Former

Assuming the internet statistics for both wheels are correct (ET is shown on the inside of the VWŠkoda wheels) here is a pictorial of existing and new to confirm, from willtheyfit.com. - https://www.willtheyfit.com/

I missed that yours was an intermittent fault too, my mistake. If the rear brakes are like on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 then the pads and discs were the second easiest I've ever replaced (not that I've done many), easiest were the Fabia's front discs and pads but I'd guess the Superb has more complications around the wheels. As before it could just be a coincidence or was present before you done the work, or you might have caught something perhaps. Another coincidence ,is I've just finished watching the following video (I'm a Subscriber), check out the first car, I like this chap as he checks and double checks stuff and doesn't mind saying or putting when he's made a mistake, might give you an idea of somethings to check. I also like he uses good basic things like a headlight bulb for load testing where appropriate and wiggles wires and connections (hot, cold, wet, damp, etc. can also make differences especially to intermittent). HTH a bit. -

Probably the sensor and/or ring muck then. Bear in mind I'm not a mechanic or expert in anything.

Well could be a coincidence or ABS issue was present before the gearbox service was done. If you are fortunate enough to use a (rare, very, very rare(?)) place that has fair and honourable people owning, running and working at it you could ask if they check just in case. A friend had her car serviced at a garage and a week later her brother-in-law was driving the car when an oil light came on and it was found then the engine had emptied but as she'd used a good garage they said they'd look at the car and report back, they surmised the sump plug hadn't been torqued up, they sorted all and paid for the AA membership that was used to get the car back so she got a sincere apology and year's worth of AA membership - so the very, very rare do exist. I'd look and/or in the Superb Mk3 forum if doing a gearbox service could be related to cocking something up to end up with a damaged wire for a rear (left) ABS issue or report (assuming rear ABS issue is correct reporting). Good luck let us know how you get on.

I'd also suggested check also, wiring and connections, car battery is in good state of charge and health (as mentioned earlier in thread) and that the scan tool program was for your model and age (VIN?) and is/was fully update before use and that the scan tool battery was in good state of charge (if not powered from car). A few years back a neighbour's Merc had a bad connection to an ABS sensor, away from the sensor (luckily another neighbour's TopDon scan tool could give this detail) being a 2005 Merc dash warnings suggested the world would end if the car wasn't taken straight to a Dealership, the error code cleared and didn't return before the car was taken in a few weeks later to an independent for it's uneconomical tronic gearbox issues sorting and general tarting-up when I guess an arm and and leg was paid out.

Just been looking at a 110R video from looking at a Felicia video posted up in the 'Classic Škoda; forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/529361-škoda-felicia-nürburgring

Then of course I had to look at the 110R vid.

Hi Phil, welcome. IIRC (never a certainly) the quick short answer is yes. Longer answer is yes it should, I think, if IIRC. You need a correct level scan tool and best that it's program is up to date for your year (VIN?) of Fabia before you use it and the scan tool and car (and fob) batteries are all in good state of charge. The proximity KESSY stuff always seem to be more PITA than even other VW stuff but should be no odds I believe for this. There will be threads and posts on Briskoda (not necessarily for Mk3 Fabia and just for Mk3 Fabia but other models) about doing this, a Google search often bring you back to Briskoda forums for these posts and threads. IIRC there is a thread or posts somewhere on Briskoda where a reputable concern done this for a VWŠkoda model and it was a rare fail needing more work (which I believe the reputable concern were going to pay for) apparently very rare - but I've had experience of 1 in 10,000 and 1 in 5,000 failure with expensive car parts and much more importantly 3% and 1 in IIRC 30,000 medical failures with others so I know rare doesn't mean non-existent. Plus of course always check and cross reference any information you get from any source (particularly the internet) even from manufactures as they have are errors and omissions (and updates). Good luck, Let us know how you get on.

When a (petrol) car won't start first two basic fundamental things that come to mind are is the engine getting fuel and spark, so fuel supply and electric, if someone else's car you'd check there's petrol in the tank (ignore petrol gauge) and the condition of the battery and its connections, and go from there with fuel and electric as required. An electric fuel pump covers both fuel and electric so a good part to test. Well done.

