nta16

As well as Kenlowe you could look at the Revotec fans and fixings but they are expensive and the switch relays, when I had them at least, not as good as they should be but you could buy the fan and make your own fixing and wiring, or use what's on the car perhaps(?). T here used to be people that worked there that you could actually talk to over the phone (or at shows) about 5 years ago but I've no idea now.

Red too, well done on keeping the colour.

For electric driven (and switched) fans for other "classics" some have just bought from scrapyards (and/with shrouds perhaps) off other makes and model of cars and had lots of luck with fit and years of reliable service (I would never had such good luck, I didn't not even with some brand new expensive systems and parts). There are many aftermarket fans and kits available that can be attached to the radiator, if you have the room a fan that sucks the air through (rather than blows through) is more efficient. You can also have variable switching so you set when it activates and override switch to switch it on when you want (this always seems like having a dog and barking yourself to me). Best thing is to have all the cooling/heating system clean inside and out (engine, radiator & heater matrix) with coolant that is still in good condition and all parts and components clean and working well. Also, again, have you had a look and considered also posting in Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/406-skoda-classic-cars-parts-for-sale/ HTH.

Have you had a look and considered also posting in Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/406-skoda-classic-cars-parts-for-sale/ If the gasket is paper then that's easy, otherwise you could use an appropriate gasket sealant as the gasket, @Thefeliciahacker would be able to advise on both. Good luck.

The start-stop has a list of requirements before it will operate but if yours isn't activating when it normally would then simply recharge ASAP be it a longer drive where you're not using the battery power too much so that the battery can regain or very simple, easy (non) work recharge it with an appropriate battery charger maintainer reading and following the car's Owner's Manual and chargers instructions with as low slow long recharge as possible and get the battery to fully recharged even if it takes more than one go. Do it now before the battery goes down more and you could get much more useful life out of the battery, consider preventative charges too when required or reasonable. The heat of summer helps the battery to self-discharge more, twice as much at 30c ambient than 20c and twice as much between 30c to 40c ambient (like it was a couple of years ago) and of course cold winter weather, so just before or after these types of times, when changing to and from winter tyres if you do that, whatever suits. A battery maintainer if the car sits for many days or a few weeks. Using a battery charger may extended the life of the van battery too, make it a family heirloom for when you've gone to the Bus Lane in the sky. 😁

Yes I do that on my neighbour's 2023 Ren-No! Nissan when I look over my shoulders when reversing whilst also looking in the door mirrors and reversing camera screen, he cannot understand why I don't just rely on the screen! Most useful in that space is engine oil temperature. As I've just put this on another post I'll copy % paste it here.- "Use the coolant gauge as just a gauge, obviously if it shows very high then it's very warm to hot, but the needle is biased to show a rock steady 90c even though the actual temperature could be a bit below and above this and fluctuate between, this is so ordinary drivers don't worry about the variances. Better to have the oil temperature showing in your dash to confirm against the coolant gauge. Have a look in your Owner's Manual for oil temperature range (80-110c IIRC), engine oil is fully warmed at about 90c so you want to be at or above that to have the oil working well, my wife's 1.2 TSI SE runs at about 95c only going much higher when pushed."

Yeah perhaps done correctly to their Dealer level but perhaps not thoroughly as an owner might do it, being the owner and user, professional levels of doing work aren't necessarily the highest levels (or anywhere near sometimes). Sounds like you are lucky to have a good local Dealer, next time if they are still there and you still consider VWSkoda products you might be better buying the car from the local Dealer, just being local can be very handy but if they're also decent why risk elsewhere, there's a lot of low quality in the English car trade. Use the coolant gauge as just a gauge, obviously if it shows very high then it's very warm to hot, but the needle is biased to show a rock steady 90c even though the actual temperature could be a bit below and above this and fluctuate between, this is so ordinary drivers don't worry about the variances. Better to have the oil temperature showing in your dash to confirm against the coolant gauge. Have a look in your Owner's Manual for oil temperature range (80-110c IIRC), engine oil is fully warmed at about 90c so you want to be at or above that to have the oil working well, my wife's 1.2 TSI SE runs at about 95c only going much higher when pushed. What you have in your new formerly clean expansion tank might just be release residue dirt or wotever residue from the previous work done but the selling Dealership but it'd have been better to have got rid of that before fitting the new clean expansion tank and have it full of fresh clean (VW number) coolant, An old diesel might look rough but a newer and petrol with new tank and coolant should look factory fresh (almost perhaps?). Try one long drive with the heater on full cold, no fans going, and then the next same long drive with the heater on full hot and fan going at say '2', check everything reamains cold then hot and engine temps readings and that should satisfy you if all is well. I changed the "lifetime" VW coolant on my wife's 2015 Fabia and it was clean before I started and after I'd finished (no silica tea bag) and it was only a drain and refill (because VW make what should be an easy job with their PITA ways). Good luck.

