Former

What's the pressure cap like and what's your cleaning like. Was the "glitter" put in by the shovelful then, how much was in that could work its way up to jam the pressure cap. If there was that much it could jam the pressure cap I would have thought (but don't know) that would be enough to see or scrape out but if you are worried sure the best remedy would be to replace the pressure cap with a good quality new one then you can fit it and forget it - well at least until the cap wears or is faulty or there is another issues that could involve the pressure cap.

Don't just rely on the digital record get a paper printed back up each time, I can personally assure you the garages and VWŠkoda UK make and have errors on digital system, my evidence of this is already on this site. In the UK if you are using a VWŠkoda Dealership they can give both a "Individual record" of the work just done and a "Complete record" of all recorded stuff, from pre-inspection onwards in your case - this is in addition to any Dealership paper printout of the bill/invoice and worksheet(s). ETA: they also have different names for the different work do make sure they have reordered this correctly as sorting it out later is a right pain, guess how I know and if an independent garage does it wrong there is only a short time for them to correct their mistake and if they cannot or are too later it remains incorrect (guess how I know). If you are old like my wife and I the Dealership may tend to paper print the "Individual record" without being asked to as they know us oldies want it on paper as we have decades of experience of how bad computer systems can be, thank gawd we don't have to rely them in our cars. :yikes:

Tony, thanks for reporting back and the best of luck. Very few will believe that gearbox oil makes any difference. Personally I would never have bothered with a NAPA oil, it might be good or very good but who knows unless you have a safety sheet to suggest whose oil it might be then you don't know the model quality of the oil. With a good or very good quality oil you don't need additives (subject to using the correct oil type and grade) and perhaps state of the gearbox. It makes sense that another lot of German engineers will be able to sort out the compromises of the first lot of German engineers. To me German engineering (good) quality started to diminish at the change of century/millennium only the undeserved good reputation continued with the help of marketing and UK snobbery for BMW and Merc. I takes two oil changes to really change the oil over and that's being thorough with both changes which garages rarely have the time and inclination for but if you have sufficient good to not so good mix ratio, not so good not diluting the effect of the good too much, splashing around in the box it should be fine and your results so far have proved this to be the case. I had to tip my wife's car to empty and refill the box more and I'm still not sure I got all out and back in but it was enough of each and the English company (Millers) oil has given good results but I might drain and top up another litre in spring just so I know the contents is the EE as much as is possible but that might depend on weather, health and if I can be arse farting about on a car, particularly a VW. 😁

VW 3-pot engine, take it to 110PS and it might need more attention given to it than most average drivers/owners would know or bother about for longevity but Warrior193 isn't the average driver/owners judging by all his posts here, Mrs.Warrior193 might be an entirely different matter but if she's anything like my better half then she'd expect her partner to sort the car for her to just drive so things would be kept in order, or as much as allowed. Regardless of if there's a problem now and what it is as soon as the car was out of its (minimal) 3-year warranty if it is to be kept for any good length of time to have the engine "serviced" perhaps more frequently and using better oil than a Dealership or most garages/mechanics would particularly if the car isn't used enough.

Unless you have already done so and the other posters here know about it I think you need to give more information and back story to this. When did this start and why did it start. How long have you had the car and been driving it. What is the service history of the car and what service, maintenance and repairs have you and others made on the car recently and fairly recently. Photos, landscape not portrait where appropriate as that gets more information into the image, of the engine bay and carb.

Sorry, no he wouldn't. I very much dislike glues (adhesives) and sealants and paints and the fumes they give off, we are in the 21st century and still we use these chemicals as they are cheap for the producers and car manufacturers, and things like DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluid, all just annoy me and I am generally very successful at avoiding glues and paints in my life. Personally I don't like too much bling on a car but if I was to put on surrounds for the door lock push buttons they would be pressed in and secured to the panels like the surrounds to shoes and boot lace eyelets holes to reinforce them (forget what they are called).