For plastic cover I'd just ring a local Dealership, they can often be cheaper and easier to get some the parts and should be able to identify the correct part and part number based on your VIN or reg, unlike some places with misinformation, errors and omissions in their parts databases (which of course still can happen with manufacturer's databases too). Some members on here have access to parts numbers based on VIN. That grill and sensor (and cover) position looks different to that on my wife's 2015 MK3 Fabia. Thinking about it if it's just a minor recalibration it's not worth bothering with insurance, perhaps it can be recalibrated with an appropriate scan tool. Good luck.

Just a note, this is the Fabia Mk3 forum, your name shows as you have a Superb, not that it matters generally. If the message is annoying you (depending on your year of car for MoT(?)s perhaps) you may be able to turn off front "assist" in the car's menu. Often these are a PITA anyway warning or activating prematurely like the world's most nervous passenger but this one has control over the car and not you, also a leaf can put it into deactivation. If it's out of alignment it might be great 'fun' sorting it, depending on your car insurance you might want to find out how much this might cost to realign if needed ASAP. Good luck.

Well I don't think the quality might be the same as before the brand was bought, same as for many other famous brand names. I'm certainly not a fan of the brand Tosch overall for car bits some might be great and all perhaps reasonable but for electrical and electronic car bits personally I'd buy Japanese made or German made 11 times out of 10. That's not to say the German labelled bits are actually made in Germany. I've no idea where the Tosch oil filters are made, I think it used to be the case that oil filter manufacturing could be done by a manufacturer for different brand names, things like this are usually kept pretty secret. Blue spot IIRC (not often enough) Blueprint is with Febi brand. The Febi sump plugs I bought where OK but not high quality, perhaps they never were I don't know. I can say I recommend the Mann I fitted to my wife's 2015 Fabia, that looked very good quality. Low pressure is usually potential more serious than higher pressure, if the oil pressure drops it's often best to stop the engine smartish. In very old cars oil pressure guages and lights were given up on as the average driver would be too concerned about the figures or needle movement or light coming on, supposedly some garages and mechanics sorted this by removing the bulb. 😆 The tyres will be better by actually using the car, they will have suffered a little but nothing you can do about the past and regular more frequent use will help them. Now you are sorted you only need to put petrol in . . . well for a while at least. 😆 Castrol are part of BP by the way, GTX started when it was owned by The Burmah Oil Company and Castrol Classic oils have been distributed by part of the MG Owners Club for a couple of decades, I used to own "classic" (old over-priced and over-valued cars). I personally prefer to use a smaller British blender, Miller Oils, and their EE Performance engine oil, not because I like the car but because my wife does lots of short journeys in it. A mates swears by Magnatec, well his relative works for Castrol. Thanks for reporting back. Good luck with all.

You can't beat the ECU (especially if it includes those computer programming engineers' ****-ups) but if you are cable rather than electric wire then as R_U_AFA has put the old adage was throttle pedal fully depressed. And as mikefelicia has put a good battery (and connections) in a good state of charge and health also helps, the most basic simple things are often overlooked especially by those that think at a higher level.

You're too pampered. 😁 And anyway different engine air filter and exhaust would be noisy anyway (even if they add very little or nothing or subtract from overall performance). Narrower wheels and tyres, especially if better quality tyres may be a bit quieter too. Depends on which way the project of a project car is aiming. A well set up engine, proper induction and exhaust, reasonably good transmission and well set up suspension with reasonable quality parts should also reduce noise, then there's selective use of sound dampeners. Most now are too busy with their infotainments to notice car noises or "stereo" so loud and powerful that it's all they can hear (or perhaps the panels rattling or vibrating with the excess bass, volume over quality). Same make, model and year of car and engine can vary a lot after decades of use and abuse and different tuners and engine builders can get different results. I've had cars with really annoying noise and vibrations at 3500 rpm, which was even more annoying as that was a good spot in the power band for car use. I remember my first Estelle 2 had an annoying noise and vibration at 70 mph in 4th (top gear) and as the national speed limit was 70 mph even more annoying, swapped to a 5-speed, not as nice for overall driving fun. I had another car with a newly installed reconditioned (4-speed) gearbox that was very noisy between 50-80 mph when I had a 500-mile a week work commute so I learnt to drive at 49 mph on motorways and often had to slow down so as not to undertake (illegal) when I was in the "slow" lane of the, then, three - but that' another car and story(ies).

One way to increase power is to reduce weight, some manufacturers used to offer stripped down versions of some models to make them more fun (for those that didn't want/need the usual mass market conveniences). Steel wheels (often narrower) with (often narrower) weighting less than the "lighter" alloys, not have electric motors for things that can be manually done, etc., etc..

