nta16

I'd put a bet on with myself you'd be interested in the Liqui Moly, German company for German car. I have no idea about the differences (if any) in the two products as I can barely read English let alone German, it may just be just different packaging for different markets but you would have to check with the manufacturer or get the marketing or safety data sheets for each, sometimes suppliers provide them as downloads, and see if or what the difference is. Whichever product you chose follow the manufacturer's instructions unless you contact them and they say you can do differently - you know you can get unwanted results messing with and mixing chemicals.

Often funny but often, not always, very basic, his songs were very good and very clever, he had a Number One hit in the singles chart in the 1970s, Ernie (the fast milkman in the west).

Yes the driver. 😊 Or for those who concentrate more on beating other drivers on the road or race use perhaps - ETA: NOTE - "Not for use with Capacitive Discharge, Multispark systems, Magneto or Flywheel ignition." Lumenition Rev Limiter ERL-V (from around £145 in UK excluding P&P). - Instructions - ERL-V_instructions.pdf

That would require an attitude sadly missing from many that work in the motor trade dealing with the general public. On the other side so many customers only want the cheapest job done, the minimum required not what is better or even better still and perhaps preventative.

There's this place on the site too - Wheels & Tyres For Sale - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/ If you have photos why not just post them, see other adverts in other forum (just seen you put up a photo previously). Good luck,

Those are not the manufacturer's instructions with any I listed. ETA: that I know of as I have only used a couple them, I doubt the others are much different but I have not checked.

No it is not, it is easy decision - don't bother. Stick with the following video it's top quality British humour from the brilliant Chris Morris and Steve Coogan, just one of their brilliant shows.- Day Today — Pool Attendant - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8YfgxF3APY An explanation which you may not follow as it's all British type humour. Chris Morris's radio and TV shows "Jam" are cult status, even in the USA!!!! (but probably not suited to RC Europe) - https://www.comedy.co.uk/tv/the_day_today/quotes/

I expect you could adapt an adapter to fit. Covered also in Wynn's Radiator Flush (and probably others) instructions - "Add to the cooling system via the expansion tank if part of the system circuit (2 hoses: out and return), or directly into the radiator if a single hose overflow tank is fitted." - https://wynns2021.wpengine.com/products/TDS/W56064_TDS_EN.pdf

Do it there and do it thoroughly. These are my notes for the Midget but you can adapt them for your use and car. Procedure: a) clean the whole system with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner or Holts Speedflush b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator, start with engine block drain plug hole c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a really good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [these can be very difficult to fully drain and get all the bits out of, keep turning and shaking to alternately get the residue from the inlet and outlet] flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine. Flushing and reverse-flushing: I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid. You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage. If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay). For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car. For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals. On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it. I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate. For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment. After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill. Different products have different instructions of use. Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/ STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/ Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804 Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/ OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

Don't bother using that just the camera flash as see how well that is.

On the whole it's good news so far ,just keep monitoring the situation to see if this is just more muck surfacing from a previous issue or an ongoing issue that may or may not be of anything to worry about, you could have bits coming out for years and changes of coolant without any issue from the previous issue (that's why you want to get as much out as soon as possible to save this). There's no such thing as a "smart" phone, that's what we call an oxymoron (like Mars Petcare), the things often aren't much cop as phones and the camera screen can't be viewed in daylight or sun. Try taking the photo at night using the flash and camera as close or zoomed in as possible, the dark colour of the coolant against the very light plastic causes contrast issues.

You are making assumptions based on that video, there are zero reasons why a quick shift for a car like yours needs to be stiff, if it is then don't buy it. If you foul up a gear change that is your fault, possible with any gear lever you adjust the way you handle the gear lever as required, the shorter leverage means you need less force to move it(unless resistance has been increased) and as it's moving a shorter distance the change will be faster if you, the gearbox or clutch can't cope with this then there's no point having the quickshift. Do not chase other vehicles on public roads - that how serious accidents can happen, you carry on doing that too much and your mate's prophecy may come true. You've got an ECU and mapping, put the rev limiter at a lower setting if you can't train yourself, if you were concentrating on your driving instead of chasing you'd soon know your mistake and be able to reduce the effects of that mistake. Unless you want or need to save space don't bother with a quickshift or shorter gear lever as it's very doubtful it would do much with your standard gearbox that's 24 years use and abuse - but no doubt you will want to discover this for yourself. You would not like a Felicia set up for faster fast road use, you would moan about the noise, vibration and additional speed up wear on components and parts.