As I put I have no idea what you can and can't get in Greece. I don't have Freeview Play I have Freeview, I don't watch TV programs on a a tablet, pill, or phone I use a TV set. I have an arial on the roof (well it's actually on a metal pole secured to the joint chimney stack) that has a (coax) cable off it that is terminated at a wall socket and cable from that to TV. Very old fashion now but very robust and reliable with no concerns about batteries and internet supply. It was paying twice to watch boxing matches that took me away from Murdoch's monopoly in the mid-90s, I had an independent system that could also pick up and pay for Murdoch's stuff. I also watched on Eurosport and another channel I wish I could remember the name of as it's boxing broadcasts were much more honest but a lot less professional and slick which improved them from the pay-per-view Sky stuff (originally I think it was all to be pay-per-view or card top-ups rather than monthly/annual fees). Murdoch was losing so much money he had to launch the rocket to get it on-air, breaking the law IIRC. Don't fall into hero-worship with your exotic and (normally not so well built) American cars. Those that like cars generally and "pertrolheads" have respect for Alfas and they being for drivers rather than just A to B driving owners. I suffered enough with Fiat (and British, well English, made cars) ownership ever to go to an Alfa but have to give respect to Alfa owners for recognising their driver appeal (for a tin-top 4/5 seater in T's case). And I'm not sure the post was aimed at you but it is comparing different oils that are also different weights so lots of variables to the comparisons then add in the difference in mileage and in different cars, I would expect differences but they may not be the point of the post which may relate to a misunderstanding of an earlier post, difficult to know without questions and answers.

An up to date VCDS is more likely to be accurate than a Snap-On but conformation of codes is a good step. I agree but with diagnostics checking is batter than assuming but they are not the best place to start from given the information available so far.I For location of module J431, possibly in the boot area(?) but you really want to look in or ask in the Superb Mk2 forum and/or get access to the Workshop Manual for that model and year and the wiring diagram from your VIN (which some members may have access to) would be useful for diagnostics and physical repair(s) if required. Skoda Superb Mk2 (2008-2015) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk2-2008-2015/ Good luck, let us know how you get on

Be serious, do you really think I would have Sky or other mobile or a Sky app of any sort, I watched for free (except the very annoying adverts) on Freeview. Or I could watch on youview but the digital box has been switched off and disconnected gathering dust for at least a couple of years. We happily pay the UK TV licence to keep the BBC going, which others all over the world can also benefit from for free, on some of their programs and transmissions at least. Wheeler Dealers is a Discovery program and seen in many countries over the world as far as I know, other than un UK how they get it I don't know. This episode is from 2022 so not a recent one and IIRC Elvis is no longer with Mike but I have never been a close follower of the show, I just remember Mike from decades back when he was on what they call terrestrial television now, when there were only 5 channels in the UK (unless you had a satellite dish and receiver).

Last night I saw an episode of Wheeler Dealers (series 17, episode 16) I don't watch many episodes but this on caught my attention, it was on a 195k-mile (314,000 km) Jaguar S-Type R and rather than start stripping a V8 engine in a pretty full 2002 engine bay they took an oil sample to be analysed at a place with a name familiar to us, it turned up unexpected results one possible interpretation related to recent concerns here. Also in this episode Elvis appeared to use the wrong type of feeler guage to check the gap on new plugs before installing them, a subject with many posts on a previous thread here. It showed three possible ways to test for potential head gasket failure - and Elvis called the fluid browosit blue it might interest you to see it you can skip passed the supercharger and other stuff.