I hope it doesn't use too much battery power too often, only activates when required, as a 2020 VW will already bash the car 12v battery a fair bit. Good luck. The info might be useful to other Octavia Mk3 owners.

Yes I found that (unusually) very easy and (unusually) easier than on, the few other, makes and models I've dealt with for cabin filters.

Good quality appropriate tyres, at correct pressure(s), have a big effect on the existing or future brakes. Again as with tyres size isn't everything, good quality metal and friction materials are more important and of course that the brakes are set up and if required adjusted correctly in a timely manner. It depends on how much concern there is for figures and where the dial needles are as to how much power is wanted, a car with lower power can be a lot more fun in real world driving conditions that those with more or much more power especially if the car is set up well for handling, which you would need (more so) with more power anyway. Most drivers have no idea how little power is actually required or used in many driving conditions especially newer modern drivers only used to modern car fashions. Another tuning factor that improves the car's handling (and speed) overall is usually very unpopular with male drivers is further driver training, not necessarily track training but real world road training and this can be transferred to future cars and not lost on one car after it has left your ownership. First tuning and improvements on the car is whole car full and proper thorough servicing, maintenance and repairs. It also provides good base for any further tuning and improvements.

I've no idea but always wonder about the margin of error in the VW computer programs and in the OBDEleven computer programs, in the sensors from new and age, wear and tear, you mentioned the change from Tosch. As you may already know you do need to check the scan tool program for your model and year of VW is fully up to date each time before you use the scan tool and that the battery in that device and in the car are not in a low state of charge otherwise it errors might be introduced to the readouts and reports. You could see what readings you get off a different scan tool and see if there's any variation between the two. You may have already do so but if not you might get more more replies more quickly in the Superb Mk3 forum. Here or there you'll want someone who's an experienced person with the engine and sensors and scan tools, hopefully they may see and reply to your post, good luck.

Perhaps it's 6 of one and a half-dozen of other, I've found some gloveboxes a pain to remove and/or put back, Sod's Law is often involved such as the one in my neighbour's car that was very easy and quick to remove and replace first time and a right fiddly pain the next time for no good reason. The Autoglym Fast Glass has a mild smell, I've no idea what as I'm not good with smells and colours but it has what I would think of as a cleaner type smell, possibly added for the very purpose of smelling like a cleaner but I've no idea. Autoglym Car Glass Polish smells I think like ammonia. I've not noticed any lingering smell after use but I'm not sensitive to smells or than some paints and glues those I can't stand and can give me a bit of a headache. Much might depend on where the particular car is parked and the position it's parked in and what's kept in the car perhaps.

I suggest doing the 36, 72, 80 (wotever) thousand mile service and checks staggered between using and driving you certainly you'd not do a thorough service of that nature in one day. Many think an engine oil and filter change is a service (just about all you get with modern cars at Dealerships) but as I've put the engine service is lower down the priority list and that includes a lot more than oi and filter change generally on a 24 year old car. Tyres is a good thing to change but you want to thoroughly check and attend to as required the brakes first and the steering and suspension if you don't want excessive wear on your new tyres. Always get the best appropriate tyres you can (and quality matters more than size even when modifying) old sizes of tyres often have a fair few cheap crappy or city shopping-trolley brands and models on offer, avoid those, bargains often turn out to be very disappointing or even disasters. Friend with a lift can be great but consider availability of tools, equipment, parts, consumables, cleaning and tidying up, shops being open - I've borrowed a lift and pit before and found the actual work time on the vehicle compared with the hassle not to be great but sometimes a lift is need particularly to do a god inspection of the underside. Before getting to the lift give the car a thorough clean, outside, underside, under wheel arches, if possible in engine bay, interior and boot that way you can see more when you have the lift and can discover more generally, not always an uplifting exercise but necessary particularly at start of ownership. Always, always, allow a lot more time than you think you will need, if you finish early great you can get other small jobs done but don't be tempted to take on too much in that spare time otherwise you've broken the rule of allowing lots of time and you might find you can't finish the extra job(s) or end up working too long or too late for you or others and worse still perhaps rush and/or not do the job(s) properly or cause more issues from rushing the job. Things you bodge or neglect often come back to bite or kick your ar*e. Don't fall into any of this macho b*ll*cks of how quick others can do anything (often they do a poor job and/or are exaggerating or self-delusional and have no ideal of real time-management or time and motion. Good luck, plenty of chaps here that have lots of knowledge and experience of Felicias (not me) and loads of, sometimes very detailed, information and procedures (including unsuccessful sometimes). ETA: Checking the battery and fully recharging it (ai a low slow rate) with a battery charger and checking the battery terminals connections and main cables and earths are clean, (inside and out) secure and protected, then the fusebox(es), wires and connections are also in good condition and clean. secure and protected takes priority over upgrading the "stereo" and may be needed to successfully do the install and upgrade. Battery in poor state of charge and/or health and non-factory wiring (wiring done by others) are common causes of problems, issues, hassles and headaches with old cars new to the owner. Bear in mind what I put before about things on the car and how they work. Your car might be fine, I've no idea, but I've seen and heard of decades of others that had issues from previous owners (and old factory) electrics. With this car don't try to run when you've possibly not even started to crawl yet. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. Diagnosing means checking rather than assuming. There will be many posts and threads on this topic in the various forums that you could look at and/or ask in - or there's a member that specialises in this - or there will be videos on YouTube (generally HatBoyHarvey does good videos on Mk1 Fabia). Breezy_Pete offers advice (and might even see your thread here) in the Fabia Mk1 forum and others and does repairs, see. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/ 'Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk1-1999-2007/ HatBoyHarvey Mk1 vids. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLlGs3AwP43wSEE9A3GDQ00netiE1eHyli HTH.