Totally agree but if the battery is charged, by reading and following the car's Owner's Manual and charger instructions, with an appropriate battery charger maintainer at the point of the start-stop being inactive and not allowed to go even further lower then the battery can be revived and given lots more useful life, Better still give the battery preventative charges when required so that the battery is at a level above where the start/stop becomes unavailable and the battery with give better service and last even longer. Doesn't have to be often and it's certainly not hard work and you keep your hands clean, car maintenance as it all should be (but isn't). By the time you get to poor engine starting you have let the battery get too low, if not from a one-off mistake then possibly from too much use, abuse and neglect.

The sooner you can put it on charge and the lower and longer it's on the charge the more chance of getting it fuller and nearer full, overnight and well into tomorrow perhaps. If you [£TA: missing word] don't - have the chance to get it fully charged in one go then do the same tomorrow. If you can do check the electrolyte ('water') level of each cell (take no notice of any 'magic eye' ball) sometimes you only need peel back the label(s) on the top to expose the screw tops to the cells which also give you a chance to look at the plates in each cell, often it's an end cell that might look iffy, if so you might be better replacing the battery to be sure of less to do with it. As you don't know the history then I'm with you about changing it to be sure and then you can look after the new battery more and better. Good luck, let us know how you get on. It may not cure the horn issue but with engine starting and electrical issues (particularly involving the computers) a fully charged battery can help and a low battery can hinder and prevent proper diagnostics proceeding.

Dennis has covered it. The start/stop has a computer program for the battery so battery details are entered, plus it would help VW monitor build and any battery issues under warranty - there was a one time a Recall, when more likely it'd have been the computer program at fault as VW might not have ben as clever as they thought they were with it but as we all know they could be very clever with using computer programs to fiddle the figures when wanted. 😆 If you've not got start/stop then it might well be worth fully charging the battery with a charger, unless you have used, abused or neglected the battery too much, or a car fault has done so, you could well see more years out of the battery. Up to you of course. Good luck.

Hi, it depends on which type (model name) of infotainment you have fitted to your car, I just went to the first one called Swing with 6 physical buttons (instead of touch screen images of buttons on other models). I'd guess the procedure is the same or very similar on the other models, you can delete all mobile devices if you want. If that doesn't work then it's beyond me. Don't worry about messing anything up just take your time if altering settings and be sure before pressing any conformation. I hope you haven't got any red lights on the dash as you don't want to be angering the gods that are the VW computers or they will make you suffer for your mistake.

Can you confirm which car, 2009 Yeti or 2014 Yeti? Try fully recharging it with an appropriate charger maintainer first, read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. Better lower and slower recharging to full than higher and faster recharging to full. 12v car battery is the most oversold car part many being replaced unnecessarily or prematurely or very prematurely (7 years wouldn't be so good on a 2009 model at least). But if you'd still sooner change the battery then best to get the new battery 'coded' in for the sake of speed and at the same time if possible get a full scan tool report on your car and then have all the error codes deleted. Battery manufacturer date isn't fitting date but you'd hope they'd be fairly close but (nothing is certain with s/h cars or any car from the motor trade).

ETA: in a 2021 car perhaps you are expected to connect a phone - go against the computer at your peril. 😆

Have a look at your Owner's / Instruction Manual for the infotainment and see what it has. Perhaps the previous owner/driver's phone is still logged in, owner/driver or seller/last user ought to deleted the info (same for ****Nav addresses) but people forget, garages, mechanics/technicians can forget or too lazy or not given enough time. VW Skoda Owner's manual link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Below is from my wife's 2015 Instruction Manual. - If this doesn't work you could try a system reset, see if there are any updates or (admitted to) Recalls. Update portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Škoda Recall Campaigns - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns If all fails it could be hardware or software fault/glitch/brain-fart/programming, such is the beauty of modern cars. Many may not know that's it's not against any law not to have a "smart" phone in a car and use it, same as men are allowed to read instructions manuals, if they want to and very clever ones do. 😉 HTH.

“Engine Coolant Flush Cleaner 2 Part for Cooling System Pipes VW Audi Seat Skoda - Requires coolant to be drained and flushed, then run with the cleaning solution, neutralised and drained flushed again.” Were the bits in bold both done, by a Dealer and Dealer’s mechanic/technician(?), regardless it looks like it needs another proper drain, flush and refill with (VW’s ever number changing) coolant to see if things improve. My neighbour's diesel VW Golf had something changed on the coolant system (I forget what) and coolant at least topped up if not changed, and had lost some coolant from the tank so I had a look and from what he told I suggested it might just be an air lock (I've no idea if they were supposed to pressure/vacuum fill that engine) but the coolant in the tank looked dirty and smelt of I don't know what but not nice but apparently it was fine that way, diesels do tend to be ****ty both inside and from the engine, especially those not fully properly serviced and maintained as many aren't, like I suspect my neighbour's based on when I saw his diesel Aldi out and about, largest, densest black cloud I've ever seen come from a car.

