nta16

It is an option, you might not want to do it and doing it may not give you what you want anyway or improve things. This you might want to do but it may not give you what you want anyway or improve things. But it's your car so you will as always do as you want. You've seen the videos and the ratios you decide, if I was doing the work for you I would insist you decide and take full responsibility as whatever is decided as the measurement it may not give you what you want anyway or improve things and I would not offer myself as a scapegoat for this. You can mock something up or draw something on paper or perhaps get an engineer or someone to do the maths if you don't want to, but until the work is actually done and installed on your car with you driving it the result and if it's acceptable is unknown, to you at least, you've had a couple of opinions but they're not proof.

For now. 😄

The Germans love their own numbers and specifications, then they change their minds and/or have to update things, like their engine oil numbers 5** **, and their coolant numbers - G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13 and then guess what . . . G14?, G13+? no, G12evo ! 🫠 You can do your own research, wait for more replies, contact VW, see below and accept it or find the reason and report it back here. Good luck. "Brand new Genuine Audi/SEAT/Skoda/VW Adblue. This is a (10L) 10 Litre Container Part Number: G052910M4 Replaces G052910A4" - https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/seat-shop/genuine-seat-adblue-diesel-exhaust-fluid-10-litres/

Whether it's correct or not I don't know Auto-Doc has - SKODA Felicia I Estate (6U5) 1.6 75 hp Petrol AEE "Recommended part replacement interval for your car for the part category Timing belt kit: at 90.000 km (54000 mi) , then every 30.000 km (18000 mi) / at 90.000 km (54000 mi) , then every 30.000 km (18000 mi)". - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/timing-belt-set-10505/skoda/felicia/felicia-i-estate-6u5/5259-1-6?categories[]=307 Crasher - "The interval on the AEE 1.6 8v engine used to be based purely on a visual inspection of condition but now it is accepted that the interval is 60K miles or 5 years. On these engines it is not usually the belt that fails but rather the lower plastic tensioner. The water pump should also always be changed and a timing belt kit used. These are very easy belts to do and the job should take a professional no more than 3 hours." - https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/cambelt-or-chain.3518/ Continental Industry - Timing belt replacement interval - "GOLF III - 1.4 / 1.6 - 10/91-08/97 - ABD, AEE" 2014 sheet, no interval given. - https://www.continental-industry.com/getmedia/8dfb65b2-a3c9-43b0-a007-3faabfffbaee/PTG8625-DeEnEs-Timing-belt-replacement-intervals.pdf So perhaps that bears out what Crasher put and it's not the belt (depending on its quality) but the lower plastic tensioner. You could check with the supplier or manufacturer of the last belt you fitted but it may only apply to the belt unless it was a kit. German engines seem to be a real PITA with regards water pumps, and now tensioners perhaps.

Depending on the quality of the particular oil that sounds a very reasonable or good idea to me, it's not all about particular numbers or ingredients but how well the whole package works, lasts and protects in the engine and use as a whole. Diminishing returns of course but the better the appropriate oil the better the working, protection and longevity.

Perhaps it's just terminology I don't know of but your thread title (here and elsewhere) I thought was about the tailgate door not locking or unlocking I wonder if others might also think that, unless it's a recognised term in tuning nowadays, if it's not you might change the thread title.

Try asking the manufacturers but I would not be surprised if they only say they can recommend using their products as the directions on their packaging and data sheets but it might depend on who you speak to at the companies. Doing it the way you want is diluting the cleaner from what is recommended on the first stage and a very diluted cleaner on second stage and you will still have to flush thoroughly to get everything you can out of the system. Better IMO would be 100% on first stage then thorough flushes and back-flushes until the water coming out is very clean.

