nta16

Hi, welcome, without further details it would be best you consult the 'Owner's Manual' / 'Operating Instructions' for your model and possibly reapply them via a menu possibly on the Infotainment screen. If you've not got the books you can get free Skoda PDF downloads or digital manuals from this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Well you had a lot of fuel going through helping to cool. 😄 The others will know but I get the feeling I've read on here the/some(?) Fabia doesn't mind E10. For the amount you'll be saving in fuel costs you might want to throw in a couple of tankfuls of the (new) V-Power for its cleaning additive package before and after your blow out run.

Might just be the image, screen and my wonky eyes but the old plug appears salmon colour to me, have you used a fuel additive or cleaner or some special petrol at some point? I've next to no experience of farting about on cars but I've never seen a spark plug as worn as that but I'm from very old cars and changing the plugs every couple of years, or every year for those that can't be bothered to check, gap and clean as required.

You might as well get your money's worth out of that Halfords Advanced tool set. Forgot to put you cold at least test the brake fluid, and test the coolant, I think they still do the dipping paper tabs(?) or stick things(?) or borrow a reliable tester or risk very cheap testers. Despite the mpg the fact the car's been running shows how much they can put up with (which is also a downside if you get the car from someone who's taken too much advantage of this fact) so it gives plenty of potential perhaps to have it running so much better so easily. Get the car serviced and running well and then give it a good blowout run, not driving conservatively, and see how it is.

You are doing a better job than possibly that "full multipoint service". When the weather is a bit better it might pay you to consider doing a full inspection of the car and at least service the engine with oil and filter change and check the air filter. On a 13 year old car personally I would look at cleaning the MAF but I wouldn't use carb cleaner but MAF cleaner for the sake of a few quid extra and not risking and old sensor. If correct OEM parts are cheap enough sometimes they're worth just replacing if old but the quality of the replacement part must be considered otherwise you could be swapping not too bad for bad. Also cleaning the throttle body (or whatever anyone wants to call it) again with the correct throttle body cleaner, again why worry about a few quid if you're already wasting your life farting about with a car. Because of the technology the basics are often forgotten on cars but without the basics attended to there's not fully success with the technology and much of car servicing, maintenance and repairs often boils down to the very basics of cleaning, lubricating - and when required replacing parts.

Assuming the new plugs are the correct type and correctly gapped the change looks very worthwhile to me. Like a lot of parts and components on the car they can continue to operate well beyond their optimum or when they should be reasonably attended to, part of servicing is prevention of taking things too far past this point. As with a lot of warnings the car gives by the time you get them you're well passed the point you want to take action. The computer can keep things going well passed the optimum and into the not so good. You can rely on your own senses (literally) as much as, and sometimes more often, than the car's various systems at 20mpg you know something isn't right. A full service isn't just attending to the basic engine servicing it's attending to the car as a whole but we realise you were referring to the engine servicing which I would have thought with a s/h car new to you would have included at an inspection of the plugs if not change. Don't rely on the car to have push buttons and messages to sort everything. Brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) are much more important than the engine so they are my priority on a car new to me - and a good battery. I'm sure you'll see some improvements from this basic bit of servicing, let us know how you get on.

A lot of drivers don't realise what a complex component the tyre(s) are and their overall contribution to braking, steering, road holding, handling, ride noise and comfort. They also forget the effects of age and driving and parked up conditions and environments. Many, in the UK at least, think as long as the tyre tread is above the bare minimum legal limit that's all that matters.

Just to be sure, (amber) glow plug light? You would hope they have high enough level diagnostics but that doesn't mean that will pinpoint the issue(s) and they don't do repairs as such. You have to look at the home start contract to see what it covers and provides but as has already been put someone plugging in a suitable scan tool. And/or perhaps further information from you to here might get you some more diagnosis but bear in mind the limitations of dealing with such over posts on a thread.

Do I take it you do not live in the UK as the link is not in English. Looks very much like you might need a new battery. That is not good about the current battery or charger but the clamps in the photos look reasonable quality so as long as the negative clamp and wire connection is still sound you can carry on with it and it will be a good reminder to you about batteries and chargers. From the little I can make out the charger is 3 amps which means it will take more time to fully recharge a battery but to me that is a good thing. The link show 26Ah to 90Ah so it should have done your current 65Ah if the battery was fully functioning. Note the "Ambient temperature: 0-40 Celsius" if you are somewhere at -20C. This charger will be fine should you need or want to use it on your new battery, I think you may find lots on the car seems better when the new battery is fitted. Wait and see how things are when you fit the new battery, as you have already found the car battery and its condition and health is very important to the car, always has been but even more so now there are so much electrics and computer stuff on cars. I take it by your battery choice your car is not a start/stop.