Had a look at a pretty good video for the Autophix OM126P, it showed it for American IM readiness, looks like you get a lot for around £30 and nicely designed, one vid had you get free lifetime updates I don't know if that applies to UK or not, freeze frame and live data will be useful. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsfvtdCTukk Usual advice with code reader make sure it is fully updated before you plug it in. The limits might be that this is a generic code but the vehicle has also registered an issue by throwing up a couple of warning lights. P003A - "What Does the Engine Code P003A Mean? Character "P" in the first position of Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) represents the powertrain system (engine and transmission), "0" in the second position means that this is a generic OBD-II (OBD2) DTC. "0" in the third character position in a DTC indicates that the fuel and air metering and auxiliary emission controls is experiencing a malfunction. The last two characters "3A" is DTC number. OBD2 Diagnostic Trouble Code P003A means that Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control 'A' Position Exceeded Learning Limit has been detected. How Serious Is the Code P003A? This issue is critical and can lead to damages in your car. Please clear it first, drive your car for a couple of days. If the issue reappears, Carly recommends to fix your car to resolve this issue." - https://www.mycarly.com/obd-codes/p003a-turbochargersupercharger-boost-control-'a'-position-exceeded-learning-limit/ Have you driven the car and put it under a bit of load say going up a hill or pushing the turbo with higher revs in a gear higher than you should be in to see if it's under performing? Car running well being a VW always makes me think of potentially computer brain-farts and perhaps electric, wires, connectors etc.. Did you delete the error code after the old off-'n'-on-agen failed? A higher level scan tool might give more info and detail. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCDvnHKM6m0 The alternator can't do much if the car's not running, 70% /12.35v isn't low (particularly if you go with the 12.4v / 80% but why not fully charge the battery to 100% with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the car in the Owner's Manual and for the battery charger maintainer and recharge at a lower rate (of amps) over a longer time as possible. When the car has an issue(s) it's best to have the battery in the best state of charge possibly, particularly if the issue involves computer, electrics, engine starting as this can help with diagnostics and repairs whereas a low state of charge can hinder diagnostics and repairs. (I know you know this, put for other readers.) ETA: IIRC(?) throttle body issues were generally with 2019 cars

Is yours just a reader or fuller scan tool? Have you done the driver/owner checks yet? Any work done on the car recently, or elbows in engine bay? Without codes and better still live data there are so many possibilities. Might even be something as simple as a quick spray of GT85 around the throttle pedal. I'll take it that it is fully and properly serviced and maintained in a timely manner - and that the battery is in a good state of charge. 😄 There been a few threads on 2018s but not these two lights IIRC(?) more issues with 2019 cars IIRC(?). See what tomorrow brings. Good luck. I know these things have to be sorted ASAP as a distress call from the Boss means immediate attention and attendance usually at most inconvenient times but saying so only makes matters worse. 🫠

ETA: 16" tyres give over 20% more sidewall than those bloody silly 18" if all the info is correct.

If the internet info I got is correct - always check, double-check and cross reference any information you get from any source internet / sellers / manufactures even, note I haven't check this - here are some pictorials to give you some idea. The list I looked at show two different size wheels in 18" - 8.5" wide ET 41 and 8" wide ET 41 I've gone with 8" as just an uneducated guess, your wheels will have the size on them, probably on the inside face where you can't see them unless you take the wheel off the car. So 8"wide 18" (ET 44) wheel with bloody silly 235/45ZR18 94W tyres (could be worse could be 19" wheels) against 16" 6.5" (ET 41) wide wheels with say 215/60R16 tyres. HTH. Info from these sites. - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/ https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Sorry I have no idea about updates with the VCDS system. You should be able to get info about issues from the scan tool or wait for VCDS users here to guide you. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01537 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00497 Otherwise you can use other diagnostic tools, a scan tool is just one diagnostic tool, such as multimeter, test bulb for load, your eyes, ears, touch to confirm supplies live, return, computer, are reaching or not reaching where or reporting back to where or not as your codes are for open or short circuit and supply voltage Implausible signal. You can look at wires and connectors and wiggle them I assume the steering wheel controls are actually on the steering wheel but where are all the controls and switches for headlights, on stalk, dash, etc.. Other issues may be related or partially related to headlight issues or totally separate, if you have other error codes recorded that will not delete and not return with some use of the car then put those codes up here too. This guy is quite thorough and checks and cross references the issues, resolves and results if you can't find your specific type of issue the general work pattern will apply from other issues on the videos. - Milligan Auto Diagnostics - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos

