Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The oil service is just an oil and filter change, or possibly partial oil change the way some garages do it, and often "free health check" I'm not sure how much road testing is done, more of an engine oil & filter. Have you had the car from new, do you know if the spark plugs and air filter have been changed - if not I'd certainly look at changing the air filter as soon as possible (tomorrow) and have a look at the state of the inside of the filter box and tubing. If not already done changing the spark plugs could help and would be overdue. The car reset will be on the engine oil change so you can do other work to help the situation. The car can be misfiring without putting up any warnings, it will though show on a scan tool that's not just a code reader. So if anyone is in your area that can give you a health report or better still also live data to read from to help pin down what to look at or for. I'd have thought the garage would have said about getting any due or overdue servicing work done like replacing air filter and spark plugs so perhaps it is more than this but this is where you'd start, with the basics. You put there was no hissing noises did you also try spraying around. Again a good scan tool would give you live data and historic data to diagnosis from but sometimes an intermittent problem can only be recorded when it happens or when the conditions are replicated, obviously you can't drive around for 500 to 1,000 miles waiting to see something happen on the scanner. As you've found the engine can still chug along not in the best of health or with interference from the sensors, their wiring connections or communications or the computers and their programs. More important are the brakes, the brake fluid would have been scheduled for two changes by now if on the 'Skoda Servicing and Maintenance'. Do remember a full service isn't just work on the engine, brakes, steering and suspension are more important (all three include tyres), then on to safety electrics and glass, lights, wipers, horns, blower, windows and mirrors, then engine and transmission and other stuff. I hope your issue isn't anything too difficult or serious, my wife car is up to a year older and 12k-miles more to go on yours. Have you had any issues with your front dampers (shocks)?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you check the Operating Manual for that or ask the lending garage, I can only lead you to the water I can't force you to take drink, I don't know so only making suggestions. 🙂 Perhaps someone will be along that knows later. Alright, have you got tinting on your rear windows thick enough to hide a celebrity clay pigeon shooter from unwanted public or paparazzi gaze - I was joking and only thinking of radio reception really. 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes I follow, what I meant is what's the point of showing the bar at above halfway when maximum 'volume' is at halfway unless it is to show that the 'volume' has been limited to halfway. Perhaps this is a software error or amendment, you might be better asking on the threads in this section about the infotainment software or asking in the other sections on this site you think appropriate. Have you checked the Operating Manual, asked the selling garage as a 2021 car is probably still under warranty or some goodwill of giving info, have you got drug dealer type tinting on your rear windows, sorry but that's me out of ideas.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Is it just that code or with others, see link (from my previous post), that one code in itself doesn't tell you a lot, have a read to the end of that article and see if that brings up more info. - https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p2096-volkswagen-golf/ As above has full servicing been done, on the engine at least, air filter. plugs, what's your mileage and usual journeys, any noises, smells, vibrations, bit more info, what tool exactly are you using to reset the error code light. Have you checked for leaks or pipes, hoses, connectors, loose, wires and connects loose or dirt/contaminated - it's all a very wide field.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Don't worry - it gets worse when you're older as you can't remember what you learnt or relearnt, just how little you know or thought you knew previously, that's if you can remember what you thought you knew previous and what you do and don't know now. 🙃 At least you kept hold of the multimeter, I now spend more time looking for the screwdriver or fixing I only put down minutes or seconds ago, it's one constant head cold. 😄 The hot and extremely hot weather we had this summer (seems so long ago with today's weather) wasn't necessarily kind on batteries and charging systems so if you can full charge the battery now it help perhaps and although I'm not for replacing car batteries unnecessarily and too soon I changed the car battery on my wife's Fabia Mk3 for my wife's peace of mind and mine, well worth the extra expense. As it gets colder and darker more drivers will find issues related to the car battery, I think this autumn/winter will be a bumper time for car battery sales, I'd beat the rush and avoid a 'distress purchase'. Some examples: - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Shows the power of a couple of clear photos. I once tried sorting a windscreen wiper motor, drive mechanism and park position when I had a cold and couldn't work it out and had the bonnet being wiped before I could stop it (yes that is possibly, it wasn't a Fabia). But there again I've had an electrical tester set up wrong when I was perfectly well and didn't realise until I got too many fails. I always test rather than taking someone's word for it after being told a mains socket was live and it wasn't (only dead socket in the room) and check the testing equipment after spending an hour looking for a leak that was on the test equipment I'd been lent. No real knowledge but some experiences.

To be fair to CityGoGoGO the last file (or wotever it's called) is a still photo/image (wotever it's called). See if this works (yes it did). - IMG_5448 (5).HEIC Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @CityGoGoGO it didn't matter in this instance but just in general for photos and videoes for this sort of thing, you get more information into both by holding your phone to landscape (horizontally) rather than portrait (vertical).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. What you want - Handbrake for automatic transmission. From the (05.2017) Owner's Manual - (ETA: if for some reason you haven't got the printed paper copy of the Owner's Manual you can get a PDF copy from the following link. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models )

