Former

I'm putting more travel on this car than the owner, sorry. I saw 2006 in Triff's name plate looked at his posting history and saw Mk2 forum (until this thread, in Mk3 forum at the time) then went to give Triff a link to HatBoyHarvey vids where I noticed it had Mk2 2007-2014 so wondered if 2006 was a typo for 2016 or if possibly a Mk1 even - confused you soon will be, anyone remember Soap, Billy Crystal). Some members can have wiring diagrams available based on VIN and are good at reading them and electrics generally. Alternator and battery are like a couple if one is suffering then the other will be too to some extent and at some point and they can cause each other's breakdown, particularly not wanted at this time of year, and week.

ETA: @ColinD - sorry, perhaps not yet, perhaps a check of NJ or 5J just to be sure. My wife's car appeared to be made in April 2015 but was with dealer (or registered anyway until 30th September 2015. Perhaps this car was swapped at birth. 😁 @Triff Child would be easy, this is my owner, sometimes administers the keyboard, which can often improve what I've put. I could have steered all wrong and yours is a MK3, it'll have NJ in the VIN if it's a MK3 and 5J in the VIN if a Mk2 (had to check on that Wiki page and the VIN for my wife's early Mk3). Battery and washer is a funny one, presumably as you've checked the battery connections you have checked the connections are tight and checked the state of charge of the battery, low battery charge can upset the computers and get them to throw up all sorts of odd things. There could be two separate issues or one thing causing or common to both. Washer light could be sensor, (another thread had about Rain-X possibly causing issue, no idea if that's correct or possible), wiring, connections. Battery light is actually generator, alternator, this shouldn't be on when the engine is running so there is a fault there (another reason to check the state of charge in the battery before low battery charge causes more issues or stop the engine from starting or running. If you have access to a wiring diagram and/or a suitable scan tool they would help but you still need to look at the wiring and connections physically anyway.

@Triff ( @ColinD ) It might be me that's embarrassed as saw Triff's previous posts were in the Mk2 forum and forgot to check the range of years I've just noticed you've put your car as 2006 so a Mk1 if that's the case, or if 2006 is a typo and you mean 2016 then it's a Mk3 but I didn't recognise your dash photo. Years of experience yes, but on my part failing memory, befuddled mind and incompetence should never be underestimated for me (plus pestering animal that is convinced it's fed time before it is). @Triff photos on Wiki of the different mark body shapes. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia Now it is time for feeding, got to be strict.

Reported to move to Mk2 forum, you could also look in there for any threads and posts on this.

Another thought - you have put the cabin heater on warmest setting to get the coolant going around the heater matrix? And once you have got the coolant system full do remember to check for coolant leaks on the work you have done and to check the coolant level (when fully cold) for the next few days and using the car (heat and run cycles) to establish its unusual fill level. This time of year particularly being a little below 'Max' is no concern. And VW in their infinite wisdom(?) are now on 12eve coolant (after 13 obviously) bur either number will do, though best practice not to mix brands and numbers if you can.

One example video of one funnel filler (n spills) kit. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDor5icXxlE&t=1s HTH.

Hi, welcome. Yes you are supposed to refill under some sort of pressure but if you have the nerve and aren't careless you can carry on - or later refill with pressure/charge tool/kit or other more basic filler funnel kit. You need to start the engine get it running and warmed up, the thermostat needs to open top ups are required. You may need to put the cap back on and go for a very short driver around the block once or a few times, but always check the level in the tank and top it up. You may get coolant temp gauge needle up and near or on the red, obviously don't over do that but needle up there means the coolant is hot or very hot not necessarily engine overheating unless it actually is. Now obviously take care, take this advice on the understanding that's it's your car and your responsibility what you do and what the consequences are from your actions, I've got away with doing what I've put but not with your car and I'm not you or you me. I'll see if I can remember what the over fillers are called and find an example for you in the meantime, you already know about charge/pressure-of-some-sort-tools/kits.

