Former

ETA: I was just looking at a similar old thread in this section and you might have a get out from your wife, if you transported the piece of furniture on a hot day, see the later posts in this thread. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/465910-drivers-seat-belt-wont-pull-out-fully/#findComment-5424664

Sorry I might have misunderstood what you mean but it could be the mechanism is blocked with debris or possibly the fabriuc of the belt damaged, you might be able to sort any debris blockage what is the point if the seatbelt has been replaced (?). The seatbelts are tested in a similar fashion here for the annual (after first three years of the car's life) MoT test, quite rightly too. Some forget, or don't know, the airbags are supplementary to the seatbelts hence they were known as SRS, Supplemental Restraint System, seatbelts before airbags, never just rely on airbags.

I don't think the engines were that bad that they needed an oil cooler for normal road use and I don't think anyone meant constant high revs but if you want to get up a mountain pass you don't be lugging the engine either. In the 1980s/90s for normal road use cars oil coolers were for exotics or those that might be pretending the cars needed them. Caravan and boats were towed by cars without oil coolers, probably not these Škoda. Much, much smaller engined cars were also going over mountain passes many decades before and engine oils got better in the 1960s/70s and again 90s/2000 and better still towards 2020s. I didn't always drive my 120LS, 130LS Estelles and 130 Rapid economically, though I'd not drive like in that video, the drive is about maintaining momentum, braking and slowing less, maintain the correct speed to manoeuvre safely at pace, none of my cars ever overheated the oils of the mid-80s to early 90s and these weren't special oils just those that the Škoda Dealerships of the time used. That was a UK perspective anyway.

1991 Škoda 135 Rapid instruments, note green and red sections 4,100 well before start of red section being graduated in, would the 2000 Felicia engine be much more fragile than this one.

They're the type rum4mo can afford. 🙂 The 'US Pro Hose Clamp Removal Pliers Swivel Head (Straight) 3358' that I bought are OK but the rachet spring looks a little thin and unconvincing but as I put for occasional DIY I'm sure they'll be fine , perhaps even for more regular use allowing for buying price. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132179413728 This is the 'US PRO Tools Long Reach Hose Clamp Pliers, Pistol Grip Plier 3506' I bought that hasn't proved that useful so far for me. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133753538648

I've got one of those too, I bought that first to do the drain down and I could get it in the two clips I wanted as they were too close to each other so I was back to try out other pliers I have. That one also doesn't work well on the air filter box hoses as it coils up and difficult to place hence my suggestion for the two set, with my caution that they might not be suitable for all clops, then angled ones and it goes on and on - just for a simple thing like removing a clip. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132179403589

Yeap, that's another PITA aspect of those annoying type of clips, you move them along the plastic tubing on the annoying over-complicated VWŠkoda air filter box and they crush the plastic tubing where you've moved them to to get them out of the way - "Simply not Clever". Next you'll get me started on those bloody silly wheel bolts, instead of studs, German engineering quality, my arse, as Jim Royale used to say. Not everyone even has a garage let alone the space, or want, for all these additional (unnecessary) tools VW insist on, Jubilee type clips work fine even on the wunderbar fantastic plastic fittings the German marques have used all this century and beyond.

Took me a few looks to work out that was a white presentation box, so what is in the box that is the future now?

Best to use some sort of pressure device and (or?) a scan tool with the filling program, you can fill without - using patience and observation, if you keep such things in stock, some don't, and you're not of too nervous disposition (or with lack of luv for a VW product like me). I done it on my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI but bear in mind I don't luv the car (it being a VW product). If you're only topping up the lost (VW dictated coolant) then probably easier than the coolant change I done. The constant tension spring hose clips are a right PITA for any work in the engine bay so I suggest getting a set of the suitable pliers to save too much swearing and blood pressure, whichever ones you get either won't be right for this job of the next such is German engineering design. The following US Pro double set seem Ok for occasional DIY use (for easy to get at clips), other sellers and more expensive brands are available. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132179403589 I was told setting the heat to max was a waste of time on my wife's 1.2 TSI because of the way the coolant/heating is plumbed and controlled but it's another precaution if you're going the rough old school way. Your car's not 10 years old and the water pump needs replacing, ah, 21st-century German engineering quality. Good luck, report back and perhaps consider doing a guide for others, want to do and not, what works and not.

