Former

It's a 71 plate - you kept that quiet - by this time you no longer have a paper printed manual that doesn't need batteries or an internet connection and can be read in sunlight, the fabulous online, wot could possibly go wrong, gawd helps when the car's computers are full online! 🙄 I've seen this before, on here, you need a stick, I've got no idea where you get the logos perhaps you assign some of your own photos. From the online Swing manual. - Assign station logo from an external source Applies to AM, FM and DAB frequency ranges. Infotainment offers the option to assign logos from the pictures on an external source to the station buttons. For station logos, images in jpg, png format with a maximum resolution of 400x240 pixels can be used. In the menu Radio (symbol, symbol) Station logos . Tap the desired preset button. Select the external source with the logo. Find the desired logo and confirm. Best of luck.

For Swing - in the main Radio menu, tap the function surface button (cogs, as in bottom right corner button in John's photo), next screen 'Station Logos'. Whether that enables logos on DAB I don't know.

If you have new and clean air filter, spark plugs (fuel filter), clean throttle body (MAF?) - I know you have a scan tool and no error codes but have you ever tried this as a reset, free, quick and easy to try, nothing to loose (check your Driver's Handbook before doing disconnect about radio codes or synchronising after). -

How well do you service (including cleaning of engine parts) the car? What does your air filter look like, when was it last changed, same for the spark plugs, (fuel filter), have you ever cleaned the throttle body (no MAF?)?

You can edit as much as you like and avoid all the advert by joining Freedom. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

No problem, it was just an idea I'd seen a good while back and thought was good and found videos of VW (and BMW) mechanics saying it works. Many of the scan tools do not go deep enough to clear some of the error codes. Error codes give you the starting point of where to look and not often the simple solution many think. Then computer programs make errors so you can not always trust what they tell you but you must investigate. I often say about cleaning the throttle body as that allows it to get nearer factory settings and effects other settings and the way the car runs, probably most noticeable when first pulling away and when in stop, start crawling traffic, it will effect your fuel consumption a bit. Good to hear of the improvement. Sometimes clearing some codes can also help with the efficient running of the car, not sure in your case but it was an odd code anyway best to see the back of it. The engine wants air and fuel and to be clean inside, so that starts with a clean air filter, fuel filter and perhaps better quality fuel, then inside clean and effective engine oil with timely changes of oil and filter, then there are the sensors that need to be in good working condition to tell the computer how to run the engine and what comes out of the engine through the exhaust. But of course the engine is one of the least import parts of the car, the brakes, steering, suspension (all three involve tyres), lights and visibility and safety electrics are more important. Many of these other components and parts can have an influence on fuel consumption, including the driver of course and what's on and left in the vehicle but that's another wide subject for another place and time. Good luck, let us know if the code returns or any new appear.

@Matbloke yes do it, otherwise it's still SISO (as in computer GIGO, garbage in, garbage out). Sorry I've no idea what's best to use but I would be interested to know your results if you want to report back. If you can, get the lady to use a 'clean' diesel like V-Power as it can make a difference after all your cleaning and proper servicing. Keeping the fuel tank above about a quarter will help with regen when someone takes it for an Italian tune up. Might be telling Grandama how to suck eggs but even though it's about DPF the following sum's up the dirty diesel situation (add on air filter changes).

This is from my wife's2015 Mk3 Driver's Handbook. -

@Harnser you might already know this, or you're 'radio' is different to the one in my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 but I had a play around and this is what I found. On DAB radio screen touch/press the button for 'Setup', next screen check the box to get a tick against 'Radio text', then touch/press 'Advanced settings', next screen check the box to get a tick against 'Auto-save station logos', press return arrow, next screen press return arrow. On Dab radio screen touch/press 'View' button, next screen then either select 'Station Info' for radio text and image, or select 'Radio text' for text only. I hope that might help, yours might be different menus steps but basically you need to tell it to display what you want to see, once you have set it up.

To prevent all sorts of problems you want to make sure your car battery never gets to a low state of charge as even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the charge could be too low for the over-complicated and very invasive computer programs and they will make you suffer for your mistake. For remote keyfobs, apart from using them near the vehicle and not all the way across a car park I always suggest alternating, in whatever way you want, the use of both fobs and key blades as this will give more even wear to fobs, batteries, key blades and key cylinders plus you always know where the "spare" key fob is and that it works. When changing the battery on the remote fob you could also take the opportunity to clean it inside and out for better connections. I think you'd be best to put up a separate thread about the DAB with more info about which 'radio' system you have and/or have a look at the operating instruction book. I've seen her where others complain about the quality of the newer 'radios', the quality may have dropped for many reasons over the last couple of years at least.

I don't think the system is very sensitive at all about tyre pressure. For reset I think it might be that you might need to drive the car, or drive further, after pushing the button to reset for it to get the message, switching the ignition off after reset might confuse it. If the light is on it's free and easy to try pushing reset this at the start of a journey plus you don't get your hands dirty or cold if the cabin is warm. Or IF the system is run off the ABS sensors it might be an intermittent fault with one of those and IF the sensor or cog it gets its message from are exposed it might just be muck or rust on or between them, this means checking in the cold and probably dirty hands. Another way to avoid the cold and dirty hands is to ensure the car battery is not at low charge so that any computer can start to play up, even if the car starts and lights seem to be bright enough. I also favour the car battery reset as again it's quick, free and easy to do and if it doesn't work you've lost nothing (see vid below) - first check your Owner's Manual for anything that might need resetting or resynchronising, the tyre warning light will come on for a while after reconnecting the battery so don't worry about that. The only other thing I've seen is that stupid fuse links on top of the battery can fatigue crack from car use vibrations so you could have a look at that for cracks, or crud at connections. Good luck.

