Former

Have a look or search for threads and info, or Google that may well bring you back here, for how much or how little info a 2000 VWŠkoda might or might not give to any scan tool. It also depends on what and what level scan tool or code reader you are using. Go back to pre-scan tool diagnostics anyway, which you normally need no matter the age of the car and how many modules and sensors it has on it. Failed emissions, running rich - by how much. What is the service history of the car particularly recently, did you give the car a good warm up and blow out before taking it for the MoT. Haas the car done much mileage recently and in the past few year, or since a last proper service. Any new parts fitted or work done on the car in the last year. You can check sensors with a multimeter.

4 and a half year old isn't that fresh but I suppose at least it has had time to settle and perhaps lose some of it "rubber" smell and excess black colouring. 🙂

Is 2020-12 manufacturer year and month or "best before" date. 😄 I used to fit top hoses that were crazy at less than 12 months old, which is why I went over to (purpose made from ) silicone hose kit (three-ply as four ply was difficult to fit in some circumstances) a fit and forget solution (I know you can't get such kits for your model).

Usually it's case of getting a plastic tool and levering up the the gear lever shroud base, screwdriver can be used if you are careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the base or where it fits into. You can use purpose made car trim tools or I use an old kitchen spatula for many jobs like this. Usually as you run the tool along you will feel where the holding lugs are to gently ease inwards and up, once you have two or three sides released the base will lift out giving you access. There will be videos on the internet where this will be shown, perhaps not on a Scala but the principles remain the same. To lubricate, WD-40 Multi-Use is not a long lasting lubricant, I recommend GT85 as it is a good longer lasting lubricant, a good penetrating/releasing fluid too, has PTFE (instead of silicone) and smells nice. It may be available in Italy as it is also made by WD-40 Company but I do not know. - https://gt85.co.uk/ Try spraying one small area at a time and test the gear lever movement for creaks to confirm where the creak is, and if it is the gear lever causing the creaking. Good luck.

By by toggle on/off do you mean a momentary sort of action, in that you slightly push forward (or pull back) to both go from dip to main or main to dip, if so I didn't know that type was on a Fabia (Mk3 at least) but I could be wrong. I hope you're not digging deeper down but you seem happy to venture forth, whatever you do don't break either stalk or have them that they can't go back to how they were, and have back-up of computer changes to restore back to a previous working position. I look forward to the photos, good luck.

This video goes well with the previous video.

I have changed my mind I will put the video up in case it is of use. -

Hi, welcome. (edited as error) Have a look or search of the threads here and on Audio, Electronics and Security forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/ HTH.

You can accidentally when not thinking (and bursting for a pee to find the petrol station/shop hasn't a toilet) put diesel in an old petrol car, guess how I know.

Oh dear, sounds like you need to contact Škoda Sterling to see if it's a problem from the coding work, of course this would have to be confirmed, and it might mean a restore to previous, but I'm very far from an expert in this just going from some of the posts I've seen on here. It might be some values can be changed with the VCDS but if you do that and then still need to contact and visit Škoda Sterling and they see it they might not be happy. Perhaps Lewis or others may be able to offer more and better advice.

Have you had a look here. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/

I've used 20w in say -10c winter, it goes to -15c, but to use it in these temperatures is another reason to have a good quality (synthetic) oil which I did, and for fast road use in summer usually not more than 30c here but we have had 41.2c IIRC. Don't get too hung up on the raw numbers and generalisations, the oil needs to be suitable for your engine and its use and environment but no I'd not be using 20w-50 in my wife's 2015 VW engine.

Have a look here. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/

Just for info, if you have AA cover they have the proper vans to take the fuel out of the tank away. Here's some advice from an AA rival for balance. - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/wrong-fuel-recovery/ Must admit I was wondering but the diesel may not have ben dispensed by a fuel station fuel pump and if it's done it's done.

We are only looking at images on a screen and the coolant is in an expansion tank that seems to have a bit of a tint to the clear plastic so this will effect how the coolant looks inside, taking a little coolant out would show it's true colour to compare (be it pinkish, violet or purple) to a sample of G13 or G12evo, or other G12 - or compare the expansion tank to another 2023 Superb. I'm not sure there would be any or much noticeable difference in colour in mixing G13 with any of the G12s but if they are from different suppliers who knows but I doubt it but I've also not seen those mixes so can't know for sure. @GreenGeorge something I forgot - the coolant is a bit below the 'Min' level, I'd want to know why. This is a subject that might best be covered by looking in, and/or asking in the Superb Mk3 or Mk4 forum with those photos to see how they compare for 2023 owners.