It's the drain and flush after repair that most garages, mechanics and owners won't bother with - and even those that do probably won't do a thorough job of it. 😁 😉 😁 (sorry couldn't resist, well I course I could have but obviously didn't, am I bad 😟)

For future a list of the codes would be useful and perhaps posting in the Diagnostics & VCDS forum may (or may not) have got more answers quicker. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ General advice, whatever scan tool you use do ensure the program is for you (make) model and year of vehicle, that the program is fully updated before you use the tool, that the car battery and if appropriate scant tool battery are not in a lower state of charge otherwise you may get spurious readings - and particularly with electric power steering you want plenty of battery power as it uses a lot. Once you have taken a report delete all error codes each time, some may return but warnings go away with a bit of use of the vehicle, check for, record and delete any codes anyway, starting fresh and as clean as possible keeps things simpler. HTH. Good luck, report back and let us know how you get/got on.

ETA: AG posted whilst I was still typing but I'll leave this up in case and it gives Ross Tech alternative(s). There might be info in the OBDEleven owners form but the following turned up top of first page of my Google search, I never suggest only taking what's on the top of the first page of a search or just the first page so do check and cross reference any information you get from anywhere, internet, manufacturers, anywhere. Note, I've not read much on the links I've posted as my eyes are playing up today so take it as an example of possible searches. This from Ross Tech, the VCDS lot. - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/17984/ OBDEleven lot. - https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/16711/access-basic-settings-steering-assistance

I know all drivers are supposed to be against the 'evil' insurers, some insurers are not good but many times consumers/purchases get the quality they deserve in the constant rush to take everything to the easiest, cheapest and bottom in price and quality, but introducing a bit of very unpopular and probably fully rejected logic, if you have an incident, whether you claim or not, that is proof of risk rather than potential. Graham, probably my poor memory but I think I remember seeing that video a good while back from a post on this site and I thought there were posts on it then perhaps some from you but I might well be wrong. The chap seems nice enough but a bit naïve in some areas particular if as I think he is he also done a video on a Spridget or Sprite, I think I know I've seen him with one on the Lexus LS400 I think he was driving in that vid and he starts the vid with saying something like "most of us think of car insurance as a rip off" hardly a balanced start to the matter, but it's his channel he can say what he wants. Only this morning I saw a telly program that features a local recovery company (CMG) where a dad and son were picking up a scooter that had been stolen and damaged and because of the £500 excess the dad was going to get a quote to see cost of repair before considering having the son perhaps put in a claim, he said this all on national telly, same as some posters on this site sometimes, telling the whole world so you hope they let their insurers know this or perhaps that the insurers never see. Also there was a 76 year old lady that was recovering her car after being stopped for no insurance who had been paying for insurance for two years but with the wrong reg on her insurance and she is convinced that is not her fault. The Police let her off, discrimination perhaps just because she's an old woman, would they have let off an old man, but the insurers stuck to their guns, in my experience the insurers is told/advised to check all details before taking out the policy. I know she didn't do it on purpose and most would be on her side unless she ran into your car and you couldn't claim off her insurance because it wasn't valid. Their are good companies and good customers around but also their are bad companies and bad customers, always have been, perhaps there are more so now or just more noticeable or reported. Must sort out our home insurance now. 🙂

Depends on where and what you drive on but I can only remember it happening to me twice in 47 years of driving. If you drive where there is always loose bits then obviously the risks increase but that might be the only time you ever notice such a thing, plus you would also be unlucky for it to cause any real damage. Forget about it, if it happens again at least you know what to do when it's safe to do so by which time it might have freed itself anyway. ETA: And I'm pretty sure there will be many other drivers who have never had or notice such a thing happen to them in all their driving experience, now I expect some will post as exceptions to this. 😄 Good luck.