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you've got the Driver's Handbook it usually tells you in there too, check any info or drawing match your vehicle. Even if the battery is old you still might be able to revive it by recharging it, a long low slow recharge nearer to the discharge might be better than a high, fast quick recharge much further away. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That sounds odd to me, why bother having the bar go above the maximum setting. Again what does the Owner's Manual tell you, or ask at the Dealership or where you got the car from, or ask on a different thread or part of this site that specialises in such stuff, there are those on here that will know but sorry it's not me. What I can tell from being a previous home hi-fi nut is that playing your music too loud for too often might give you tinnitus. Which can be very annoying at the least, that I do know. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Apologies Joob, I didn't mean to mislead you, I spent too much time looking for that link again that you already had and were editing into your post as I was linking it into mine. 😄 I was just off to bed when I saw you posted again and could not remember how to link to the post instead of the thread. and kept linking to the thread. I should have went to bed earlier. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes sorry I didn't mean to suggest that, my aside was to Ken about older cars and back to dynamo Yeah sorry, my mind was slipping back to an earlier time, blown was a bad choice of word (perhaps bad would have been better) I was just try to suggest checking what might be causing the bulb not to light to eliminate it and also that it's best to have the warning light working as a warning. I was very tired and trying to find the link I'd found before.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: you posted with the info whilst I was finding and checking the link worked again. 😄 Well that alone would be blown [ blown, wrong word to use ] bulb, bad connection(s) or wiring. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/318765-97-skoda-felicia-battery-light-issue/?tab=comments#comment-3940352 If nothing else you want the warning light working or you have no warning light, to, er, work from or off.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you still get such a thing as Operating Instructions booklet (PDF?) or is it all videos, have look and see if there some setting to reduce or limit volume. Or some sort of volume compensator for road/background noise/speed(?) I'm sure such stuff has been on other marques going back a few years, or it might be another of my false memories or visits to Fantasy Island. What name is your Infotainment, I've seen on here others, not with 2021 Fabia though, put the 'radio' seem poorer quality, perhaps to do with Covid and/or the chip shortages (which'll be nothing if China blocks Taiwan as it makes loads of chips).

@KenONeill I'm only used to the old alternator where if the 'IGN' bulb was blown the alternator wouldn't charge, my car was only months young enough not to have a dynamo.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you try the "disconnect D+ cable at alternator that goes to dashboard (green wire usually) and connect it to earth" test and see if the battery warning light was on?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You might also want to check that the battery light bulb actually works. See item 2 in following post. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/318765-97-skoda-felicia-battery-light-issue/?tab=comments#comment-3940352

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The new regulator appears to have a different number on it, UR-MP134 (instead of UR-MP135) I have no idea if that makes any difference whatsoever though. I have found many modern made electric parts to be crap straight of the box so do you know that this part is actually working as it should - the dent in the casing does not inspire confidence (unless you put that there). Very old original NOS (new old stock) electrical parts may often be of good manufacture but more recent (going back 20 years in the case of Lucas) parts can be poorly made even if NOS.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I don't know as I've never had or fitted roof bars on any car but I've got a feeling slots or nuts/fixings were an extra or needed specifying - but I could well be wrong as I was going on the factory/order(?) spec for my wife's car that she bought second hand / used (but doubtful it was "pre-loved" as it was some sort of Dealership original purchase).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. IF your battery is tired you could try charging it up fully, use time and patience rather than higher power and speed for the recharging.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've not seen the exact percentage pinned down for the Mk3 but again I'm with [ you ] on this. I find many don't know the importance and I'm just trying to help them finding out in often a very inconvenient way. As autumn progresses and then into winter there'll be many premature battery deaths and battery replacement sales, particularly this year - perhaps I should just shut up and get shares in car battery sales. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As you might know already I've been told by another forum poster that the alternator would take care of this and there no need for recharging the battery - personally by decades of experience I believe the same as you and more so with modern cars particularly German marque and/or start/stop.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife's 2015 Mk3 start/stop was EFB, a Moll (no longer available IIRC) car manufacturers work to decimal places with costings and AGM were possibly even more expensive nearly 8 (and 7) years ago. Well done on getting nearly 8 years out of the EFB (IIRC someone told me 7 years would be lucky, and IIRC with an AGM) but bear in mind whilst your battery is new your car and charging system are nearly 8 years old with use so possibly you might get less than nearly 8 years with the replacement battery (depending on other factors too). The very hot and extreme hot weather we had will have done for a lot of car batteries and those that survived may not later this autumn and into winter.

I'd always start with the cheap and easy and as much car servicing, maintenance and repairs just boils down to clean and lubricate (even the electronic stuff is sometimes just clean the error codes off). As Ken has put start with a small soft brush and vacuum, I think I've seen on here that the cover comes off(?) so that will get more dust and debris out of you can remove the cover. After that I'd try a hair dryer with cold blow setting as the blow can be more powerful and effective than the vacuum often but do bear in mind the blowing will just move the dust and debris so try to be very focussed with the direction and rebound effect, better distributed very thinly to the cabin than concentrated where you don't want it messing with the temperature control. Tomorrow, why not to use vinegar and newspaper. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It might be a coincidence or you might be wrong about this but I'm with varooom that it seems like it might be a faulty wire or connection somewhere but of course never rule out a computer issue so it needs investigating as you know if you might have caused it by accident. I think if the sales people had been selling white goods, computers or sound systems before it might be an advantage in this case as you practically need an Honours degree in electronics to set a washing machine or open a fridge door with modern home appliances because of the very clever but often unnecessary complications on them so anyone with experience of them might stand a chance with the very clever and often unnecessary complicated VW systems. Be interesting to hear the result, this issue with your car might be a first, or another "first". Good luck.