0w8 to 20, what VW have finally got to is like syrup. 😄 I'm much more used to 20w-50 engine oil and been using (fully) synthetic oils for decades despite being told they would destroy my engines (by people who barely used their "classics" when I used mine as dailies, the oils offered additional protection from all the other cooling issues and overheats rather than destroy the engines.

Bearing wear might be given over importance but that'd be another great debate, as I put I lean towards 0w30 but could be persuaded to 0w-20 (by other than VW I'm afraid). Annual mileage that low might well necessitate annual changes at least, that's not the sort of mileage that's always helpful but I've know old cars with lower annual mileage, though I'd not trust this with a modern car particularly something like a VW. I'm with you I prefer extra protection from oils above the minimum required standard (mainly or when something else goes wrong on old cars but also for spirited driving when wanted and possible). I'm helping change the gearbox (and rear axle) oil on a mate's car and I've managed to persuade him to go with a better quality gear oil to save having to do the change so soon again. He previously used an oil that meets the manufacturer's specification but it wasn't that long ago and it needs changing again, a known issue with the gearbox. For decades now having had various old over-priced, over valued cars called "classics" I've dealt with oil beliefs and know like other beliefs most stop with what they're happy with and feel reassured by and that's fair enough as science has fashions and changes with tim and makes mistakes and frankly sometimes lies (it's not just those at VW) so who really knows who right and when and what's good for one may not be so good for another. In the old days when I was a young girl and it was all fields around here I knew of people who never or very rarely done any service work on their cars and they carried on working for many years so possible a much more money, time and hassle saving and efficient way of car ownership but I can't see getting away with this for so long with more modern cars. Even experts don't agree so expecting this with a general population of car owners is optimistic.

Any sign of any impact perhaps from something throw up from the road. Noises can be very difficult to pin down and anything from the underside can be amplified to sound loud inside the car. Look generally in the front area, both wheels arches and perhaps engine bay area then look at the underside going back to the rear. Noise(s) that sound like they're at the front can originate from the rear and visa-versa, and what one person describes as sounding at the front another person my say is at the rear, or middle. Try bouncing the front of the car, passenger side first, see how bouncy it is before it stops, really the shocks absorbers are the springs and the dampers dampen the movement from them, the weaker the damper(s) the more bouncy. If the passenger side varies a lot from the driver's side then that is more worn, leaking, "missing", damaged than the other.

POA has pros and cons of use, similar or same things can be achieved by different blends, as always a good oil is a good. Unless VW have made (another) balls-up or compromise with their engines I'm not sure using a "thinner" or "thicker" oil would show up much in the short to medium term, oil analyst might perhaps show different wear on different bits or to different extent. For other than cold starts perhaps a thin for its 20 range 0w-20 compared to a thick for its 30 range 0w30 oil might show more differences and effect in use, whether enough to make any real odds other than a very small difference in emission and fuel consumption only use and time might tell. Judging by past experience I don't think VW would rush to let their Dealerships and their staff, let alone customers, know of any problems relating to certain engines or generally whether related to oil weight range or not but as they don't make the oils (or coolants or batteries) themselves I'm sure they'd be happy to use them as a scapegoat (again?).

As appropriate, low power on car and/or tool, drops in wi-fi, internet, bluetooth, non-up-to-date, programs, are potentials for non-success (and off-course with someone like me fat-finger(s), numberer and letters mix-ups).

Current VW coolant (from 2019) is G12evo (following on from G13, of course!) to me 12evo looks pinkish but VW call G12+, G12++, G13 and G12evo violet (G13 looks pinkish to me, not seen the other two). What they are not is brown - but the coolant you have looks an off (dirty?) pinkish to me, as Ootohere has put perhaps mixed with something else, I'd not expect that from a two year old car, or two years after a (good) coolant change. Two owners on a 2023 car(?). HTH.