No that's not really the case and those would be generalities but it's such a topic that would wear my typing finger out and yes those generalities you gave are a bit right. If I remember I'll link in some threads about what you need to learn about the car generally but there's loads of info in the Fabia Mk3 forum, tyres, wheels, suspension here too, Carlston has already given you good information and advice. One of the very best tuning things for your car, after timely and regular full whole car servicing, maintenance and repairs, is further driver training and it can be transferred to other similar vehicles for free time and time again, doesn't matter if you're new to driving or been driving for decades. There's lots pf information and poor or disinformation on the internet and errors and omissions (I make plenty of both all the time) so you have to check and cross reference any information you get from any source (including manufacturers and supplier (and especially car salesmen). Handling and road holding has a lot to do with the design, build, make up and composition of the tyre and fit to wheel as to going up a size or two, it also depends on how you want to drive and how able you are at driving. The Fabia Mk3 in standard form is quite a wallowy car anyway. Unless you are unlucky if you look after your tyres, tyre pressures correct, don't go bumping up kerbs, or drop-kerbs too quickly, then you may never get a need to use a spare wheel, but if you carry a spare don't be like many and have it under-inflated or even flat so that the one time you need it in years (or decades) it's not fully, or at all, fit for purpose I easily survived for 30+ years off and on without carrying a spare wheel or kit, just a manual foot pump in the boot (and accurate tyre pressure gauge at home).

Some parts are easier to get and not a lot more (sometimes less) from the Dealership spare parts department.

Diagnostics have been visual and (inaccurate at times) tick sheets for my wife's car at The two different VWSkoda Dealerships over the time. Brakes and tyres are purely visual with some advantageous, to the Dealer, guessing about brake wear and tyre replacement. Yeap, sorry I meant to put I saw that but different presentation, possibly not from Dealership but the national lot and it has data is limited to the service work. I'd still, with my charm, looks and modesty, ask the current VWSkoda Dealers to print me off (A4) paper record of the "Complete record" to see how it compares, as I put ours doesn't record MoTs. The last "Complete record" my wife bothered to get (she can't get out of the Dealership fast enough) was "2020-09-22" (computer date, in English 22-9-2020) so perhaps the computer or computer system or its presentation has changed since then. Regardless no mention of some of the items you and I mentioned, cabin filter is included in air con service, at 3 years in this instance. A scan tool report might show if the misfire is at one cylinder so that swapping out may find if its plug/coil.

Why, it's only worth doing if you need the space for your knuckles and/or elbow, but as always I'm sure you'll go your own way, even if you do shift quicker you'll probably be waiting for box to catch up (and perhaps clutch). I had an almost off/on clutch hydraulics (rally sport) but it made no odds the family saloon Ford type 9 gearbox took it's time still.

You have some history which is good, always needs to be verified from whatever source. Your list isn't the VWSkoda Dealership computer record presentation we get (when my wife remembers to ask) for her 2016. Hers doesn't list MoTs even when the Dealership done the servicing at the same time. It does include "Vehicle data" to confirm VIN (which you may have left out for obvious reasons), "Delivery inspection"' "Workshop remark" ( Recall, obviously only those admitted to by VWSkoda and if appropriate to vehicle) and then their phrases for what little service and maintenance work gets done. - "Flexible oil change service" "Inspection with oil change" (so I expected "Inspection service" may exclude oil change but who knows) "Oil change service" All these are just an engine oil change and look for more work that they can charge for rather than a whole car service. They class some stuff as "Maintenance" and list it as "Additional work carried out" like - "brake fluid service", "spark plug" (singular), (engine) "Air cleaner element" (cabin) "Dust and pollen filter". 11, 323 miles in 5 years! Probably less expensive to have had hire cars for that milage for the previous owner(s), You've not mentioned any servicing or other work since 14 Dec 2022. Below is an old VWSkoda servicing and maintenance schedule (so ignore prices), notice the cambelt I've blocked out (robbing bastards). Priorities are brakes, steering, suspension, (as put before tyres are part of all three), safety electrics (lights, horn, blower perhaps), windows and mirrors (and number plates) see and be seen. Despite passing the annual Mot which is just a test to see that the vehicle meets the minimum statutory requires to one person's (hopefully) trained opinion at (only) one point in time it doesn't mean the vehicle is as good as it could or should be so (if you've not already done so) initially id be giving regular and frequent exercise to items that may not have seen much use at some periods given the very low mileage like horn, wipers and washers, front and rear, turn knobs on steering wheel, switches, blower range, lights. And take the car out for a few blow out runs exercising the steering, brakes, suspension, clutch, engine, gearbox - this I would only do once I knew the car was up to it as I'd have done any missing servicing and maintenance, Personally I'd change the engine air filter every 2 years as the air filter box has to come off to get at the plugs (at 4 years) anyway on my wife's 2015 1.2 (4cylinder) TSI. HTH.

