nta16

ETA: this is is the 'Handy Topics & Guides' forum. You might be better asking this in the General maintenance or Kamiq 2023 forums. Carlston would probably know or access the information. HTH.

As Scotty Kilmer would say, it's just a beauty cover. It might have some very minor effect as a sound and heat insulator. If you wanted you could possibly refit it with a hinge arrangement to give the access you have gained without it on. Give your tyre size, final drive/axle ratio and gear ratios and I've a formula given to me by someone else that could work out the rev drop in the gears from whatever revs, I'm sure Thefeliciahacker could also look at some formulas or tables or calculate it too.

As a generality modern incandescent bulbs are poor quality, don't bulb a cheap unbranded, if you can find a two or three times life bulb made by a good brand from a reputable source get those. Even if a bulb doesn't 'blow' it can go silver or black and an MoT tester can take that as failed. You might find the following post useful for fitting new part and new bulb if required. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/439342-what-bulbs-for-fabia-mkiii/?do=findComment&comment=4949892 Off subject, might have put this before but I can't remember, up to you what you see on the dot screen between speedo and rev counter but I find it very useful to have the oil temperature available, by rolling the wheel thingy on the steering from selecting its display from the infotainment menu. This is because the coolant temperature guage is biased to show a rock steady 90c whether it is at 90c or not, a better way to tell if the engine and oil are fully warmed up is to see the oil temperate. For the engine oil to keep the engine healthy(ier) you want to see 90c of engine oil temperature. Book has IIRC 80-110c is fine for readings but you want 90c, if you do a lot of short journeys and you don't see 90c then you'll want to change the engine oil % filter sooner rather than later. On other than short journeys my wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI 90 shows about 95c normally, never checked on a longer motorway journey though.

With the amber triangle of doom IIRC(?) you should also have something on your infotainment screen, push the car button and go to a screen/menu there, a message and illustration of what is, or might be on false/internment alarms, never ignore them but never fully trust the computers with these messages always do physical checks yourself.

That'll be a bit of a PITA to do, fun with plastics but not the end of the world. I would cover it to stop the water getting in, and or electric grease the bulb connection if it's a plug in bulb (I've no idea I've never looked). I'm pretty sure I'd have put the following before but in case not or as a reminder - If you don't have the printed paper copy then you can get a free VWSkoda pdf copy to download from this VWSkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some useful videos on Fabia Mk3 here. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5

@Ghostrider81 hi, welcome. This and lots more useful information will be in your Owner's Manual, read it for this and to learn lots more about your car and to help save you time, hassle and money including possibly unnecessary garage visits. If you don't have the printed paper copy then you can get a free VWSkoda pdf copy to download from this VWSkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some useful videos on Fabia Mk3 here. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 From my wife's 2015 Owner's Manual (not as eloquent as rum4mo). -

What he says from 3:00 to 3:52 would probably be more relevant on a quickshift, I doubt any shift for a car like a Felica would have the quickshift extremes of a MX-5 or that Porsche unless the Felica was used for motorsport or some youngster has the seat set so low. From your Monday post on (I've not read further back) you were the only one advocating changing to a quickshift, if you have changed your mind then that is fine and good.

Gloop and debris collect in various places or areas for various reasons. The wider the opening the less that might collect at that point. It may be that the stuff that was in your system went to your previous expansion tank and there is no more in the system, unless more is being produced, I have no idea. You would need analysts of what was in your previous expansion tank to know perhaps what it is or its origin, otherwise it's just (educated or not) guessing with a photo on the internet isn't it. You live in a warmer weather country where you drive in stop, start city traffic and gun the car up mountains so I think an occasional clean and/or thorough flushing in addition to whatever coolant changes is a good idea. If or how often you do these is up to you. The thermostat helps to control the temperature but once it is fully open it can do no more to control higher temperatures, then you have fan(s) at different levels. Once you are at or pass optimum temperature you want to prevent or restrictive the temperature getting higher as much as is practically possible, prevention being better than cure and a thoroughly clean cooling/heating system helps with this (subject to all being in reasonable good condition).

