nta16

Jumping in I am being a bit unkind to 0W-20, a good 0W-20 will be a very good oil, that particular multigrade has little to do with GPF as the other multigrades mentioned cover GPFs too, ETA: if you're not keeping the car long term stick with 0w-20 and if using a very good 0w-20 you could probably stick with that for the car's life as that multigrade will also improve with time and availability as markets catch up and new higher levels become the norm. A good oil is a good oil, and a better oil is a better oil, it's a matter of getting what's appropriate. The 0w-20 oils (and well below this have to be good) the 0w-20 is to help get the nth fraction more mpg out of the very ancient basic internal combustion engine. As always the better build and quality the engine is the greater its parameters to use and abuse, personally I think VW have been and are a bit rough which is mostly fine in the short and medium term but less so longer and much longer term. If you're interested have a look at 0w-8 that a Japanese engine can take and it will give you an idea of VW's engine 0w-20 oil (and 0w-12). - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sALAUhldASc

Sorry that attachment doesn't open for me, so more questions and info from you required.. Dash messages can come and go so quickly you don't always get a chance to see them, often a PITA distract from keeping your eyes on the road and driving. If you don't see any panic (sorry) warning lights or messages then perhaps plugging in an appropriate VW enabled correct level scan tool might see a record of the incidents. The ogres that are the computers can be quite timid and nervous and over sensitive, look at them wrong and they whimper, a bush that's 20 foot away at the side of the road frightens them or what it thinks is a white line or something in the middle or side of the road. When you say accelerating hard what do you mean, from what initial speed, in what gear, on what surface? Does this happen on the same place on a road or whenever you accelerate hard? Are you in Eco drive setting? What's your engine and gearbox type? I expect you have one of those bloody silly annoying (whoops) electronic handbrakes and not the very old fashioned (reliable) mechanical types? You've checked your tyre pressures (preferably with a reliable accurate (off-board) tyre pressure gauge? Tailgate fully shut? Checked all car stalks or menu settings? There are so many more things to go bleep, bong or chime on a 2022 car, I'm out of ideas.

Are you wheel-spinning? Check all your car stalks or menu settings, otherwise. -

My gawd, whoever allowed that sticker on a VAG product is for the sack, giving away the multigrade suggested, what a slip up ! Based on the quality of VW engines and not worrying about the stretched mpg claims needing such stuff I'd still go 5w-30, 0W-30 if buying a step up in price quality. I've corrected my previous post based on the better info from Ootohere's post, I would definitely want good or better quality oils at 0w-20, no "cheap" stuff.

I don't know how the prices go but near fits are 205/45 r16 - 195/50 r16 - 225/45 r16 - 205/50 r16. The near widths of the tyre make very little if any odds to road grip that's all about the tyre's design, make up and compounds. Narrower tyres on 7" width rims will sit squarer and add stiffness to the tyre walls. As also better made tyres will will be better overall regardless of their size. You can check out the differences to 215/45 r16 on the following sites for yourself. Personally I'd have 15" wheels (if 14" wouldn't fit) and have more tyre sidewall, air and 'rubber' (pneumatic) suspension on the wheels, and slightly better feel to initial pick up of acceleration (what very little sensation you can get from modern cars that isolate the driver from what's going on with the car). https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Fan in front of rad blows, behind sucks. Depends on your wiring but fit as large as you can to the radiator. You can get slimline fans that give a bit more space. Only as an example Comex (Revotec) 11" (high power) fan to give you ideas of air movement and electric power requirements. - https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/files/transfer/technical/doc/comex_high_power_11_inch_specification_2.pdf And Comex Slimline 11" - https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/files/transfer/technical/doc/comex_11_inch_specification.pdf

No. Big difference in sidewall height from (nominally) 3.8" ( 97 mm) to 4.7" (119 mm), 23.7% increase. Your speedo will under-read (not good for your licence), you'll lose some suspension wheel to wheel arch space, OK if you don't get into too much mud or snow and your suspension isn't to soft and sagged, slight gain on ride height.

Let VW confuse you with their additional specification numbers. - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-services/servicing-and-parts/spare-parts-and-oil/oil.html Then perhaps consider a good quality oil from an English blender that covers the range of additional VW numbers. - Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w30 - ETA: based on Ootohere's later info change to Millers XF PREMIUM ENGINE OIL C5 VW 0w20 (and better as the oils get greater availability) - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-162388-millers-oils-xf-premium-c5-vw-0w-20-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx As you can tell I'm not a VW fan or of their, ever changing, additional numbers or not specifying weight/grade range of oil or silly 9,400m/1yr or flexible (20k-m(?)) oil changes, change at 10k-miles or 1 year whichever is the soonest and use a good quality oil. I'm sure others will be along here soon with official VW engine oil dictates. Good luck.

What exactly do you mean by that because that sounds different to your previous post. Do you mean when you operate the stalk to activate the windscreen washer it doesn't work but when you operate for the rear window the washer does work, two different operations? Below is from my wife's 2015 Owner's Manual. -

We all do such things, me all the time. At least you can admit it to yourself and others, many simply can't.