6.66 litres per 100 km is 42.8 miles per UK gallon, very good.

Sorry but nothing sounds or looks good about the state of discs and possibly pads or the (unseen) tyre on the front binding wheel and it looks like both might nave been going on too long already so you want to get these sorted ASAP. By coincidence I was driving my wife's 2015 Fabia today (I don't drive it often) and the handbrake lever when fully down does feel a bit flimsy but when raised is firm enough and works well enough, better than my wife's Vauxhall when it was brand new. The rear brakes do need the cylinders winding back. Good luck.

If you want a 0w-20 then there's also Millers EE Performance C5 V 0w20 Engine Oil (VW 508 00 / 509 00). "RECOMMENDED FOR: ACEA C5, Porsche C20, VW 508 00 / 509 00, Volkswagen Audi Group including Bentley, Cupra, Seat and Skoda, Asian manufacturers" I didn't see a letter from the VW doctors but I expect their approval costs far too much to put on every product (wonder if they were around when VW was fitting its diesel cheating software). Product technical data sheet -https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/millersoils/8596-EE-Performance-C5-V-0w20-TDS.pdf

@ose my concern, other than braking issues of course as they're always number one priority on any vehicle, is the front, nearside (nearest the kerb) wheel slight binding is this because of the brake at that point or is the cause something else. If new pads and discs are fitted and the slight binding continues this will cause more rapid additional wear so it needs to be established what is causing the slight binding, You haven't labelled the photos of the discs wear but three of the photos show rust over half of the pad sweep area which isn't the way it should be. The very clear disc maybe on the wheel that's binding or just showing the work the brake at that wheel has had to do. Also bear in mind the tyres are a very important and significant component in the car's braking system. If I assume (often not as good idea) that your handbrake is the "traditional" manual lever type then I also wonder why it needs adjustment but I've never seen your car and the garage has (and would know more than me anyway). The brakes (unless yours are different) were very simple to do on my wife's 2015 Mk3, and I'm not that mechanical, the simplest of the few sets I have ever done on a few various cars, I did some notes if you want to see them to get an idea. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499752-front-brake-pads-and-discs-fitting-tips https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517740-changing-rear-brake-discs-and-pads-notes-and-tips The current front dampers ("shock absorbers") on my wife's car were a distress purchase, when the car was 6 years old, because factory ones failed that MoT failure, bought from and fitted by the VWŠkoda Dealership, the replacements were "misting" 11 months later and are still misting and MoT advisories, now out of their 2-year warranty. Finding a good and decent garage or mechanic (or auto-electrician) is very, verry difficult, unfortunately, and if you can then they often have more than enough work for themselves, the one we eventually found the staff don't work weekends at all and have lunch breaks, both are very good signs to me for such a business.

27 years is a very long time for steel to stay free of rust in the UK, well done on getting so far.

IIRC (which is doubtful) the Mk2 Fabia's the rear seat bases fold/remove but the Mk3 don't as you've found. The Mk3s aren't as well build as the Mk2s from what I've seen and 2017 on get more and more complicated - or full of "features". For things like how the rear seats fold you can usually find that information in the car's Owner's Manual, most, including for VWŠkoda are freely available to view or download as a free pdf. For VWŠkoda Owner Manuals. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Lots of more modern cars are like that, big wide and heavy (particularly VW products) with oversized wheels and tyres, boot access also restricted but tailgate styling and size. Good luck in your search.

I totally understand, there can be a point sooner or later where it's not worth perusing in which case you write it off to experience and learn from it, but don't brood on it. Good luck.

I use Millers EE Performance in my wife's 2015 Mk3 engine (and gearbox) and used their products in my car, British blender too but I buy on quality and performance. Whether you're doing a tickbox bare minimum VWŠkoda "service" and/or "maintenance schedule" type of work or better the engine is one of the less considerations in importance of using the car behind brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc.), reflective number plates -all see and be seen. Good luck.