First way to improve and tune the car is the boring old full whole car service, maintenance and repairs and checks. Carry out a 36, 72, 80, thousand mile service and check, do thorough and comprehensive work and checks - not quick skimpy work and checks like many mechanics, garages and auto-electricians do. Things like gearbox oil, coolant changes, power steering fluid are often neglected or ignored and flushing and changing those fluids to clean, fresh modern better fluids can often make noticeable improvements just by doing them (properly and thoroughly for best). (ETA: brake fluid check and change is obviously a priority) Things like HT leads are often forgotten, just because something is fitted to the car it doesn't mean it is fitted properly or well and just because something works doesn't mean it is working well or properly or not past, or well passed, it's optimum or best. Fitting a cone engine air filter may give a raspy sound but so can a defective exhaust. 😁 You already seem to have made a rookie mistake, you don't want to "upgrade" or "improve" by changing parts until you have thoroughly driven the car and carried out the long term service, maintenance and repairs and checks to know what actually needs doing on the car and what you like or don't like and what you get used to or not. If you are replacing a part in a service, maintenance or repairs then at that point you could consider fitting a better part. Cosmetic work as much as possible wants putting off until you have driven and used the car through say four weather seasons of a year. Spending money on "upgrades" and "improvements" may take away money and resources from work that actually needs doing or unexpected expenses - and many "upgrades" and "improvements" turn out not to be so, I've been there many times, eventually I learnt. There's at least one long thread on engine air filters - but putting any filter on a car that's not been fully serviced, maintained and repaired could be a complete waste of time and money and after it has been fully serviced, maintained and repaired it might be found unnecessary or worse still actually stifle performance. You want to take regard of the car as a whole for improvements particularly in performance. The important things are brakes, steering and suspension, all three include the tyres, next is safety electrics lights, wipers, horn and windows, mirrors and reflective number plates - see and be seen. Engine and transmission are pretty near the bottom of the list. You can learn and save yourself lots of time hassle and money by my mistakes, I've spent 10 of thousands of pounds on old cars, but most us have to learn by our own mistakes when we are younger, very often only age and experience teaches us it's better to learn from the mistakes of others. Don't think that a low cost car will necessarily be low cost to restore and improve, it might be but it all depends on original condition and how far you want to go with it. Many shiny show cars or modified/customised cars can look great but run badger's ar*e rough and more used looking cars run very well. Good luck. As well as this forum you could also look in 'Classic Skoda Guides' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/178-classic-skoda-guides/ And once you have a good foundation to work up from after all I've put above if you still need or want to you could look for ideas in 'Classic SKODA Projects' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/ HTH.

Not as easy on a Mk4 RHD as a Mk3 RHD but hopefully not difficult or too awkward.

@Carlston may have this sort of info about suppliers, will certainly have lots of info on wheels and tyres. (ETA: recommending a supplier might be a different matter though) What model and year of VWŠskoda do you have?