Sorry but you have totally missed my point, and I haven't a clue what cook-code dress-behaviour-way of speaking is or what you mean by it, I was not looking down on any peoples from any place rather taking the attitude that you and your fellow Greek present here to me. I have never suggest anyone doesn't know how to drive just that we can all learn to do better, if we want to. You are rather partly proving the stereotype of the macho male ego by getting all upset and defensive at any suggestion that you could improve your driving skills, we have lots of the same here and they will be on sites about cars obviously. You are old enough to know better so you get less latitude than your fellow young Greek (chasing and racing on public roads and putting so on a public forum). If you looked at the link I gave you you would see that the members offer tutoring and assessments so someone like yourself proficient at driving could offer to asses and teach others (after being assessed for such yourself), if you wanted, but that wouldn't mean you could not learn more and improve yourself even at that level. I'm a child of the 1960s and 70s so I have the same male ego and attitudes to some extent but with time passing and age are more able to accept just because I'm a male of a certain age I don't have to let my ego always get the better of me. You can't know how good or bad I am at driving, I tell you without any modesty that I'm not that good, you might be superb but I can't know that. The original idea of suggesting a track instructor or good racer was to suggest smoother driving and gear change as an alternative so you don't need a quickshift which would do very little on your car and then as usual it got expanded out. The potential for slop getting into such a remote rod changing as on your car must be great but to reduce it would introduce transferred vibrations which are not noticed on race cars with all the other noises, plus driver wearing ear plugs and driving helmet but would be on a road car.

Advanced driving is NOT track driving, yes when I was referring to a track instructor or good race driver driving your car I meant as a hypothetical case and on the public roads, not a track, obeying all public driving laws, regulations and codes. Yes a a track instructor or good race driver could teach you smooth driving on a track with them or you driving driving your car but that's not what I meant, I meant you would see how smoothly they driver the car, not snatching or extreme movements in anyway, smooth, swift driving that would feel slower than it actually is because it's so smooth and flowing, anticipation and setting up to get the smoothing flowing swiftness. Advanced driving is about better driving on the public roads not a track, obeying all public driving laws, regulations and codes. Below is an example in the UK, just as an example only, there are other avenues to further driver training for driving on public roads, not track training. Techniques for better driving not racing others or quickest gearshifts (but better) or "balls-out" "ten -tenths" driving. Such training would cover driving public mountain roads and other public roads in road legal vehicles but not for timed runs, though smoother is often quicker, not necessarily fastest or as fast as possible racing is for race tracks whether you are racing someone else or your own times. Unless you are learning driving techniques you don't want to take your own car on a track or track day unless you have money to spare, if it is a hobby or pastime you enjoy fair enough but it will put a lot of additional stress and wear on your car in very short amounts of time, even on very short tracks with relatively low speeds, better to drive a car someone else has to own and look after. Institute of Advanced Motorists, Road Smart - https://www.iamroadsmart.com/about-us/overview

You need the scan tool to be up to date with updates and to be VW and model and year specific to get all functions working as well as the can on the scan tool. ETA: and sometimes as it's a computer stuff (scan tool and car) doing the old "turn it off 'n' on agen" may help with any brain farts one, or both, may be having/had.

Look for the plug in bit on the battery negative terminal clamp for battery monitoring system. Battery manufacturer code is not required, you can leave it as it is or put in something else, doesn't need to be three letter code either in my experience, those things were for VW statistics and warranty issues (clawing money back on their battery contracts no doubt). The car may not even need any 'coding' provided the battery type (EFB or AGN, known as 'fleece' by VW) and Ah rating of the battery is about the same - but any info needs to be right, if the battery is 70 Ah and 7 Ah is keyed in things may not go well (why VW allow such an error to be possible you would have to ask VW). In my view from reading and talking with people, driving the car should sort things but if possible it is best to get the battery 'coded' and to get all error codes deleted both not urgent but as soon as reasonably possible. Below is from a Briskoda member 'coding' the battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia using OBDEleven. -

Well done. Sounds like you have improvements from some sort of ducted air, cold air intake kits sort of thing. It doesn't matter in the least about any whiteboard, blackboard, technical books, bench or lab testing, technical training, education, learning, theory, or intuition, if something works in real world application and use. What works well or badly or in-between on one vehicle may vary on another, if it works on yours it works.