You need to complain, and get your £500 back. You were in the building not the website unless this condition is clearly visible in displays there you need to be told about it, a good salesperson would have explained this before you signed - but you rarely find a good sales person in the motor trade, they might sell a lot but that doesn't make them good. Don't let them rip you off £500, complain to the Dealership General Manager and copy in the Dealer Principal and Constellation, go to Citizens advice Centre (CAB). Even if it was plastered all over the walls it would be good practice for you to see it clearly written on whatever you sign and be told this is a non-refundable deposit. This type of thing is just the sharp practice of con-men a good business wants straight business. If it's a case of you did know and/or were told or shown that's another matter, there are bad customers as well as bad business practices, I can assure you of that with having been on both sides of retail (and business) sales.

It depends on the type of charger but you can usually get a good indications with its use. I like the old analogue swing needle dial or digital number display the two or three colours LED lights are a lot less useful. As I put I'm not a CTek fan. I've brought back "to life" a few "dead" batteries with no real effort just use of battery charger(s) and time and patience, the last one or two or both items are often out of stock with some people/garages There's a bit more to it to tell how good the battery is but using something like the Ring Smartcharge 4 on an over-complicated German marque car like a VW product and interpreting it's use is good start for dealing with such over an internet forum, to begin with at least. https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Of course prevention is better than cure as true duff batteries are very rare but they are made to be duff by use, abuse, neglect and lack of (or forgotten) knowledge leading to distress battery purchases which are often premature or very premature purchases. Which is why I promote occasional preventative charging which can give the battery a reliable useful life of a lot longer than the 5 (or 4?, or less now?) years that VWŠkoda state, even perhaps on fully loaded 2025 models. Have a look at any charger's instructions for its uses and limitations, and some of those you can get around.

You want the wiring diagram for your car as the camera may well have been wired up wrong, never trust bodge wiring or the colour of wires used. If things aren't too balls'd-up @pab567 might be able to help you.

Sorry I couldn't find anything that you wanted. I think getting the arm off might be the most perplexing bit and after the gear lever gaiter surround might be similar to as on other models.

If that was also at the only show I went to at Stowe School then I might have (ETA: seen your car), I can't remember what year and whether it was pre or post Covid, I don't think the show was quite as big as it may be now. I enjoyed it and would go back again but any shiny cars would also need to be rare for me, cars that you used to see all the time before they are rusted away and not fashionable enough to be considered an over-valued, over-priced "classic old car but just an old car or old banger.

I'll have a look later to see if I can find anything - if not you could perhaps post a guide of when you did it and the arm.

Yeap you need to be selective as to when and where you buy the more expensive higher octane petrols with their greater cleaning additive packages. As you now the price per litre of any fuel can vary within different petrol stations a short distance from each other and vary more so a little further on. I think my wife said it's usually about 12p per litre more for say Shell V-Power (other more expensive higher octane petrols with their greater cleaning additive packages are of course available, this is just one example at one point in time in one location) so if you're only worried about cost of mpg to that fill I doubt you'll get your money back just on that. Having said that there's very small Shell petrol station not far from us that just keeps the prices per tanker load and usually very good prices but sometimes they might even be a bit more expensive than other if there's been a sudden rash of fast frequent price dropping by other petrol stations around. My wife has filled up with Shell V-Power at less cost than a supermarket 95. She keeps an eye on petrol prices but they do change so much and often. The next town to us is she tells me 2p a litre cheaper for the same petrol and another smaller town just out of area less per litre still. In my opinion if you have a 2011 VW then you really want to keep it as long as you can as it's probably better built and longer lasting than later models, I'd not want a 2017-on model for build quality and longevity plus all the annoying bottom-wiping computer dictating "features" and driver "assists" and "aids" and all the computer systems on the car that can and do go wrong or just play up in annoying ways. Computers plus over the air updates, wot could possibly go wrong. I've always found computer systems to be very trouble-free and robust over the last x-decades. I would find add-in additives a right PITA with modern cars (90s onwards) I'm happy for the petrol companies to do the work.