Yes I remember that and the following post, I'm not the one putting up those videos and I've put my comments a few times before and after that video. The high and low temperature point of the various coolants tested are only two points of measure are we are not told that the coolants are at equal concentrations and it doesn't tell us about their various levels of corrosion protection and lubrication. All have service lives that are shorter than VW labelled G12evo at least. You want the whole cooling/heating system clean inside and out, all parts and components working as they should, no additional hinderance from misplaced additional items or inappropriate insulation.

You can remove the battery for charging if needed/wanted but it'd only be a slight gain on how long the battery charger takes to get the battery to full, still best to have a low amps long slow recharge. If it's an older battery and you can take the six caps off then do check the electrolyte ("water") level in each cell and id you can see of any plates look cover or bent, usually the end cell. If it's a completely sealed battery (some say they are when they're not) don't take any notice of the "magic eye" ball rely on the charger to tell you when it gets to full. For a 2020 Octavia, below from the 2020 Owner's Manual, reading the Owner's Manual and referring to it when required can save you a lot of time, hassle and money with visits to Dealers, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. ETA: link to VWSkoda Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Whatever it is that senses and transmit the temperature, possibly "sender" (of the information but it also has to detect the temperature), if it's an electric anologue gauge I guess the sender-transmitter is also electric but you might tell me differently. Unless I misunderstood Thefeliciahacker put the factory ones are not sensors (or called sensors?).

In the video some good points, some points that might be disputed and not enough information to gather how accurate the comparisons were., we are not told if the various coolants were claimed to be the same. VW (stand up and salute) own labelled G12evo coolants in my experience at least are available at two different freezing point levels, have different VW parts numbers so are different and therefore should give different results to each in those test but both are VW own label G12eveo so it depends which one (r both) you put into those comparisons. Depending on how the coolants are manufactured and by who actually there might even possibly be small variances in batches (but I don't know that for sure or at all). As always there are compromises and more to it than those simple tests, basically you don't need worry about -25c but do want your car to warm up to operating temperature as quickly as reasonably possible and not too much over for too long.

On older models there a clip thing (forget the proper name) on the negative terminal of the battery terminal clamp connection which you can disconnect (unplug) and that's the start/stop system disconnected. The car still operates fully and it might extend the battery use and life. With a 2023/4 car I've no idea if this system is so integral to the running of the car that it can't be disconnected. In which case I'd expected there not to be connector at the negative terminal clamp but if there is one try disconnecting it, I can't se how you can do anything wrong as the computers would take over and not let you start or drive the car or put up all sorts of warnings and lights at least to tell you off. Have a look, try if you can and let us know or put up a landscape photo of the battery negative terminal on here.

No and no. Age doesn't matter like use, abuse and neglect. If you wait until something misbehaves that is already passed the better point of fuller recovery and better and long service life of the battery. By the time you get a low battery warning message the start-stop will have made itself unavailable for use one or many more times, worst still the computers don't like low batteries and can show this by causing unexpected issues (and unseen error counts) before putting up any messages and lights to the driver. This is when the engine still starts normally and the lights seem bright enough. Best that the battery is recharged before this but certainly at this point for better and longer service life of the battery. The recharge might be a good run with less electric items used on the car or to use an appropriate charger maintainer having read and followed the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger' instructions. When you get to the point where the engine is difficult to start on a modern car you have possibly/probably taken the battery beyond where it can fully recover from this and may have shortened its service life. For many a few, as required, preventative recharges by using using an appropriate charger maintainer, having read and followed the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger' instructions will prevent the premature and unnecessary change of expensive battery and prolonger and better its service and life. But for those that prefer to change the battery that's fine, helps the economy and companies profits at least, I've changed batteries before just out of convenience (and being lazy in my case and loathing working on my own cars). It's a bit like filling the fuel tank before you run so low you have run around looking for fuel or running out - I've done that a few times but never with more recent modern cars, they might not like that. 😄

I might have bettered that with my last car had I not changed the battery for my convenience (being lazy and loathing to do anymore work on my car even charging the battery). But my last car had very little electric stuff on it from new, previous model didn't even have a boot or interior light and was dynamo not alternator. As I've probably (I might be wrong) had more ****-poorly, abysmally, poor, not correct out of the box car parts than all the rest of the posters here put together by my 30+ years of running various "classics" (old over-priced and over valued) cars as "dallies" I can say I think that for decades car batteries have been excellent and long lasting given the changing circumstances but now unless some/many owner/drivers revert back to using (appropriate) charger maintainers the car manufacturers like VW will their way with changing the battery (most times prematurely or unnecessarily) at first 5 years or less. The car 12v battery has been the/one of most oversold car part for many years, if not decades now. A van that is 17 or more years old generally will have nowhere near the potential electric loading use that a 2021, let alone 2023/4 car has, plus the van generally has a bigger studier battery and is used a lot more frequently giving the battery what it is designed for, cyclical (not sure that's the word I mean) use, many would not know or understand have very little some cars are actually driven. The car for some is no more than a portable entertainment, information, communication device and in the future a portable storage of electric energy to be taken or used elsewhere for other than transport or 'infotainment.' For those with more interest about car batteries in more modern VW and others cars, but there is plenty more and better info on here and elsewhere than the below examples. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499006-car-battery-now-is-the-time-to-check-it https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year

So different location and relies on accuracy of of gauge and sensor/pick-up/wotsit/thingy and their pairing matching? The car's original gauge is good enough for everyday general use but for your more precise testing and comparisons you need to stick with whichever is the most accurate measure and allow for it accuracy and precision.