How are you calculating this figure, what is a full tank and empty tank to you? Have you changed the plugs, cleaned the MAF, throttle body? Is the car standard, standard wheels, tyres,? Where are you driving, how are you driving?

Your best bet might be to get the use of a higher level scan tool suited to VWs to help with diagnostics whilst at the same time or before look for poor connections or wiring for the electrics and computer. The drop to 7V on cranking didn't sound good for the battery or perhaps main connections or perhaps thin wires to parts, earths. When exactly was the glow plug symbol flashing in the sequence of key in ignition and trying to start?

Just looking up Tayna batteries and I see varooom already has, I wish I could read faster. I note the list shows E44 VARTA SILVER DYNAMIC CAR BATTERY 77AH (577400078) (096) which is 278x175x190, 77Ah, 780 CCA EN [A]. When required and before you get warning lights and messages or battery difficulties you could if required use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to charge the battery which depending on your car and electrical use you might need or want to use at some stage(s) regardless of how big the battery is. For the car's 'Owner's Manual' (if that's what you meant) you can download a free Skoda pdf from this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you read the 'Owner's Manual' and refer to it even for what might seem very simple and obvious things then despite this being your first car you will know more about it than many long term owners and some at Dealerships and garages. First car or had many cars it usually pays not to assume and to ask questions to confirm what you might think you already know (or have forgot more than once if you're old). Good luck.

As varooom has put plus don't get too tied into big numbers, do you have a photo of current and/or proposed batteries or make and model number of proposed battery?

Well you gave it a go, it does take take patience and a lot of time on occasions but you can't always revive a battery that's been too heavily done down. Unless you have another known good battery to try then time for a new battery and perhaps when required charge that up sooner rather than later. Up to you if you prefer to go local and they might do or know someone to 'code' the new battery or lots get their batteries from Tayna - https://www.tayna.co.uk/ ring before 6.45pm and it's normally there the next day. And you can direct message the local guys that may be able to 'code' for you. They can also scan for other codes and delete all that are there and you can then see which or if any return after being deleted and the car driven. You stand more chance of starting a car, or often sorting electrical and computer issues with a good battery fitted. Good luck.

If the 6V reading is accurate then you may need the appropriate battery charger and a lot of time and patience and even then you may not fully recovery the battery for a reasonable service life if you've been having the battery too low for too long. I personally would have a go at recharging as I have a bit of experience with such but others might not bother and replace it with a new battery. Check your Owner's Manual for what's involved with charging the battery, or disconnecting/reconnecting the battery or replacing the battery with a new one. When the car battery gets too low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and warning messages and lights are yet to appear the battery can still be too low for the computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues - then of course the car can be difficult to start when the battery is low. Once you have a battery in reasonable health and good state of charge you can delete any codes and see what returns and what other issues you might have other than too low state of charge battery, if you're lucky you might not have other than the battery. Good luck. ETA: I remember helping to push one of those 911 models because the owner was too tight to pay Porsche to replace the over-priced battery, when his wife found out the car had needed pushing again he was instructed to cough up and shut up, a suggestion he'd declined from those of us pushing the car - at Gaydon, British Motor Museum. :shakehead:

@Jocko btw, I meant to put it'd certainly be worth following up the suggested switch checking it and its connections. If you're lucky it might only need the connections cleaning as required and then protecting, I favour using something like Contralube 77, a sachet goes a long way and tube much further also useful when replacing things like bulbs to lessen warning lights and messages. - PDS-Contralube_770.pdf

I'm not saying with this necessarily but generally keep your car battery from getting into a low state of charge as even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery can get too low to keep the computers happy and they can throw up all sorts of issues even before the warning messages and lights signifying the battery is low. Sometimes just driving the car as you normally do is not enough to fully recharge the battery then an appropriate battery charger and maintainer is best used to fully recharge the car battery. If the battery is low this can take some times but if you can't get it fully recharged in one go then at the next opportunity use the appropriate charger and maintainer again to fully charge the battery. Remember the Owner's Manual is full of useful information and is best consulted even for what usually seem the simplest of driver's use and simple maintenance. If you read it and refer to it then yo will know more about your model than many longer term owners and some at Dealerships and garages. Skoda Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Hopefully another 2019 owner will be along to tell you if it's a common problem, I've not seen it but that means nothing. Good luck.