VWŠkoda damper don't appear to be very long lasting, my mate's heavy Toyota still have factory fitted suspension and it's heading towards 30, an ex-neighbour has/had a Yaris closing out its second decade too. My wife's 2015 Mk3 front dampers only lasted 41k-miles and 6 years before they had to be replaced and the Dealership replacements were "misting" after only 11 months / 6-7k-miles of use. Pretty p1ss-poor quality and longevity from VWŠkoda.

I'm with the courts I don't fully trust VW. 😄 I was actually leaning towards 0w-30 if I was keeping the car, thinking 0w-20 was more of the faintly ridiculous nth degree of saving fuel in an overweight vehicle on oversized wheels and tyres, with often only one or two of the 4/5 seats occupied and offering cars that have so much power and speed. I like you like to drive in a spirited way occasionally which can often be less fuel efficient. And the internal combustion engine is such an ancient technology that for decades more and more systems have been bolted on to it to save less and less fuel, plus I've never had the impression the mainstream VW engines are anywhere near the front of the field for engine development. The 15k-miles for LL use might depend on how that mileage is achieved, nothing really simulates real time, real world use which is how customers help with product testing, certainly for a couple of English car brands I've owned anyway. 😄 But as you rightly put why go off anything anybody tells you particularly on the internet without checking and cross referencing so anyone that goes with VW as the manufacturer of the engine is starting at least from a reasonable point. I'm not a VW fan so biased against them. I'm also not with VWŠkoda for their 6 years / 60K-miles interval foe engine air filter changes, particularly for a diesel that needs all the help it can get to be a bit cleaner. DSG box I know nothing of and keep away from, I was never a fan of it when it come out decades back but I'm sure it's useful for some, dilutes the fun of spirited driving in my way of thinking, good for racetrack stuff no doubt. All that should get my opinions well discount for many here. 😄 Be interesting to see what the 0w-20 engines are like after 10-12 years use, they might still be near pristine and 0w-30 ones recycled.

ETA: Long Lasting is a bit of marketing con to me, what it's saying is this oil has been formula to be better soi that it allows more use, suggest what the oil recommend for 9,400/annual needn't be as good, a very good oil will offer better, wider, more protection for longer anyway whether they put LL or Long Life on the label. The engine, the way the car is used, its environment, will dictate the actual oil life. These sort of things seem to me to be more aim at fleet purchasers with side benefit of general public appeal. How far is this taken, just out of interest is the same oil filter specified for annua and flexible (9,400 and 20k?) oil changes does anyone know?

Uhm, VW have made and changed recommendations about oil and coolant in the past possibly to cover previous mistakes and compromises, German car engineering ain't all it's cracked up to be particularly this century. Who knows, what goes on there might land them up in court one day, whoops. 😄 Any 0w-30 or 0w-20 is going to be a good oil (other engine manufacturers are on 0w-16, 0w-12 and 0w-8) will be good oils there will be degrees of differences in protection and of course the oil want to be suited to the engine and its environment and use, so it's horses for courses. The 20 and 30 (of 0w-20 and 0w-30) is a range so one oil at 20 could be close to another oil at 30 especially in use and worn, so it's horse for course again. - (ETA: the 0w of course is same cold crank starting spec on both the oils.) - What is Oil Viscosity a.k.a. Oil Weight? - https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/what-is-viscosity.php The modern oils at this sort of level offer very good protection but if stop/start is used a lot, lots of frequent short journeys (as my wife's Fabia does) then a bit of extra protection might be the just in case belt, braces and bit of string reassurance and if you want to throw in extra bits of chewing gum on top why not. I saw something about GM now recommending a 'thicker' oil than 0w-20 for their engine, how much GM practices for engine building various from VW I don't know but at least they're dealing with the issue but then it's in the USA even VW had to deal with things and cough up in the USA. Europe and particularly UK are much easier touches. Personally I don't over worry about the VW dictates of yet another specification on top of the others already there, and these VAG engines aren't that special (VW 4-pots have always sounded rough to me and I'm used to driving 1960 and 70s BL engines until only a few years ago. I've used Millers oils for a few years now and favour them as they are a local oil blender and their oils seem good to me, I'm currently using Millers Oils EE Performance in my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI engine and 5-speed manual gearbox, the gearbox improvement was noticeable, engine I don't drive the car enough or now listen to all the various engine bay noises at various times. Yer pays yer money and take your choice.