Hi, welcome. You might be better looking in and/or asking in the 'Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)' forum as there may be more specific details and advice, plus more traffic. HTH. 'Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk3-2015-2023/

My wife's 2015 is the same as AGFalco has put. Try reversing closer, square on, to a wide wall or something to check the four zones light up. Just using the reversing sensors to reverse isn't a good idea, I can guarantee you that from experience of such stupidity.

Hi, welcome. Sorry, I don't know the engine or details but others will, I could guess but that it's a good way of doing things. It might help if you can give the engine code (usually three or four letters) in case there are any common leaks and if you are able to take a photo and post it up (landscape is usually best as more info in frame) with an arrow to area of leak. Do be certain of the origin of the leak. I don't think there's too much to removing the fan but I could be wrong and you want to check what is required to sort your issues first. One thing I can say is no doubt you'll want to flush, clean and refill the system, at each fill it should be done under some sort of pressure, you can get away without but car more careful bleeding will be required each time. Also VW in their great(?) wisdom are now on to coolant 12evo (from 13, of course) but either will do. HTH a little. Good luck.

Also remember the tyres are a very important component of the braking system (and steering and suspension systems) so good quality appropriate tyres in good condition and inflation will perform better than tyres that are old and worn or gone hard from lack of regular use. Also the condition of the brake fluid needs to be considered especially under arduous use.

@Sindbad56 Phil, thanks for reporting back. Once again checking the very (boring, unsexy) basics has beat the sexy big-boys toys of the likes of scan tools. Recently I checked a neighbour's wireless door bell that wasn't working and sure enough the button battery in the push button end was brand new Duracell (2025) and when I took it out to check its voltage I found the cause of the problem, the baby secure sticker on the blind side of the battery was still there just at the point of the negative contact of the push button. A bit of info for you, 2025 means 20mm diameter and 2.5mm thickness, so 2032 is 20mm diameter and 3.2mm thick.

So you have a CFG code engine. You could look and see if the belt cover is VW fantastic-plastic or metal, plastic for rubber belt. Or enter your VIN in a few car parts sites and see if they give the same part (never trust only one source of info (even manufacturers errors and omissions are in all databases, even well before AI's help). This kit is from a USA site (don't expect USA prices for this lot as a kit in the UK), I've not confirmed this is correct, you should - "It is compatible with your Skoda SuperB 2010 - 2014 model vehicles with 1.6 TDI (CAYB-CAYC) 2.0 TDI (CFF-CFG) engines. The set includes timing belt, timing balls and water pump. Gates brand; It produces for...". - https://autopartshall.com/products/skoda-superb-1-6-2-0-tdi-timing-set-with-circulation-gates-brand?srsltid=AfmBOooHUcUSPabEiKW8-PmehFxZoUzmpMndng1ZTbcZrwI7Lhhu3jKg Time for my tea/dinner, depending on where you was brought up, were brought, brung up or dragged up.

What's the engine code of your car? Belts still need checking, and other things related can need replacing but in general in Europe they weren't changing at 5 years like in the UK, same engines.

Either email back to them the screenshot Ootohere has put up or tell the receptionist her computer is out of date - you could also ask them how many others they've conned in this way or take the email to something like Trading Standards or whatever the equivalent is. This boils my blood as we were ripped off when my wife's Fabia was 5 years old, just the UK doing it, if we were in USA we'd all be on to VW and get our money back. I've attached a pdf of the 1st July 2023 change, that's 18 months ago more than enough time to up date all paperwork and computers. Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf

You do more than many car owners so don't worry about being a bit late with just the most recent engine oil and filter change as having the oil level in the 'A section' is fine and things with the car might not be as bad as you think or even possibly no where near as bad. If, and that is if, the engine has a fault then that is on VW and the longevity of these engines isn't fully helped by all of the dictates of VW. Once sorted and if you want to stick with this car and engine for a long time advice and suggestions can be given to help it perhaps last longer than VW care about.