As per the thread title a simple review and test drive video of a 2017 Fabia Mk3. I have no connection or anything to gain, I just find the reviewer and his videos to be simple and generally useful for those that want or need the information (or entertainment).

All cars have problems some makes and models a lot more than others, some owners are blind to it for various reasons, often resale values for the likes of BMW, Merc and some Italian stuff owners. I think you have a fair point that I'm probably biased by what I see - but also my wife's car has needed two front dampers which surprised me and talk of wheel bearings has me thinking I might be hearing things when I'm probably not. Replacing the front brakes already was a bit disappointing but that might be more from previous use of the car before my wife bought it. But the engine bay does make all sorts of strange noises which I think are the computers taking over and messing around. I think I balance out some of the blind loyalty to marques and models, I can like a make and model but still recognise its faults, I've mostly had British, well English, cars so I think I've literally paid (over and over and . . . ) to express my views on at least them and it sets the bar quite low for other makes and marques. 😁

Yaris was in my thoughts, I thought the Starlet finished decades back - but then I not sure how I posted here as the thread was 2 months old! My wife once had a Corsa as a courtesy car and she'll tell anyone that listens how gutless it was, struggled with the hills, luckily she only had it one day and they never made the mistake of offering it again. A mate had a 1.2 Corsa for a while and said the 2.0 diesel Jag X-type that replaced it got more mpg around town. The OP would be old enough to remember the cars with 250cc engines or less, once you're rolling you don't need much horsepower to propel two or even four people along in a car, just that modern cars are so heavy they need the power to pull their own weight before the load in the car. There's no point trying to put just electric engines in the lardy cars we have now - whoop thread drift alert!! 🥴

That sounds a little underweight but it depends on your use, it might not last as long as your previous battery. Is that actually a stud off the battery or the post clamp, I thought it was just a fixing point for more earth wire connections - but I'm often wrong about things.

Just widening the scope, the car doesn't have to be the same type and starting budgets aren't always end budgets. Not everyone is lucky enough to get a well looked after example and generally the Toyotas and Hondas stand up better but that's a generalisation and other models may have some shining examples to buy, but possibly statistically less likely. The purchase price is just one element of the overall running costs but there's also the hassle of service, maintenance and repairs. I'd keep the Felicia going longer, 100,000 is nothing and if only 3,000 miles a year are to be added, although if the lower mileage is city driving it will be more wearing and the tin worm on the body may beat any mechanicals.

Why change now, if your 1998 Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPI is still going well why replace it when second hand prices are still silly high because of Covid new car supply problems. The newer the car the less it will like your low annual mileage, you'd certainly want to stay away from new diesels and any model with start/stop. At 15 years of age for a s/h car I'd only look at Toyotas and Hondas, all cars need some servicing but those two generally need a lot less repairs (if any), getting them without electric windows might be more difficult. The Skoda Dealers are much more like VW car dealers now than they used to decades back. Good luck.

The rev counter needle twitching used to be an indication of a fault with the ignition circuit, showing up low tension faults. From ignition switch forward checking, relay, wires and connections, perhaps wiggle tests, all wires and connections need to be clean, secure and protected. Earths are a good thing to check but you might need to disconnect to check that they are clean, secure and protected. Lucas is just a brand name now split over various companies and the products are not all the best, often not high quality. - "In 2003 the decision was made by TRW to license the Lucas brand to specialist licensees who could continue the development and investment of the Lucas programs."

moshe5342, Green Spark Plug seem a good company and unlikely to source from unreliable suppliers (but anyone can be caught out by counterfeit supplies, even the car dealerships, unless it was deliberate). It would be interesting to me if you were able to report back if the NGK coil or its box shows what country it was made in, just out of interest, thank you.

Yes I did wonder, the genuine was actually for Japan rather than counterfeit, I know Bosch is often just a label but there are so many changes and take overs in manufacturing and sub-contracts to sub-contracting that until the item turns up you don't know where it's made and then who knows what "Made in ..." actually means, they might even be just referring to the box. 😄 You certainly can not go on old brand names as the name might be used/owned by two or more companies, like Lucas. I was about to put if I peeled off a Bosch label to find Delphi I'd be happier.

I had a feeling my previous Michelins Energy EB1 were made in Poland, your post suggests my memory might not have been wrong. It made me think of Barum, a Continental brand and I've Continental tyres on now, Barum at least IIRC were made in Poland. I've always thought that but can't remember see it it written down by a manufacturer (but I got the idea from somewhere).

Tayna and other sites will tell you to check that the battery fits, Tayna - "CHECK AGAINST YOUR CURRENT BATTERY" - "Possible Marked Code(s)" - overall sizes - " tick I've checked - This Matches My Battery". All databases have errors, including Tayna - and Halfords, my neighbour bought a Halfords battery which had a different code for his car the wrong type of hold down which he wouldn't let me do 30 seconds modification on (cut off the extra layer of plastic bar) so I had to do 15 minutes of modifying the meatal clamping bar and finding appropriate fixings (setscrew, washers). Those 'magic eyes' aren't really up to much they can show green even when the battery is low and they only? (or used to?) relate to one cell out of the six. It's the German's that have got you confused by having the battery arse-about-face, Tayna show 027 as the battery code for 1.2 Roomster, see here but I can't confirm the fuse pack fitting to any. I've had their Enduroline fitted to my car for a number of years now and it's been fine. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027/

Karl, cracking video. I like the varied wheeled transport and the mystery fourth camera person too. What did the text say as I could not think of a way to get a translation.

Out of personal choice I would always go (genuine) Japanese over German especially if I was keeping the car for a while.

Buying a "cheap" part can often turn out to be more expensive than buying a more expensive but good quality.