Yes it should but a battery is only a store so it depends on its use, abuse and neglect by the car and owner/driver, it's very rare nowadays that a battery is faulty, the of likes VW car manufacturer's computing programs or parts being faulty is another matter. Batteries may be changed just to keep the customer happy as many don't understand and put the car battery at fault when it is not, even when the battery is new. The make of the battery and its three letter VW code is totally unimportant that was for VW's benefit the car and the computer program couldn't really care less, your friend could have just left it the same as it was. On my wife's car we changed to "BOSCH" which isn't even three letters. The serial number you want to change but you only need to change one digit, my wife's, and others have reported the same on here, was from factory 1111111111 (ten lots of 1) and it was changed to 1111111112 the same as on many other VW cars that got a battery change. See below from when a Briskoda member 'coded' the battery for me (on his OBDEleven). The type of battery, EFB or AGM (which of course VW call "fleece"), the Ah rate (or close enough) and change of "serial number" are the important changes for 'coding'. If you have the new battery and you or car haven't depleted its store you shouldn't need to give it a good before going away for 10 days but check your Owner's Manual for advice. If you want or need to go for a good run then that's fine but if during that run you take out from the battery, by using lots of electric consumers on the car more than you put back in then obviously there will be less in the battery whilst the car sits for 10 days. Think of it like your bank account whilst you are away and spending. Personally unless I had, or wanted, to go for a good run in the car I'd save fuel and if possible just connect up an appropriate battery charger maintainer whilst I was away to return to the car with a full battery rather than 10 days depleted, having used a very , very little home electric and easiest work on the car whilst away from it. I like any work on the car that keeps my hands clean and I have the very least to do as possible and battery charging is so easy (with the appropriate charger maintainer reading and following the car's Owner's Manual and chargers instructions). I am at this very moment ,whilst one finger typing this, charging a neighbour's 2021 car battery that is sat 10 doors away down the street, I am warm from it (though it might be the sausage sandwiches and mug of (singular so far) tea, this is the only sensible way to work on cars!!

Give the whole belt a good visual check. Bear in mind things like tensioners and pullies can have issues or need replacement, see rum4mo's post of 21 April, 2021 and - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485097-cambelt-change/page/2/#comment-5567999 IITC 23 July(?) last year VWSkoda for UK finally came in line with Europe and admitted to the the belt change at 15yrs/150k- miles(?) (180K-miles?) the info is no here several times some posts/threads. Too late for the robbing bastards not to have £429 off of us, I wished I'd researched the subject more then, such is lif. ETA: this is the Fabia Mk3 forum if that makes any odds to your particular engine set up.

Depends what car it was. Yours was a great fun car and practical too. We had the Estelles in the mid-1980s to earlier 90s when The Sun reading sheep were taught to take the **** out of them, heard some good jokes then though. Which is why the following always amused , I used to send it to the Porsche owners I knew, luckily most of them weren't the stereotype owners you used to, and still do, get but this was when they only made sportscars. (good for Golf owners too of course). 😁 -

90C on the dial - I forget, have you established how accurate that dial reading is, have you another gauge in your car or off-board, perhaps digital readout, of the same point of source for the dial reading to confirm that reading the dial shows?

If your surfaces are all good then you only need a paper gasket and in theory you should only ever need a paper gasket, but in the real world of old cars after 30+ years of actually driving old cars as they were intended as "dailies", work, commuting to work (300 & 500 miles for many months as well), holidays and club events in UK and parts of Europe - sometimes a sealant is required. I would always try 'paper' gasket only where I could but it didn't always work. And I too have very occasionally made my own paper gaskets, it's easy, a small ball pein hammer to carefully mark out the shape and cut out the holes in the gasket paper, then cut and tidy up with scissors as required, or use a hole punch where you can if you have them. The best of the few sealants I have used for coolant was Hylomar Hylotyte Red 100, which as far as I can see is still available, and better for coolant than their Universal Blue. https://hylomar.com/en/hylotyte-red-100/

As well as Kenlowe you could look at the Revotec fans and fixings but they are expensive and the switch relays, when I had them at least, not as good as they should be but you could buy the fan and make your own fixing and wiring, or use what's on the car perhaps(?). T here used to be people that worked there that you could actually talk to over the phone (or at shows) about 5 years ago but I've no idea now.