@mark_irl just some general advice, not moaning at you, engine oil changes are based on time as well as milage and particularly for a car that is used for mostly short journeys and/or more arduous or in hotter or cold climates annually is really the maximum time limit you should go for. Also whilst the oil being in the A section is fine better to top it up to 'max' or just below than leave it until it drops below the 'A section'. Unless your driving conditions are normally quite/very bad or other cause then the lateness of this engine oil and filter change would not have caused any of the suggested issues, nor of course the oil level being in the 'A section'. There is hope as to be fair to your first mechanic he did say he couldn't be sure without properly looking at it (but he could have had a better beside manner) and you have being driving the car around. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

More info required as it could be so many things, other codes, service and maintenance history just two that come to mind. A car that is used infrequently can present with problems from that, is it parked in a heated and dehumidified garage or parked on a dirty industrial works car park or more likely something in between. Any other presentations. Has anything been done on the car before the light came on first time, or driver (or other) maintenance checks or work.

I can't think of the oil warning light coming on briefly with ignition but car isn't with me now to confirm - still a very good practice to get into to check (those that should) do light up, you then do notice if one is missing or remains on, or another warning light comes on after ignition, more by the pattern as they go out so quick.

Light on is expected so helps with code being correct. No don't close this thread someone different might see it and able to give you advice. Not necessarily with this but sometimes some scan tools take a few attempts to keep a code clear and lights out with a bit of driving also required and/or ignition on/off, say three times of ignition off back on and scan tool to delete code a few miles of driving. Unlikely with a 2020 car but a basic code reader clearer might need more attempts. Good luck.

Hi, welcome, Sorry I don't know whether that VW connection is as it should be, many VW connections are weird and not so wonderful to me. Some things I think I know, you want your scan tool appropriate for VWs and its program for your model and year (or VIN) and that program to be fully up to date before you use the scan tool, also that the car battery and if appropriate scan tool battery are in a reasonable state of charge and health otherwise false reports might be given. If you have not already done so then looking in and/or asking in the Karoq forum(s) might give you more information and replies (see below), I see what I think is oil drips on the "beauty cover" if you have recently removed the oil filler cap check that none of the crud has got on to the bottom of the oil cap or oil filler neck so preventing a good seal of the cap, if so clean all off to get good seal again. Do you also have an engine light on. Loads of information and videos on the internet on this code and diagnosis, such as a good example, Ross Tech,18711/P2279/008825 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18711/P2279/008825 Škoda Karoq forums - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ HTH.

One thing you can easily check without starting the engine is the current oil level on the dipstick, if it's not too low and you haven't topped it up previously then it's unlikely to have been too low since the last engine oil and filter (you'd hope and they should have mentioned to you if the oil level was too low before the "service"). 57,000km isn't a very low mileage so annual engine oil and filter changes should have been sufficient under normal circumstances. For the warning lights have a look in your 'Owner's Manual' for the car, if you no longer have the very useful paper printed copy you can get a free VWŠkoda pdf copy from their website. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

Sorry to confuse you, I meant the fuseboard relay more as an example, I don't think the engine bay fusebox would cover the doors anyway. I think there have been problems with hatch locking but can't remember causes or results, search would turn these threads and posts up. For bi-directional scan tools there are various systems and prices, all will have pros and cons. A few earlier MK3 Fabias have had rust and water around the switch area but not seen it reported here for later models. If the boot is opening in warmer weather you could leave your investigations until it turns cold again giving you more time for research into the matter, unless the problem also happens in the warmer weather. .

That person has not visited the site since 5 March 2017 so might not see your post. Here are three parts numbers you could research, always treble check the parts as suppliers (and manufacturers) databases, websites and photos have errors and omissions. 6U0 819 263 097 916 018 F 6U0 959 623 HTH.

Hi, welcome. Your thread title has 2019 but name plate 2020, only reason I put this is if I remember correctly I have seen threads and posts about 2019 Fabias with, if I remember correctly, starting issues when cold because of a poor quality electric relay that is part of the fuseboard and some manufacturer's had build and part supply and quality issues during 2020 covid. Your problem may be nothing to do with either above. To test you would need to replicate or test at -2c or less. I don't know about jumper but a multimeter test for live and return at -2c or less at the button or perhaps activate with a suitable bi-directional scan tool. Perhaps the cold affects something with a wire or connection, where the trunking to get the wiring from car body to hatch door is a usual place for frayed wire(s) and issues. HTH.