Narh, it's not a VW diesel, it's the petrol engine, VWSkoda reckon 80c-110c IITC in the owners manual for normal range, a better engine oil (not that I'm saying VWSkoda Dealerships use a better oil) will got 125c and 150c for peaks, not that you'd want a road car getting anywhere near that. But you are better at about 90c, assuming the sensors, program and gauge are about accurate and depending where you measure from. The outside temperature on my wife's car can read about 28c when it's been sitting facing the sun at 21c air temperature and takes a while to come down when driven, we assume it's the correct temperature for somewhere near a Germany factory or programmer's home. My wife often asks me to guess what temperature the Fabia gives, I then have to guess how far she might just have driven and what the actual air temperature might be, sometimes the Fabia is about right or even the same. 😄 Same with the amber triangle of doom with the lights, it can be a bit hit and miss, aren't computers marvellous. 😁

You want the 'Full record' from a VWSkoda Dealer to confirm what is on the computer records, check the MoT record to confirm mileage and dates and see any advisories. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history VWSkoda UK robbing bastards done the expensive cambelt change, we got caught for that too £420 IIRC. After I've listened to The Archers and done the washing up I'll look at your service list (always check and confirm any info you get from any source).

Plugs plus air filter (and air filter box and tubes cleaning inside (nothing a Dealership would probably bother with even though it's just a quick wipe with cloth). Three plugs (coils) means they share more of percentage each than four, 33.3 against 25, so if even one is a bit off it's more noticeable. Only on basic generic codes and if it's better than that if you don't keep it fully updated it could give you bad info. The German marques VW included have prided themselves for a good while back with having complex intertwined (and interfering) computer programs. You really need a VW program on you scan tool (code reader will only just about read some codes). My advice to those new to these cars is never to let your car battery get too low in charge and where necessary do preventative charges with an appropriate battery charger maintainer. The battery charge can be too low even though the engine starts straight away and the lights seem bright enough. Before you get the start/stop or battery warnings the battery can already be too low and cause all sorts of unexpected issues and warnings and unseen error codes. By the time you have any issue starting the engine straight away you may well have the battery in a condition that it will not fully recover from. Also read the Owner's Manual and refer to it often as it will tell you a lot you need to know about your car and if you refer to it often it can save you time, hassle and money and visits to garages. If you've not got the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf download from this VWSkoda website. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Update portal for some updates. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Here is the site for the VWSkoda Recalls (well those they admit to anyway). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns I would guess at 15k-miles the battery might have already been changed at least once. A low milage little use car needs in many way more maintenance and servicing and not less as many think. 2017 is at least 7 years so if it's on original tyres whilst they may have a good level of tread depth on them depending on how the car has been kept (outside/garage) and used or not used the tyres may be hard and best changed for new. Tyres are are big part of braking, also steering and suspension, road holding, handing, ride noise and comfort. Then there brake fluid to check if not changed (a couple of times) already. Servicing work should be done by mileage or time interval, if the car has such low mileage it may be from many short journeys where the engine oil doesn't get fully warmed (say 90c on the oil (not coolant) gauge) so actually needs more engine oil & filter changes not less). Finally some vids of use Fabia Mk3 info. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5. HTH.

ETA: I have seen oil in three digits but I was going pretty quick on an empty dual carriageway to give the car a much needed blowout. Quite recently someone put they see 106c but I can't remember if that was in a 1.2 TSI (Fabia).

Yeah that's a bit low, better other side of 90c. I can't remember how long it might take to get to 87 but IIRC getting to 93c in about 6 miles of mainly 40/60 mph roads with weather at about 10c or below from a cold start. In winter we might not get much of a reading just driving the few miles to my wife's work where the engine might then be allowed to go cold for another 8 or 9 hour before the same journey back.

You might not want that on your winter cold starts, it's all compromises.

Yes Really yes. See my post of 3 hours ago (at 14:16 pm).

Unless you have very smooth roads in London 17" wheels with 40(%) profile tyres don't make a lot of sense for practicality, modern fashionable cosmetics may be. just to give you and idea, 215/40r17 tyre has a nominal sidewall height of 3.4" (86mm) whereas 185/60r15 4.4" (112mm) so 1" (26mm) (29%) more rubber and air cushioning from the third world roads of the UK. Even 215/45r16 gives 0.4" (11mm) (12%) more. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/