Thank you, a typo on my part, I'll rectify my error. ETA: I wonder how many VW, VAG markings are on the Climatronic unit and its parts, I've no idea perhaps it's all Skoda and marked up as such and same for its parts, IIRC bits that needed replacing or sorting on my wife's Fabia were marked with VW and VAG.

Fair enough I misunderstood your OP. I thought you might be getting it looked at sooner, good idea to leave it. Best not to fully believe any VW computer readouts without checking, in my experience they can be a bit forward, or backward in reporting and frightened of their own shadow. As you've found by now VW (ETA: and VWSkoda) are not Honda, hopefully your 2009 Fabia is more robust than my wife's 2015 Fabia but I doubt your Fabia will be restricted to one annual garage visit for an annual service, perhaps I'll be wrong and that's all it'll need, but in case not you might want to find a good and reliable indie VW/Skoda garage that can take on usual servicing work and also help with any future distress work that might (or might not) crop up in future. In which case an extra £15 is spread across a number of jobs and possible saving a lot of hassle and giving peace of mind rather than piecemeal visits to various places with initial lower monetary costs. But you can decide the world is your lobster.

Perhaps your short shunt drive/trip buggered the system temporarily and you could save £65 or £80 by driving the car normally and see if the Climatronic gives any more messages or not, "what's that Climatronic, "Sonny's trapped down a well and I need you to fetch the helicopter so we can rescue him right now!"". ETA: end of last century a mate had a newish Jag XJ and if he just moved it a short distance, say out of the garage to the drive to park or wash wash it, sometimes after that it'd not start the engine, IIRC he just disconnected the negative side of the battery waited a couple of minutes, reconnected and the car would start, they didn't like ultra short being shifted.

Good point about not assuming (makes an ass out of u and me) so do I take it that the Climatronic is telling you 318 and - "The Climatronic codes are displayed in hexadecimal. 318 in Hex is 792 in decimal." 00792 = A/C Pressure Switch (F129)". "00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) Possible Symptoms A/C System not working Possible Causes A/C System Malfunctions Over or insufficiently charged Refrigerant System blockage Insufficient Air Flow to Condensor and/or Engine Radiator Wiring to/from A/C Pressure Switch (F129) faulty A/C Pressure Switch (F129) faulty Possible Solutions Check A/C System for Malfunctions Check Wiring to/from A/C Pressure Switch (F129) Check A/C Pressure Switch (F129) Special Notes In some applications, the F129 will be refereed to as the High Pressure Sensor (G65) in the factory wiring diagram." http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00792

I've just tried on my wife's Mk3 Fabia, unlocked the driver's door with the key blade, alarms goes off as soon as I open the door so key blade in ignition switch and turned on (just for luck) asap to kill the bloody alarm. I opened the rear door from inside (child lock is always off), moved rear seat back forward and knocked the hat shelf up ready to remove it, easy access without crawling all over the car. A couple of minutes of very easy work (except for the annoying alarm).

I was going to check on my wife's Mk3 for you but looking out of the window I see the boot doesn't have an external key lock. 😄 Like the very best here I also make mistakes. Is your boot also missing the external key lock?

Hi, Welcome. If you've got a starting or electrical issue you want to be sure your battery is reasonable health and in a good state of charge as a battery in a low state of charge could hinder diagnostics, progress and even resolution whereas a fully charged battery might help. A fully charged battery will show around 12.7V after a rest. What OBD2 reader are you using, is it a cheap generic code reader (only) or a higher level scan tool with VW facility? What's the service history of the car and recent servicing or work done on the car? Any new parts fitted?

Right, in that case it might be a software, mechanical or electric/computer, such is the joy of modern cars. Intermittent is the pain of course but an interrogation with a high level scan tool might help especially if any history of fault is logged, otherwise it needs to be plugged in at time of fault but you shouldn't leave anything plugged into the diagnostics port for more than perhaps road tests. I'll report your post to ask for the thread to be moved to the Fabia Mk3 section as this is the Mk2 section. You can add Monte Carlo 2019 and other stuff to your nameplate if you want.