I should have guessed. 🙂 Is it not removing a drain plug and a separating a hose, to do the radiator you are taking a hose or two off, two hoses for heater if this isn't possible then just do the whole system as a whole. What solutions can you expect others to give you. If you live in a property above ground level and the car is close you could buy a water hose put it on a tap in your property and run it out of a window to your car, or use the height for gravity feed - there are loads of things you could do how practical or sensible they are to do is a different matter, like working on the car on a restrictive busy street. I wouldn't do ANY work on the car in those circumstances.

Sorry that didn't impress me, good that the chap knew his car and what to do to improve the gear change by a bit of revs matching but even with the fresh different oil the gearbox was a nightmare. Such a waste of that car being on those wide and ultra wide roads. Wearing sandals depending on the sole should make things easier, on the video he looked like he had (like me) wide feet and no disrespect to the chap but he wasn't a young slim Italian (with shorter legs and perhaps smaller and narrower feet). Best click type sound and feel to getting into gear on gear lever I have experienced was in my neighbour's 28k-miles (48,000 km) Kia Picanto, best gear lever changes and feel was on the Mk1 and Mk2 MX-5s. The clutch and its set up can make a big difference to the efficiency and enjoyment, or not, of the gear changes and feel.

No three, the engine block is also important. Best way is to use a commercially available coolant (heating) system cleaner on the whole system. I assume you have a thermostat bypass. There are plenty of alternative products. After you could flush water through the system as a whole or separate out the radiator, matrix and engine block to more thoroughly flush through as you want. You can decide when you see what comes out with the cleaning process how much is needed or wanted.

Obviously I can't help with this but I've just seen another post that might be of interest and use to you, perhaps in the future. I've no connection, don't even know the company other than seeing them on here. - Have you ever thought about Excess Protection Insurance? - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523709-have-you-ever-thought-about-excess-protection-insurance Bear in mind I have no idea of your excesses, depending on circumstances and that policy's cost you could look at higher levels of car insurance excess (below £1k) to lower the car insurance premium.

If you wanted you could go even shorter by using a different gear lever knob. There where DIY solutions for quick shift lever on the Ford Type 9 gearbox that cost pennies and IIRC very little simple work.

I'm not a chemist or metal ologist, material ologist or wotever, it's not something I would try when there are inexpensive products designed to do the cleaning already available.

Please don't the car already has enough creaks, rattles and thumps, and intermittent to add to the 'joy'. Perhaps they're from was my suggestions to try it on brake pads and discs, whoops. Yes you could try some contact cleaner at the pivot points and if that don't work move on to GT85, even if it does work after you could give the GT85 a quick shake and spray as a longer lasting lubricant. Thanks for the photo say going into the dark hole of the footwell looking at black plastic against dark carpet on my knees. Most service and maintenance and many repairs boil down to clean or clean and lubricate, even the very sexy and macho scan tools deleting error codes is electronic cleaning or the old favourite "switch it off 'n' on agen". This weekend I went to lock my neighbour's porch pvc door but the 5 point lever would go even with the door open out of the frame so as I knew he had a can of GT85 because I gave it to him a quick shake and spray and the GT85 and all was fine door locked with ease. That'd be a £130 job down that there Lundun plus call-out fee. 😄

Yeap Vauxhall was RHD Opel part of GM, the company that the American government bailed out then later things got even worse ending in Stellantis. America isn't the only place that you can get your information from. Quickshift, short shift, these are about motor sports, what's good for motor sports might not be so good on a road use car or even not good at all. Shortening the existing gear lever at least keeps standard parts that you know fit and work, whether this or different parts actually achieve what you want is a different matter. I've had shorter levers in two of my cars, one I just cut the length down in situ, didn't even need to thread it, it gave me the effect I wanted more elbow and knuckles room. Below cheap quickshift lever being offered up for my mate to cut down and thread at his work during hie lunch break.

Either gravity feed tank on the roof of you car, you can squeeze off the supply hose and release it as a tap or the help of a glamorous assistant, or pump /syphon, it can be done. Doesn't mean it isn't awkward but all working at the side of a busy road is to be avoided where possible. Best to stick with one type of coolant and make and model of coolant if possible and avoid any additives if possible, who knows what will mix in well with what.