@killie77 FYI, as I had to drive the Fabia today (still can't think what I done wrong to deserve this). 🫠 Same journey as 10c in winter turning early spring (and most weeks of the year twice a week) as below. Today, car hadn't been driven in the previous 24 hours. Car sits outside on the hard (luck) standing 24/7, 365/6 days a year. Last 2 hours at least it had solar gain (sun was out). After driving about 2 miles I decided to look at oil temp, at the time the car showed outside temperature as 20c which would be about correct, oil temp at this point 52c. Same journey and route as previously, only a couple extra very brief stops at roadworks sets of traffic lights and having the start/stop active at the extra stops. . At about 8 miles (where previously at about 93-5c) it was 87c, getting to 90c at about 9 miles, and only getting to 92c at, and just before journey's end, about 10 miles. So only really just getting the oil warm enough for a very short while before the journey is over. Unexpected figures given what I put at the start of this thread but there's no telling how the computers will behave at any given time and perhaps I was going faster and/or accelerating faster on the other same journeys I noted the oil temp, but none were done accelerating hard or fast, no overtaking just keeping with traffic and all within speed limits and below. Same oil as last service (Sept '23) no changes to car, load or driving.

You totally misunderstand. Limits do NOT always mean the very upper limits possible, the very maximum available before the engine, gearbox or driver explodes. The limit might be at 1 mph, 5, 10, 15 20, etc., low revs, not the maximum before the engine explodes, the car's handling on the road not the knife edge just before, or after, you slide, spin or fall into the scenery. It's about being able, when appropriate, driving WITHIIN the limits, and not beyond those limits, of the road, the vehicle and driver at the moment and very near future, WITHIN the limits, and not beyond, of the conditions at the time NOT the very maximum at optimum circumstances that may be available at optimum times. It doesn't have to be with a track instructor or good race driver, those were just examples of those that know how to drive smoothly to get to the available limits and not go beyond them which might be at 1 mph, 5, 10, 15 20, etc, and very low revs, with restricted movement of the vehicle on the road. NOT racing other drivers on a public road. If everyone every male in Greece has the attitude and thinking pattern of yourself and Thefeliciahacker then I very much doubt you have anything like Advanced Drivers club(s) in Greece. 😆 These are NOT about racing but more advanced road craft on public roads in the real world not closed tracks for those with excesses in money and/or egos. Just to be clear, I am not a member of such a club or passed any assessment to be in one or instruct others. As I have put before I am NOT a good driver. I may be above average (or fooling myself that I might be) but that would only be because the average might be so low. I am not throwing the first stone as I have lived in glass houses but if nothing else old age has given me some experience that I have learnt from, when I remember. 🫠

You put you were going somewhere else on holiday in the mountains, I wasn't thinking of you doing anything at the roadside on a busy road, as I put I would not fart about doing any work on a car in such circumstances so would not you suggest anyone else should. Just to make it clear again, I would not fart about doing any work doing anything at the roadside on a busy road, if you choose or think you have to that is your concern.

Sorry I didn't mean for you to take things so literally, I should have put if you had track instructor or good racer in your car you would see he or she would go quicker within the limits of the vehicle just by their knowledge, experience and practice - not that you need to go to the lengths you say. If you adopted the same smooth driving techniques which can also be picked up by others that are NOT track instructors or good racers. I don't know Greece, do you not have any advanced (road) driving clubs or is it you take a test(?) then once passed you know everything needed to drive how you like on the public roads no need to ever learn more (there are plenty like that in the UK (mostly men)). Track instructors and good racers do not only live their lives at tracks they are allowed off track. Learning on a track is good for a start but track stuff isn't the same, on the roads vehicles also travel in the other directions and there is a vast range of different vehicles with a very wide range of driving skills, these are a LOT more limited parameters on a track. Many years ago there was a report that rally drivers made the same amount of insurance claims for their road driving insurance as the ordinary Joe, possibly they took more chances or they drive a lot and others were hitting the rally drivers' cars because of this, probably younger male rally drivers.

