer and it could be transferred to a later battery replacement. The whole car is just a collection of parts possibly made on different dates and then there can be lots of transport with parts and components during manufacture and assembly of the parts let alone the car. On the batteries (it used to be at least) that on it or it's labelling there'd be some code to the date of manufacturer, the coding systems would vary but often they can be decoded from internet info. I'd not worry about it with your battery because the age is a lot less relevant than how a battery performs and is used, abused or neglected.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd only add the use of a barely damp synthetic (life's too short for the leather) chamois kept in a closable plastic (food) bag and angling the sunvisors to keep more of the blown air going to windscreen can help to speed up the windscreen clearing. For the reusable microwave bags we use a pair of Pingi bags ay the windscreen. - https://pingi.com/shop/marine/pingi-car-dehumidifier-lv-a350-double-pack-2/ All these things help but you can't beat nature and physics, modern cars have so much glass area, it just takes a bit of time and won't be instant. Same with wiping or scrapping all the water or ice of all the glass areas (or all the snow off the car) it just takes time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. varooom I'm fully with you about getting much more out of the existing battery (if possible and depending on circumstances) I've now highlighted in bold about where I'd put what I'd do - but I have hard (luck) standing and external mains socket at home. I'm not as sure about going AGM now as I previously was, depends on engine bay heat and the insulation protection to the battery and the use of the vehicle (and if you'd bother with coding for like-for-like change). I think I'd now see how long the existing EFB battery lasts with the use the car is given and the use, abuse and neglect the battery gets and decide from there whether to stick with EFB or go AGM. Battery prices and availability can vary from time to time so that may be another factor. Taking your point though here's a list of Tayna's 096 AGM for @WillRB and others. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-agm/