Fair enough but I would have thought it more likely that the seal has or gets a little give, rubber seals you can perhaps replace if you want, the metal pressure spring type seals used to be just replace the cap but they normally lasted a very long time even if the cap was removed occasionally or more often to check coolant level perhaps at 6 monthly services, which (and are) nothing like the modern Dealership/garages "services" (engine oil & filter change and look for more chargeable work) you get now. I also don't think you have anything to worry about with this level of coolant loss but you will be very cautious and vigilant which can be a good thing if you are not overstressing yourself about something that is of no real concern, too much stress isn't good for mind or body.

Sorry typos glory tonight. should be - Yes LPG bottle can weight a bit but note the measurement - I took from - that website - for your car - said for - your - car fully loaded - and - (the 5" /12.7cm (claimed) - clearance for my Midget I believe was for car - (Midget) - with liquids but not fully loaded or with driver and passenger (two seats only of course)), Computer mouse and my brain have been playing up today, even more than usual.

Hi, welcome. None of the taping on the wires looks great but if the wires are securely joined and protected then OK. The red crimp connector has different levels of indent in the connector so check the wires are fully working before completing the job. There are all sorts of connectors and tubing available on the internet are you sure there is nothing available to successfully bridge the gap on your washer tube connection without having to remove c-pillar cover. HatBoyHarvey's videos are usually very good pity he has not got a Mk3. To take the C panel out it seems to be move the door seals away and a bit of gentle pulling persuasion to get at the clips behind it then squeeze or push the clips a little. It seems it might be one of those jobs that you find out what to do as you go along. Have something to gently raise the panel away to feel by resistance where the clips are, like a plastic trim tool or lever, I use old kitchen spatulas and my fingertips for such jobs (always 'fun' and a 'pleasure'). It's all fantastic-plastic so careful not to break anything. With the combi (estate) there is another panel with clips and hooks to the top of the panel that look like they go into the metal car body frame (oh, the joy of it all). Things will be clearer as you go along with the job, not something I would rush to participate in but probably easy enough after you have done it once. I would sooner fill the gap in the water tube. obviously making it is very secure joints and flexible enough for location and refitting of all for door opening and closing. HTH.

A reason, particular for those in more extreme hot and cold conditions, to use better quality gear oils than standard to cope better with the extremes and offer more protection for longer. VW don't care about how longer a gearbox lasts after the longest period of warranty they offer and it's not 25 years. I even use a better quality oil my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 (manual) gearbox, even though many, especially mechanics and engineers (sorry T) say it's a waste of time changing the gearbox oil (it's only splash") let alone to anything better but I have had good results from changing gearbox (and back axle) oils and changing to better oils over decades with various cars (of course the professionals say "placebo". 😁 Yet VW have a history of changing oil specification for their gearboxes, 😆 You having changed it once and then again the reason it's so dirty might be because of the changes clearing out the muck, you need to do two (thorough) oil changes to really change the oil because of residue oil and muck left in from any change which to some extent dilutes the effects and cleanliness of the new fresh oil going in. The fact that it is an old vehicle probably makes using a (much) better oil more practical and economical sense if you are keep the car any length of time, especially when using under more extreme weather conditions and arduous use.

10kg isn't much, a good meal for some. 😁 Yes LPG bottle can weight a bit but note the measurement I rom that website said for car fully loaded (the 5" /12.7cm (claimed) I believe was for car with liquids but not fully loaded or with driver and passenger (two seats only of course)), yes 74Ah battery weights a bit more than standard but not that much (you can get the weights from battery specifications and as I said you can forget the difference between 170 and 165 tyres as it's too small and would probably fall in the differences between cars when the cars left the production line I would guess. 😄 Digital camera, these photos were in the early 1990s, taken on film and then cheaply developed on to paper, these were larger prints but still not large. It's raining all day tomorrow so I will have a look then for you and I want to find other photos too (hope I don't get distracted looking at the old photos for too long as I usually do). Losing information of all sorts is an ongoing problem, and was a problem of the past too.