If your friend has a scan tool he may have access to information from that that tells him where the diagnostics port is or have a users forum that might tell him. He only really needs to put in the correct type of battery (EFB on your case), the correct Ah (75 Ah, make sure your friend inputs this correctly, unlike a professional auto-electrician we were told about on here) and the new "serial number" (if this is 1111111111 from factory or not it can be changed to one on to 1111111112).. The make of battery means nothing now, if shown on a 2021 car(?) (previously a VW three character code). HTH.

Don't wait until you get any warnings charge it before then with an appropriate battery charger maintainer as preventative measures as required. Read the car's Owner's Manual and the charger's instructions and follow them. The battery can be low even though the engine starts and the lights seem to be bright and before you get any warning lights and messages the computers can be unhappy and causing all sorts of unexpected issues leading to unseen error codes and intermittent (or not) warning lights. By the time the car engine is difficult to start the battery is very low and probably won't fully recover but it can be recovered, when it gets to the point of not starting the engine (other than from leaving some electric item on for a long time by mistake) you may well have used, abused and neglected the battery beyond reasonable recovery. ETA: Immediately thinking of changing the battery because it doesn't start the car is a bit like thinking of changing the car when the fuel tank is empty, the 12v car battery is one of the most oversold car parts, often replaced prematurely or very (very) prematurely.

If you must keep to the latest German or VW dictates then you want VW TL 774-L. VW don't make the stuff so there are plenty of VW TL 774-L stuff about. With a 2022 car you shouldn't need to worry about topping up the coolant.

No of course not, this is Germany with their love of their own numbers and specifications, which they change their minds on and also have to update There was G11, G12, G12+, G12++, then G13 so what would be next - G14, no, G13+ no, . . . G12evo of course!

Don't wear jewellery. 😄

Change them. If you re bothering to change between all-seasons/winter tyres and "summer" tyres then now is the time to go the whole way with winter, "summer" swaps or all-season all year.

AS has been put. Depends where you live, how you drive, how you look after your car and tyres, possibly how low you run the tyre tread and how lucky or not you are. The foam supposedly goes out of date, the tyre inflaters generally can be quite wheezy and possibly overheat or blow a fuse if trying to inflate a tyre from flat and the pressure gauge no always too accurate. If you carry a spare tyre it needs to be kept at the correct pressure for use, many aren't, some in older cars are flat so need inflating at time of need. They carry a spare wheel and tyre in the boot (extra weight) for years then it's not fit for purpose when required. I didn't carry a spare wheel in various cars for over 30 years just a reliable manual foot pump. In 47 years of driving in UK (and some bits of Europe) I've had to use the manual footpump three separate times and doing so got me home easily. On the other side once a tyre was destroyed (bloody lazy lorry drivers) about 7 miles from home and we did have to wait for the Breakdown service. My wife got a puncture in the Fabia but got the car home easily enough (decades of experiences of old cars and what to do) the VWSkoda TPMS system was very tardy in reporting the issue and in this case only of use to someone who doesn't know enough about driving. In the boot she had the tyre inflater and (out-of-date) foam, later she added a manual footpump. I had previously checked the 12v tyre inflater worked, noisy, annoying and slow but it does work (with provisos mentioned. before.

Yes I know, I know the Favorit and MX-5 seating and driving positions, one is a five-seater family hatch the other a two-seater sports, many differences including gear lever length, I've never suggested you have your gear lever too short, my main suggestion to you has always been that I do not a short lever or quickshift/shortshift lever will not give you the results you want. You may be able to make the existing system slicker by replacing or changing and bushes or links. The red hard saddle improved the feel and slickness of the Ford Type 9 lever be it quickshift or standard lever or shortened standard lever - and I'm saying such a thing exists for you (AFAIK it no longer exists for the Ford even). As you know a metal gear knob isn't a great idea when the sun gets on it, but with a tin-top perhaps you notice less. If the photo you put up was a more modern MX-5 the interior it looks horrible to me.

I don't know but it may have an aerial booster/amplifier, perhaps in with the aerial perhaps not. You could ask at the Dealership parts department and if so for it's location to inspect it. I don't know if the infotainment gives signal strength to stations, I forget, but if it does you could monitor that, would a correct level VW scan tool cover this, sorry again I don't know just thoughts.

I wouldn't believe everything you read anywhere, especially if it's on the internet. Put up the court papers and such stuff may be able to verify, otherwise it's just a good story. It's not a case of suing but blame, fine if you accept it, not so good when it's deflect on to others. I suppose whoever does the work could get a second lot of money extending the shortened lever to get it back to the same length as it was before it was shortened. 😆