ETA: One of my theories is that the thin aerosol lubricant spray can/may wash out debris but that doesn't mean you have to use a lot of the spray, shake the can, quick spray both sides of the pedal pivot, leave to soak in for a minute or two, work the pedal up and down by hand, if creak has gone great if not another quick spray, soak and work in. You may need more to get the old spray grease out, an old tooth brush bristles might be enough, I don't know I've never looked at the pedal.

I checked only earlier this year with WD-40 Company (the invasive Yank corporation that owns the former British company that was GT85) and on second try they replied that it hadn't been tested for such unlike WD-40 Multi-Use but a couple people I know that have tried it have said it's been fine, I'm not sure I've ever used it on electrics because I still have Servisol Super 10 switch cleaner and lubricant but I probably have and would without worrying about it but I'm just some bloke off the internet. If you use it and it buggers up the pedal and you crash and die do let me know and I'll be more cautious about its use. Always remember to shake the can first (the instructions are on the label).

What about G12evo that took over from G13 (G12evo is the latest VW engineering specification, specified by the engineers, taking over from their previous changing specifications.) 😁

The SOC charge is said to be 80% or 70% but I've not seen any original information on this, the12.4v mostly refers to AGM batteries but the VW start/stop system isn't really designed for battery life longevity it's about "look we're trying to save fuel and deduce emissions". That's why they have to change the battery at 5 years but the more modern cars can't make it that far even. I might be wrong as my memory isn't brilliant but IIRC later Owner's Manuals have charge at 12.3V. I'd not take 12.47v as fully charged, it may be sufficient charge but it's not fully charged and I'd not want to see 12v when car is rested, I've no qualms about filling the said 20% or 30%. But don't misunderstand me, I don't frequently check the battery state of charge (at the posts, car unlocked for about 20 minutes) and don't worry about it. The replacement AGM battery has needed charging more than I expected but it's not much more than a few a year, I don't know if or how much more frequently it'd have been needed if I'd stuck to an EFB battery because my wife's car doesn't have the extra insulation said to be required for an AGM battery so may not be as efficient as it could be, but we're all surviving with the occasional help of the low cost Ring charger maintainer. Don't get too hook on on this, just do some routine checks or when there's a period of greater use or much hotter or colder weather. Ultimate Speed I think I've seen are in/from Lidl/Aldi and I've known neighbours and others buy cheap battery charger maintainers from them and they have been good, that tool would be just for diagnostics checking for me, once in a decade or so (or more) use on my car but if it gives you accurate reassurance then it deserves the glovebox space. I don't like too much storage space as then it tends to get filled with stuff just because the space is available, my last car didn't even have a glovebox. 🙂 If your Bluetooth thing is just a generic code reader and not VW specific then it'll possibly only pick up generic OBD error codes, again nothing to lose sleep over but worth doing if you can.

You can use gravity. or some sort of pump or syphon, the matrix won't hold that much, have double it's volume available and repeat as required.

Miata is the American name, at home it's called the Eunos and in UK MX-5. Yeap, you alter the point of wotsit (fulcrum?) pretty standard stuff, either kit adaptation or as you have shown replaced lever. MX-5 / Eunos (Miata) is the biggest selling sportcar ever so has lots of aftermarket support and tuning and cosmetics items for sale. Was going to suggest you don't rely on America for your info but I changed my mind.

Do the easy stuff first, clean and lubricate, my choice is GT85 as it's a penetrant, longer lasting lubricant, smells nice and not thick and greasy as er, grease which can hold debris and perhaps cause a creak. 😁 If you want to hold a steady 60 mph the cruise control (if fitted) will be better (steadier) at that and give a little bit more mpg (not that I ever use it as I don't like it and don't worry too much about mpg as one or two people travelling in a heavy car). https://gt85.co.uk/ HTH.

If your gearbox and clutch are not up to quick shifts the short shift will just save a bit of cabin space, you could do the same for this effect just by cutting the gear lever down, and if required rethreading the top, for the gear knob to sit lower in the car.