So what - it takes as long as it takes, you are not paying for your own labour (with money at least) and hopefully if you do a good thorough job and keep proper maintenance of the system you will only do it once. At the same time you can clean, lubricate and replace other associated parts at the same time. As I live in England where you can sometimes get four seasons in a day I wait for three consultative sunny dry days to a full whole system thorough clean that will involve water and being outside, this also (hopefully) allows for any unexpected that might turn up and for anytime(s) I can't be arsed to faff around with a car. If I get the job done in a morning/afternoon/day or less than three days, which I should, then great. I never worry about how quickly anyone else can do this work, or any other car work, particularly paid professionals that wouldn't do such a thorough job and possibly not even a good job, possibly breaking something else and not telling you about it, and I don't work to the highest standards on a car they're not important enough.

A bit contradictory to having a quickshift then, or perhaps increases the need. Old 8v engine, use the torque and/or momentum and just use normal lever and gear changing, drive within the limits of the vehicle, anticipate and drive smoothly and a good rate of progress can be maintained. Get a track instructor or good racer in your car and he or she would go quicker within the limits of the vehicle just by their knowledge, experience and practice and often they can be short in height so their sightlines are less.

That's well put, the point I've have meant but failed to put, it's not just downshifts, it's the changes. Just as an example only, my modified Ford Type 9 gear lever against a standard type one, with the rally sport type clutch hydraulics and the modified shorter lever it made no difference to how quickly I was actually able to change gear successfully (that was not the intention of the shortening, straightening and retaining of the insulator). ETA: also shown is the red hardened saddle clip that made changes slicker that the standard black plastic Ford offering that would wear quickly and give a certain amount of sloppiness that wasn't of issue in a worn gearbox in a very old family saloon rarely used "classic" but more noticeable in a light two-seater actually driven.

Seems suited to your wants and needs. The following video was on my YT Homepage and is just a good example, it obviously isn't specific to a Felicia but as I commented, to me, is a very good video, well explained and presented and covers checks and further checks many forget or forget to include in a video. Yes it does include that kit but other stuff can be used and it's the principles that matter rather specifics. -

That would be the assumption but it is not stated as with the "non Pro" ratio and I put the post for a reason that may or may not have escaped your linear engineering thinking, there's more to navigating interactions with people than the very straight forward engineering way which hopefully you will learn when you're interactive with more people and you experience more of life. Now prove your assumption, as you would have to in class and work. 😁 ETA: if you want to of course, you are young so I mustn't, can't and wouldn't force you to, in a work situation it would be an entirely different matter, reactions and obligations different, a lot of fun might be had or taken at your expense. 😉 😄 But this is just the internet. 😆

Yes that's how I see or as I "Pro" for owners who has a few or fleet of vehicles, ordinary families can have a small fleet of vehicles. But then look at the quantities again, "Pro" does 50 litres of coolant with 1 litre, yet "non-Pro" does 10 litres of coolant with 330 ml, unless I am missing something the figures don't add up unless there is a mistake or missing information. Just like VW and their numbers nothing is straight forward.

Liqui Moly isn't as popular over here. One is for more regular, greater use by someone like a professional or someone with a collection of vehicles, as lots of owners may have. I think, don't know as I've not looked, they are both the same just packaged differently, have a look at the marketing sheets. contact the manufacturer., see below for what might need explanation. "Pro" 1 l is sufficient for up to 50 l of coolant "not pro" 300 ml is sufficient for 10 l of coolant (dosage 1:33). compatible with all conventional coolant additives and antifreezes (with the exception of “low conductivity” coolants)

Yes true, so see answer one. If something has only happened once in 24 years because you were distracted you have hopefully learnt your lesson and won't do it again and as it won't happen you don't need any gadgets to prevent it, biggest driver aid is always between your ears, or as we say here "the nut behind the wheel". Benny Hills style now is out of date as lot of it relied on the British tradition of double entendre (irony there with the name to British tradition) and what is now considered un-pc stuff but those were the times and just about all others did the same, I'm sure Benny Hill was clever enough to adapt his style if required, from the very little I know of him he was a bit of an English eccentric, the women that appeared on screen with him regularly seem to hold him in high regard.

Hi, welcome. @Breezy_Pete would probably be able to help you, he may be along from this contact. Good luck.